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Found 3 results

  1. Our Prodigy H came with the house. I think it’s a 2011. Serial starts with H4N. It’s a 110v. It blew the breaker in the electrical control box. After reset, filter clean etc., jets don’t run when using Topside controls. Some of the buttons don’t operate. What part do I order to replace top controller? Eagle? Do I need any other part? See video. IMG_6677.MOV Jets will run if I bypass and give power so basically not getting power for some reason. Service tech said it was heater relay board and replaced. Also said was bad ozone sensor and disconnected. No change. Lost confidence in tech. I don’t have before pics and I don’t know what the heater relay looked like before. Heater 2 pin power jumpers were in positions 3/4 and 5/6 when diagram shows 5/6 and 6/7. Moved. No Change. Opened Topside control and looks like board got wet and is damaged. See pictures. Other symptoms Control Unplugged light is on Red. Bus Status light on Green. The wire to the No fault heater is cut and the wire from the pressure switch plug on board is spliced and is connected to the wire that goes to the flow switch.?? To determine what parts to buy, this is what I have. The main control box cover is a Q2020. The control board and the new heater relay are Item # 76082 Orca Control Box now obsolete. Main motherboard is definitely item # 78039 because the main top controls and auxiliary control plugs are phone jack connectors. New heater relay board is blue like an original item #76071 but when I look online that is obsolete and it says to use Item #77118. What top control replacement do I order? Is the heater relay board the right one or should it be #77118? If new heater relay is ok, is everything wired correctly on board and heater relay?
  2. Hi folks Apologies for the *long* post - but could use some help. I have been troubleshooting a blinking red-light problem with my Hotspring Landmark (2000 year model). I have always had a problem after refilling this spa (everytime after a refill if I flipped both breakers on - the blinking red light would turn-on) - the way I would resolve this is by turning the 20A breaker on, then running jets for at least 30 mins to an hour and then turning the 30A breaker on. Sometimes it would take 2 - 3 times of doing this - but it usually worked. Then I refilled last month and noticed one of my jet-pumps leaking - I had a local service person come take it out - had to drain the freshly filled water and replace the wet seal and impeller on it. When he came back to re-install it, he accidentally broke the little black nozzle off the right-angle elbow attached to the circulation pump (that connects to the bleeder hose) - so he replaced the elbow and put a brass barbed fitting in it to connect to the hose. After this I refilled the tub and had my blinking light problem again - and noticed that I wasn't seeing too many bubbles through the bottom drain (they have been low in general) - so did the following troubleshooting: 1) removed the filter and tried - didn't work 2) removed the venturi injector tubing from ozonator check valve -- water comes out of this unless I started Jet-pump-1 at which point the water gets sucked back into the injector.. 3) removed the intake hose from the circulation pump and connected it back in to remove any airlock -- started the jets and 10 minutes later started the 30A breaker - did not trip this time.. However few hours later the red-light was flashing again.. 4) This time I took out the circulation pump (thinking it might have scale deposits inside or something broken) - plugged the hoses with caps so I didn't have to drain and dismantled the pump wet-end (its a silentflo 5000) - pump looked great - no scale / no deposits / no broken parts.. I took it to my local store and the tech there did a dry test and said the circ-pump looked ok to him. 5) Since I had the circ. pump removed - I decided to check the watakins no-fault heater for clogs too, so I removed it; opened the end caps and it's clean as well; resistance was ~9 ohms. 6) So put everything back together - turned on the the 20A breaker and got a good-stream of bubbles initially but they trickled back to a low stream very quickly after that. This time around after disconnecting the injector tubing at the ozone check valve, water still leaked out even after turning on the jet pump - so something was different than before. 7) Turned on the 30A breaker - didn't get the blinking light - left it running -- of course few hours later the blinking red light was back!! So I am still thinking it's my circ. pump - just ordered a new Laing E5 repalcement - but in the meantime - I am wondering if something else is going on.. Any suggestions from anyone? Thanks mrcotton73..
  3. I have a Hot Springs spa - we had too many people in it over the weekend, and the water level dropped a lot. We filled it up by putting the hose in the water and now there is a blinking red light and the jets won’t work. Any ideas on how to fix it? Is it something i can do myself? Will leaving it for a day fix it? Thanks in advance
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