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Found 19 results

  1. Hi guys, before I shell out a lot of money on a new pump that may not fix my problem, I was hoping to get some advice. Originally I had a C-5 Spa controller that kept tripping my 40 amp breaker. I had an error code for the temperature sensor. I unplugged everything except the power, and it stayed on, but when I added the temperature sensor back, it clicked off. This made me think it was the temperature sensor and I replaced two of them but this didn’t fix the problem or the error. I eventually got fed up and bought a new controller, a Gecko YE5. I fired everything up and it seemed to work great with all jets blazing, but I got a FLO error that won’t go away and it won’t heat. I tried removing the filters opening all the jets and bleeding the unions in case it was an airlock, but the FLO error always comes back after a few minutes. The only thing I notice is that pump 2 has kind of a loud hum and leaks a little no matter how much I tighten it. I read that a pump can actually trip the breaker and I wonder if this pump is my problem all along. I’m also wondering if it’s possible my pump has a voltage mismatch given the instructions said I might need to change the wires, but I thought this wasn’t possible given the Jets are working fine. I’m also wondering if it is even possible the pump is the problem because the jets are working. I’ll add video tomorrow. Any advice appreciated. Update from original post: I switched the pumps at the control box so pump 1 is now pump 2. I did this because I suspected the original pump 2 was bad. This is also the one connected directly to the controller while the other pump is indirect. Interesting thing is now the new pump one will not run on low speed. I am going to pull out this pump and check the wiring because the manual said I may need to switch the wire from what I had. Yep I checked the manual and red is supposed to be high speed. You can see in my video that I have black and red switched. I think this is the problem. I have no idea how it was running but I will update if this fixes it. Update: Ok, I drained the hot tub because the valves don’t stop all the water from coming out. I then switched the red and black wires at the pump using the new cables that came with the Gecko and refilled the tub. Think that fixed it. Hot tub started heating right away with no flo errors after several hours. Hope this helped somebody. FullSizeRender.MOV
  2. Hello all! First time poster but long time follower. Recently had a power outage and when power resumed, I noticed my hot tub started dropping temp even though all signs pointed to go. Turns put relay board was fried..not sure if it was a coincidence but regardless I replaced it (IQ2020) and hooked everything up exactly the same (minus the obvious changes in the new 2 relay board vs the old 3). D9 flashes repeatedly. Figured new board was bad (my luck) so replaced again..same thing. The only way I can get D9 to stop flashing is taking off the jumped pressure switch (replaced heater a few years ago and had to be jumped permanently due to new model). Obviously now I'm getting the flashing red and green lights on the display because I took the pressure jump off. Question is..could my jump be "bad"? I ordered an actual replacement jump (as opposed to the current crossed wires and tape method) but I'm not even sure that will fix the problem because I can't find anything on the WWW about bad jumps, just bad pressure switches in general. Thanks in advance for any advice!
  3. I just picked up a 1998 Dakota Skyler with a 4kW heater controlled by a Balboa LiteLD CCAJ board. The heater wasnt working, was corroded... I replaced it with a new 4W coil. Still no heat. Temp probe is good, pressure sensor is good. I'm wired on 240V. Pump works on both speeds. Supply AC is correct. Heater measures 120VAC above ground on BOTH sides when call for heat is on (heat light on panel on). Both sides of heating coil are 120 V above ground, 240 V above black, and 0V above red. Thus 0V across the heater coil and no heat. So both sides of the coil are electrically connected to red and no voltage difference across them. I pulled the board out. It has 5 relays. The coils on 4 of them measure about 260 Ohms each, and one shows no continuity. Thus I presume a bad relay (th ed relay that connects to one side of the heater coil). The contactors on the relays work fine, as each tested well with a meter. I reinstalled the board and manually tripped the relay that I suspect is dead. However that did not change the voltage readings across the heater as I hoped it would. I've ordered a couple new relays. But I could use some advice!! What can anyone recommend? It would be much better with heat!! Thanks much!! Eric
  4. Hi, our spa (about 10 year old) with a Spa Builders S class board isn't really heating. We're getting the 3 flashing dots so I thought I had to replace the pressure switch. The catch though is that when it first powers on, it's fine, it's only after it completes a heat cycle that I get the 3 flashing dots (i.e. disconnect spa when the water isn't that hot (i.e. below 100), reconnect spa and the heater works fine but as soon as it hits 100 and it stops heating, then you get the 3 flashing dots. Even once the water temp drops below where it should start heating again, it doesn't. (you also get the same behavior by making the set point up / down). One thing I did notice is that if I simply disconnect one of the leads on the pressure switch and then wait 1 second before reconnecting, the 3 dots will go away and it will work fine until the heater turns off again. I can also reproduce this if I remove the adjustment valve screw and simply push and hold the "plunger" on the pressure switch for 1 second. In case it's not clear, I thought it was the pressure switch so replaced that but that hasn't solved my problem. Any suggestions or is this a sign that something is wrong with the spa pack and I need to replace it. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike
  5. Getting a low flow error on my 2015 Premium Leisure Spa Model 1408 with a Waterway Neo 2100 pack. Will not heat. Steps to replicate error: 1. Turn breaker on. Spa enters priming mode. 2. Hit jets 1 button, let run for 15 seconds. Confirmed good flow. 3. Hit jets 2 button, let run for 15 seconds. Confirmed higher good flow. 4. Heater enters preheat mode for a few minutes (indicated by 1 wavy heat line on topside) 4. Heater enters heat mode and immediately gives low flow error. Relays click off. Hit return, low flow error again. (See youtube video - What I've done to try to resolve issue: 1. Replaced both flow and temperature sensors (no pressure switch) 2. Taken out filter and ran. Replaced with new filter and ran. Ran pump 1 on high. 3. Verified all T gates open. 4. Verified all suction ports clean and clear. 5. Verified all jets are on with good flow. 6. Checked for airlocks. 7. Tried flipping sensors on board. 8. Removed pump and checked impeller and shaft to not be broken or obstructed. 9. Removed heater to check for clog. 10. Cleaned heater connections. 11. Checked resistance of heater when disconnected. Registers 15 ohms. 12. Waterfall jets had a little bit of debris in them, cleaned and replaced with no change in results. The only thing I haven't checked is voltage.... but assumed voltage was good or pumps wouldn't be running.
  6. Hello; I have a older Tiger River Bengal model M that will not heat. I bought 2nd hand. I have replaced the heater, circ pump and heater relay board. I have thoroughly cleaned the filter as well as removed possible air locks. The heater is a no fault 6KW so there is no pressure switch (fuse in panel). When I take control panel cover off, htr on is lit red, and lim light is green. There was an ozonator that was installed, but currently not hooked up. I have water flowing into spa as I can see the water moving, however there are no bubbles. If I disconnect hose from circ pump and plug circ pump with my thumb to pressurize, when I reconnect I will get bubbles for 1-2 seconds. Not sure what additional steps to take?
  7. I have a 2003 Hot Spring Tiger River Bengal which won't heat. I replaced both thermistors but if I have the main (4 pin) thermistor lead connected to the main board it trips the system (not the power feed ground leakage) and flashes the red light on control panel. If I disconnect this sensor then main pump and lights work fine, the temperature display works and the (green) ready light on the control board is lit. No heat to pool and ozone system seems to be inoperative. Any clues, please ? I'm about to test heater voltage when rain stops (!) What should I expect to see, please ?
  8. I recently received a used 2001 Hot Springs Prodigy. It is not heating. I replaced the heater with the new style No-Fault Titanium 6k and the heater relay board. The Power and Heat On lights are on at the control board. The circulation pump is working, as well as all of the jets. I have set the heater to 100 degrees on the control panel. What else could be causing it not to heat?
  9. Heya! Heat stopped working on Sun dance Spa from '95, popped open the board to find some melted wires/board. Had been using it for the past 6 months no problem, a few GFCI trips that had no explanation. Breaker panel at house is good so I assume when I hooked it up I didnt tighten the nuts/screws enough and with enough use they became loose and arcing occurred? I have been checking and this is about as much information I can make a guess out of, any ideas on what went wrong and how to prevent in future if i replace the board? two pics here, looks like hot coming in was melted and hot going out in addition to the bar above it https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_ufuQrYu9zISTIyTkYydXBMbXVsREJJelVmZzFONlljazB3 https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_ufuQrYu9zIOFRUNVk1ZlFrVzV4SEhrVkRMa2x3N1l0N29Z Thanks
  10. I've tried everything here. Topside panel heat light is on. Replaced blower, pump, pressure switch and heating element over the winter. Spa wouldn't heat, had board checked out and a relay was bad. Replaced relay, still no voltage at heater. There is voltage coming into board, blower and pump both work. What could be causing the heater not to get voltage? Thanks in advance. Great Lakes spa, Balboa 410e circuit board.
  11. Recently purchased this hot tub new from my local dealer. I've contacted them about this and am awaiting a response, but in the mean time I thought I'd check here too. My hot tub will not heat when the jets are on. It's a 220 and it specifically says in the manual that it is supposed to heat when the jets are on if hooked up in this way. Is this a motor/heater issue or is it an issue of the hot tub not being hooked up correctly by the electrician?
  12. Ok....I have a 2004 Hot Springs Prodigy Spa. We used it one night, everything worked fine. The next day, it was cold. I took the heater board relay off and it was scorched. I replaced it. Now, I have no heat still. No blinking lights except on the new board (D9 LED but the parts supply store said as long as the green light is on next to it, ignore the blinking red light), tested the heaters ohms (10.3ohms), have power to everything except the red wire from the main board that jumpers over to the heater relay board.... The only thing I haven't changed is the circulation pump, which is working, and the thermistors...I'm at a loss.....
  13. I have a 2002 Sovereign that is driving me NUTS. I replace the heater control board last year after it burst into flames. The tub worked flawlessly all winter (and a COLD winter at that.). This summer I read about summer mode and activated it, tub didn't get used all that much. I did notice the temp was low one day and de-activated summer mode. No heat and found the heater reset tripped. Reset and everything was fine for a few days. Then no heat again, reset was tripped. Pulled and cleaned filters. Tested heater resistance (10 ohms). Checked connections and restarted. Made it 1 week, them BAM, no heat. Heater reset again. I have determined it doesnt matter if the tub is used a lot or not. Damn reset keeps tripping. Am I needing just to bite the bullet and replace the heater? Thanks in advance. Dan
  14. Hello, My tub flashes flo. It will not heat or circulate. I shut off the power for several hours to reset.I changed the filter. All three pumps work and I did the air bleed trick from the top massage valves opposite of the filter side. I also tapped on the flo valve and it seems to circulate ok when the pumps are running. Should the bleed trick be done several times? Water will not flow from within the system even with the waterfall valve open. Emergency heat will not come on even though the water temp is 30 degrees below the set temp. Also when I tap the button for pumps 2 and 3 when every pump and bubble maker is on all the pumps shut off. I am thinking circulating pump? or perhaps heater too? Are there any large fuses to check? Any suggestions will help. Thank you in advance. Sara
  15. Hello, First time poster and newbie to spas. I inherited a 96 hot springs jetsetter with the purchase of my house. Physically appears to be in shape but it will not heat. So far I have replaced the circulation pump, removed the heater to check for obstructions, and replaced some of the pvc hose that appeared brittle. The pump is running fine but the spa is not heating. Before I call a tech out to the house ($115 service call) does anyone have some ideas i could try? I'm fairly handy and have an have tools to do most jobs. Thank you in advance for your constructive advice.
  16. I have a Tiger River Spa, Bengal Model M that won't heat. The red heater LED light inside the IQ2020 panel is on constant. After reading some forums, I tried the following which did not fix the issue: removed the filter, disconnected the power for 10 minutes, pressed the reset switch on the no fault 6000 heater, ran the circulation pump for 10 minutes. I turned off the power, disconnected the wires from leads going to the heater, and tested the OHM reading...it read 9.6 ohms. I turned the power back on (with the heater wires disconnected) and tested for voltage reading on the leads..read 0 volts. I tested the voltage for the power to the spa control system's circuit board (IQ2020) and it read about 240volts (if I remember the reading correctly). Based on reading other forums, I think this is telling me the heater relay board is bad and needs to be replaced. If that is the case, how can I tell which heater relay part I need to order (part numbers??), so I can look up where I can buy online (any suggestions would be appreciated). Thanks a bunch! Kevin
  17. I have a 2004 Hot Springs Sovereign 240v that has been working like a charm. I went out to use the tub and the heater and jets do not work. The circulation pump is running and lights work. The indicator lights on the control board are green (LNE) and Red (heat) and nothing lit for third. When I activate the pump, the light comes on (red) on the board and the indicator on the dispaly says "jets" but pump does not kick on. Heater is only a year old. Any suggestions on what it would be. My real dilemma is the temp is going to drop well below zero for the next week or so, of course!! Any suggestions? I did see a post similar to my issue a while back, it sounded like a wiring problem. Thanks, Mike
  18. A few year old (4-5?) legends series lsx masterspas tub. It is throwing a few different codes, SnS, dr, then dry (and sometimes Ohh) I suspect these are all related, maybe a non working circ. pump? I have tried to bleed the circ pump, I have checked the head of the circ pump for ease of propeller spinning and no clog. I have turned power off for 5 minutes after each attempt, still not good. (I also started with trying to run without filters, which are clean, just in case was a simple flow issue) Symptoms are that it is not heating. All three pumps seems to work, 2 at both of their speeds, and pump three at its only speed. It does, sometimes, rapidly raise the detected temp. up to the 118 shut off limit, but not always. Water temp is in the 65-75 range right now, as it's not been working for a few days, and it's getting into the 40's-50's at night up here in New England. Upon opening the front, there is a small pump maid by "Laing" that says circ. pump, and I don't seem to see this running. But truthfully, I don't remember if my circ. pump ever ran on its own? Never really paid attention. It does connect directly to the heater tube tho, so being that the dr and dry codes mean not enough water in the heater tube, am I correct in assuming that it is not pushing water into the heater and should start by replacing this? I'd hate to replace it, to find that it's a sensor or something, since the other two codes point to them as well. .? Please help, I am unemployed and can't afford serious costly service reps, but my wife has a bad back and needs this tub working. Thanks in advance, John
  19. I have a 2001 hotsprings GRANDEE I noticed the spa was not hot enough for the girls, tried to up the temp but the display had some weird on it and wouldn't opperate, so i kicked the breaker off to reset( left off for 10 min) when system came back on there was no display @ all and the main pumps would not work the circ pump came on but thats all. i tried to test voltage on stuff all seamed ok, talked to another person who said that there was a problem with the topside ribbon cable on these spas, i unplugged all the connection to make sure there was no corrosion in the way, but again all seams good. ANY ONE HAVE THIS PROBLEM
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