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I have a 2 year old Arctic Spa hot tub and I just finished troubleshooting a water flow issue. Turns out the filter bypass flapper valve broke off and was stuck at the face of the impeller. Is this thing even necessary or should I just leave it out?

I Have a vita L700C whenever I try to use the topside panel it always blinks no matter what setting I am in and it wont heat up. The clock will blink, when I change the setting to see the water temperature it continues to blink, when I change it to the set temp of 102 degrees it continues to blink. I have replaced the recirculator pump and the heater element. I am going to put in a new topside panel due to it being hard to read due to the condensation that has built up over the years. All 3 pumps work as they should. I tested the new heater element and the Ohms were within spec. When i turn the breaker on and test the heater for voltage it only reads at 0.023V. The heater element is a 4kW @ 240v system. Any ideas or help to guide me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.

Hello fellow Spa-goers! My wife and I bought a house earlier this year and we got an old (10ish years) Apollo Spas tub included in the sale. Suffice to say, I’ve been having a bunch of problems with it since. Ultimately, the issues was a stuck heater relay. In all this commotion, and with my engineering mind ticking, I decided to design a new control board that utilizes more modern parts to upgrade the old clunky SpaBuilders-Gecko boards. I’ve added wifi control (with phone app) and can drive a 7+kW heater. It can control 6 pumps, ozone and lighting with pressure and temperature inputs for limits. I know there are other folks out there (spaguts for example) that sell retrofit boards, but these are pricey for what they are. I wanted to reach out to this great community and see whether anyone would be interested in this, and what features people would like to see to help them with existing spa builds or retrofits. cheers, tom

Hi all, One of the fittings as pictured with water coming out has snapped internally (barbed area inside the hose) however I am not sure what it’s replacement part is? Any help would be great.

Help! Everywhere I have read, the high limit switch is located in the cabinet as a red button that can be reset. I don’t see anything that resembles that. Am I missing something?

Hi, I have a pool with an inground spa. The spa/pool is close to 40 years old and I believe I have a leak behind one of my Spa jets. The local pool repair companies won't touch the jets. I am hoping someone on this forum can help me identify the jets I have and or help me figure out how to remove them. Any advice is much appreciated.

Hello all. I work on a ranch and just got a new hot tub. It's well water and it's not good. I filled the tub the first time and after the bottom area filled I already noticed the water was cloudy with a brown/red/green color. At that initial start up I had no idea what it was. I couldn't get the water balanced in order to sanitize in case it was organic. I put some clearing product in, a coagulant, and it turned the sediment into a sticky mess. Drain, clean, start over. Next time around I had bought some new filters than the one it came with. I bought an inline filter from EcoOne. I think that is 10 micron. I filled it... same sediment problem so the inline filter did not work. After running the pumps all day and continually brushing the sides and surfaces with a sponge mop to keep it from settling I eventually got it clear as the filter in the tub itself eventually caught the stuff. The silty sediment would also collect around the water line especially with the jets on as the silt would be carried by any bubbles create and was able to wipe that off on occassion as well. I literally just added maybe 2 inches of water to the 325 gal tub to raise the water level. I still used the eco one filter even though it had no effect but with low water pressure. Didn't matter. Just that little bit of water added the silt into the tub and I'm doing the running of the pumps all day to try to get it out again. I need a serious pre filter for tiny particles. I have seen some 1 micron inline filters but I'm now wary of them. It would be nice to be able to see inside to see if it's working. Would be nice to get a canister type filter that connects to garden hose where I can put a 1 micron or less filter inside it to fill this thing. Preferably something clear? It's a winter area so it would need to be portable. Put on when filling the tub, take off when finished. And yes, the well people have come out and the water is being tested. But before the results and possible plan of action I need to figure out something. Even topping off the tub sends the silt flying. Thanks

Can someone check my math. If my salt level is reading 2500 ppm but should be 1750 ppm how much water should I replace in a 210 gal spa? (I made a dumb mistake and added too much salt during initial startup). To correct the high salt level, this is how I calculated that 90 gallons should be replaced with fresh water: 2500 current ppm /1750 desired ppm =1.43 then subtract 1 and multiply 0.43 X 210 = 90.3 Gal. Seems to me that's like a lot of water to be drained. If I do the same calculation, but plug in the upper salt limit of 2200 ppm, then it comes out to about 30 gallons to be replaced. Maybe I'll start by draining 60 gallons and take a measurement at that point before draining any additional?

Hey guys, So I have a had a bit of a lengthy project. I have a used inifinity spas hot tub (balboa z-series spa pack) with two motors in it, and one of the motors starting getting super loud consistently, low or high speed. I opted to replace the motor because it's around 10 years old and there was a lot of corrosion. During replacement of the motor, I came across a loose cable in my GFCI breaker box that caused the motor relay 30A fuse to fry on the spa pack. So I repaired the loose wire, replaced the 30A fuse, and replaced the motor. We made lots of progress, as the motor now turns on low speed properly; however, when attempting to change that motor to high speed, it buzzes loudly then shuts off. Using a multimeter, I determined that it's a voltage overload, as testing the low speed with common at the motor is 240v (as it should be) when jets are set to low speed, and the high speed wire with common is 0v, which is also good. However, when I set the jets to high speed, the low-speed wire is still 240v with the common, and the high-speed with common is ALSO 240v, so they're both feeding power simultaneously. It seems like the relay isn't turning off the low-speed wire when it turns on the high. Does anyone have any suggestion or thought? Thank you!

Hello all, I'm new to Pool Spa Forum and also for the hot tub/spa subject. Please forgive me for my lack of knowledge. I tried every search engine to find this in-ground spa brand but did not have much success. Does anybody recognize this hot tub brand in the picture? How old (roughly) is this unit? ______ Here is the full story behind this, and I have a few more questions if you have time to read. The house I purchased a few months ago came with this in-ground hot tub, and it was listed as a non-functioning item. After all the hours/yard cleaning and renovations, I finally got free time to look at the hot tub. It was covered with a heavy wooden panel, and it seems the hot tub was not used for years (tenant confirmed they did not use it for six years at least.) The acrylic/fiberglass tub had few inches of old dirty water left with some residue. I cleaned up everything and washed the tub. I filled the water and turned the two pump switches (picture 6), everything seems to be working fine. Jets working, Water circulation pump is working, heater turned on and seemed working fine too. These are the equipment this system has, Jandy LXi gas heater (runs on natural gas) Jandy Pro Series CS200 filter Two separate pumps (for water circulation and jets) Air pump (very loud) Of course, the first round of water was full of dirt/dark-colored. I removed the water and cleaned the filters (Jandy CS200, canisters 1 and 2.) Filled up again with water, added liquid chlorine (Home Depot brand and added a little over half a gallon), let it run for few hours. Removed water again and cleaned the tub shell, filters. Filled up with water for the 3rd time, added liquid chlorine, circulated for few hours every day for a week (now water is clear), pumped the water out again. Now the tub is empty, as you see in the pictures. I ordered a new filter for the Jandy CS200 to replace the old filter. I will fill water again, run one more time for a week, and remove the water for the 4th time before using it. I know this is an old hot tub, but I would like to use it until the heater/motors fail (if possible) and maybe replace this with an above-ground new hot tub. I appreciate it if can help me to identify/replace few things, and some advice, What else should I do before I use it (I will do the water PH, alkaline, chlorine balance)? Hot tub jets are old and brittle (Picture 3, 4 & 5.) I need to replace them (if possible) and want to know how to remove them. I was managed to pull two fish eye parts out (picture 5) but not the whole unit that I need to replace. Two small holes in each side of the jet cover (picture 4) are just plastic hole. Not screws or anything in it. How can I remove yellow stains on the tub shell? (stains from old water and organic materials left for years). I tried bleach, white vinegar, alcohol but had no luck of removing them. Do I need to run both pumps all the time when I use the hot tub? Can someone please explain to me the pump/filtration process in picture 6? I appreciate if you have time to help me with this project.

Dr Wellness Spa G2 Tranquility. Hi, I need to replace this insert or even replace the entire jet assembly body thing. Can anyone help identify this by part number, or point me to a replacement product. I believe this is called a "directional" jet. Thank you in advance. Michele

I am trying to do the decontamination process from Nitro. I have already done the enzyme part and dumped that. Now it's filled and I am trying to balance it to the TA of 80 and PH of 7.2. I've got the TA at 80 but nothing is getting the PH down. I just bought the test kit K-2106. The PH is showing at the highest level, and I only have to add 2 drops and it turns pink. So I check the book and for my 350 gallon spa I calculate that I need .63875 oz of muratic acid (18.89 ml) I do that and come back a few hours later or the next morning and test again. It gives me the same thing - high PH and 2 drops turns it pink. I've done this 4 times now. The only thing differently that I've done is that there is no filter. I accidentally missed the part of throwing the filter into the spa when I put the enzyme in and have a new one ordered. I didn't think it would be a good idea to put the dirty one back in. (The spa set with water for over a year - covered on a covered porch. Water was still crystal clear.) Any ideas on what I should do?

Recently remodeled our pool. When we put the pool in spa mode the jets don't create any disturbance (no bubbles). The heater still works and the Jandy e-pump is on highest rpm possible. Just not enough pressure to make the bubbles come when the spa is in spa mode. Any possible problems come to mind?

I hope this is the right section for this. We have had a major problem with our spa jets for over a year and a half now. The pool/spa combo was built in 2008. I am a young adult child of my father who owns this pool along with my mother. I am a disabled dependent and this spa is what I utilize for physical therapy and pain relief, it is not just a simple tool of leisure. My father has always been horrible at maintenance. He never maintenanced our pool until summer 2019. He never changed the pool filters, never changed the heater (which finally busted a few months back and was leaking gas fumes all over the place), and he didn't get a new pump until the same time he changed the filters when it was chugging to its death. He was surprised to learn these things had life-spans and needed to be changed out, and of course never listened to me whenever I told him something was wrong with our pool. The jets had lost a lot of strength, reasonably, as our old pump started to die. However, when we got our new pump they were stronger than they had ever been. They were so strong you couldn't put your hand flat up against them and stop the flow of water when on high (3300 rpm). When the jets were like that it was extremely helpful to me as I have myofascial pain syndrome in my back and wake up filled with knots everyday. The jets being so strong got them out in no time. Just a couple weeks later though I noticed the jets seemed maybe 10% less strong. I use this spa everyday and can easily tell the most minute difference in jet strength. I'd say it went down to about maybe 25% less strength before my dad decided to clean the filters and see if that would help. They were very dirty and would get dirty very quickly now with this new pump. About as dirty in 2 weeks as they used to get in months (according to my father). For a while it was like that, the strength would go down, my dad would clean the filters, and the jets would return to pretty much full strength. Now, this far down the line the jets are at about 30% strength now, you can cover the jets with your hand so easily a baby could do it. Now my knots are extremely difficult to get out and take much longer and fewer get released. We had someone look at the jets and say the pressure was fine, which told me this guy had no clue what he was doing. He did this thing where he said he cleared out the jets by turning them on when the spa is empty or something like that (I'm not quite sure, I wasn't there), and he said that helped (it did not). He also said to use a degreaser on the filters which we have already done before. Something else to note, just before summer 2020 we had someone come to repair the solar panels for the pool. The guy who did that said when he popped open whichever pipe he needed to on a panel the water was trickling out, and he said it should've been shooting out, so there was some kind of problem going on. The pump pressure meanwhile read in a normal range. So, it isn't me making this up like my father says, a guy came and said there was an issue with the water pressure! My father says the jets are plenty strong for him, but he doesn't understand how important it is that they work how they are supposed to so I can get pain relief and gain mobility. He doesn't really care. Now, if anyone possibly knows what the issue is with our spa it would be a massive help. A spa should be in 100% working order all the time, I don't see how that is some crazy concept. This spa cost and continues to cost money and my father seems to not care that he's paying for something that barely works. He doesn't really use it so out of sight out of mind, but I don't have that luxury. Also, if anyone knows of a tool that can measure the rpm of the jets directly from the jets that would help a great deal too because I need a reading on that to show the jets are not at the pressure the pump is. Thanks.

Hi! Have an older model morgan spa bottom 3 blinking lights, light above temp 4th icon with 2 vertical curvy lines staying lit - nothing coming on. Just changed the bottom fuse in the heater. Thanks so much!

Hello, Wondering if anyone can help me identify what this is. Recently had an FL2 error code on my spa and while inspecting the wires behind the panel I noticed some charring in an area towards the bottom of the control box. This was lying at the bottom of the box. The tub seems to work fine other than the FL2 error and I can’t find anywhere on the board where this would have come from.

I have a 2001 Hot Springs Landmark that isn't getting heat and the jet motor isn't working. The circ pump is working great. I replaced my relay board and my main board a few months ago and it has run great since then until now. I'm pretty sure the relay board is supposed to have a red light and a green light but all I am getting is a red light. The red and green light on the main board are lit up as expected. No other lights inside are on. The power light on the controls is on but the ready light isn't, again, to be expected. I would assume this new board is bad but I'm not sure. Any guidance on diagnosing this would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, I have a Coleman SaluSpa that I’ve had for about 2 years now. I used it last year with no issues and then this year, I’ve had some issues with the water staying clean. I’ve attached some pictures and a video that show what’s going on. There is a lint like substance that floats around and when I try to scoop it up, it breaks up into tiny pieces. When I first remove the cover, it’s mostly collected itself in a couple big piles of whatever it is. I’ve replaced the filters, chlorine, PH, and shock has been applied consistently to ensure an uninhabitable environment For bacteria. So I’m not sure what’s going on. Had anyone else experienced anything similar? If so, whats going on? If not, what should I do? IMG_0242.MOV IMG_0243.MOV

So what now....? I got my Lay-Z Spa Hawaii Airjet at the weekend and set it up yesterday. Chemical readings seem to be ok. So the spa is heated up to 40oc. Do I now just leave it switched on or do I use the timer function thing (not that I have worked that out yet)? Complete novice no idea what I am doing. TIA

The bromine tablets I've loaded into the floating dispenser in my hot tub keep caking up together, forming a solid mass that is very difficult to break up and remove. What's the best way to clean out my floating dispenser and how can I keep this from happening again? Thanks!

Hi all. I just changed the water in my Tropic Seas spa (375 gallon, 6 seater) and when I turn the ozonator on, the water foams up. I am using a Nature2 spa stick and bromine along with Cense. I havent always had this foaming issue. I cleaned the spa after draining it. Filled it as I always have, test strips indicate everything in the recommended ranges. Any idea on this? Would love to be able to use the ozonator without this foam. I know some bubbles are expected because its air blowing through the water, but it foams up. Once the ozonator is off, it does disappear relatively quickly. Any help or thoughts would be helpful. Thanks!

Hello all! I didn't get any responses on my last post so am trying again as I have now troubleshooted a bit further. I have a mid-2000s model Hot Springs Vanguard. Everything is working except I cannot get the heat to rise above 98 degrees, even when set to 104. Here is what has been tried thus far: New circulation pump New GFCI 20 amp breaker installed New heater - Note: I had to jump the pressure switch on the board because the new heater does not have the external cord that runs to the circ board Disconnected Ozonator from Circ board (Line was cut prior to me purchasing the house with said hot tub) No visible damage to circ board - removed and checked for the infamous burns on the back Recently re-wired to match the manual (IE: heater is hooked to the 30amp and pumps hooked to the 20 amp) I mention this because previously, they were reversed. The hot tub would get to temp fine then but would constantly flip the breaker. Once I determined it was wired backwards I switched everything according to the manual. I have tried flipping both the 20 and 30amp breakers on at the same time as well as turning the 20 on first and then the 30 (per the manual). Heat time is much slower now (previously would come to temp from ice cold to 104 in about 8 hours); Now it takes around 24 hours but still will not go past 98 degrees. Any thoughts? ideas? Note that the pressure switch jump worked fine when the wiring was reversed so I am not sure if this is related to this issue or not. I am rural and getting someone out to service is next to impossible! Thank you.

Just wondering if anyone else ownes an arctic spa baffin 45. I cant find any thing about them online anywhere. Just wanted to compare experiences with someone who owns the same tub to see if they have run into the same problems as me. Namely, the jets powered by pump 1 being very under powered. Pump 1 shutting down occasionally. And filter bypass valve breaking. Thanks, Josh.

Feel like I've read every thread possible but looking for a simple answer I can't seem to find anywhere!! I currently have this paver patio laid in my backyard and I wanted to know if I can place the hot tub on top of the pavers that are already laid. As you can see, the pavers are slightly uneven (its very slight, less than an inch with some in the middle being a little higher than where the outsides would like) and I know hot tubs are supposed to be level. My question is what is the best way to level the hot tub on this surface? Is there a need to buy Handi-Spa pads and will placing a Spa Pad over this area make the hot tub sink in more level? https://www.spadepot.com/Handi-Spa-Pads-Box-of-3-P847?zmam=55673001&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=AC1058&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx-e07aSV5wIVnv_jBx0o5AiREAQYBSABEgJllvD_BwE are what I am referring to Can I just buy heavy duty wedges and slide them around the hot tub to make up for the extra space? https://www.amazon.com/Ez-Shim-Heavy-Duty-Shims-count/dp/B002Y0LIQE Is another option to lay a level of gravel down to try to make up for some of the unevenness on top of the rocks? Or can someone just tell me if this uneven paver really isnt that terrible and I really shouldn't worry about it in the long run? Help is GREATLY APPRECIATED!! hot tub is here next week so I do not wan to dig up the pavers. I can always get a pad and put it on the grass but I've read pavers are a good choice. Thank you!!

I have a spa that overflows into my pool. I noticed the jets suddenly were not pushing out much water, then my blower was not working. I replaced the blower, the new blower kept overheating. We narrowed it down to having some sort of blockage. We had rotorooter try and clear the line (way overpriced) then we used a gas pump and pulled the water back from the spa, hoping to dislodge anything, there was a small piece of plastic that came out. Then we pumped through the jets in hopes to push anything out. STILL, the blower is overheating and the jets seem very weak without the blower. ALSO the overflow into the pool is weak. I would think this means there is still something clogging behind the jets?? Is there a way to unscrew the jets? If so what tool? I have attached a picture of one of the jets. I think my next step would be to unscrew jets, if that dosn't work, drill a hole in the blower pipe to decrease back pressure but I would prefer to fix this right. I am just scare of breaking the plastic and creating more issues.