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The bromine tablets I've loaded into the floating dispenser in my hot tub keep caking up together, forming a solid mass that is very difficult to break up and remove. What's the best way to clean out my floating dispenser and how can I keep this from happening again? Thanks!
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Hello all! I didn't get any responses on my last post so am trying again as I have now troubleshooted a bit further. I have a mid-2000s model Hot Springs Vanguard. Everything is working except I cannot get the heat to rise above 98 degrees, even when set to 104. Here is what has been tried thus far: New circulation pump New GFCI 20 amp breaker installed New heater - Note: I had to jump the pressure switch on the board because the new heater does not have the external cord that runs to the circ board Disconnected Ozonator from Circ board (Line was cut prior to me purchasing the house with said hot tub) No visible damage to circ board - removed and checked for the infamous burns on the back Recently re-wired to match the manual (IE: heater is hooked to the 30amp and pumps hooked to the 20 amp) I mention this because previously, they were reversed. The hot tub would get to temp fine then but would constantly flip the breaker. Once I determined it was wired backwards I switched everything according to the manual. I have tried flipping both the 20 and 30amp breakers on at the same time as well as turning the 20 on first and then the 30 (per the manual). Heat time is much slower now (previously would come to temp from ice cold to 104 in about 8 hours); Now it takes around 24 hours but still will not go past 98 degrees. Any thoughts? ideas? Note that the pressure switch jump worked fine when the wiring was reversed so I am not sure if this is related to this issue or not. I am rural and getting someone out to service is next to impossible! Thank you. -
Hi all. I just changed the water in my Tropic Seas spa (375 gallon, 6 seater) and when I turn the ozonator on, the water foams up. I am using a Nature2 spa stick and bromine along with Cense. I havent always had this foaming issue. I cleaned the spa after draining it. Filled it as I always have, test strips indicate everything in the recommended ranges. Any idea on this? Would love to be able to use the ozonator without this foam. I know some bubbles are expected because its air blowing through the water, but it foams up. Once the ozonator is off, it does disappear relatively quickly. Any help or thoughts would be helpful. Thanks!
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Feel like I've read every thread possible but looking for a simple answer I can't seem to find anywhere!! I currently have this paver patio laid in my backyard and I wanted to know if I can place the hot tub on top of the pavers that are already laid. As you can see, the pavers are slightly uneven (its very slight, less than an inch with some in the middle being a little higher than where the outsides would like) and I know hot tubs are supposed to be level. My question is what is the best way to level the hot tub on this surface? Is there a need to buy Handi-Spa pads and will placing a Spa Pad over this area make the hot tub sink in more level? https://www.spadepot.com/Handi-Spa-Pads-Box-of-3-P847?zmam=55673001&zmas=1&zmac=1&zmap=AC1058&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx-e07aSV5wIVnv_jBx0o5AiREAQYBSABEgJllvD_BwE are what I am referring to Can I just buy heavy duty wedges and slide them around the hot tub to make up for the extra space? https://www.amazon.com/Ez-Shim-Heavy-Duty-Shims-count/dp/B002Y0LIQE Is another option to lay a level of gravel down to try to make up for some of the unevenness on top of the rocks? Or can someone just tell me if this uneven paver really isnt that terrible and I really shouldn't worry about it in the long run? Help is GREATLY APPRECIATED!! hot tub is here next week so I do not wan to dig up the pavers. I can always get a pad and put it on the grass but I've read pavers are a good choice. Thank you!!
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I have a spa that overflows into my pool. I noticed the jets suddenly were not pushing out much water, then my blower was not working. I replaced the blower, the new blower kept overheating. We narrowed it down to having some sort of blockage. We had rotorooter try and clear the line (way overpriced) then we used a gas pump and pulled the water back from the spa, hoping to dislodge anything, there was a small piece of plastic that came out. Then we pumped through the jets in hopes to push anything out. STILL, the blower is overheating and the jets seem very weak without the blower. ALSO the overflow into the pool is weak. I would think this means there is still something clogging behind the jets?? Is there a way to unscrew the jets? If so what tool? I have attached a picture of one of the jets. I think my next step would be to unscrew jets, if that dosn't work, drill a hole in the blower pipe to decrease back pressure but I would prefer to fix this right. I am just scare of breaking the plastic and creating more issues.
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I am looking for a new (external) heater to heat my hot tubs, currently using a "Coasts st-11" 11kW single phase heater, but I can't find a matching model sold in the UK. Can anyone provide me with a source for this (or suitable alternative) heater sold within the UK?
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I have a 2000 Sweetwater Palermo spa. The water temperature is 3 degrees lower than the digital readout on the display on my control panel. (the temperature from a thermometer of the water reads 97 degrees but the display reads 100). I have a new heater, new filter and recently changed the water. I've had this spa since 2000 and am very familiar with how it heats and this is really not normal for the spa. Any clues what the issue might be? Sensor, topside control panel, etc.? Thanks.
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My outdoor spa/hot tub started leaking two winters ago so I took it out-of-service, and had the local dealer out to look at it this Spring. They charged me $120 for a visit, spotted an obvious leak, then told me they no longer service spas. 8^( The good news is that apart from the obvious leak, and a few top-side parts that should be replaced (easy fixes), the controls, heater and pumps all seemed to work properly. Not bad for a tub that’s got to be 12-15 years old. So I gave up on it and tried to give it away this summer. No luck. Two potential takers both backed out after realizing what it takes to move one of these. Now I’ve got it blocked up, cleaned up a bit, and am determined to at least take a shot at repairing the leak. I got under the tub tonight and found the obvious problem… and I’m not happy. There is a PVC cap at the end of a manifold fitting and the cap hangs lower than any drain on the unit. Duh, I wonder why it cracked? Really poor design IMO. I was prepared to replace or patch a section of pipe, but this thing has me scratching my head. Not sure if these photos will help, but I think you can clearly see the crack looking from below in the first photo…I didn’t even have to scrape away any insulation. The problem here is that in order to try and get the cap as high as possible, the manufacturer jammed it on tight against the manifold stubs, one of which is not even used. Got any advice for repairing or replacing that cap? If I cut it off there’s no manifold left to slip a replacement cap on. So my thinking is to either: A) clean the surface of the cap and place and glue a new, larger diameter cap (if there is such a thing) over it, or drill a hole in the end of the cap and/or force the crack to open up so I can (hopefully) remove the entire cap. If I can do that, do I have any hope of cleaning up the old joint so that I might be able to install and seal a new cap? Thanks for any wisdom you can share.
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Posting on here as I feeling I’m getting the run around. I won’t post the make as I’m trying to work things out with the company. Few weeks ago my hot tub hit 107 , was set for 100. I was told it’s because it’s hot out. Bought this unit 3 months ago for a pretty penny. Upstate ny temps in mid 80s . Also one seat it’s jets stop working due to design flow. It’s been an issue since day one but besides the point. I powered it down and left it off for a day 85 degree day checked the temp through out the day. Went down 1 degree. It’s now set to 98, last night at 11pm was 101, got in after 20 minutes was up to 102. Have not checked today but I’m sure it’s still 101/102. Paid too much money to not use this 2-3 months out of the year. Never heard of this issue before . Seems to heat up with the jets running but the heater isn’t on. I was told it’s due to the heat generated by the pumps ??? It was 70 degrees out last night in the dark how much heat do these really generate. Seems like something broken they have been out 4-5 times already with no resolution. Any ideas escalate to manager ?? Request money off , contact bbb and consumer affairs ?? I went almost 2 weeks with out using it as it’s been too hot , not temp outside the water love spas and will use it every day. 107 is a health hazard let alone not being able to use it.
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Hi all, first time poster. So I had a hot tub growing up, but never really took part in the maintenance being a kid (although drainage and scrubbing was all on me 👌). That led to me wanting one again as an adult. I don't have a lot of room and I rent, so I found an mspa b141 "4 person" hot tub. (quotes because I can't even figure out how 4 people can actually fit it in! Not just space wise, the water almost overflows with 3!). That is an inflatable Hot tub for those wondering. So like most people, learning how to deal with balancing and water chemistry isn't instant, but through research and trial/error, I got the hang of it. I test my water fairly religiously and everytime before I go in, and manually clean debris + adjust chemistry as needed. The tub is apparently around 700L capacity. The last week or so however, I've been having a weird issue with free chlorine spiking. I use an aquachek digital tester and a standard test kit (adding chemicals to sample and comparing colors) as backup. The readings are accurate. I use chlorine tabs that are stabilized and they have worked perfectly, and the dosage is right. My ph is usually balanced, but tends to push towards the high 6s before I treat. Without adding a different dose or changing anything, I started getting free chlorine readings in the 7-9.8 range! Ph usually between 6.9-7.7, alkalinity around 100-130. I can bring it down by removing the chlorine tab floater, adding water, leaving it open for the sun etc.... But as soon as I put the chlorine back in, it will climb to those high levels within the day. I've shocked it with non chlorine shock which does not change the behaviour, and tried to put a less than recommended dose in. So I'm at a confused point here. This is free chlorine to be clear, and the numbers are apparently correct.
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Hi, we are looking for our first hot tub and I’m hoping you can help with some advise. We live in the Twin Cities, so efficiency during the winter extremes is very important for us. I’m not overly concerned with number of jets, stereos, lights, etc. What I am concerned with is insulation, reliability (in the hot tub and the dealer), and TCO. I’m curious to hear from others on here what their buying experience was and how they feel their hot tub did getting through this last brutal winter. I’d also love to hear opinions on purification systems (salt, chemical, ozone, etc). We are looking to get a 5-6 person hot tub for outside and I expect to pay between $8-12k when all said and done. Thanks in advance!
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I'm hoping I can get some help Its my job to take care of a brand new 2018 Hotspring Sovereign for a friend. Its was installed about 6 weeks ago and only used 3 times by my friend. Here is the problem the logo light will flash red after 3 to 4 hours. The hot top dealer had me clean the filters there's 3 , that didn't work after a few hours it started blinking red, then they had me take the filters out all together and run the tub still after a few hours the light is red and every time it goes red i have to reset the main breaker. They have had there service team out 3 times to correct the problem with no luck today they are coming again. Does anyone have any idear. Thank's Denny
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I have a Balboa EL2001 Mach 2 circuit board and ML700 topside panel with aux top panel. I am trying to pinpoint if I have an issue with the topside panel or the circuit board. The board was replaces under 2 years ago. The top panel acts like everything works, icons change like it is working, but nothing actually turns on. None of the 3 motors and not even the spa water light. All the fuses are good and I don't see any visible damage on the board. I would love to be able to unplug both top panels and test if I can get the circuit board to turn anything on. Is that possible?
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Brand New Gecko Spa pack, now Display not working?
pMak26 posted a topic in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Hey guys, looking for some technical support. I'm retrofitting a new S-class Gecko spa pack to my 2001 Gulf Coast spa. Once installed, the display screen backlight turns on, but the display does not show anything. Further, the buttons on the panel do not control the indicated items. For example, hitting a button such as the light button turns the blower motor on. Hitting the arrow down button turns pump 1 on. None of the functions are correct. So, I tried a brand new panel, same issue. I have tried changing the jumper position with no change. The display continues to not work. So, I tried to replace the brand new S-class Gecko spa pack with another one, same issue persists. The old control pack is no longer available. Here are my tub specs: 240v - line 1, neutral, ground, line2 2 pumps Blower Ozone Does another have a clue as to what could be going on? I'm desperate for some help! -
Has anyone heard of Natural Whirlpool Spas & Baths. I've got a spa that has model # NS5001 and its fiberglass
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Greetings. I have Sundance Majesta that needs a replacement pump. The rubber mounts have torn and need replaced. They are just like these, which I've purchased 4 replacements as well. The threaded metal "bolt" isn't one piece. There is a top and bottom "bolt" with the thick rubber bushing between them. But, I can't seem to get the 4 old "stems" out of the wood floor (the rubber bushing and top bolt have broken off and been removed). Any suggestions on how to remove these old stems? Can't get enough "bite" from channel locks. I assume they just unscrew from another threaded metal piece pressed into the bottom of the flooring hole (or something like that). Or, can I cut a new piece of pressed board to put over the old area, screw it to the floor and mount the pump on that? Looking for advice. Thanks!
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Hi -- we're in the middle of purchasing a hot tub, and are considering the Mystique from Vita Spa ('mystique' on https://vitaspa.com/hot-tubs/). We're a little bit lost trying to find reliable or reputable information about it -- there are very few reviews, and it's hard to get a sense of which of the stats actually matter. The main draw for us on this tub over others we've looked at (from Bullfrog, dimension one, and hot springs) is the size -- it's a little bigger and should fit a few more people Has anyone had any experience with the mystique, or with Vita Spas in general? Are there any things you wish you knew? Thank you for your help!
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Hello everyone! I recently moved into a new house and didn’t receive any information about the spa here. We are draining it and trying to clean it but the filter seems to be broken. I’m not sure if there’s a part I can buy to fix it or an easy way to hack it?
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The heater lights from what I can tell, then hot air starts coming out of the vent, then it gets going harder and even more air blows out of the vent (warm air), and then it eventually stops and the service light comes on. Anything I can do to resolve this?
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I have a 2003 Sundance Sweetware Palmero hot tub which was working fine for years. I didn't run it for a year and then when I turned it back on it would trip the power breaker when the heater would click on. I checked around and everyone said it was a bad heater so I bought a new heater and installed it. No change. I then heard people say that it was my circuit board with a bad lead. I bought a new circuit board and installed it, NO CHANGE. I know the power is good because when I don't have the heater connected on the board the jets run fine. Gotta say this has me stumped! All help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Are there any reputable hot tub companies that sell spa over-runs, truly discounted, or used hot tubs in the North West part of Florida? My 10 year old hot tub finally passed on to the "hot tub heaven in the sky", and I'm having trouble wanting to spend $12,000+ on a new one. NOTE: I'm 6' 2" so almost no hut tub has deep enough seats for me. The only one I"ve found so far is the lounge seat only (not the other seats) in Caldera Spas's Geneva hot tub. I'm interested in the Bullfrog Spa line due to the swappable jets, but have only sat in one hot tub, and of course the seat height was to low. So my two questions are: Reasonable driving distance to look at deeply discounted hot tubs that are at least 89" X89" (seat at least 6-8) (Drive time from my area of Florida to Tallahassee is; 3 hours, Mobile, AL; 1 hour, Birmingham, AL; 4 hours, Gulfport, MS; 2 hours Bullfrog Spas; Reviews only from actual users. Erick
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Hello All Have a look: https://reefbuilders.com/2012/04/11/milwaukee-instruments-ph-orp-controller/ Is it possible to use this for a hot-tub chemical feeding? Maybe just salt water + PH down automation ? Thank you !
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Has anyone ever made their own cover? I'm thinking about using some double stacked 2" foam and luan, wrapped in a UV coated Vinyl. All the websites I've seen are outrageously priced, and I can't seem to find anyone in Louisville KY under $1000. Any good sites for this sort of thing? Any help is appreciated
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The other day my hot tubs hush pump return split nut collar had broken which caused a water like explosion due to the pressure; after that had happened my hot tub shut off right away. Once the new part was installed I went to flip the breaker for the hot tub only to notice right after flipping it, it trips again. I had gone to the hot tub management system and unplugged the pumps one by one to find that it did not trip with hush pump disconnected, now the hush pump was fine and working up until this point, also which nothing had happened to it other than the split nut break. Model number is 750E
