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Found 16 results

  1. I have been reading on this forum a lot about hot tubs that have ozone consume more free chlorine. From what I have read, it looks like ozone reacts with hypochlorite to produce mostly oxygen and chloride but in a side reaction it also produces chlorate, an oxidized form of hypochlorite. My question is about the fate of chlorate. Does it just build up in the tub or does it go on to oxidize organic matter?
  2. Greetings: I have a small, 210 gallon hot tub with ozone on the way, so I need to figure out sanitization. It would seem that “Nitro’s Approach to Water Maintenance” remains the Gold Standard here, even though it was written 11 years ago. If you spend any time at all searching for best spa sanitizer systems, you’ll come across a plethora of more recent advancements such as salt water systems, mineral systems, enzyme systems, etc. that all claim to be less work and provide much better water while using less chemicals than Nitros’s method. Does this still remain the Gold Standard? For example, one thing Nitro doesn’t mention is how an ozone system might impact water balance and sanitation. Ozone systems seem to have also recently become something of a Gold Standard as well, so if you have an ozone system in your spa, does it mean you should adjust the parameters Nitro suggests, and if so, which ones, which direction, and by how much? Or perhaps is ozone simply another marketing thing like salt water, mineral filters, enzyme systems, etc.? My gut tells me that Nitro’s method is correct even 11 years later and was also pretty much the standard 10 years prior to Nitro publishing it. My gut also tells me you need chlorine to get rid of organics (I sweat so much) and that ozone will support that but is much better against pathogens, flora, and fauna. Please help educate this ignorant hillbilly prior to his tub arriving.
  3. Hi, First off let me give you the specs and current water parameters. Clearwater 475 gal. With ozone & uv. 98° Typical user load is 4-5 days per week, 2 people, 1 hr. This is the first water fill and it has been running for approximately 3 months. Using Taylor K-2006 test kit Currently using a mineral stick in filter 1. I've been using 6% liquid bleach since my cya hit approx 35ppm. Ph6.8 CH 180 TA 60 FC 6 TC 1 I have had my TA @ 120+ for a while and have constantly Fought with pH rising to and above 8.0. Finally decided to read nitros bleach method and look up the acronyms that I did not know. Using muratic acid( lots of it) I have brought my TA down to the point where the PH settled at 6.8 . Boric acid is showing up tomorrow and I'll be adding 32oz (weight) to get a 50ppm boric load for buffering the low TA. I keep reading different things about mineral sticks, whether or not to use them and why. There seems to be a caveat to every situation. How long I can run the water before needing to drain and fill it? What are the indicators that I need to look for when it comes to water change? Water prices in my city are absolutely insane, so I'd love to limit water usage as much as possible. My CD has been insane, but my parameters have been all over the place so I'm not sure if it's the ozone or something else entirely. I've been adding around 3/4 cup of bleach after our nightly soak.By the next evening it's down to .5 ppm or less. Also, how often do I want to shock? I have non chlorine shock,or bleach available.. I really appreciate your time! -ToyCruiser
  4. Apologies if this post is contrary to forum rules...please tell me if it needs to be removed. In 2015 I moved in with my girlfriend, now wife. She has a 1997 Hot Springs Prodigy spa. Her maintenance routine was to toss some chlorine into the water "when it needed it." She changed the water when it got gross. She had no test kits. About this time we replaced the soggy floppy cover with a solid cover like these from TheCoverGuy. In February 2017, the recirculation motor failed so I replaced it with this one. The spa had an ancient UV ozonizer installed, which I replaced with a Del Ozone Eclipse CD generator. We had no chemicals left in the bin, so no chemicals were added. I wiped down the spa with a Scotchbrite sponge, rinsed a couple of times, cleaned the filter with a filter cleaning comb, then started the spa back up. Over time we noticed some things: No smell, except ozone No color or cloudiness in the water No crystals or sandy sediment on the bottom of the spa No slime on the spa surface or water Again, since my wife's philosophy was "throw some chlorine in when it needs it," we went 13 months without chemical treatment. Then in March 2018 the ozone generator failed-we could tell because the ozone smell went away. Within days the water turned yellowish. So I drained the water into the garden (no chemicals), repeated the cleaning routine, and replaced the ozone generator with the same model. I also did some research and got some advice that I should be testing the water and adding bromine...you know the drill. I came away from that discussion planning to buy a test kit and some chemicals. But my wife said, "If it ain't broke..." so nothing changed. A couple of weeks ago (July 2019) the ozone smell went away-the ozone generator lasted 16 months this time. So I replaced the ozone generator with the same model, changed the water, rinsed and scrubbed. Talking about it now, we realize that there have been no water changes except those when the ozone generator failed. The bottom line: In 2.5 years, we have changed the water and replaced the ozone generator twice. No chemicals added (except the chloramines in the original city tap water, until that dissipated). No tests except using our noses to confirm the ozone is working. What's happening? Please note that we did not "design" this system, it was created by happenstance. The solid cover creates a moderately airtight system. The water condensing on the vinyl cover seals most of the air gaps, so air can only penetrate under pressure. The ozone is injected under pressure by the filter pump which runs 24/7/365. My wife believes the new pump is pumping more water than the original, but this is hard to confirm. Unlike older UV ozone generators, newer CD ozone generators actually create enough ozone to sanitize the water and air above the water. I learned this as an aquarium guy. The ozone bubbles fill the air gap between the water surface and the cover, displacing oxygen and CO2. The ozone also saturates the water. This kills everything in the water and the air gap. The exception is less than one hour per day when the spa is in use. Other lucky reasons: We use the spa 10-20 person-minutes per day during the summer, and 30-90 person-minutes per day during the winter. This is probably "light usage." (My wife told me I underestimated winter usage in past posts.) No kids, just two adults. If we used it more, we could just change the water every 6 months instead of waiting for the ozone generator to fail at 12-16 months. We do not wear clothes into the spa, so no detergents. Also no lotions, perfumes, etc. We are fairly clean folks. I skim out leaves and debris whenever we see them. The spa is under trees and collects plant matter on the bottom. The former owners were reported to be heavy handed with the chemicals, so the plumbing is probably not filled with gunk. I did not see gunk when I replaced the filter pump, but there's a lot of hidden plumbing. This is a guess. Our water here in Northern California is alkaline and hard. I don't know what impact that has. Summary: We lucked into this "closed saturated ozone system." But 2.5 years of history now proves to us that this system works for us. Total cost is $100 every year or so for a new ozone generator. We're pretty happy.
  5. Hey folks. I'm new to the forum, but not new to portable spas. I've got a 2003 Hawkeye spa that just had its first major failure. One of the heater relays failed in dramatic fashion. See attached photo. Anyhow, the board is pretty much toast and 14 years is a good run. It's a Gecko controller (model 0202-205108) and Gecko and many web vendors show 0202-205212 as a drop-in replacement. Not so in my case. I tried one and first of all it is designed to run the ozone any time the pump is on low speed. That's fine for the filter cycle and while heating, but to have the thing pumping out ozone while someone is in the spa running the pump on low seems unhealthy. BTW, there is no circulation pump. I run the filter cycle for 3 hours every 12. My old controller had a relay for the ozone circuit and it would turn the ozone off if the pump or light buttons were pushed. I was willing to live with a little extra ozone exposure, but here's the rub. If you have a 240V set-up and the pump is wired for 240V but the ozone is 120V, the new Gecko 0202-205212 would back-feed power to the ozone through the low-speed pump circuit any time power was on the system. In other words, the ozone generator was on CONTINUOUSLY. Not good. The response from Gecko tech support was "what do you want ozone for anyway?" They basically seem to have designed all the currently available S-class controllers with no regard to the use of ozone. I could have bought a 240V ozone generator, but the 120V UV unit I have now is fairly new and working fine. Does anyone offer a good controller that has a logic control and relay for the ozone generator? Gecko does not seem to. So I guess I'm looking for a controller/topside bundle now. The topside is a Gecko TSC-19. Do any other brands work with that topside control? Thanks for any advise you can offer.
  6. We're in the market for a Spa. Admittedly I didn't know much about them before we started taking trips to various retailers around the area, and since then I've started doing a lot more research. At the moment, we're leaning towards the Arctic Spas "Cub", a 7x7 spa meant for 5 adults. https://www.arcticspas.ca/arctic-spas/arctic-cub/ I like the layout, a "captains" chair, a nice lounger, and plenty of additional space for a few friends. Doing a bit of research on various spa companies, it seems like for every "Company X is the greatest, excellent customer service, etc" there are two or three "never buy a spa from company X!". So my dilemma, I don't know what to believe. I realize that the dealer who sells you the spa is a significant factor in making your overall experience a great one or a nightmare. Outside of the "good dealer/bad dealer" factor, I'd love to hear honest experiences with the "Cub" spa, Arctic Spas in general, and perhaps alternative comparables if Arctic is a "no no" for you. I also have some more specific questions about the spa features, I'll just list them in point form but would love to hear peoples opinions/answers to any/all of them, much appreciated! Between the "Prestige", "Signature" and "Legend", is there any difference between them outside the number of jets and pumps? The dealer lead me to believe that the "legend" automatically came with additional features such as the "Family" lighting system, and even other "optional" features such as EcoPack Spa controls, OnSpa, and No Maintenance Cabinets. I didn't see anything about this in the literature, and on the quote they wrote "family lighting"... is that something they're just throwing in hoping we'd upgrade to the more expensive model, or does each of the above really include additional features above the lower model? EcoPack, OnSpa, Spa Boy. Are any/all of these worth it? What about the Onzen Salt Water system? I've read mixed things about salt water systems corroding things faster, not being any less maintenance than water+bromine, etc What about Peak 1, Peak 2 Ozones? I've read mixed things about ozone systems being worth it in general $11,500 for the cub legend (pre tax, but delivery included) good deal, bad deal, fair price? Again, greatly appreciate any and all feedback, opinions and experiences. Of course I will also be returning to the dealership to ask some of these questions directly, but this is a big purchase so want to cover all my bases.
  7. My wife and I owned a D1 Aurora spa for 15 years. Early on, we discovered that she had skin sensititvity issue with most sanitizer systems. I couldn't use the D1 vision (silver ion) system, chlorine, or Bromine without her getting a severe itchy skin rash. I found that I could use Baqua Spa without ussue, and I used it for several years, but it was a pain in the butt, and caused other issues. About 8-9 years ago, I tried Pristine Blue (copper sanitizer system) and it was the answer to all my problems. I could maintain crystal clear water without using any chlorine (I used only the monopersulfate shock ans pristine Blue). The D1 had a 24 hour 10 GPM circulation pump and UV type ozonator that ran 24/7 (it didn't shut off when the tub was in use). About two years ago, I started having water clarity issues and found out the UV bulb in the ozone generator had failed. I replaced the bulb and the water cleared up immediately. Fast forward .. The D1 developed a leak that could not be repaired, so we decided it was time to buy a new spa. There is no D1 dealer near us, so we shopped around and bought a Bullfrog Spa about two months ago. The Bullfrog is eqipped with a programmable 35 GPM circ pump and plasma discharge ozone generator. I have set the circ pump to run 24 hours per day, but it only runs about 18 hours per day (probably due to the fact that it is a 35 GPM pump and overheats the water). My issue is that I can't seem to keep the water clear. It reminds me of the D1 with a bad ozone generator. I have to use large doses of chlorine shock several times a week, and monopersulfate shock every day. My wife can't get in the tub for 24 hours after a dose of chlorine shock, and she now takes a shower after every hot tub use (she still has small outbreaks sometimes, despite the precautions). It still often goes from clear to cloudy overnight, and tends to foam a lot as though there are soaps / detergents in the water. We wash all swim suits in the washing machine without detergent to prevent soap in the spa, so that shouldn't be a problem. We are becoming frustrated and begining to wonder if we made a bad decision. We were happy with the D1, maybe we should have bought another one instead of the Bullfrog. The only difference I can see is the circ pump / ozone system design: The D1 has a system whereby the ozone is mixed with the water in a seperate chamber and fully consumed before the water is re-introdued into the tub so that the ozone can run even when the tub is occupied. The D1 used a UV ozone generator and the Bullfrog uses a plasma discharge generator from Del Ozone The D1 had a 10 GPM pump that never shut off. Has anyone else experienced similar issues? Is the UV generator better? I never smell ozone, even when the generator and pump are running, is it possible that the generator is not working? Any help would be appreciated.
  8. We just recently bought a 440 gallon Divine hot tub with 24 hour circulation pump and Del Ozonator. I really like the simplicity of chlorine and good experience with my pool swg so I decided to purchase a ControlOMatic ChlorMaker DO. I have recently learned how ozonators will oxidize the chlorine along with everything else, I just haven't been able to find the rate at which it will oxidize the chlorine. As far as bather load we will prob use it at least every night or every other night (1-3 bathers). I have also read that the ozone can break down a spa cover faster, is this true? How much faster? Is this reason enough to unplug the ozonator?
  9. Edit: Oh, duh! After posting and seeing my post title, it dawned on me what my other question was! I'll save that for another post. I've asked the mods to change the title of this thread. In short, I believe the Ozone system in my tub is disconnected. Perhaps that will have an effect on the post below? Thank you for this forum! I've already learned so much. I have a Taylor K-2006 and a bag of boric acid due for delivery Monday (working toward dichlor-bleach, eventually). I'm 3rd owner of a 2008 Arctic Spas Frontier Legend without much insight as to its care before me. I've had it running for ~3 weeks. It's taken an extensive amount of mental/physical labor but it is now up and running great (electrical, leaks, heating, etc). We had an itch developing but, I believe, it was attributed to letting the FCl slip over the holiday weekend - during which we used it excessively - and having a TA reading of 170. There were often times I would get blank FCl readings on strips. I've been tending to it laboriously over the last couple of days and I think I have it corrected. Based on the test strips, I would say TA is ~80 and pH is 7.2. I'm trying to bring the pH up by aerating at the moment. I've cycled through at least four 20 minute aeration sessions with only slight change. Is it safe to use pH up at this point? I have a couple of other questions. First, if, come Monday, my CYA levels are appropriate (20-30 ppm) is there anything preventing me from dropping TA closer to 50, adding 50ppm borates, and moving to Bleach? I suspect the levels of CYA are not going to be ideal considering I've used nothing but CL / MPS over the last 3 weeks. Next, the owners prior provided a SunPurity mineral cartridge which is currently in the filter basket. There isn't much left inside of it. I purchased a new one which actually contains contents! Should I install it? If so, I need some clarity as to how I maintain the tub: do I add MPS before and/or after use (they said 0.5 oz per person) and then check FCl, or vice versa, or just one or the other? I've been told, if properly monitored, CL is only necessary ~1-2 times / week. Confused...? There was one other question but I can't recall what it was. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for all of the great knowledge
  10. I have a 2006 Hot Springs Vista (same as a Grandee with different seat layout). I need to replace the original Freshwater III ozone generator. I intend to replace everything associated with it at the same time, such as the tubing, check valve and injector. I would like to buy the replacement parts online before I open the panel, but, I need to know if I need a 120 volt unit or a 240 volt unit and what kind of plug or connection on the end of the cord. The spa is 240 volt, but, that doesn't necessarily mean the ozone generator is 240, although, I suspect it to be. Another question is, is there any real difference between the various brands of corona discharge ozone generators? The Freshwater III is $272 everywhere while units such as the Del 50MCD go for around $99. If the Freshwater is worth almost three times the price, I will pay it, if not, I will buy the Del or another brand. Thank you for any help. Allan
  11. Hi, I've taken on looking after a friends pool. It's in-ground, lined, 25000L, Ozone system + chlorine tablets (trichlor) - about 2 year old. Location, Adelaide, Australia. Went to see a guy at the local pool shop today and he is skeptical of the ozone system and says I should just ignore it and do the more traditional method of a daily cup of powder and trickle feed with the tablets. He seems to think the chlorine levels will not be adequate, especially through a long hot Aussie summer. The ozone system was originally purchased in the hope of using less chlorine = better on the skin and eyes etc. As I'm taking over maintaining the pool, my question is: How do I know if the ozone+chlorine tablets are providing the right amount of chlorine? I have the paper indicators to test, but, are these the right way to test the overall chlorine levels for this type of system? and... Do I need to use stabilizer? What effect does it perform? How do I know if i have the right level? Appreciated, Brett.
  12. I have a breand new Arctic ocean swim spa & while I'm happy with it so far, I am not happy with how much $ it may cost me to keep it balanced. I have the saltwater/ozone option but I've been told to shock it after every use (which is daily for one person). Since it is 1600 gallons, it needs 10-14 oz each day, which is about $4/day or $120/mo, which I wasn't counting on. That's the price from my dealer's brand (Apollo) and all it says on the bottle is "contains Potassium Monopersulfate". I've found better deals elsewhere, but I can't tell if they have the same formula. One says 43% PPMS...does anyone know if that will work? Appreciate any guidance...1st time spa owner.
  13. HI. We need your opinions & advice please. First, I'll say that this is a much shorter version of my first more detailed post which explains why & who will be using our spa/hot tub. (see here:http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=45231 We had narrowed our large pool of spas down to 3, but were only able to wet test 2, which we did this past weekend. They were the Caldera Makena & the Vitaspa Envie. My husband wants the Caldera because he likes the lounger better & felt there was more control over each seat, & I want the Vitaspa because I was disappointed when I was in the Caldera Makena because it didn't give me a therapeutic massage. I was very impressed when I was in the Envie with how great and massage like the jets were (even my husband & son agreed) I also didn't float out of the lounger like I did with the Caldera Makena. They also felt the Envie was bigger, which it is, and with my family being 6'4 and 6'6, I'm not sure why they prefer the Makena. Both have excellent warranty & great service which is how we narrowed it down to these 2, so it's not really a factor. Both salesman have gone over & above in trying to please us with big discounts. Caldera Makena: http://www.calderaspas.com/en/shop/paradise/makena/ $8200 with tax ($10000 regular price). Dealer is throwing in their best cover & cover lifter, steps, ozone & 3 Hotsprings robes. Comes with spa frog bromine system & outdoor panel. Has 46 jets, & 3 pumps, including circ pump. Pumps are only 2 hp. Has lounger and volcano foot jet. Also colored lights and fountain & lighted handle. It has speakers but no stereo installed. Not much of a cool down seat. Even though smaller than the Vitaspa envie it did feel deep enough, but then again there was so much water in there it was overflowing on the floor. I am willing to wet test it again tomorrow to see if I can get the jets to have a better massage. I'm not a hot tub person because of the heat, but I was looking forward to using it for the massage aspect. Vitaspa Envie: http://vitaspa.com/2011/05/envie/ $8500 with tax ($8300 regular price) Owner also giving us steps & cover lifter & gave us a big discount on ozone & UV. Doesn't come with outdoor panel, so that would be extra, but gives cost on it & the wire. Crown has great warranty & service too. I just like the Envie better. It has steps & a cool down seat, & a very comfy lounger. It has only 2 pumps though, but they are 3 hp. It has 54 jets - 8 more than the Makena, & gave a great massage. We can also change out the jets if we like. Has colored cupholders & a fountain & the color & cabinet is more to our liking. The dealer suggests we use Enzymes with our spa. My husband says the control for strength of jets only controlled one side of the tub at a time, which is why he likes the Makena better. Sooo, I told my husband the spa is really for him & he should choose, but then he chose the Makena, & I guess I was disappointed because I didn't enjoy being in it. Which means I probably won't use it much. It's wrong for me to try & change his mind though since I told him it was his choice. Saturday after wet testing the Envie, he couldn't make up his mind, & I told him & still feel that we should try the Makena again. Maybe I'll change my mind, or it will solidify his decision. So, what does everyone think. Spafrog bromine & ozone & circ pump, vs UV & ozone. I have folliculitis, psoriasis, and sometimes get rashes to chemicals in hygiene products, so I liked the idea of the uv & ozone to kill bacteria and maybe help with skin conditions. Spa frog means always buying bromine & mineral cartridges, whereas uv means a $100 light once a year. Does the circ pump make a big difference? One last thing; a tiebreaker could be the Alps Olympus spa, but the dealer who is new & selling out of her home says we can't wet test it. We can sit in it though. Here's its info: Alps spa Olympus model: http://www.jetsensationhottubs.com/#!olympus/cpyc $8300 with tax, price on website $7995. The warranty on it is ok, but not as good as the others. This tub is larger and deeper, & has ozone included (their standard) and 2 6hp pumps (breakpower I'm guessing). It has 3 pumps (circ of course), full lighting package including cup holders. lighted hand rail (like the Makena) and even a stereo system. Comes with a cover lifter & breaker panel & she would give us a deal on ionizer & steps. This one has 2 loungers though, so I don't know if we'll like it, or if the lounger is long enough (looking at the pic, the end of the lounger looks short & part of the tub space looks unusable at end of first lounger. With 72 stainless steel jets, I would hope they would give a good massage. The problem is these are in her back yard, (new & packaged though) and she hasn't opened an actual store or warehouse yet, so we're concerned about warranty in the future. She said Alps would still take care of us if she stopped selling them. I'm hoping she changes her mind & lets us wet test it. Well, sorry it wasn't as short as I thought it would be. I've just lived and breathed this forum & anything to do with hot tubs & spas for the past few weeks. I have barely gotten any sleep & I just want it to be over & the decision made & the hot tub on its way. I should add, all of these hot tubs are available to get right away, since we're taking the floor model. Only the Caldera Makena has been on the floor with water in it. The dealer added water to the Envie just for us to test. (He also installed ozone & uv just for us, so I'd feel really bad if we don't choose it) Thanks for your help, advice, & opinions. Cheers.
  14. Hot Springs Sovereign; I think we got it around 2000. S/N is IQ2A2015; it has the IQ2000 controls, and is wired for 220. Two GFCI breakers- a 20A that runs the controls and circulation pump, and a 50A for the heaters and main pump. After a brief power outage two days ago, every time I reset the smaller, 20A breaker, it instantly trips. I replaced the breaker but problem continues. After the power outage, water backed up into the Ozone unit. I've disconnected the Ozone electrically but no change in behavior. I removed the metal bracket that obstructs the main board, didn't see any obvious burn spots or other indications. While the bracket was off, I tried applying power and got a steady red light. I powered off to avoid the shocking hazard while replacing the bracket, and now it instantly trips the breaker again. I've also tried powering up without the thermistors attached, but no change. They measure 11.61 and 12.64; water may still be slightly warm. Any clues? At first it was just the red blinking light syndrome; now it won't come on at all, and instantly trips the 20A breaker (the control panel light flashes briefly until the breaker trips.) Thanks- Paul
  15. Anyone have experience with this product? Will it work with Ozone? and Clearray? Thanks.
  16. Hello, I'm close to pulling the trigger on a J495 but I have a few questions that could help me negotiating with the dealer. 1. Can Ozone and Clearray co-exist? Any advantages? (will it reduce my chemicals and the smell associated with them?) 2. Anyone know what the dealer cost of these dealer options: Cover Cover lifter Ozone Smartseal (does it really save 25% electricity and worth the money) Prolites corner cabinetry lighting 3. Is it too much to ask for the dealer to include these in with the spa? (not asking for stereo or steps) Thanks
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