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Question 1 # Why won't my PH settle into the 7.2-7.6 range? Question 2# Why does a light film build up at the water level? Question 3# Are the above questions the reallity of owning an acrilic tub, the Muni Water or bad readings? North Texas Municipal Water stats Treated mg/L TA = 100 Tot Hardness 152 Non-carbonite hardness 51.8 PH 7.84 Chlorine Residual 2.94 I have had my 380 gallon J-335, with Proclear inline mineral cartridge for three weeks. I find that my consumption of test strips, PH decreaser and wiping the shell at the water level is more than I expected. My water is clean, has a neutral smell, no foam and skin dryness is not too bad. I toss a little MPS in after a soak and the ozonator seems to be doing it's job. The test strips that the dealer gave me are good quality and I know this because I bought a different brand and they are simply cheap. I probably need a Taylor test kit but wanted to get some input from the GEEK. Does the original water from the hose only affect the initial setup of the chemicals. If I add a few inches of water should I expect the city water to adjust the balance by a little or a lot? Will bathers increase PH? Should I expect to wipe down the spa everytime I get in? Based on the first three weeks should I expect to use acid every 7-10 days? I plan on cleaning the filters this weekend since we used it a lot in the last three weeks. We are in the habit of showering before we get in the Jacuzzi. This is only a small challenge in a long road of ownership. We love our tub and expect the workload to settle down as time goes on. Thanks, Nug.