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Found 6 results

  1. Hi all! We've recently bought a Hawaii airjet Lay-Z-Spa and for the life of me i cannot get my head around keeping the water clear! After around 5-7 days of use we are dealing with very cloudy, almost teal coloured water and i'm getting vastly different readings on my strip tests. Bought a clear water starter kit and the dip tests in there give me a High PH level reading, but a second set i bought from B&Q which are a 6 in 1 test show the PH to be very low. I'm cleaning the filter out often and we've tried shocking the water with chlorine but the water is still murky, there's no funky smell like its not clean, its just not so nice to look at i guess and i'm positive there's something up that i can't quite figure out! Any tips on resolving cloudy water and also avoiding it in the future? I really don't want to resort to refilling every week! Thanks J
  2. Ph high. I always have a problem with it. TA, Calcium, Bromine all within normal ranges. What is going on and what can I do about the pH? Thanks to anyone who can answer this. Even more thanks to anyone who can make it simple enough that an idiot like me can understand it.
  3. I did do a search but could not find this specific topic; sorry if this is a repeated question. (I suspect that it is). I did read the threads on decontamination. (which may be what I need) Simple version: 1) What can cause TA and PH to continue to go up, even after it is down to normal range? 2) Can it be a growth of bacteria? 3) What causes foaming to get worse 24 hours after the last use, when there was no foaming during the use itself? (again bacteria in water?) Chemical status: (based on digital direct read PH meter, test strips, and a digital meter for one of the hardnes readings at the local store, forgot which one) TA- 120 PH – 8.2 Calcium Hardness – 75 Total dissolved solids – 2-5 Running a bromine tablet floater (and crushed one tablet to start it) Have ozone generator. 330 gallon clear water spa Temp: 98 Water from well, but through a water softener and hose end filter. The longer description: I bought a used hot tub, that had been winterized by draining, no RV antifreeze used. There was some water in the spa low points that was not nice at all. One pool of it had scaled or changed the surface of the tub, but the other small pools caused no damage. After mopping up the water and drying the inside of the tub, I reconnected the pump lines which had been off all winter. On initial fill, there was a bit if a scum lines that formed and a lot of foaming. Tap water (from well) PH – 7.4 TA – 240 (of higher test strip very blue) Total Hardness (very low could be 0) Anti-foaming did not help, so added: - Enzyme - Shocked with trichlor - - PH down - Added some calcium to get total hardness up - Crushed on bromine tablet Over the next week the PH continued to go up to 8.5 in 12 hours. I used 1/3 of a bottle of ph down over the course of a week. I would get the PH down to 7.4 and the TA down below 120, but in 12 hours both would go up. I shocked with trichlor, added clarifier, and antifoaming, which controlled the foaming for a short time. Over the next week, TA and PH would go from 7.4 and a ta below 120, to 8.5 and TA high. I used up 1/3 of a bottle of ph down in 4 days and had to buy more….. The other odd thing is that at the end of the first use, there was a little foaming, and water not very clear. I shocked, and added more clarifier, and things were better. The next day I checked and PH was up, so I added PH down, and turned on jets, got foaming. I added antifoam. Second use (two people) PH again high, but no foaming and clear water. Next day PH up again, and foaming when I started the jets to distribute the PH down. The local spa shop, recommended that I super shock for a week, so sanitize the pool, take out the filters and run a jet clean, then drain and start over. HE wanted me to raise the chlorine for a week, then add the jet cleaner, let it sit a day then drain. After reading the decontamination thread, the recommendation seems to be to run the jet clean first, then drain, super shock for 24 hours, drain and refill then a chlorine use test. I got the since that this guy did not really know his stuff, and was just giving a standard answer, he gave me a sheet on super chlorinating the hot tub which was preprinted. He also said that the test kit using drops were a waste of time and not needed. He said that they were no more accurate than the strips. (Which leads me to believe that he really does not know his stuff) When we talked about bromine, he did not have a clue, and said that they do not recommend or sell it. I am willing to super shock it, if it will solve the problem, but I am not sure that it will help. I know that something is making foaming worse, after we get out, so maybe there is something that just needs a good sanitation. I am running a chlorine take up test now, and will see the results tomorrow.
  4. We have had our 500 gal hot tub for 2 years and I keep the water chemistry in good shape as I have learned from reading this forum. But I messed up on last fill and calculated my Calcium Hardness wrong - added too much calcium increase. I realized what I had done and drained about half the water - lesson learned - I should have drained it all. After fighting with water chemistry for about a month - could not keep ph from soaring. I drained half the tub again (it's winter temps here, so I didn't want to drain it all) and cleaned all the jets and the sides of the tub. Again - still fought with water chemistry this last month - ph way too high. I would balance and the next day it would be way too high. We scored a day above freezing a week and a half ago, so we completely drained the tub and started over. My CH = 120. Next I balanced the TA to 80. Then the ph to 7.6. I left it sit overnight and checked it the next day (wanted to be sure since I have had so many problems) and again my ph is sky high. It is way above 8.0 every day (using Taylor test kit) and I lower it using muratic acid to 7.6 every day. I keep my eye on the TA bringing that back within the 80=100 range using baking soda. The water is crystal clear - we have not sat in it since changing the water. I also have not put in any sanitizer yet. I called the local spa place to see if they had any insight. I was told to just keep lowering the ph down to like 7.0 every day until it quits rising. Does this sound right to you all? Anyone else ever have this issue? I am at a loss. Additionally I am really sensitive to chlorine and bromine. Would the dichlor-then-bleach method be an option for minimal skin issues? UPDATE! Since posting this I have not made any headway. Everytime I check the ph it is over 8.0 My Taylor test kit shows bright pink - well over 8.0 I have never had issues before and just cannot understand why I am now. Please help? If it were warmer I would drain it, I am worried it may ruin my tub, but it is well below zero here every night.
  5. Greetings, I have been reading the forum for about an hour looking for a solution to the problem in my mom's above ground, easy set pool. It's going crazy with algae and she wants to shock it but the chemistry is all out of norm. I think I have a plan, but would like to double check and get some advice. Here's the lowdown: Pool Type Intex easyset pool: 15'x4' 4440 gallons (though not quite full, maybe around 4000 gallons) SWG- intex brand (I think, it's from Walmart) Levels CYA 150 TA >240 PH >8.4 FC 0 Hardness 1000 Salt 8.0- 6140ppm (I'm transcribing exactly how my mom sent the values, not sure what the two different values mean here, but it seems high nonetheless) edit: tested with HTH 6 in 1 test kit strips. Misc info She has the SWG running from 8pm-11pm nightly like the book recommends. We have very hard well water with high pH (our area has a lot of limestone) My mom runs a water softening unit that also uses salt and the water that filled the pool went through this first. edit: she has never added anything to it except for the initial salt as instructed by the SWG booklet. Tentative Plan- please advise 1. Lower the CYA level by draining part of the water and refilling (but what if the well water is high in CYA? Maybe I should test it?) Also how much to drain? 1/2? 2. Add an acid to bring down the alkalinity. Which product is best for very alkaline/high pH well-water? 3. Add an acid to bring down the pH. Isn't this redundant? Use same product? 4. Brush the pool. Seems self-explanatory. 5. Shock the pool. Which product do you advise for use with SWG? 6. Vacuum the pool. Advice on a vacuum for an AGP would be appreciated, we don't have one. Thanks in advance!
  6. Hello, We moved into a new house not quite 6 months ago and became the proud owners of a hot tub for the first time. I wasn't sure of the age of the filters or the last time the water had been changed so I emptied the tub, bought new filters, new chemicals, a titration test kit and took all the measures our local pool and spa stores recommended. I have repeated the above (except buying new filters) four times now, because after a month I get trouble. We are on a municipal water source that has a high pH. It's too dark a color to accurately say what it is, but at least 8.0 pH. If I were to add enough pH Down to lower the pH to a 7.5 the alkalinity would drop below 60ppm. So I've just been dropping the alkalinity to about 90ppm and letting the pH ride a bit high at about 7.8. This seems to work just fine for about a month and then it turns cloudy with a slight green tint. I retest the chemicals, all readings are normal but the pH normally begins to drop when it gets cloudy to about 7.6. I add stain and scale, I use a shock product, and nothing happens!!! I use chlorine for a sanitizer, and have 5 tri-x filters in a 500 gallon hot springs vista spa. I need HELP!! This is becoming extremely frustrating. I'm considering buying a calcium hardness test kit tomorrow because that's one parameter I've assessed yet. Could CH be the culprit? Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks, Eric
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