Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'valves'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Hot Tubs & Spas
    • Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
    • Inflatable Hot Tubs
  • Inground, Fiberglass and Aboveground Swimming Pools
    • All Swimming Pools Types
  • Swim Spas & Exercise Pools
    • Swim Spas & Exercise Pools
  • Pool/Spa Water Care
  • Swim Spas & Exercise Pools
  • Pool/Spa Water Care
    • Hot Tub Water Chemistry
    • Swimming Pool Water Chemistry

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Location


Interests

Found 2 results

  1. We had our fiberglass in ground pool installed 2 1/2 years ago. All of the pool equipment is Hayward. It originally had a 1 hp pump to feed 3 water features for the pool. 3 Returns, 2 Deck Jets, and 3 Bubblers inside the Tanning Ledge that waterfalls into the main pool. We mainly have the Bubblers wide open to fill the Tanning Ledge and spill over into the pool and the Returns opened to direct the water flow towards the Skimmer. Our issue has been, whenever we opened the Returns valve slightly, it would starve the water reaching the Bubblers valve and reduce the water going into the Tanning Ledge. Not a problem, right? So, when our 2 year warranty was up on the pump, I bought a 1 1/2 hp pump. That boosted my overall pressure by about 7 lbs. So, I thought I had plenty of pressure to open all of the feature valves and be ok. When I did, all that happened was the Returns were flowing into the pool lile a bat out of hell, and the Deck Jets and Bubblers were stared for water again. And I might of lost 1 lbs of overall pressure, at the most. So here is my thought and asking for confirmation and better plumbing design to equalize the pressure across the return valves. I THINK that having the return plumbing line closest to the Returns valve, the water takes the least path of resistance and stares the other 2 valves. If I completely rebuild how the return plumbing feeds the 3 valves, would that resolve my issue? Thank you in advance for your input.
  2. Hi all, New to this forum and would like to ask for some help if possible. I just purchased a new home and it already had an inground concrete pool. I have had pools before and I can not seem to determine the correct valve placement on this setup. I need to figure out what is the bottom drain valve and top skimmer valve so when I vacume I can close the bottom drain. I already know how to bipass the heater. My configuration is shown below. Hard to get a clear picture but for some reason they have a shutoff valve going into the pump as well. And they have one valve marked as bipass which I thought would have been one of the drains but now I am not sure. Any help would be great as I have already left messages for the pool company to call me
×
×
  • Create New...