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Showing results for tags 'heater'.
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Greetings pool gurus, Hoping to get some clues as to what's up with an older Jandy LXi heater that's not working consistently. Been in my house for about 5 years - pool and equipment came with the house, and was clearly a few years old at that point. Heater outdoors, but in a covered area so it's not getting rained on. Use the heater for integrated hot tub. Heater has been flaky the entire time we've been here - sometimes it would light, sometimes it wouldn't, sometimes it would come on once, but then not re-activate once the water temperature dropped - just flaky all around. Pool company we contracted with for service at the time could never make it work right; threw parts at it, called it "repaired", but the next time we'd go to use it (often weeks later), it would act up again. Most recently - wouldn't light at all, period. Checked resistance on the igniter; supposed to be between 40 & 75 ohms; was at 76 ohms one time, and 74 the next. Swapped it - seemed to help; lights the first time *consistently* now. Unit comes up to temperature, but will not re-ignite; ends up timing out after 3 tries, I get my ignition fault, and three flashes on the ignition control module. When this occurs, I *am* seeing the glow through the window on the side of the unit, so the igniter seems to be online. Replaced the flame sensor rod; it had a fair bit of residue on it - cleaned it first; no change, so swapped it. No change in behavior with the new sensor. Pressure sensor was replaced recently by my pool maintenance guy before I did the above - (he works for the old company, and has buddies who help with repairs) - it looks fine, both hoses are new - no obvious issues there. Would this be related to a fusible link issue, even though I'm consistently getting the ignition fault error message? Could it be the incoming airflow needs to be adjusted a bit, in that once the heater has been on for a while, the mixture needs to be slightly different to allow for the subsequent rounds of ignition and heating? I don't have the tools to measure the plenum pressure unfortunately. Open to any suggestions on what to check next; kind of a pain since I can't just do testing right off the bat - gotta let it heat up, cool down, and wait for that second attempt at heating. Unit is on propane, and has a dedicated line that's for it, a 900 square foot outbuilding, and a patio fireplace - neither of the others are in use when this occurs, and no issues with either of them. I'm stuck since the error is consistent, not pointing to other sources - appreciate any additional testing ideas or suggestions! -
Hi! I was wondering if someone could help me. My hot tub is 6 months old. I am having a few problems with it. It won’t heat up and when I have checked the manufacture instruction it says the filter may need to be replaced and will show an error message. However, the filter isn’t too bad and the error message is ‘SH’ or ‘5H’, which isn’t the error message for a filter replacement. I have also noticed that when I take off the cap to the air valve used to inflate the hot tub there is water pouring out of it. I have emptied the hot tub completely to see if there are any noticeable problems and I can’t find any. I was just wondering if anyone could give me advice on what to do The hot tub isn’t a popular brand and I bought it from Studio. The brand is called Aqua Spa and the hot tub is an Aqua Spa Deluxe. thank you!
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My hot tub heater is leaking on one side of it on both pipes. What would anyone suggest to seal it or fix it. Do I need a new heater?
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Can anyone please help me with the model number of my Hayward Pool and Spa heater. Here is what I know....it is a natural gas heater, and I do know (from my research) that it is in the "H Series". Unfortunately California Pools and Spas put their name on it, so it doesn't say the model # on it like a normal Hayward does. Please help me identify it from the pictures.
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I am looking for a new (external) heater to heat my hot tubs, currently using a "Coasts st-11" 11kW single phase heater, but I can't find a matching model sold in the UK. Can anyone provide me with a source for this (or suitable alternative) heater sold within the UK?
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I recently purchased a Superior Spa hot tub used. Before buying everything worked as it should. Temp was around 98 when I went to look at it. Once hot tub was relocated, and filled, the heat would not get above 77 degrees when the temp was set at 95. I have turned the temp up to 105 and it won’t go above 81 degrees. I did some research and found it could be a possible flow restriction from the filter or a clogged pipe. I’ve also read to use a multimeter to check voltage at the heater terminals. I do do not have a manual for this tub and after looking on google it seems the company is out of the UK and for some reason no info will load on their website. Questions: Does anyone have any info on where I can obtain specific information on my model of hot tub? Get a manual? Had anyone had a similar issue as I, to help troubleshoot my problem? Thanks for reading.
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Family Friend's gave my fiance and I a hot tub for free and we've been trying to get it to work. It worked for the previous owners last summer (2017) but since we've inherited it we cant get it to work. It is an Advanced Spas Model: DS404STD (year: 2000). We got the pump and jets working but the heater won't heat the water up and it seems to be tripping the breaker. We removed the heater and turned on the jets and it didn't trip. The minute the heater is added back into the mix the breaker trips. As well, still not heating up the water. We bought a replacement heating element for the tub, but it hasn't seemed to solve either problem. We had a local Spa Service come out and take a look but they took one look at the age of our tub and refused to get involved because of the age. We've already sunk $400 into this (moving it and hooking up the electricity) so we don't want to give up hope. Even if we can get one year out of it, it'll be worth it. But right now it's an expensive lawn ornament. Any thoughts or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. We have NO idea what we're doing - neither of us have owned a hot tub before so we're flying a little blind here. We get married in November and it would be such a gift to get this thing running by then so we can relax after the wedding. Thank you in advance for any suggestions!
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Inflatable Spa heater switching off during heating
norrie posted a topic in Portable Hot Tubs & Spas
Just set up the spa for the season after been in storage over winter and I have a situation whereby my MSPA Reve JB-301 inflatable spa heater will switch to standby and control panel will power off after about 30mins while heating up the water. The temp has got up to 30 deg C, controller powers on and heater and filter comes on for about 30 mins then switches to standby. I have fitted a new filter and the water level is just below the maximum. Has anybody any ideas's why this would happen. -
I had been noticing this month that the control panel is getting a little harder to use, normally I go out and push the button for ten mins and let it run so I can test my water. Lately I have been having to press either of the buttons a few times before they respond. Four days ago I went out and my water was almost warm, I left it alone after unplugging the power, and searched Google for Classic F Jets work but no heat. I ran into something about the circulation pump, and I had forgotten to see if the water was circulating. I went out yesterday plugged it back in and saw the water circulating. Left it plugged in this time. Today I found something about the Hi-Limit Thermistor, so I went out to find it and see if I could see anything that looks odd about it so I might know if its having a problem. I noticed a white crust on the outside of one of the Thermistor, So I took a picture of it. I am not sure what one is what so the one with the white crust on it is the one at the far end. I also noticed that the plugs on the other end of the wire are very loose and floppy. Heater going bad or Thermistor going bad? After I took the photo I decided to feel the water and it is warm again. Did I reset something by unplugging ? Also this link has a photo of the other side of the wires, I see bare covered wires on one of the plugs does this need to be addressed? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/itsmeab4u/Hot%20Tub/IMG_20120727_144750.jpg
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Hello everyone, I've had my 2012 hut tub since new and have had no issues with it... until this winter season. When the outside temperature reaches approximately -4F (-20C) or below, two things happen: Pump 2 engages and doesn't shut off. I have to manually turn it off. However, when I manually turn it off, it will turn back on when a) a set filtration cycle starts, or a call for heat occurs. The heater is not turning off when the desired inside temperature has been reached. For example, I keep my hot tub set at 101F, during a cold two week stretch we had the tub reach 114F because I left it for a couple days and didn’t manually turn off. If it's anywhere above approximately -4F (-20C), the hot tub operates as expected. Calls for heat at the right times, goes through the filtration cycles correctly, etc. I tried changing the filtration cycles to see if that does anything... which it didn't. I've reset the system, still didn't do anything. So I guess what I'm looking for is some suggestions on how to troubleshoot this. Don't know if it's a board issue, pressure switch, heater, etc. I've tried Googling this issue and I haven't found anything similar. Outside of moving to a warmer climate, please help! Here's some additional info: 2012 Sundance 680 Series Two pumps - Pump 1 and Pump 2 (no circulation pump) Here is an excerpt from the manual that may be of interest: Approximately two minutes after power is applied to the spa, the first filtration/heating cycle turns on pump 1. With two pump models, an automatic five minute “blow-out” function also activates pump 2 for a period of five minutes to flush all lines. Then, after five minutes, pump 2 turns off and pump 1 continues to operate for the duration of the cycle. Thank you.
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Hi. I've got a 2012 Caldera Kauai. I had to remove the electrical service cable to install tub. I accidently removed the heater wires from the control box terminal block. Does anyone know where the correct positions are for the white and black heater wires?
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I bought a house with a pool four years ago. The pool system includes a Mastertemp 400 heater. The heater stopped working and makes a gurgling noise when turned on. I understand that this means that the heat exchanger has failed and is leaking into the combustion chamber. The heater is something like 10 years old. It seems at that age I should buy a new unit, rather than trying to have the heat exchanger replaced. Thoughts? A guy we like for the install will install another Mastertemp for half the price of installing a Raypack (won't have to do much pipe work). I've read that people mildly prefer the Raypack, but maybe not enough to make up for a couple hundred extra bucks of install. Thoughts? I've heard that a sacrificial anode might extend the life of my new heater. I don't have a salt pool. Is an anode helpful in an old-fashioned chlorine pool, or only a salt pool? Thank you!
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The heater lights from what I can tell, then hot air starts coming out of the vent, then it gets going harder and even more air blows out of the vent (warm air), and then it eventually stops and the service light comes on. Anything I can do to resolve this?
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Ok, there are plenty of "blinking power light" threads on here but I'm trying to make sure I don't waste $ !! I've got a 2008 Tiger River Caspian and the hi limit keeps being triggered. I've replaced the circulation pump with a newer model along with hi limit and the thermistor. The circ pump flow seems fine- lots of bubbles. The filter is "reasonably" new. I disconnected the ozone a while back, but this problem showed up long after...When I reset the breakers, the tub gets reasonably hot but after a while it stops heating and the blinking power light starts; the DC17 LED on the IQ2020 board lights up. Both the heater and the connection IQ2020 LEDs light up when I reset the breakers. There doesn't seem to be any visible problems with the relay. Now, I've seen some white calcium buildup on the outside/bottom of the heater and high limit/thermistor recently. Is this the problem? I don't have scale in the main tub. I have never used Spa System Flush or similar but maybe I should have...! I have had a few rodent visitors in the area but it doesn't appear they have done any damage. Should I replace the heater? Would just flushing it work or is it too late? Any tips would be appreciated before I spend the dough. JC
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I recently bought a home which had a hot tub included with the sale. We finally got it up and running and have noticed it loses heat more than we expected it to. We are in eastern Canada and have had some nights down to -4C already. For example a night not long ago it was -3C and we had 4 bathers in the tub for approx 1 - 1.5 hours and the tub was down to 100 (from 104 set) when we got out. I left the cover off for another half hour after we got out to add chemical and the tub was then down to 98. One set of jets was running most of the time, 1 bather had the air turned on for most of the time. The tub model is Legend by Platinum Hot Tubs. The spa pack is a Balboa HS200VS with a 4.0kW heater. I've noticed in researching tubs this is on the low end of heater ratings, with 5.5kW being more common. So I have a few questions... 1. Is this amount of heat loss normal? I hope not because its only going to get colder here, often down to -15C or -20C. 2. Is a heater upgrade possible on this pack? I've seen some recommendations elsewhere saying its never a good idea to upgrade a heater but what makes me think its possible is that the circuit board (P/N 55098) used in this spa pack is the same as a VS510SZ by Balboa which has a 5.5kW heater. And would it make a difference as far as heat loss is concerned? My spa is wired up to a 60A breaker. I've also noticed Balboa sells secondary auxillary heaters in various kW ratings, obviously one of these would require additional wiring but is it possible to retrofit these or are they only installed by spa manufacturers? Any help would be great, thanks.
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I inherited a 1997 Beachcomber Model 550 that is not heating but I wish it did. Here' what I know: -the motor is running normally and the pump is working fine, both are brand new -there are no error codes on the topside controller but the red heating status light does not come on -when powered up the actual temperature reading is 54F now. Was 56F yesterday which I'm assuming means the water temperature sensor is working -the temperature setting on the controller is set at 100F. I am able to raise and lower this setting but nothing changes in terms of operation -heater element resistance is 15 ohms but no 240v at terminals -the heater relay on the circuit board shows 253 ohms but is not closing which explains no 240v at heater element terminals. Manually closing the relay gives 240v at the heater element. Having trouble testing for 120v at relay, not sure how to do this. -with the power off, pressure switch is open. Not able to confirm if the pressure switch is closing when powered up, not sure how to do this either. -removing the pressure switch/high temp sensor connector (4 pin combined connector) from the circuit board before powerup causes a Sn fault -checked the high temperature sensor for continuity, not showing any resistance. I understand Ohms should vary with temperature, ie. higher when colder and my guess this is the cause of the problem. -circuit board looks ok, ie. nothing burnt, no cracks, continuity in several circuits I checked.. Any insight is appreciated not to mention some advice as to where a guy can find parts for older Beachcomber hot tubs. Thank you.
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Spa is not heating, voltage to each element is 120v. But when I set the temp up to 104 the spa kicks on for a shot while and then shuts off. I don't hear a low speed pump circulating. What way should I go, change the 2 speed pump or replace heater?
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I need advice. I am installing a fiberglass pool. The contractor is trying to place the heater/pump/system by our shed. However do the small slope of the yard, they have tired to build it on a cinderblock platform. Is this legal? safe? Thoughts on this please. We are meeting with the contractor tomorrow to discuss. They moved and installed it today without our consent. Stefani
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I have a 2003 Sundance Sweetware Palmero hot tub which was working fine for years. I didn't run it for a year and then when I turned it back on it would trip the power breaker when the heater would click on. I checked around and everyone said it was a bad heater so I bought a new heater and installed it. No change. I then heard people say that it was my circuit board with a bad lead. I bought a new circuit board and installed it, NO CHANGE. I know the power is good because when I don't have the heater connected on the board the jets run fine. Gotta say this has me stumped! All help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Hi I have a 2000 hotsprings jetsetter model j that I'm attempting to repair. So far I replaced the heater circulation pump which got the hot tub working after 2 or 3 years of sitting for about 5 days after which it started to blow the gfci plug. I ohm'd the heater and it reads 10.8 ohms. When I reset the gfci it starts up Until it hits the heater and trips. With the heater unplugged it operated normally. What could cause the problem in the heater if the resistance is In spec?
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Hi again all, I have a Hot Springs Hot Spot SX that isn't heating. I'm able to set the target temp and the spa will attempt to run and heat up but after a while I get the following error code while the jets are running - display reads ===== with 'ready' slowly blinking, with filter cycle icon in lower right lit and jet icon in lower left lit. I already replaced the electronic pressure switch thinking this would solve the problem, but it's doing the same thing. Any guidance is much appreciated!
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So hopefully this is in the right place, I'll start off with a little back information just to bring anyone willing to share their knowledge up to speed. We finally bought our first home about 6 months ago, the property has on it a in ground indoor pool, (about 15,0000 gallons I believe). I have never in my life owned or maintained a pool so I am still very new to this world. We fell in love with the house and had the pool building itself inspected but unfortunately didn't understand how important a pool inspector would be. After dealing with a stained liner, and cleaning up a slightly neglected building I finally was able to get the water balanced out for the most part and find a propane company willing to work with me (some of them here wont service pools)... unfortunately when it came time to hook up everything we found out that we would have to invest in a new pool heater, we rolled out the over 20 year old raypak and just received our new hayward h200fd, the vent pipe looked ok from the outside and I ignorantly assumed I could reuse it, which of course I quickly realized would not happen. The hayward instructions are somewhat vague, the pool stores near me can't offer more then the number of someone to call, doesn't even sound like it would be a professional and I already have a friend of the family that is an electrician and owns a home improvement business helping us tackle it, he has installed pool heaters before just not indoors. I have now ordered a positive pressure vent kit for the model I have and am starting to become concerned if I ordered the right thing or not, apparently negative pressure is for vertical venting, and positive pressure is for horizontal, I believe since the vent pipe will be going out the side of the building it is considered horizontal, also, also I would like to understand what a drip tee is and if I need one, why the old system didn't have one but did need a draft hood? Lastly this vent adapter is coming from a company called heatfab, they have other vent pipe material to purchase and it's shown in the owners manual the part numbers for the rest of the piping to go out the building, the prices they ask are very high, just the adapter was almost $250 So we would prefer just to go to a hardware store and buy a few feet of double wall stainless vent pipe, is there a reason against doing this? Thank in advance, I know this was a lot at once but I'm finally at the point where I can admit I am lost...
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I have a 1999 Caldera Spa's Martinique. Yes, I know it's an old model, but I'm renting a house and it's permanently installed, so it can either be a swamp (as when I moved in) or a functional tub. It seems to work fine, but I have one problem and one question: Problem: the circulation pump kicks in for a minimum of 2 hours twice a day (4 hours total), and when it does, the heater kicks in as well. This is a problem because the minimum temperature on the spa is 80F, so for 4h a day it's running the heater to get from 60F (or whatever ambient is) up to 80F, even though I don't plan on using it for a week or maybe more. Is there any way to disable this? I imagine I'd have to mess with the logic control board... Question: I know that all of the functions work because I can test them (i.e. jets, filter, light, etc.) but the one thing I cannot test is the ozone generator (which I can see is installed). There is no error code being displayed, but that doesn't mean it is working. Does anyone know how I can check this? Thank you!
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So i have an in ground spa, it sits in the deck area. I havnt used it for about 6 years, so i went and got a new pump, re-did the PVC and everything worked. But the heating did not. Im using a gas heater and when i turn it on only the pilot turns on, it makes no noise and the main burners dont seem to turn on, i dont actually know how to use the heater properly so maybe im doing somethinf wrong? The flow into the heater is really strong so i know thats not an issue. I put pictures below of the heater if anyone can help me please. P.S. the pump and heater light are on (orange) http://pasteboard.co/GVauPFkrq.jpg http://pasteboard.co/GVdmg02rI.jpg http://pasteboard.co/GVgHIsOMs.jpg
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My 2007 Arctic spa hot tub is equipped with n.xm platform and IN.THERM-H4.0 Gecko AEWARE heater. The small output connector for the heater (heater communication cable) keeps tripping the breaker. The other connector (power cable) doesn’t. I replaced the breaker but with the same results.When unplugged I get the a communication problem error (RH-NC). Can this be fixed or do I have to replace the heater? How do I test it? Any help will be much appreciated.
