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Found 9 results

  1. Hey guys, So I have a had a bit of a lengthy project. I have a used inifinity spas hot tub (balboa z-series spa pack) with two motors in it, and one of the motors starting getting super loud consistently, low or high speed. I opted to replace the motor because it's around 10 years old and there was a lot of corrosion. During replacement of the motor, I came across a loose cable in my GFCI breaker box that caused the motor relay 30A fuse to fry on the spa pack. So I repaired the loose wire, replaced the 30A fuse, and replaced the motor. We made lots of progress, as the motor now turns on low speed properly; however, when attempting to change that motor to high speed, it buzzes loudly then shuts off. Using a multimeter, I determined that it's a voltage overload, as testing the low speed with common at the motor is 240v (as it should be) when jets are set to low speed, and the high speed wire with common is 0v, which is also good. However, when I set the jets to high speed, the low-speed wire is still 240v with the common, and the high-speed with common is ALSO 240v, so they're both feeding power simultaneously. It seems like the relay isn't turning off the low-speed wire when it turns on the high. Does anyone have any suggestion or thought? Thank you!
  2. Long-time lurker here; I've found many posts here pretty helpful in diagnosing/repairing previous issues. Current issue is a 2003 Tiger River Bengal M that has a non-op jetpump. I get a "jets icon" whenever I turn on the jets or run a clean cycle as well as a red light on D17 on the board. Unfortunately, jet pump (WaveMaster 7000) doesn't respond... not even a hum, so I'm ruling out a bad cap. Motor spins freely too when turned with a wrench. All other items connected to the board work just fine and have 120V across the terminals. I checked voltage across the flag terminals on the jet pump with it turned on and I get between 4.2-5.1V. Is it possible that a relay has gone out? I looked around the board for burn marks or other charred remnants and everything looks clean. The board is from 2003, so I'm certain it's getting ready to retire. I just replaced the heater control board last year after one of the relays burned a huge hole in the board. Any ideas on what resistance I should be seeing on the relays? I'm getting ready to run out and get some alligator clips to test them. Thanks in advance for any advice you have!
  3. Hi there I have a old siberien tiger 2003 ish based in uk. Everthing has stoped, control panel has no lights on no pumps going heater of etc. I have power to first circuit board with 2 push in relays. The jump cable from this has power in it to large circuit board. Is the fault likely to be the relays in the first board. I've taken them out (relays) and they click when power is put to them. No visible hot marks anywhere. If this makes sense any help would be appreciated John
  4. I just picked up a 1998 Dakota Skyler with a 4kW heater controlled by a Balboa LiteLD CCAJ board. The heater wasnt working, was corroded... I replaced it with a new 4W coil. Still no heat. Temp probe is good, pressure sensor is good. I'm wired on 240V. Pump works on both speeds. Supply AC is correct. Heater measures 120VAC above ground on BOTH sides when call for heat is on (heat light on panel on). Both sides of heating coil are 120 V above ground, 240 V above black, and 0V above red. Thus 0V across the heater coil and no heat. So both sides of the coil are electrically connected to red and no voltage difference across them. I pulled the board out. It has 5 relays. The coils on 4 of them measure about 260 Ohms each, and one shows no continuity. Thus I presume a bad relay (th ed relay that connects to one side of the heater coil). The contactors on the relays work fine, as each tested well with a meter. I reinstalled the board and manually tripped the relay that I suspect is dead. However that did not change the voltage readings across the heater as I hoped it would. I've ordered a couple new relays. But I could use some advice!! What can anyone recommend? It would be much better with heat!! Thanks much!! Eric
  5. Hello all! Pool equipment Jandy Aqualink RS6 Jandy Stealth pumps Long time reader 1st time poster. I have two issues with my pool and before I call the pool guy I want to make sure I’ve done all I can to resolve the issue on my own. 1st Issue – Pump stays on. When in auto mode or in service mode the pool pump stays on until I pop breaker or tap the relay with a screwdriver… Now here is the tricky part. I purchased and installed a new relay and the same thing happened. I had to tap the new relay with screwdriver and the pump turned off. Bad relay? I install 1 3rd one today and we will see. Any ideas? 2nd issue – Spa keeps draining each night. This just started happening. When I wake up some mornings the SPA level drops about ¼ to right above the spa jets (see pic). This does not happen every night and since its “winter in California” we are not using the SPA. My logic… If there is a SPA return valve issue the SPA should drain each night. Is that correct? Any help would be appreciated. Image links upload image free
  6. I inherited a 1997 Beachcomber Model 550 that is not heating but I wish it did. Here' what I know: -the motor is running normally and the pump is working fine, both are brand new -there are no error codes on the topside controller but the red heating status light does not come on -when powered up the actual temperature reading is 54F now. Was 56F yesterday which I'm assuming means the water temperature sensor is working -the temperature setting on the controller is set at 100F. I am able to raise and lower this setting but nothing changes in terms of operation -heater element resistance is 15 ohms but no 240v at terminals -the heater relay on the circuit board shows 253 ohms but is not closing which explains no 240v at heater element terminals. Manually closing the relay gives 240v at the heater element. Having trouble testing for 120v at relay, not sure how to do this. -with the power off, pressure switch is open. Not able to confirm if the pressure switch is closing when powered up, not sure how to do this either. -removing the pressure switch/high temp sensor connector (4 pin combined connector) from the circuit board before powerup causes a Sn fault -checked the high temperature sensor for continuity, not showing any resistance. I understand Ohms should vary with temperature, ie. higher when colder and my guess this is the cause of the problem. -circuit board looks ok, ie. nothing burnt, no cracks, continuity in several circuits I checked.. Any insight is appreciated not to mention some advice as to where a guy can find parts for older Beachcomber hot tubs. Thank you.
  7. Hey folks. I'm new to the forum, but not new to portable spas. I've got a 2003 Hawkeye spa that just had its first major failure. One of the heater relays failed in dramatic fashion. See attached photo. Anyhow, the board is pretty much toast and 14 years is a good run. It's a Gecko controller (model 0202-205108) and Gecko and many web vendors show 0202-205212 as a drop-in replacement. Not so in my case. I tried one and first of all it is designed to run the ozone any time the pump is on low speed. That's fine for the filter cycle and while heating, but to have the thing pumping out ozone while someone is in the spa running the pump on low seems unhealthy. BTW, there is no circulation pump. I run the filter cycle for 3 hours every 12. My old controller had a relay for the ozone circuit and it would turn the ozone off if the pump or light buttons were pushed. I was willing to live with a little extra ozone exposure, but here's the rub. If you have a 240V set-up and the pump is wired for 240V but the ozone is 120V, the new Gecko 0202-205212 would back-feed power to the ozone through the low-speed pump circuit any time power was on the system. In other words, the ozone generator was on CONTINUOUSLY. Not good. The response from Gecko tech support was "what do you want ozone for anyway?" They basically seem to have designed all the currently available S-class controllers with no regard to the use of ozone. I could have bought a 240V ozone generator, but the 120V UV unit I have now is fairly new and working fine. Does anyone offer a good controller that has a logic control and relay for the ozone generator? Gecko does not seem to. So I guess I'm looking for a controller/topside bundle now. The topside is a Gecko TSC-19. Do any other brands work with that topside control? Thanks for any advise you can offer.
  8. Hello, I have a 1999 Sundance optima Spa. i recently bought a SpaCuzn Core insert from the manufacturer. Long story short, it was the incorrect size, and got sucked in the intake. The pump shut down. I shut the breaker off immediately. We drained the tub and retrieved the filter inset and put the tub back together. At the time of the incident, the pump was only 7 months old. Afterwards, the pump felt like it had diminished flow, but was working on both a low and a high speed. About a month later, the pump stopped working all together. We drained the tub once again, and after taking pump apart, we discovered that in the process of the insert getting sucked into the intake, it broke part of the plastic filter housing and that small piece of plastic also got sucked into the impeller and had been rolling around in there this whole time. We just replaced the pump with a brand new one. We were excited to get back up and running, but are having having the same problem - we push the button on the panel and it shows both 1 and 2 speed, we hear a click and the pump does not turn on. So, draining the tub again and are in search whatever part we need. Any ideas?? Thank you!
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