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Found 9 results

  1. My Coast Spa is nothing but trouble. Today's issue is that the system is reporting that the Heater is Too Hot. But the system has been in rest mode and low temperature and the water is cold. The B sensor was reporting hot so I replaced that sensor. After which both sensors seem nominal and in sync. Shortly thereafter the A sensor reports hot. Then the B sensor reports hot. So neither stable nor in sync. I have unplugged the sensors and rebooted. But the system is rebooting to a Heater Too Hot status. I suspect now a logic board issue (which would be my 4th board in 6 years). Thoughts or suggestions? And now it will not poser up even to the Heater Too Hot status. Instead, all LEDs blink.
  2. I have an arctic spa with an inaccurate temp level on the screen. When it is set at 104 it only gets to 90ish. I purchased a new regulation probe and have been sticking it in the top of the tub. Same issue. If I pull it outside the heater kicks on and I can get the tub very hot...111. Currently the tub is at 100deg set at 104 (not heating anymore) and the display reads 107 degrees. I am checking true temp with a quality meat thermometer. Any suggestions?
  3. I have a 2009 Caldera Cumberland spa, and I'm wondering if anyone knows whether the pictured wires go to the temperature sensors. What is your confidence level? Is there any way to know for sure?
  4. I have a second hand hot tub that I received as a gift and we got it running a couple months ago. We have had some issues lately. It was running fine for about a month until the control panel began showing only a blinking “ready” and blinking “power.” The jets and light work fine but the temperature began to drop and after some research I assumed it must be the temp sensor. My boyfriend replaced that for me yesterday and at the time the water was warm, but not hot. After 24 hours it is starting to drop in temperature and isn’t nearly as warm. Now the screen is just blinking “ready.” I tried turning the power off at the breaker and turning it back on and it starts up fine and screen looks normal but then after about 10 seconds something clicks and the screen just goes back to blinking “ready.” It’s in the 30’s here in NH and expecting snow soon, so hoping to fix it before conditions get worse! But not sure what else it could be! Water level is over the jets... is there something else we can do? Maybe an issue with the part replacement? Thanks in advance for any advice or help!!
  5. I have a 2003 Sundance Marin 850 tub, and I can''t seem to figure out what is going on with the temperature sensor that sits within the filter area. The tub will work as expected for several hours, and then go into watchdog mode with the 4 dashes. When I look at the log data, everything is normal except the temperature sensor high was at 125F, even though I know the water was nowhere near that temp. I put in a new temperature sensor, and the exact same thing happens, even when the water is only at 85F. Just to be clear, this is the temperature sensor that sits next to the filter, and not the high temp limit sensor within the heater. the high limit temp data is normal. I noticed that the wires were resting on the circulation pump, so I thought maybe the heat/magnetic field might be causing the sensor to misread, but even after making sure its far away from all pumps, its still having the problem. other info- the board was replaced at some point, at least 5-7 years ago, though I'm not sure exactly when since it was before I owned it. All the capacitors look good, as in I didn't notice any swelling or leakage. any ideas on how to troubleshoot? I'm hoping I don't need to buy and install a new board, but thats all I can think of.
  6. Last night the water temperature sensor broke on my Pentair intelliTouch equipment. The spa temperature was really about 60 degrees but the temp would jump to 109, 77, 104, 90... I had a group of people over and really needed to get the spa to heat. The problem was that every time the temp sensor sent a value > 104 the heater would shut off. I ordered a new temp sensor on Amazon for $25, but wanted to get the spa to heat just one more time. After watching the youTube video on how to replace the temp sensor, it occurred to me that if just swapped the air temp and water temp inputs then the air temp (a constant 65 degrees) would always report a low value and the heater would stay on. So I opened up the control panel, removed the two screws holding the top section in place, folded down the top panel, and used a small screwdriver to loosen the connectors on the right side, holding both the water an air temp sensor wires. After swapping the two sensor inputs I closed up the panel and the heater worked. Of course I then needed to reduce the max temp setting on the heater to 102 since otherwise it would have heated to 104. After figuring this out I also found other blog posts suggesting the same quick fix, but none had originally come up on my search and none had enough details to help my feeble brain figure this out quickly, so I figured I would re-post a detailed description and more tags...
  7. I inherited a 1997 Beachcomber Model 550 that is not heating but I wish it did. Here' what I know: -the motor is running normally and the pump is working fine, both are brand new -there are no error codes on the topside controller but the red heating status light does not come on -when powered up the actual temperature reading is 54F now. Was 56F yesterday which I'm assuming means the water temperature sensor is working -the temperature setting on the controller is set at 100F. I am able to raise and lower this setting but nothing changes in terms of operation -heater element resistance is 15 ohms but no 240v at terminals -the heater relay on the circuit board shows 253 ohms but is not closing which explains no 240v at heater element terminals. Manually closing the relay gives 240v at the heater element. Having trouble testing for 120v at relay, not sure how to do this. -with the power off, pressure switch is open. Not able to confirm if the pressure switch is closing when powered up, not sure how to do this either. -removing the pressure switch/high temp sensor connector (4 pin combined connector) from the circuit board before powerup causes a Sn fault -checked the high temperature sensor for continuity, not showing any resistance. I understand Ohms should vary with temperature, ie. higher when colder and my guess this is the cause of the problem. -circuit board looks ok, ie. nothing burnt, no cracks, continuity in several circuits I checked.. Any insight is appreciated not to mention some advice as to where a guy can find parts for older Beachcomber hot tubs. Thank you.
  8. New to forum: hope you can help. I have a Sundance Capri spa and have enjoyed it for years. It has been bitter cold in the Northeast. Went out to check on the spa, water was cold and was giving me alternating ICE and FLO indicators along with a temperature reading around 60. I changed the filters and determined that I needed a new flow valve...so I replaced it. Both pumps seem to be operating properly now, but I am still getting a FLO error message...and have done all the things I have read on line to remedy that situation to no avail. The panel does not show that the heater is active....although the temperature of the spa has been slowly rising...it's now at 75 and it is only 15 outside...so, something is heating the water. The pumps do not feel unusually hot to the touch. I went ahead an ordered a new temperature sensor since it seems that for $26 it was another thing to check off the list. Can anyone provide any additional guidance regarding the failure to get the spa heating properly and also about the FLO error message? Thanks. David K
  9. I have a (not sure which year, late 90s prob) Hawkeye Dream Series. It used to have a temperature offset of about 10 degrees F. Now the temperature is completely off registering at 63 F constantly. The hot tub will continue to heat until the High Level Probe makes it cut off. Since it does register that it is too hot @ about 110-120, I'm pretty sure it's the Temperature Sensor which is broken, which has a part number of 9920-400125. I'm ready to order this part, but I'm not sure how it is attached. Advice from anyone who has experience with these or ideas would be much appreciated. I did find the part at http://www.hottubwarehouse.com/Gecko-Temperature-Sensor-9920-400125-p/9920-400125.htm And from what that picture shows, it has the same connector as mine. I'm fairly certain that the sensor is secured between the two lights but I'm not sure what the process is for replacing it. Any advice, questions, etc. is much appreciated.
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