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Found 20 results

  1. Hello. I have a hotspot sx. I was wondering if someone that has one could post pictures of the plumbing behind the access panel. Mainly on the left hand side. I bought mine used and only half the jets are working, When I look inside I find there is a hose that is cut and capped. I am thinking someone was in there and did a quick fix to make it work but not a proper one. Any information would be helpful as I cannot find a plumbing schematic anywhere..
  2. Looking for some help out there. Just replaced the heater relay board and the heater did not replace the main board. It worked great for a while and then all of a sudden the red light on the main board would not light up the green light on the main board was lit green. The controls change the temperature OK and the red light shows up for power and control but it does not heat up. This red light is on the control the red light on the main board does not come on does it sound like I need to also upgrade the main board?? Thanks And any help would be greatly appreciated The picture is upside down The green light is on the two red lights are off this is on the main board The green light is limit OK The red heater on never comes on even though I just replaced the power relay board. there is a green light on the power relay board the new power relay board appears to be working fine the only problem is the heater never gets power Limit OK green always lit htr on - red light never comes on Bottom red light on the main board never comes on Small green lit light Constantly on the power relay board Keep in mind that this is an updated power relay board with a main board that is 20 years old
  3. The salt system it’s an unregulated device that’s actually a salt chlorine generator which works in conjunction with a titanium cartridge that breaks down salt to produce chlorine. You will pay a good amount of money for those cartridges plus for all the additional chemicals to get it to run. And because salt is so corrosive, you'll be replacing all kinds of parts and equipment prematurely. In a market where everyone tries to copy each other ideas, hence, so many trademarks and registered products, the Salt System is something that everyone but one manufacture agrees that its bad for the hot tub and enjoyability of it. I am not arguing that SALT WATER is bad for you. On the contrary, Salt Water has its own benefits but it works better on pool water because the temperatures are a lot lower. That is why you see so many salt water pools. The Salt Water System on a hot tub work above 95 degrees and its something that you will find very frustrating to deal with. You will either have too much chlorine or no chlorine at all and the logo flashes and system errors messages will drive you desperate. It can get to the point where you will be asked to put bleach in the tub just so you can get a chlorine reading. At the end, salt in your water accelerates the process of corrosion. Salt Water hot tub dealers love the system because they make a ton of money on repairs. The salt system life expectancy is about a year while a hot tub is can exceed 10 year. Most people get rid of the system months after getting it and there goes the whole reason why you choose them. A hot tub should ALWAYS be fun and easy to use. An good alternative is UV Light Systems. It is used on hospital, schools and during water botting process. If you have the option to add a LOW OUTPUT Ozone system next to the UV light you will be very happy. There is no reason to choose a spa base on salt system when you can get a more comfortable spa with better water quality and management. See for yourself.
  4. Hi We have a two year old hot spring SX (just out of warranty). It has been switched off for a month. I cleaned it (incl filters) , filled it and turned it back on and all seemed fine BUT it won't go about 34 so is too cold to use. The jets are all working just fine. I have noticed that the control panel is a little off though and I don't seem to be able to get into the TLOK menu Have tried switching it off and leaving then switching back on but no difference Anyone got any ideas? I don't think there's an airlock as it is heating AND the jets are running fine. Thanks all
  5. I have a 2012 Hotspring Sovereign. My double Moto massage jets has stopped going up and down, and I have narrowed the problem down to the air flow in the moto massage compartment. No air comes out of the nozzle in the Moto Massage compartment. I have already gone through the following steps: -Changed the Moto Massage jets ( vertebrae tubes) -Changed the air hose with manifold - Turned all control valves in different directions -Cleaned filters (Tri-X) - Run the jets with filters off for a couple of minutes -Checked the air inlet in the service compartment All other jets works fine and are stable Any suggestions from you?? Paal
  6. Hi I’m new to this forum but hopeful of some sound advice if possible please. I have a 2002 HotSpring Sovereign that has developed a leak. I’ve spent some time investigating it myself as far as I can and have discovered that: The leak is coming from behind the back wall of the equipment bay and making its way into the bay from around the large black (vent?) pipe close below it. I've attached a photo to clarify. This is the area where the Heater OUT pipe goes through the back wall, just to the left of where the Ozone generator is located. With just the Circ pump running, I could actually hear it dripping at one point. The leak seems to be dependant on whether I have the Jets on/off and also the position of the Jet control diverter. For what its worth, I have seen no leak in the 9 o’clock position but heavy leaking when turned to 12 o’clock. Though it was leaking steadily, turning the jets on in the 9 o’clock position seems to have stopped it! Currently, with jets off, it is now not leaking, but I’m pretty certain I can start it up again by turning the jet diverter control. I have a broken Air Check valve. It’s the Watkins 70289 part which looks difficult to get hold of in the UK. The valve has just snapped off so the pipe is currently open, albeit tucked up above the control panel. Early on, when the leaked water level stopped below the last jet, I suspected the multi-jet pack in the front right corner and had a dig into the foam to see what I could find. I was pulling out wet foam from fairly high in the wall but found nothing substantial and later decided it wasn’t the main issue, since the area has now dried out anyway. I have applied the Fix-a-leak product which may well have resolved some minor issues but I doubt will resolve this. Circulation pump has just been replaced. Heater was replaced previously. There appears to be no leak from any of the plumbing around these devices. I’m guessing I’ve got some kind of pressure related problem where the Jet diverter position relates to how large the leak is. Maybe this is entirely due to the broken air check valve or maybe its just a leak in the pipework that feeds certain jets. As I say, I’m hopeful that this information might solicit some useful replies please. Worse case it looks like I could retain a hot ‘bath’ with limited/no jets but equally I accept that it just may need to be retired if it takes too much effort to fix. Also, if anyone knows a UK supplier of the 70289 or an equivalent alternative replacement part, that would be great to know. Many thanks, any/all advice is much appreciated.
  7. Hello, I have an IQ 2020 control board that I am trying to replace for my Watkins Prodigy hot tub. My current IQ 2020 has the label that reads Watkins PN: 0974201 REV C. I found an IQ 2020 control board with PN: 1302501 REV F. Does anyone know what the difference is between these two IQ 2020's and will both work on my hot tub???
  8. Hi everyone, I have the possibility to buy a used Hotspring Highlife Sovereign spa of 2012´ (7 years old). Is this choice to be recommended (at 7000€) or is it better to put the price difference and buy a new one? My attention is mainly focused on: - water quality and maintenance required by the spa (are the new models easier to maintain?) - reliability (what is the life expectancy of this equipment?) Thank you for your answers, Alesissss
  9. I have a Limelight Flair (FLR1R3307) with a bad topside control board. If I replace it with part #76845, will it work as is or will it require some sort of software update?
  10. My wife and I just purchased our first house which came with a 2010 Hotsprings Vista hot tub that we want to sell. Have a folder on the paper work from original purchaser which is what I am basing my information off of. I know nothing about hot tubes aside from that we want it gone. It shows a sales slip for $15,286.95...I assume thats not including the t.v. and JBL sound stuff hooked up. We were told we should be able to get $5,000 out of it. First person with $4,000 trailers it home. Its currently hooked up and can be seen it our backyard, but upon purchase we have have made arrangements to bring it to the front yard and can load on your trailer. We will be posting on our local facebook marketplace soon but I figured an actual spa forum may yield better results. If anyone here can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Kyle. Pictures on anything can be sent via text message as I use chromebook and cant save files on it. I am located in the most Southeast tip of Minnesota usually referred to as La Crosse, Wi.
  11. Hi folks Apologies for the *long* post - but could use some help. I have been troubleshooting a blinking red-light problem with my Hotspring Landmark (2000 year model). I have always had a problem after refilling this spa (everytime after a refill if I flipped both breakers on - the blinking red light would turn-on) - the way I would resolve this is by turning the 20A breaker on, then running jets for at least 30 mins to an hour and then turning the 30A breaker on. Sometimes it would take 2 - 3 times of doing this - but it usually worked. Then I refilled last month and noticed one of my jet-pumps leaking - I had a local service person come take it out - had to drain the freshly filled water and replace the wet seal and impeller on it. When he came back to re-install it, he accidentally broke the little black nozzle off the right-angle elbow attached to the circulation pump (that connects to the bleeder hose) - so he replaced the elbow and put a brass barbed fitting in it to connect to the hose. After this I refilled the tub and had my blinking light problem again - and noticed that I wasn't seeing too many bubbles through the bottom drain (they have been low in general) - so did the following troubleshooting: 1) removed the filter and tried - didn't work 2) removed the venturi injector tubing from ozonator check valve -- water comes out of this unless I started Jet-pump-1 at which point the water gets sucked back into the injector.. 3) removed the intake hose from the circulation pump and connected it back in to remove any airlock -- started the jets and 10 minutes later started the 30A breaker - did not trip this time.. However few hours later the red-light was flashing again.. 4) This time I took out the circulation pump (thinking it might have scale deposits inside or something broken) - plugged the hoses with caps so I didn't have to drain and dismantled the pump wet-end (its a silentflo 5000) - pump looked great - no scale / no deposits / no broken parts.. I took it to my local store and the tech there did a dry test and said the circ-pump looked ok to him. 5) Since I had the circ. pump removed - I decided to check the watakins no-fault heater for clogs too, so I removed it; opened the end caps and it's clean as well; resistance was ~9 ohms. 6) So put everything back together - turned on the the 20A breaker and got a good-stream of bubbles initially but they trickled back to a low stream very quickly after that. This time around after disconnecting the injector tubing at the ozone check valve, water still leaked out even after turning on the jet pump - so something was different than before. 7) Turned on the 30A breaker - didn't get the blinking light - left it running -- of course few hours later the blinking red light was back!! So I am still thinking it's my circ. pump - just ordered a new Laing E5 repalcement - but in the meantime - I am wondering if something else is going on.. Any suggestions from anyone? Thanks mrcotton73..
  12. I have a 2003 Hot Spring Grandee. I refilled it about a month ago, ran fine, all lights solid. Went on vacation for a week, come back and have no lights on and the 20 amp breaker immediately trips if I try to turn it back on. The 30 amp breaker is fine. I think this is for the heater, but even with just the 30 amp on, it's not heating and no lights light on the tub. Any suggestions for a fix. I called a technician but they won't be out until Nov. 22nd, and at this point, in Detroit, temps are going down into the 20's the next couple of nights. How fast do hot tub lines freeze? I'm afraid I'm going to have more problems because of the temps.
  13. Opinions on HotSpring (Aria) and Wind River Spas? And thoughts on HotSpring Ace system? Thanks, Warren
  14. I have a 2016 Hot Spring Spa Vanguard. When I have more than a few people in tub, the 30 amp breaker will trip. When I'm in by myself or with one person, there are no issues. Hot Spring replaced my 30 amp breaker -- but the issue is still happening. Has anyone experienced this?? I'm trying to figure out how bather load could make the breaker trip.
  15. I have a Hotspring Jetsetter (Model J) The Power Red light is on. the Ready Green light is on until 82F. When I select 83F and a temperatures above 83F, the Green lamp is off. And the water remains warm at 82F Where do I start? Controller board ? I never cleaned this thing.. Can it be limestone on the temp censors?
  16. It seems so hard to figure a fair price on any hottub no matter where you call. No pricing anywhere online, I'm just looking for a current MSRP on a HotSpring Limelight Flair model. thx
  17. He ya'll, its my first post altough i've been following the forum for a few years now. I have A HOTSPRING VANGUARD, serial VV3M2392, which I bought used, I'm not sure what year is it, and I have been using it for maybe 18 months, but recently it began to shut off itself more often, a message on the screen says "protection mode" or something like that because is in spanish, and says to check filters for cleanliness, to reset main switch or to call service. At first I fixed it temporarily by cleanning filters more often, but then I began to shut down more and more often. on the manual says that when spa does not heat, green logo and blue logo blinking only two probable causes can be: Integrated pressure switch open or circulation pump overheating, since filters are clean, I would think the pressure switch is not working properly. I removed the filter from the circulation pump to be sure and still have same problem I live down in Mexico right now and its not easy to get proper spa service here, I have a friend that was helping me, but he has not answer for quite a few weeks now, he told me to first change the temperature sensors on the heater, there's two, one for the high limit and one for control, and to try this before changing the whole heater. I sent him money for the sensors but he still has not send them to me, its been 8 weeks since that and the spa its losing the best season for use. Since its not easy either to get parts over here, I took the heater off the spa this morning and I am checking it on my work table for cleanliness and to see if I can take it apart to change or clean more thoroughly. From what I've read, I think the pressure switch its not working properly, I'm trying everything before having to replace the whole heater which I think its about 400 bucks and I have to get someone to bring it down to me here in Mexico. Can the pressure switch be replaced?, How can I test it? or can it be jumped? I saw some replacement heaters that doesnt have pressure switch and come with a jumper. Can the temperature sensors do this? BTW I tried to remove the pressure switch from the heater and broke it from the thread, I think I can fix this with some glue but may be I should just replace the whole heater. I forgot to tell that the circuit breaker for the heater some times tripped its the 30 amp I think. Please Advice Eugene
  18. I bought my 2004 Hotspring Sovreign about 7 years ago. I bought it used and the wiring was cut away from the spa so I didn't know if it would work at all. I bought it at a very good price and had it hooked up according to the manual. I noticed the main pump motor kept overheating. When I looked into it, it turns out that I had a Wavemaster 9000 jet pump which is a 230 volt motor. The documentation says that it should have been a Wavemaster 6000 which is a 115. I ended up purchasing an AO Smith pump and installed it myself. I kept the original 9000 pump since it was in near perfect condition. The 6000 motor never really pumped enough water to get the jets really going. Fast forward to this month. My breakers needed to be replaced so I called my electrician to come and fix it. While he was here, I thought I would put the old pump back on and see if I could get it working. When I looked at the wiring it made no reference to a Wavemaster 9000 pump. I couldn't find any reference to it in the manual at all. I'd like to get this pump wired up correctly. Does anyone have experience with this model? Mine is definitely a Sovreign but it looks like it's equipped with a Highlife jet pump. Thanks. -Joel
  19. I have a 2005 Hotspring Grandee Model G . I have just serviced the spa replacing the filters ( tri-x) with new ones. Before draining the spa the green light was blinking on the front exterior panel and the water was not coming up to temperature, and so I thought it might be water flow restriction-- although the circ. pump works fine as does the ozone unit. When I turned the spa back on the green light would not light at all, and the no fault heater still would not work. I tested the power feed to the heater relay board and it was receiving electricity fine. Before I order a replacement heater, can anyone tell me if this symptom means something else is broken- like the heater relay board ..etc.? Something else I can test. I did test the heater with an ohm meter and it seemed ok, but I have little experience with this.
  20. Hello! On Thursday we have had our first startup of our new Envoy! So long everything is working fine and ok. Water reached 38 celsius = 100 F. Regarding the water guidlines we are not really sure about the right values. We are using the ACE system whereas the manual tells that the hardness should be 25-75 ppm, optimal 50 ppm. (Whithout ACE the main manual tells 100 to 150). Our water from the pipe has 300 ppm .... With the vanishing act we reduced to 75 ppm. - ok But some homepages and suppliers of hottubs recommend that the hardness of water should be minimum 200 or better between 250 and 400 to avoid corrosion of the pool parts. Can you explain me such statements and why there is a so huge difference? Am I destroying my hottub with such a low hardness? Tx for replys! Gernot
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