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  1. Hi All, I'm posting for help as I really want to get my hot tub back up and running (we took it down for the winter because I got a job out of town). We bought our hot tub second hand two years ago. Didn't have any issues for the first year, however, at the end the second summer, we starting having unexplained leaking and an HL code that will NOT go away. Each day we have to add water to the tub because the volume has significantly gone down. However, when taking off the panels, there is no evidence of leaking water anywhere to be found! It doesn't make sense! Also, our HL code came on (I'm wondering if it might have been the result of a power outage tripping it?). We have tried resetting the GFCI several times, but it will never go away. The water is certainly not at a super high temp... it seems to be normal temp (or maybe a bit cooler than normal? I seem to think it's colder but my husband thinks it's normal hah) I had a local technician come out, but it was extremely expensive and I didn't really get any answers. In order to check the seals and check the heater, he had to empty the tub, which then we couldn't check the leaking or whatnot because there was no water. He recommended I get a new pump and a hair pin element but I'm not entirely sure this is the solution. I also could not find either of the parts needed on the website he provided (to avoid buying through the company at a MUCH higher price). I don't want to spend all that money on new parts without being sure. Anyone have a similar situation that could help?
  2. Good morning! My Sundance Optima 850 has the FLO error and the circulation pump is not running. If the flow switch is bad, will this keep the circulation pump from running? Or is it for sure the circulation pump? (well...unless it's a control board issue I suppose) The flow switch does have a little debris on it which made me suspect it, but if the $50 part is causing the issue, that's better than the $200 part! haha! Thanks!
  3. Hi recently bought a used garden leisure spa don't know the year but the model I believe is a Camillia standard. it seats 6 and has 2 pumps. when I power on the spa normal or low pressure will come through the waterfall and the jets on the seats next to the waterfall. this is pump #1 when I press pump #1 a second time more pressure comes out of the same location mentioned above not a problem. the issue is that nothing is coming out of half the spa the jets are on . if I press pump # 2 button the #2 pump blows water out of the diverter about 2 feet high and the jets that where off are now on and the water shoots out of the spa. is it possible that pump #2 has is a super pump and I just need to replace the diverter valve so it doesn't come off when pump #2 is turned on? or can I just disconnect the second pump and only run pump #1 with medium pressure?
  4. Hi, I just replace my pool pump motor, I got a marathon electric motor, it is wired for 220 and when I turn it on, it starts making a noise like a click that is on and off. The diagram on the motor says that there is a voltage selector but I have not been able to find it I can send pictures and video if that will help.
  5. Hello All, I'm experiencing an odd behavior with my CalSpa 5000 w/ Dualy pump, and hoping this forum can help me troubleshoot. Lately my spa is having trouble activating the low-speed pump. When it cycles, the motor comes on, but the pump does not. It 'hums' but the jets do not activate. When not cycling, the same behavior is observed when I hit the jet button. In both cases, the high-speed pump works fine. The odd behavior: after hitting the high-speed pump, the low-speed works fine. It's as if the high-speed pump either improves flow / opens a gate somewhere, or it kicks the low speed pump into gear. Based on responses in multiple forums, I disabled the suction sensors by pulling the grey wires out of the motheboard this afternoon. That did not fix the problem. Thanks in advance for any thoughts you may have. Chris
  6. Hello! I own a 2003 Master Spas Legend Series with 4 pumps (1 circ, 3 jet). Pump 3 (Therapy 3) will not run. I have done some troubleshooting and I have determined it is not the topside control (when it is on standby mode and I push therapy 3, it wakes the spa up but won't turn on the pump) and I know the pump works FOR SURE. Now for the circ pump- It won't run when Therapy 1 is on, but when its off, it works fine. I have no idea what is going on. Thank you! -5k
  7. Hello, I am in the process of replacing all of our equipment as we complete a pool remodel here in Los Angeles. The only thing we are keeping is a Hayward Salt Chlorination System. We need to replace the heater, pump and filter on our approx. 24,000 gallon pool. Is a variable speed pump necessary? Worth the expense? Also, is 400k BTU overkill. We get pretty direct sun for most of the day from about 10am-5pm but the water never really gets above 75' consistently unless we have 90' weather for a few days straight. Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks!
  8. I have a in ground 40,000 gallon pool, with a variable 1 horse power speed pool pump, with DE filter. I have several questions? with a pool that size how long should i be running the pump, and should it be set to run at lower rpms for the greater part of the duration of running the pump? what is the best type of chlorine to use?, powder or liquid?, how much should I use? i have a 1 floater, is it enough? is it better to run the pool pump at night or during the day, is there a difference? how strong should the chlorine be? does it matter if a dog swims in the pool? issues with pool: walls always get yellow, pool does not stay clear, does having a dog require more chlorine?
  9. Hello Everyone, I am new to this site and thank all of you in advance for any inforamation you can give me. We are beginning our pool remodel project and need some advice on some pool equipment. OUr pool is about 25 years old or so. Our pool builder is scheduled and we are ready to to go! We hope this will be a positive and fun experience. We will be replacing all of our pool equipment and would like some recommendations on specs. Here is our info: approx 24,000 gallon pool will upgrade to 2 in pipe Equipment to Skimmer about 80 Ft Solar heating 30 ft with a 15 ft Rise We are thinking about a Pentair DE Quad Filter 60, but unsure about a pump that could hand our specs. is 1 HP too little or 3 Hp too much? Also, would it be wise to get a controller to automate the Solar heating valves. What kind of system would it need? Thank you!
  10. Without going into details of pump and filter, model and size, etc. I went away for a week. A neighbor who was watching the house noticed the pool pump was on, assumed we forgot to shut it off, and shut off the timer. It has now been off "4 or 5 days", in Arizona. I turned it back on, the pump started and ran for about 5 minutes, but no water flow. I shut the pump off, did not want to burn it out. Should it take that long to get started again, having been off 4-5 days?
  11. I have a used hot tub I'm trying to get working correctly. Is it correct that my Marquis Euphoria, when on circulation/heat cycle, is only moving water through the pipes on one side of my hot tub? Both sides work when I turn on the pumps, and the blowers work. The right pump (160?) is pretty hot but sounds as though it is working. Also, it is my understanding that if the ozonator is working it will "glow". Should the glow be very obvious? I ask because I see no appreciable glow, in daylight at least, when in the ciruclate/heat cycle.
  12. Ok, I have searched this forum over and over, and can't find the answer to my problem, so I am writing this in hopes of divine intervention. I recently purchased a 2010 Four Winds Maui spa with Balboa 500SZ controls and M7 system. Hooked it all up and it ran fine for the last few days. Today, I heard the low speed pump kick on, like it usually does when the heater kicks on. It never turned off. Went out there to look, and the light on the control panel for the pump was lit up. Pushing it kicks it into high speed, and pushing it again puts it back to low speed. It cannot be shut off. Looked at the manual, and it said sometimes the low speed pump will run by itself and you will not be able to turn it of...but for 4 hours? Does anyone know if the filter cycle (I have it set on 2) makes the pump light come on? For what it's worth, I cut the power off at the breaker for about an hour, turned it back on, and it ran fine....for just a few minutes. It did it's self check thing, kicked on, kicked off, and I thought I had it solved. About 1/2 hour later heard it kick on again. Anything that I haven't thought of yet? I think that it's too new to have a circuit board problem, but who knows.
  13. Hi all, I have a fairly new pool pump for my inground pool and a few times when I go to turn on the switch in the electrical box mounted on the wall to turn the pump on, the pump will not start. So i will turn the switch off and try again (this time usually with a stronger push on the switch) and the pump starts. This does not always happen. Also, when my pump is on it does NOT randomly stop and there is not a humming noise. Anyone have any idea what could be wrong? Thanks in advance!!
  14. One of my pumps seized up on my hot tub. I had a replacement pump in my garage. As I was installing it, I found out that the replacement pump has 3 inch plumbing connectors and the old pump has 2.5 inches. The unions are set up for 2.5. Is there a way to build a converter to couple the 2.5 to the 3? I have not found anything online. I would like to avoid buying a pump since I have one already. Thank you
  15. Hi, I've looked all over and can't find any answer touching on this specific problem. When the pool pump turns on in the morning there are bubbles in the pool outlets, but then it primes right away, the pressure builds to about 20-25 psi but then immediately sinks down to 5 psi (within a few seconds). While the pressure falls I get tons of bubbles in the pump strainer and bubbles come out of the outlets in the pool. Then the pump primes again within a minute or two, the pressure gets to 20-25 psi and the process repeats. The o ring on the pump strainer seems fine. I was going to replace it, but while taking it off the other day, water and air squirted everywhere, so that tells me it's holding a good seal. I guess it could still be a problem, what do I know? Also, the area around the pump and tank is bone dry, so no obvious above-ground leaks. A pool company recently replaced the filters. I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. Maybe the tank lid isn't seated correctly or the drain in the filter tank isn't closed all the way? What could cause a pump to lose prime while running? This is an old system on an old pool. My worst fear is that a leaking pipe or connection underground is responsible. I'd really appreciate any advice!
  16. My old Hayward Super II has been leaking for a long time and I decided to do something about it. I watched some videos on You Tube and opened up the pump. I replaced the gaskets and shaft seal and applauded myself when it didn’t leak anymore. Until the next morning when it started up again and there was an even bigger leak. I took it apart and put it back together multiple times, never getting rid of the leak. On my attempt yesterday, it worked for a couple of minutes and then the pump clicked off. I took the pump to a local shop. When they hooked it up to power, it sparked. It turned out that two of the wires to the capacitor were rubbed by the mechanism at the back of the shaft and the protective coating was worn away leaving bare metal. The tech first suggested that I stop working on it and get a variable speed pump (I’m considering it). He said that the capacitors both looked fine and that I could probably tape up the wires (he said he wasn’t allowed to do it) and that the pump should work for a while. I took the pump home, put electrical tape on the bare sections of the wires, and hooked the pump up and nothing happened. Any thoughts? I am not willing to put much money into this--if I have to, I'll go ahead and buy a variable speed. I know all about the rebate from our electric company and the benefits of the variable speed. It's the upfront cost when I've got other bills, like food, mortgage, college tuitions, etc.
  17. Hello all, this is my first post to this forum. Have a bit of a problem. My wife and I have a 2005 Hot Springs Prodigy (Model H) hot tub that has been working great for almost 2 years. Recently I started hearing a clicking noise coming from within the components compartment. At the same time our tub wasn't hot anymore, but only warm. The circulation pump and jets were working fine at that time. I opened the IQ2020 panel and heard the clicking coming from the heater board. I noticed that the white heater wire also was darkened, like it had shorted out and fried the wire & board. I did some testing with a multimeter and found that the black & white leads on the heater board weren't giving any volts. This heater board was the original 73355 board. Finding there was a newer heater board (74618), I ordered that and just received it yesterday. I installed the new board (old board had a burned circuit on backside) and hooked up all the wires as directed by the instructions. This included using the same white wire from the heater that was darkened, but I had cut the old connectors off. I got everything installed and in place, turned on the circ pump breaker and then the heater breaker, but unfortunately there is still a clicking noise... the same as before. The really bad thing now is that where the jets were working before I changed the heater board, now when I turn on the jets there is just a click and now the jets do not come on at all. This circ pump also is not pushing bubbles up. FYI - I did fill the tub before all of this through the ozone standpipe filter to ensure there wouldn't be any airlocks. Also, during all the testing I did not have any filters on. On the main circuit board, the LIM OK light is on and green and the HEATER ON light is also on and red. When I used the multimeter and tested voltage on the new heater board, I'm getting about 130v (where I was getting 0 on old board). When I tested the white and black wires coming from the heater, I am getting a sound from the multimeter. I'm at wits end with this... the heater is a Watkins No Fault. I'm not sure if a bad heater would cause all this, but as I mentioned earlier, the HEATER ON light is on and red, which I think means the tub is getting a good signal from the heater and thinks it's heating, but I could be wrong. Does anyone have any ideas of other things to try? My issues are: 1) the clicking noise when the heater breaker is turned on 2) the circ pump and jets are no longer working (multimeter is not getting any signal when tested on the main circuit board - I'm no genius on how to test circuits/electricity, but I will definitely test anything anyone has ideas on). Thank you for your time in reading this and any help you can provide.
  18. So the low speed jets that circulate the water and gets the water hot was working fine. Then I did test using the test trip to check chemical levels and it was high for ph so used spa down and got that to the ideal level also it was low on bromine it was a pink shade so just one less then the first ideal level so I thought I added the correct amount it said 4 teaspoons to every 200 gallon water and i think mine is 1200 gallons and I actually put in less then that maybe for like 600 gallons since it was close to the ideal level. I waited the 30 minutes I did a test again and it was at the highest level dark purple. So at that point i went and got a bucket and filled it up with water and poured it in there to dilute the water and also turned on the jest to high so it would circualte around more and lower it a little quicker. After that I waited 10 minutes and when back out I noticed the low speed pump was running but no water was circulating on that side. None of them and they valves on the jets are open. I pressed the jet button again and it went to high and still nothing. If I press the option button to turn on the other side jets they come on fine and same with the blow for doing the swimming or laps. I though maybe there was air in the line and i tried all the steps like pressing the pump buttons every 10 seconds. I also tried to bleed it using the bleeder valve it and the union nut too and even removed the filters too. I just never stuck a hose in there like one of things I saw online said. The other steps I did was in my manual and still nothing. During all these processes the display showed HH meaning the heater over heated and the censor kicked it off. I noticed to the night before the walls where the water was touching in the shell felt kind of scummy or ruff but would come off after rubbing it sum. I havent had this water in there for a long time I just got this swim spa used and was working fine and everything and looked in like brand new condition and filled a couple of days prior and was waiting for it to heat up to the correct temp I had only been in it twice before this issue but throughout the day for a total of several hourd to 5 hours for each day. When I first filled it and was heating up I had to use calcium hardness to the swim spa cause it was low and I got that to the ideal level as it matched the color. Did this happen cause I added too much bromine or what could be the problem? What about the ruff feel on the walls. Is that mean there is to much calcium? It shows it at the second shade on the ideal level or What do I need to do to get the water flowing again?
  19. I have an inground indoor pool with Aquaspeed 1.5hp pump. This runs 24/7 and is costing me a fortune, especially as I hardly use the pool. The issue is how long the pump should run for (the pool is covered when not in use). If the answer to this question is anything less than 24/7 then my concern is this: If I put the pump on a timer, then when it goes off, there will be no suction on the inlet pipe (bringing the water towards the pump from the pool), and hence I wonder whether I thus also need an auto closing/opening valve (to go just before the pump) that closes when the pump turns off. In that way, no suction would be lost, and when the pump starts again (and the valve opens) full suction power will remain. Any ideas please anyone? Many thanks Daisy
  20. I have three problems that all happened together concerning my spa equipment. 1) The blower will not start. I suspect it is an electrical problem, as when I turn the switch absolutely nothing happens. I have reset the breaker in the panel board and checked the wiring inside the blower. What seemed odd is that the switch only had a red wire hooked up to it (as well as the green ground). The black was not connected to anything. See picture below. Did something happen internally? 2) My spa pump is will not start. For the past two days, it had been working but at an extremely loud noise, which I suspected was the bearing. Just today, it fails to turn on and only makes a humming noise. After 10 seconds, the humming noise stops (no breaker was tripped). See link to video below. 3) My heater will not turn on. Is this because the pump is not turned on, and no water is flowing through it? Or are they completely independent? I have ensured that power is getting to the panel board next to my equipment, as my pool light works (same panel) as well as another outlet. My equipment is 8 years old. Pump: 2 HP Hayward Bay North Star Blower: Silencer 1HP http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMDEf-qnx0A
  21. Hello, I just purchased a house that comes with a Coast Spa hot tub. I dont know what model, the present owner says it need a new Monster Flow 7HP pump. I am in the GTA (Toronto). Does anybody know of a good place to pick one up? Thanks!
  22. I have an IntelliTouch i9+3 controller, and an Intelliflo VS pump. Since day 1, it turns off the main filter pump after 14 and 1/2 minutes, waits 30 seconds, then restarts the cycle, over and over again. This has occurred with 2 different pumps, so I assume the Intellitouch controller is doing this. Why? Thanks for the help.
  23. I recently moved into a house with a pool and everything was working fine. However, now the pool cleaner moves VERY slow and the pump psi is around 30. I have a Haywrd system with a cartridge. I have pulled out the cartridge and cleaned. When I clean I very thoroughly the system drops to about 18-20 psi but that only lasts about a day then it goes back to 30psi and moving across the pool bottom slowly. What can I do to get this system running properly? I have taken the cartridge to pinch a penny and they said that the cartridges fine and doesn't need to be replaced.
  24. Last year I bought a house with an old inground pool that uses a Hayward Super Pump and a Hayward 270T sand filter. This year, after changing the sand (350 lbs.), I've encountered a problem. When I go to suction the bottom of the pool, the suction on the pump decreases significantly, until there is no water flow whatsoever--there is water in the pump system (because the basket section is full to the lid with water), it's just not moving. After that, I have to switch the pump off and on a couple of times, which starts the water moving again. It appears to me that the problem is with the pump not having enough strength, so that when it's tasked with suction duties, it slows down to a halt. (Note that the motor is still running). Do I need to replace the impeller? Seals? Can anyone make a recommendation? Thanks.
  25. Hey guys, I finally got my Vita Spa Vintage LH hooked up and filled up but have a few problems. First no heat, no heat indicator lights and the high limit switch isnt tripped (checked to see if the lil red button had popped) Secondly, when i flipped the breaker the bubbler kicked in automatically, but the pump for the jets wasnt running. It only runs when I hit the Jet button on the control panel, and the jets arent working. Tried the 3 valves but no luck. My control panel has the old style temp dial with a button for jets,blower,and light. They all have indicator lights at the top. Any ideas?
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