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Found 8 results

  1. My J385 is stuck in watch dog mode. No noise nothing. I tested the temp sensor and Hi Lo sensor and they both seemed bad. I have replaced both and still nothing. If i disconnect the (J6) sensor plug from the circuit board and power up i get the relevant set of error codes as though all the sensors are missing. Tested the new sensors and they seem fine, i must be missing something. Rest of the circuit board seems fine, no bulging caps, no burnt out components. Any help greatly appreciated, may also be worth mentioning the flo sensor was replaced a few months ago.
  2. I have a 2003 Sundance Marin 850 tub, and I can''t seem to figure out what is going on with the temperature sensor that sits within the filter area. The tub will work as expected for several hours, and then go into watchdog mode with the 4 dashes. When I look at the log data, everything is normal except the temperature sensor high was at 125F, even though I know the water was nowhere near that temp. I put in a new temperature sensor, and the exact same thing happens, even when the water is only at 85F. Just to be clear, this is the temperature sensor that sits next to the filter, and not the high temp limit sensor within the heater. the high limit temp data is normal. I noticed that the wires were resting on the circulation pump, so I thought maybe the heat/magnetic field might be causing the sensor to misread, but even after making sure its far away from all pumps, its still having the problem. other info- the board was replaced at some point, at least 5-7 years ago, though I'm not sure exactly when since it was before I owned it. All the capacitors look good, as in I didn't notice any swelling or leakage. any ideas on how to troubleshoot? I'm hoping I don't need to buy and install a new board, but thats all I can think of.
  3. Hi there, I'm new to this sight and after reading some older posts, still couldn't found a solution to my problem. my Jacuzzi j375 is intermittently going into "ice" mode. when this happens both pumps are on full and its protecting itself like it should, only problem is the tub is at 103. the display toggles back and forth between "ice" and "103". I was working on the two speed pump yesterday replacing a start up capacitor and after that it started. it's very intermittent though. We were getting in yesterday when i noticed the pumps were already on and i saw the "ice" flashing, but after about 10 minutes of use i noticed it was back to normal display, and i hadn't done anything. Today it did it again. I was sitting inside and heard the pumps fire up. I had to reset the breaker to make it stop. I have previously (2 weeks ago) had it staying at 98 when set at 103, and breaker reset "fixed" that. 🙄 Now i'm wondering if both are related and I have an intermittent faulty temp sensor. i had to move aside the harness to the temp sensor to access my capacitor yesterday but never to a point of pulling on it or anything. Any help would be appreciated, Thx
  4. Last night the water temperature sensor broke on my Pentair intelliTouch equipment. The spa temperature was really about 60 degrees but the temp would jump to 109, 77, 104, 90... I had a group of people over and really needed to get the spa to heat. The problem was that every time the temp sensor sent a value > 104 the heater would shut off. I ordered a new temp sensor on Amazon for $25, but wanted to get the spa to heat just one more time. After watching the youTube video on how to replace the temp sensor, it occurred to me that if just swapped the air temp and water temp inputs then the air temp (a constant 65 degrees) would always report a low value and the heater would stay on. So I opened up the control panel, removed the two screws holding the top section in place, folded down the top panel, and used a small screwdriver to loosen the connectors on the right side, holding both the water an air temp sensor wires. After swapping the two sensor inputs I closed up the panel and the heater worked. Of course I then needed to reduce the max temp setting on the heater to 102 since otherwise it would have heated to 104. After figuring this out I also found other blog posts suggesting the same quick fix, but none had originally come up on my search and none had enough details to help my feeble brain figure this out quickly, so I figured I would re-post a detailed description and more tags...
  5. Hello, I have a Hot Springs, Hot Spot, Trinidad, 2005 model hot tub. I just replaced the jet pump on it as it was rusted out. The pump works perfectly now on both speeds, the lights work, and the heater is jamming out at 111 degrees, even though the default 102 is what it should be stopping at. I replaced the filter as well. The problem is the display will read like 85 degrees but in measuring the water with an outside probe it reads 111 degrees, and I get 3 blinking lights on the display panel. The heater is obviously working, so I thought maybe it was a faulty temp sensor. The part number is here: http://www.backyardplus.com/proddetail.php?prod=71578 I tested the water at 106 degrees and the resistance on the temp sensor was 5.4K, at 105 degrees it was 5.6K and at 104 degrees it was 5.8K. I have a couple of different charts that shows what the temp/resistance values should be. That is close to a 10K thermistor chart, but how far or close off will show that the sensor is bad? From the chart they should only be about 100 ohms different for each degree. From a price stand point I was hoping it was a bad sensor. Any ideas on what this problem is please? Thanks in advance if you can help!
  6. My 2002 Sundance Optima 850 died in the winter of 2015 after 13 years of operation. The water was cold and the display showed OH (over heat). When I started troubleshooting, everything looked correct and the water started heating. Then after a short time the temperature started rising quickly. I noticed the circulation pump wasn’t running but the heater was on. This made me think the circulation pump ($200) might be bad. As an electrical engineer I tried to get some schematics of the controller so I could determine the exact cause. If the pump wasn’t running it could be a bad pump or it could be the controller wasn’t telling it to run. Unfortunately schematics are not available. Due to the high cost of parts, shot-gunning the problem can be very expensive. I decided to write this post to explain what I did so it might be of use to other people. Looking online I saw several suggestions. Capacitor failure (<$20 for the parts) – It is possible for capacitors to fail but this is not very common. The DC voltages on the PCB are < 17 volts and the capacitors are rated at 25V. If a capacitor fails it can load down a power supply or cause ripple (AC voltage) which could affect the circuit operation in strange ways. Typically you should design with more margin but technically these parts will work. I looked at the caps and didn’t see any signs of swelling. I also checked the power supply for signs of AC ripple but there was none. Changing caps on the PCB is not as simple as it looks. The board needs to be heated so both leads can be removed at the same time and this is difficult with a soldering iron. In the process of changing the parts you can easily damage other parts. I wouldn’t recommend changing caps unless you actually had a problem that was visible. Bad temperature sensor ($30) – Several blog postings said the most common cause of OH or ---- was the temperature sensor. This part is a thermistor, a resistive element with a negative temperature coefficient. As the heat rises the resistance drops. Online I found a table listing the temperature characteristics of the thermistors used in this spa. These are 30K ohm at 25 degC. When I unplugged the sensor connector and measured the temperature sensor it read 27K and the water was around 27 degC so it looked fine. Bad Hi-Limit sensor ($30) – I checked the hi-limit sensor in the same way as the temperature sensor and it also was around 27 degC. The sensors seemed to be fine. Bad controller board ($350 – 650) – Since controller boards are expensive I really didn’t want to buy one until I knew it was bad. The controller has a microprocessor as the brains of the system. To fully understand how the system works you would need to have a schematic for the board and some information on the firmware (software for the microprocessor). I traced the circuit and discovered how the relays were wired. The board uses two driver chips to control the 12 relays. During various phases of troubleshooting I had seen cases where the heater was on and the circulation pump was off. This of course causes an overheat situation. It could be caused by a bad pump, bad relay, bad driver chip or the microprocessor not telling the relay to activate. By running the system and measuring the 5V inputs to the driver chips I discovered the board seemed to be working correctly. At this point the system started displaying --- which means it has shut down due to some problem. I was about to spring for a used controller board ($350) when I read a post that said the factory never changes the board without using a tester to simulate the sensors first. What a good idea. For the Optima 850 LDC controller I built the following test circuit http://www.pdf-archive.com/2016/06/25/optima-850-lcd-sensor-tester/ . Parts are available at places like www.jameco.com or www.digikey.com . I used a 14 pin IDC connector with a flat ribbon cable so I didn’t have to deal with crimp pins. The resistor are just 1/4W 5% parts, nothing special is required. I put the circuit in a small plastic box so I could label the switches and protect everything from touching any other electrical connections. http://www.pdf-archive.com/2016/06/26/optima-850-lcd-test-box (The controller logic runs off low voltage DC but there is 240VAC on the board for input to the power transformer and at several of the relays, so be very careful. It’s not obvious which circuit connections are high voltage.) Design of the test box allowed me to test the flow sensor and both temperature sensors. The controller requires No Flow on the flow sensor when the system powers up or it will shut down. With the flow sensor switch open, turn on the power. Close the flow sensor to simulate the circulation pump operating. Since the lowest temperature you can set on the heater is 80 degF, the design allows you to simulate heating and non-heating conditions. With this I checked the operation of the heater to verify it turned on and off properly. The hi-limit switch allows checking of overheating condition. After testing each sensor it appeared everything was working properly. When I reconnected the actual senor connector the system went back to its previous state and would not turn on. It simply displayed ----. Even though I couldn’t see anything wrong with the sensors when I measured the resistance, I decided to buy new sensors since they were cheaper than replacing the controller board. When the two sensors arrived, I replaced the temperature sensor first since it’s the easiest. The spa is now working again. Apparently there was some intermittent on the sensor that I couldn’t see. Not knowing the exact logic running the controller didn’t allow me to troubleshoot any further before taking a guess at the problem. I now have a spare hi-limit sensor in case that fails in the future. Thermistors aren’t under any stress so I don’t expect a problem; in fact I don’t know exactly what was wrong with the one I changed. The bottom line, the most common cause of this problem turned out to be exactly what several people had stated and fortunately it was one of the least expensive solutions. It's now been three weeks and the spa is working fine. PROBLEM SOLVED!
  7. Need to replace temp sensors. How do I tell what kind I have? I have an easy touch pentair system and the sensor wires are black and red. Thanks,
  8. I have a Sedona Spa that uses a Maddox P2MC-N38 controller. recently the digital spa-side panel is displaying erratic temp readings 108...96....98...99 etc. I suspect a faulty high limit/temp sensor may be doing this. Any suggestions?
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