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Found 9 results

  1. Hello everyone. This one is weird for me. I've worked on my own tubs for about 6 years now and have mid-level electrician experience (ran 220 lines, can test with various circuit testers, replaced breakers and motors) I found the GFI tripped and it refused to reset. Disconnected the tub, opened the main breaker, and it physically could not be reset. The breaker was about three years old. We have had power issues, brown outs and power loss due to weather. Maybe even a close lightening strike. I assumed the breaker was bad and replaced it. The tub is a 4 year old Jacuzzi J-235 set up in the 50hz mode. No circulator pump so pump 1 runs in low to heat. There isn't any signs of water leakage anywhere around the tub. After replacement, the tub powered up fine and began reheating. I checked back the next day and the new GFI was tripped. I re-set it, everything powered up fine and it began heating again. I checked back a few hours later, tub temp around 90 and still going well. Checked back the next morning and the GFI was tripped again. The short version is that the tub appears to heat up to around 100F and then trips the GFI breaker. I tested the heater and the resistance was in spec. I replaced it anyway with the same rated heater but in titanium. I isolated the flow sensor and temperature sensor that are in line with the heater and the breaker still trips. I disconnected the UV sanitizer, still trips. The temp sensor and over-temp sensor are spliced together at the plug, so if I disconnect them from the board I get the temp sensor failure error and the heater wont' come on. - not sure if there is a way to test them individually without cutting wires. I can run the pumps in all speeds and it runs fine. In the 50hz mode the heater turns off if both pumps are in high at the same time. I checked the connections in the control panel, the main line black wire wasn't in all the way, just up to the lug but not all the way in the cradle. I fixed that, turned he temperature set point down to 98 and turned it on. It ran for two days so I though I had it fixed. Turned the temp up to 100, three hours later the breaker was tripped. The pumps do not run in high speed unless I select it so I'm guessing the low speed pump is tripping the breaker on overload when the water temp gets high enough. Is there a way to test this? Can I wire the high speed up to the low speed supply lug and let it run to see what happens without damaging the circuit board? Any other ideas? Thank you for any help! R0M0
  2. Hey Guys and Gals, I'm really hoping someone here can help me as I'm at a total loss... I recently moved into a new rental home and there is a nice 2006 Spa Coleman Hot Tub outback. It looks brand new. The owner of the property indicated it wasn't working but he would spend up to 200 on parts if I did the work to which I agreed to see if we can get it going. So first off it hasn't ran in about a year. The water in the tub is stone cold maybe 40 some degrees. When you power on the breaker the tub goes through what appears to be a self check and flashes 100 then 21 then 114 then 240 and then goes direct to an OHH (Overheat Code). I have verified DIP Switch 3 is on and all others are off as shown on the panel diagram. My immediate thought was one of the M7 sensors on the inline Balboa heater were bad. After pricing the 2 sensors I decided to just replace the entire heater with both sensors. The new heater cam today and I installed with both new M7 sensors it just fine with no issues and sure enough it still loads to the OHH screen. I am completely locked out of the panel all it will display is OHH and there is no function. Here are a few more factors that may help someone with more knowledge than me come to a conclusion... 1.) I can't find a rest button anywhere other than the GFCI Reset on the breaker panel. I have looked on the board and all along the power in cord. Am I Missing Something? 1A.) I have hosed out the filter. 2.) When I leave the power to the tub even though the OHH remains on the tub does go into its standard cycle and powers on jets to circulate water every 15 minutes. 3.) If I switch on DIP Switch 10 I get message CFE then A10. Which I understand is a programing mode for the factory and not supposed to be used by the end user. I didn't mess with it to screw up programing but did this to verify the board is in fact communicating with the topside panel. In my logic this says the board is working at least somewhat. 4.) Could it be the sensor inside the tub? That will be a bear to change the way its on the tub so I'm hoping to stay away from that if it's not the likely culprit. At the end of the day it's not my hot tub but I have a 2 year lease here and am willing to spend a few bucks to get it going. The one local spa place here charges 200 just to come out and have a look and then 150 per hour which I can't afford for just a diagnostic! Please help! I'd love to hear if you've ever experienced this or something similar and what the fix was. Happy New Year Everyone! Justin
  3. 2009 Marquis Epic Spa Arrived at spa to find it cold and no power. Found GFI tripped. Reset GFI and panel powered up and displayed HOT. No controls will work. Set dip switch one to ON, cycled power. Set dip switch one to OFF and cycled power. HOT code cleared and now displays OHH. Found #1 Spa Pump failed with bearing locked up. Replaced Pump with new. Cleaned spa and filters. New pump turned on and ran for 1 min and shut down with flashing OHH code. Using meter, measured spa heater element disconnected at 10.5 ohms. With heater disconnected it has no effect or change to code. Measured water temp in tub at 65 deg. Measured water temp inside heater core at 65 deg. Measured Balboa M7 sensors at 36,100 ohms (69.3 degrees) and other at 37,210 ohms (68.1 degrees). I am using Balboa Temp & High Limit Sensor Chart. At one point the pumps turned on and I had full control from top control panel. Temp set for 89 deg. Temp indicated 111 deg. It then went to 112 deg and pump turned off and OHS code appeared. While it was working I had the filters removed and had excellent flow from both pumps. Cycled power again and OHS code cleared and OHH code immediately appeared. At this point I have no control at top panel and nothing works. Approximately every two hours pump 1 turns on low for 1 minute with OHH code flashing and pump turns off within 1 minute. I replaced upper control panel at the same time as pump. Checked all fuses and all check good. Power to GFI checks good. Power at Spa Circuit board checks good at 241.9 volts. Red to White 120.8 volts. Black to white 120.8 volts. Could my circuit board be causing the problem?
  4. I have a 2003 Hot Spring Tiger River Bengal which won't heat. I replaced both thermistors but if I have the main (4 pin) thermistor lead connected to the main board it trips the system (not the power feed ground leakage) and flashes the red light on control panel. If I disconnect this sensor then main pump and lights work fine, the temperature display works and the (green) ready light on the control board is lit. No heat to pool and ozone system seems to be inoperative. Any clues, please ? I'm about to test heater voltage when rain stops (!) What should I expect to see, please ?
  5. So, hoping someone can answer my question. Thanks in advance if you can. I had a major leak on my Down East hottub. Tracked it down to, what I believe is called, the bleeder plug. The O-ring looks to be shot. The problem I am having is that I can't get it to screw back into the fluid end. I have not replaced the o-ring and don't know if I may have a bigger problem. It somewhat screws in when I take the o-ring completely off. I hope this makes sense and it's a common problem. I have pictures of what I am calling the bleeder plug. https://ibb.co/jPdjxn https://ibb.co/dXEPxn
  6. Four Winds Cayman, seats 3 people, 29 jets, air and water, Model 300 Elite Series, dimensions 81.5" X 59" X 31.75". HP of pump 5.0. Balboa Digital Electronic Controls, Quiet Performance. $ 2495 or best offer, must sell, moving and cannot take with us.
  7. Good morning, all! My husband and I have been looking to purchase a hot tub for about a year now, but simply cannot bring ourselves to spend $6k+ on a brand new tub. I was poking around online yesterday and happened to find a used 2005 Sundance Cadence hot tub that a woman was giving away for free, as long as we haul. We went to check it out same day and loved it- it's a great tub and looked well maintained. We have to figure out how to move it, so I started calling a few local hot tub haulers. The one who got back to me said he would politely decline the job as the Sundance tubs from that time period are made with a type of wood that often rots out from underneath. He said the bottom of the tub may detach from the rest of it when we try to move it onto its side. My husband is very handy and it doesn't phase him that he may need to rebuild some of the base, but it scared me a bit. Has anybody dealt with this? Is this really a very common issue with the Sundance tubs? We'll now be moving it ourselves so we're trying to figure out those logistics, too. Thank you.
  8. I recently bought a house that came with a Sundance brand hot tub. I've had a guy come out and fix one obvious leak that was there and since then I've discovered another leak. I've tried Fix-a-Leak on it, and it worked initially, but the leak is back. It's coming from a large opening behind the electronics panel on the side of the tub. Here's a picture: http://imgur.com/jBnrjoX
  9. I'm looking for a good used hot tub that's not too expensive but not so cheap that it will be a hole in the pocket. I found someone local selling a 2004 Sundance Altimar spa and they listed it for $1500. It comes with a cover and is in good working condition. Is that a good price? Anything to be cautious of?
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