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Found 12 results

  1. Hi, our spa (about 10 year old) with a Spa Builders S class board isn't really heating. We're getting the 3 flashing dots so I thought I had to replace the pressure switch. The catch though is that when it first powers on, it's fine, it's only after it completes a heat cycle that I get the 3 flashing dots (i.e. disconnect spa when the water isn't that hot (i.e. below 100), reconnect spa and the heater works fine but as soon as it hits 100 and it stops heating, then you get the 3 flashing dots. Even once the water temp drops below where it should start heating again, it doesn't. (you also get the same behavior by making the set point up / down). One thing I did notice is that if I simply disconnect one of the leads on the pressure switch and then wait 1 second before reconnecting, the 3 dots will go away and it will work fine until the heater turns off again. I can also reproduce this if I remove the adjustment valve screw and simply push and hold the "plunger" on the pressure switch for 1 second. In case it's not clear, I thought it was the pressure switch so replaced that but that hasn't solved my problem. Any suggestions or is this a sign that something is wrong with the spa pack and I need to replace it. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike
  2. Hello all! I didn't get any responses on my last post so am trying again as I have now troubleshooted a bit further. I have a mid-2000s model Hot Springs Vanguard. Everything is working except I cannot get the heat to rise above 98 degrees, even when set to 104. Here is what has been tried thus far: New circulation pump New GFCI 20 amp breaker installed New heater - Note: I had to jump the pressure switch on the board because the new heater does not have the external cord that runs to the circ board Disconnected Ozonator from Circ board (Line was cut prior to me purchasing the house with said hot tub) No visible damage to circ board - removed and checked for the infamous burns on the back Recently re-wired to match the manual (IE: heater is hooked to the 30amp and pumps hooked to the 20 amp) I mention this because previously, they were reversed. The hot tub would get to temp fine then but would constantly flip the breaker. Once I determined it was wired backwards I switched everything according to the manual. I have tried flipping both the 20 and 30amp breakers on at the same time as well as turning the 20 on first and then the 30 (per the manual). Heat time is much slower now (previously would come to temp from ice cold to 104 in about 8 hours); Now it takes around 24 hours but still will not go past 98 degrees. Any thoughts? ideas? Note that the pressure switch jump worked fine when the wiring was reversed so I am not sure if this is related to this issue or not. I am rural and getting someone out to service is next to impossible! Thank you.
  3. I have a 2007 Hot Spring Prodigy with temp error lights flashing. I replaced the high limit and thermistor, but no help. I jumped the built in pressure switch and everything works fine. Since the replacement heater does not have a pressure switch, is it ok to run the spa with the switch jumped? Bill
  4. I inherited a 1997 Beachcomber Model 550 that is not heating but I wish it did. Here' what I know: -the motor is running normally and the pump is working fine, both are brand new -there are no error codes on the topside controller but the red heating status light does not come on -when powered up the actual temperature reading is 54F now. Was 56F yesterday which I'm assuming means the water temperature sensor is working -the temperature setting on the controller is set at 100F. I am able to raise and lower this setting but nothing changes in terms of operation -heater element resistance is 15 ohms but no 240v at terminals -the heater relay on the circuit board shows 253 ohms but is not closing which explains no 240v at heater element terminals. Manually closing the relay gives 240v at the heater element. Having trouble testing for 120v at relay, not sure how to do this. -with the power off, pressure switch is open. Not able to confirm if the pressure switch is closing when powered up, not sure how to do this either. -removing the pressure switch/high temp sensor connector (4 pin combined connector) from the circuit board before powerup causes a Sn fault -checked the high temperature sensor for continuity, not showing any resistance. I understand Ohms should vary with temperature, ie. higher when colder and my guess this is the cause of the problem. -circuit board looks ok, ie. nothing burnt, no cracks, continuity in several circuits I checked.. Any insight is appreciated not to mention some advice as to where a guy can find parts for older Beachcomber hot tubs. Thank you.
  5. I have an older Sundance spa that came with my vacation home. When visiting this weekend, I found an "FL O" error on the tub and it would not heat. (All other functions, blowers, lights etc work). I took out the circulation pump, it appeared to be stuck and then it freed up. I refitted it but it still did not run. I also tested the pressure sensor and tripped it into closing which started the heat but still no water flow (Stopped that after 5 seconds to avoid any burn-out/over heating etc). I'm pretty certain the circulation pump needs replacing, but I want to check it first but am not sure if it constantly runs or not - If it does then I know I should expect a constant voltage to it whilst the spa is on. Thus, my question is: Should the circulation pump be constantly running even when the spa is not heating? Any advice would be great, thanks
  6. I have ordered a Tecmark 3209 for my 1999 Master Spa LS650 and wanted to know if I need to change the setting on the pressure switch or should it be good to go out of the box? My spa has a 24-hour circulation pump if that makes a difference. Thanks! Jeff
  7. Hello. I think my pressure switch is bad and am going to replace it. On my hot tub the pressure switch is pointed toward the back of the tub and looks inaccessible without being able to remove the heater tube. The tube and control panel are all contained in a plastic liner which makes access difficult. Can anybody offer any suggestions? THanks. Jeff
  8. Hydro Spa Endurance - Water change a few weeks ago and have issues ever since. drained and refilled tub. Started it back up and got FLO message. Removed filter and tried to restart to no avail. After researching, thought is may be an air lock. Have cracked all fitting around heater but still have FLO message on startup. If I turn jets on as soon as I power the spa back up, it will run and heat up to the desired temp. and kick off as normal but when temp. drops a few degrees and spa tries to fire heater again, FLO message will appear and will not heat and jets will not come on even if I hit the button. If I power it off and back on, hit jets button again, it will repeat the above process. Any suggestions? I have photos of the inside plumbing and electrical systems but I'm new here and haven't figured out how to post photos yet.
  9. Hi! Im new to this forum, I just acquired a older model Jacuzzi hot tub. The model is 8780000 ( Caressa). Got a pretty good deal on it since it doesnt leak, and all the side wood is in great condition. Its wired for 115vac 20 amp. I ran a dedicated line (gfci of course) and bonded the tub to code. However when we plugged it in the first time we realized it wasnt heating after 24 hours it didnt warm up not even a degree. After looking up some information I realized it could be the heating element. Below is what I did to replace it Unplugged the tub drained the tub to below jet level loosened the four hose clamps removed the bond bar line from top of the manifold unscrewed the high limit housing from the manifold removed the connection to the element prongs Carefully slid out the thermister for the high level switch I noticed that the old element was welded into the manifold below is how i replaced it Used a band saw and cut the exposed prongs off the manifold Used a grinder to grind the remaining prong flush to the manifold Used a 1/4 drill bit to break the weld around the element I ordered a new element ( its a little shorter 10" vs 16" however what I read it doesnt matter Bored out the 1/4 holes to fit the 1/2 bolts for the new element Verified that the element had o-rings Tightened the nuts to the bolts ( careful not to over torque) Cleaned the Hot wire and the neutral wire from the hot tub panel with a wire brush crimped new connectors to work with the new element Moved the ground ( didnt like the ground to the manifold, bad idea so i moved it to the bond bar) Re installed the manifold and tightened the hose clamps. When I removed the old element , it was obvious to me that it needed replacement ( calcium build up, and rust was all over it, it one area it looked like it burst, maybe at some point it was hot ran? i dont know. After doing all this I was excited we were excited that we were finally going to be able to enjoy our tub ( winters coming) However it didnt ( I let the tub sit for 12 hours in the HTR/Filter mode, its only a 115 20 amp tub so i figured it would heat 1-2°F per hour but yeah it didnt) . Below are all the steps I did so far Made sure high temp switch isnt open Checked voltage to the new element ( 120v each) checked relays all seem to be working, each read positive off the ground and the magnetic coils seem to be in good shape Replaced the Filter The jets work, and the HTR/Filter button does move water around so my circulating pump works The turn dial thermostat initiates the the relays to turn the tub, and the heater on indicating light works Is there something I missed? I consider my self more than the average do it yourself kinda guy. My background is mechanical engineering so that's why I was so excited to get this older SCM tub. if anyone can help me troubleshoot please feel free! I want it to get up and running before winter. There isnt much online for troubleshooting these tubs. thanks!
  10. So my Jandy Heater has the Shorted H20 Sensor fault - does this mean the pressure switch has gone bad? Is this easy to replace? Jandy LRZ 400ep Thanks!
  11. We have a Laars LT 400 pool heater with a flashing pressure switch. The heater does not fire up. It seems we may need to replace the pressure switch? Where is it located in the heater? The diagram is confusing to say the least.
  12. Ok a little back story. Heated the spa about 2 weeks ago. Everything worked fine and the spa heated nicely. Then last weekend put the filter pump on and the pool heater and left to do some things. When i got back home the pool wasnt warm. Go to the heater and the service AGS light is on. Turn it off to try again. Runs about 3 times and then service AGS light comes on again. I can smell gas when it comes on and starts blowing air through the vent so i know its getting gas. So i switch to spa and see if that will heat. But instead of service AGS light coming on, I'm getting the pressure switch light flashing and the heater wont kick on. Anybody have ideas? I want to try and do this myself because I can't really afford to have a technician do it. Ive done some searching but because i dont know what's what I'm not really sure what im suppose to be checking. Here's some pictures of my setup for reference and maybe you can tell me what i should check and where it is in the pictures.
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