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  1. Hi, We just tried using our heater and noticed it not kicking on. It's a Raypak P-R407A-EN-C. When I turn it on, I hear a louder click which I guess it he guess valve and then I hear a sparking sound which I believe is it trying to light. I usually smell gas after turning it on. Heater display shows SPK the whole time. I'm not sure where to look to see the pilot light and if it's lit. I'm also unsure what panel to remove to investigate the ignitor as it sounds likes that could have rust or some build up on it. A few days ago when I was messing with it, the blower kicked on a couple times and then would shut off after 2-3 seconds. Thoughts?
  2. So this winter I came home to a blown out fitting on the pipe to/thru the heater (left side coming into heater box). I believe it was due to an "OH" error (which I've seen before & shuts the jacuzzi down) which shut the heater down, water froze, black clamp fitting busted, water drained out. So yesterday I replaced the fitting, filled it & it fired up as normal, circulated & all seemed fine. BUT, the water never heated up. I checked all wires & fittings. So does this seems like a heater issue? I can easily find the heater & replace myself, but I'm not 100% sure that's the most likely issue. Thoughts? Thanks!
  3. Woke up to about a foot of water missing from my hot tub (Tiger River Bengal). I shut off the power so that I didn't burn up the heater or pump. I then had to leave for a few days, but when I got back I thought "what the hell, I'm going to fill it back up and observe." I left the power off, and it wasn't leaking! Dry as a bone around the base for days. So I flipped the power back on (thinking what a lucky guy I am that it miraculously fixed itself). After a few hours, I saw the water slowly pooling by the side of the tub. It's not coming out of the pump or the heater itself (it's dry in the compartment where all the equipment is housed). So, where do you think it's leaking from? It's definitely tied to the low circulation heater pumping process. Thanks for any suggestions.
  4. I have a 2004 hot springs grandee and it was at the house when we moved in, so I dont know much about it. We filled it and the green ready light is flashing. I replace the thermoser sensor and the high limit sensor. I also had to bypass the pressure switch to get the red power light to stop blinking. will be installing an online switch if I can get the rest working. After all the sensors have been changed green light is still flashing. Circulation pump looks newer and has good flow. Now the pumps get hot and turn off but do not trip the breaker??? I checked for air lock in pumps and looks ok. Could both jet pumps be bad?
  5. Hello, we were recently "gifted" an old Morgan Hot tub, and we were told that it was working. However, we're having some issues with it and we're trying to figure out how to fix it up! It hasn't been easy because we've never owned a hot tub before, plus this one is quite old and hard to find resources online. This is an S Class system. The spa turns on..and all the jets and lights work. The filter is brand new. However, we get a #32 flashing on the display along with flashing lights above it..We are not able to set the heat as it will go back to 32 after we enter a different number. Then, after lots of research, we finally discovered how to slowly turn the top of the pressure valve with a screwdriver until the heater clicked. At that point, all the flashing lights on the display stopped completely..but the #32 is still on the screen..and if you type in a temperature..it will stay on it for a second..then go back to the #32. The heater is not heating up at all..we waited a good while and confirmed this by touching the heater. There is definitely water flow through it, as the jets work nicely and we can feel and see the water flow through the heater. We also can't properly read the digital display buttons, because some of the writing is worn off, nor can we find any instructions or guidance online about how to use this particular panel. So we don't know if it has any type of settings, like Standard, Economy...etc... or how/if we can clear orl reset the display. Plus we have no way of knowing what the 32 means. Any information on the panel or this issue would be greatly appreciated! We actually ordered a new temperature sensor. We're not sure if this will help, but it seems to be the likely problem if the blinking light errors were resolved after adjustment to the pressure gage..so the circuit board seems to detect the pressure gauge..so we think that leaves the sensor...we did unplug and replug in everything into the circuit board as well as clean the leads..but that hasn't helped. Other than that, the spa works great! The motor runs well, and all of the jets come on. If we could just get it to heat..and figure out the #32 and display..we should be good! Any information at this point would be so very helpful, because finding any information online has been almost impossible! I'm including pictures of our box and our control panel. Please let me know if you see any immediate concerns! (please ignore the one picture where the brown copper leads aren't connected to the pressure gauge...that was resolved.. along with the adjustment of the gage to get the heat to click on. We heard a click..the flashing lights went away (But not the #32) but it still didn't heat at all. **Also..if anyone requests that we access the jumpers, can you point out their location? On the diagram it looks like they are below or underneath the white paper that says enclosed. If that opens..how so? Do we have to remove the paper? Or, are the jumpers accessible in a different place.. it'd be great if you could circle any areas you're referring to in your answers if needed. Thank you so much in advance! 🙏💙
  6. I have a 120V 05 or 06 Tiger River Bengal Spa that the heater will shut down intermittently on. If I unplug it and wait a few minutes and plug it back in it starts back up fine and may go for 2-3-4-X days and then it shuts down again. The indicator I get is the blinking power light on the control panel. If I check the circuit panel the only lights that are lit is the D17 LED which is red. I'm the original owner and we have not had any issues until last summer when it started doing this. Because of this we didn't use it much and all I did was make sure I rest it every few days so it didn't freeze over the winter. I've had a tech out to look at it - he first told me it was a flow issue because of slime in the lines and told me to run Clean Start through it, clean the filter and drain and restart. He said that would take care of it. I did that and it ran for 3 days and the heater shut down. I called him back out and he said he couldn't figure out why it was doing this but changed the circ pump to see if that helped. It didn't - it ran for 4 days and shut down. When it's working the Hi Limit Light is red and the Heater Power light is green and no other lights are on. I have little confidence in the tech that has looked at it and am notgoing to keep paying for service visits that don't do anything. Like I said when it's shut down the only light I get is the D17 LED. Is there something about this that tells me anything?
  7. Hi there! We recently bought a house that came with a 14-year-old Tiger River Spa Bengal that appeared to be in excellent condition. It was set to 97 and the system panel showed "READY". And putting my hand in the water, the water did feel heated. I never had a hot tub before so I went to a local Hot Springs Spas dealer and they gave me a great run down of what I had to do. First step was draining and refilling. I shut down the power and drained it and removed the filter etc. I refilled the tub through the filter compartment. Once that was done, I put the filter back in and fired up the power. Control panel, jets, light came on fine but the heater didn't seem to kick in. The water remained at 78 even after hours of waiting. So I start googling. I tried removing the filter. I rebooted a few times. I removed the panelling and checked under the hood. There was a "Heater Reset Switch". I punched it and I did feel a click. I thought I figured it out but alas, the heater still wouldn't kick in. The switch didn't trip, though. I'm unable to reset it again at this point. Anyway, I opened up the box containing the board. Something called a "D9" is blinking RED. A "D10" is solid green. "LIM OK" is solid green. And "HTR ON" is solid red. I kinda assume that that guy means "heater on" and should be solid green... I took some photos: https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG3CaDy I have a service guy come on Tuesday, but I'd love to fix it myself and cancel the appointment. The question is, can I fix it myself or does this require some advanced skills. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!!!
  8. I have a gecko in-yj-2 control system and the heater seems to be damaged. Now there is a 3 kw heat.wav that I could use. Is it compatible with my control system?
  9. I got a used hot springs prodigy H from someone. I finished hooking it up yesterday and filled it through the filter housing with a hose. It ran perfectly fine, heated, jets all ran fine. I put system flush in to clean out the jets since it had been sitting. I then drained the water out. When I refilled it, I thought it would be smart to siphon water through a hose from my pool so it would start out clean, I did put it into the filter housing, but slow flow with the siphon. When I powered up the spa again, you could hear the spa start up then it stopped and the control panel red light started flashing and nothing was operative anymore. I turned the power off overnight, took the gray standpipe out, put a hose down in the hole and covered with a rag around the hose, turned the hose on and it forced a big air bubble out the bottom return and I let that water run for about 30 seconds. Put pipe and filter back in and turned on power and it still blinks red, now it doesn't even sound like it tries anything, it will start blinking within 5-10 seconds. I don't think my heater has a reset button, I couldn't find it anyway. Any ideas?
  10. My Coast Spa is nothing but trouble. Today's issue is that the system is reporting that the Heater is Too Hot. But the system has been in rest mode and low temperature and the water is cold. The B sensor was reporting hot so I replaced that sensor. After which both sensors seem nominal and in sync. Shortly thereafter the A sensor reports hot. Then the B sensor reports hot. So neither stable nor in sync. I have unplugged the sensors and rebooted. But the system is rebooting to a Heater Too Hot status. I suspect now a logic board issue (which would be my 4th board in 6 years). Thoughts or suggestions? And now it will not poser up even to the Heater Too Hot status. Instead, all LEDs blink.
  11. Hello, Looking for a little troubleshooting assistance for my 2010 HotSpring Jetsetter spa. This morning i noticed that my temperature had dropped from 100 to 90 degrees. Both the Ready and Power lights on the control panel are blinking in unison. I have tried resetting the spa numerous times by unplugging it and letting it sit for a few hours, same issue when i plug it in. I have removed the filters, run the pump to see if there was an airlock, but same thing. Filter are TriX and they are spotless so it is not a clogged filter. I have also run water through the grey standpipe to try and remove any air bubbles. My cir pump developed a crack last month and i replaced it at the time and all was working fine. The cir pump is running fine, the lights and the jets work, just no heat. Trying to determine if i need a new heater or another new part related to the heater. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thank you so much. jv
  12. Hey there folks. I'm quite perplex with this issue and hope someone else can make sense of it. Board installed is a Balboa VS500z Running out of a 2007 Hydrospa, without issue to this point, the heater went a few weeks ago causing the GFCI to trip. I verified this with no resistance through the heating element (opposed to the normal 13-14ohm) I didn't have parts on hand and it was relatively inexpensive for a technician to come over and replaced the element. He did so without issue and everything seemed fine. Last week the GFCI randomly tripped again. Tried troubleshooting the issue now that I had some spare time and it seemed to point back to the new heater but with a twist. The heater was showing continuinity and the proper resistance, it would trip when connected. With the heater disconnected for troubleshooting, the lower tandem relay wasn't passing voltage through it when the heater light was on, so I assumed it was toasted. Pulled the board, replaced the relay and the one above it for good measure and reinstalled everything. The new heating element still showed solid resistance and it wasn't in contact with the heater tube. GFCI tripped again. I replaced the heater assembly (sensors and element as well) with a spare unit that I picked up for a good price, just for trouble shooting, and the tub fired back up. Went through its internal tests successfully and then resumed normal operation for about 2 minutes and then tripped again. Everything else seems to run normally (circ pump, ozone, jet pump, light, and blower), GFCI stays powered with everything but the heater hooked up. Even the heater terminals are showing 240-250v when powered. In both cases the heater still showed good continuity and resistance. Is it possible I've tested 2 bogus heaters or is something else at play here? None of the solder joints on the board looked burnt or "cold soldered". Any information would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.
  13. Hello, I have a Tiger River Caspian (2005), 230 volt, 50 amp. It developed a slow leak (5-7 days) that would drop the water level to about the bottom of the filter compartment intake. It was hard to identify the leak from the equipment compartment so we had a guy out who replaced all the check valves. Leak continued, so he replaced the Ozonator and the Heater. The leak was solved temporarily but from that time forward the heater GFCI would trip pretty often, which he just said to live with (I notice this seems to happen every time I top off the spa now). Within the year, the leak came back and again it stops at the exact same spot (top of filter intake compartment, which is also bottom of upper bench and at bottom of first jet counterclockwise from filter). I'm perplexed - would like to give this a shot myself, as it doesn't seem like a new jet leak given it's duplicate of before, but I don't want all my spas guts replaced by this dude for another $1500 only to have the ongoing GFCI trip as well, potentially, returning leak. On inspection, I do not see any leaking water around the heater. Does this sound like a check valve somewhere? Any thoughts more than welcome! Thanks.
  14. I'm running a 2004 Hot Springs Sovereign I in 110v mode. It's been working great, but recently I'm getting the red/green flashing light condition. I've confirmed that the circulation pump is working ok but the heater-integrated pressure switch seems to be malfunctioning. I found a helpful YouTube video showing how to disconnect the heater pressure switch and insert an inline Sundance/Jacuzzi flow switch instead, in order to avoid replacing the entire heater. It seems to me that installing the flow switch *before* the heater (i.e. between the circulation pump and the heater) would make the most sense, since the flowing water would typically be about 100 degrees at that point. But in the video and on a couple of spa flow diagrams I've seen, the flow switch is installed *after* the heater, where the temperature would be hotter. In my situation that would be less convenient, because the heater output hose is farther back and not as readily accessible, but more importantly, it seems like the plastic parts on the flow switch might last longer on the heater input side where the water temperature is lower. What is the conventional wisdom about where the flow switch should go relative to the heater? Are there advantages to one side or the other? Am I missing something? Thanks for any insights or guidance.
  15. My Jandy LT Heater of 9 years has started having problems - namely, that it won't start from the OneTouch remote or the service panel. The OneTouch LED turns red and it appears that the heater is running (but its not). The "heater" light on the service panel also lights up as if its on. No luck. However, if I push the "spa" button on the LT itself, it goes green and fires up within a minute or two. Any ideas what may be going on here? I've checked the wiring in the AquaLink and it doesn't look loose or disconnected. No spiderwebs or ants, etc. My thinking is that the signal isn't making it from the remote or service panel to the LT "telling" it to fire up. So how can I check this? I'm assuming that there's a board in the LT that the AquaLink "talks" to. I took the cover off the heater, but couldn't see any connection to check. Any suggestions? Thanks, Tim
  16. I'm having an OHH code on my beachcomber hot tub I just replaced the smaller pump as the last one burned out. I filled from the filter housing, opened the bleed screw and drained all the air through there, everything seemed okay last night but when I checked it this morning it was still cold and there was a SNB code I pulled the sensor out (lots of water no air) and also unplugged it and sprayed with electrical contact cleaner Now instead of a SNB code I'm getting the OHH as soon as I turn on the breaker even if it has sat for a few minutes I also tried unplugging the b sensor and there was still an OHH code right away. Maybe needed more time to reset though ? Hoping it's not a circuit board. Don't really wanna keep throwing parts at it. Everything was working fine before the pump burnt out Any help appreciated ! Thanks!
  17. I just picked up a 1998 Dakota Skyler with a 4kW heater controlled by a Balboa LiteLD CCAJ board. The heater wasnt working, was corroded... I replaced it with a new 4W coil. Still no heat. Temp probe is good, pressure sensor is good. I'm wired on 240V. Pump works on both speeds. Supply AC is correct. Heater measures 120VAC above ground on BOTH sides when call for heat is on (heat light on panel on). Both sides of heating coil are 120 V above ground, 240 V above black, and 0V above red. Thus 0V across the heater coil and no heat. So both sides of the coil are electrically connected to red and no voltage difference across them. I pulled the board out. It has 5 relays. The coils on 4 of them measure about 260 Ohms each, and one shows no continuity. Thus I presume a bad relay (th ed relay that connects to one side of the heater coil). The contactors on the relays work fine, as each tested well with a meter. I reinstalled the board and manually tripped the relay that I suspect is dead. However that did not change the voltage readings across the heater as I hoped it would. I've ordered a couple new relays. But I could use some advice!! What can anyone recommend? It would be much better with heat!! Thanks much!! Eric
  18. Hi team! I have a balboa hot tub. I have had to replace the heater twice in the last 8 months. I know that this shouldn’t be the case. They seem to last 4-6 months before blowing (trip the board and ohm tests show no current running through element). They don’t seem to show any obvious sign of damage, maybe just a bit of white and green around the connections. Does anyone know why the heaters don’t seem to be lasting too long? I am about to order another heater but wondering if I need to check or replace any other parts? could poor water health cause this? Your help would be greatly appreciated! Many Thanks
  19. So we are trying to start our hot tub after a couple of years of it being off. We filled it with water to prime it, we tried turning it on on the fuse panel. We get a code of the top screen panel saying “Pr” and the heater is making a clicking sound like a turn signal in a car. VS501 Balboa IMG_3394.MP4
  20. Hi All, I'm nearing the point where I turn this tub into a planter. I went out to test the water for NYE festivities, and while the temp was set to 89, the actual temp was 84. The 24 HR circulation pump was running strong. I removed the control panel cover and opened the spa-pac and I could visibly see one of the connections to the heater sizzling/arcing. I shut down the GFCI immediately and took these pictures. I can't be sure how long this was happening but I haven't opened the cover in 2 days. It may have been going on for a while. This is a Thermospa -Manhattan (not sure that matters), with a balboa board and heater. I'm assuming the board has been ruined, but can someone give me a better sense of what might have been damaged? I actually have a spare board that came with the tub. Any thoughts as to a cause? I've been running this heater for a few months now with no issues at all. I don't see any water damage on the board and everything is dry under the tub. Does the heater need to be replaced? How do I check on the heater's state. I'm so frustrated right now. I need to settle down and think clearly. It doesn't help that here in MA we are approaching deep freeze weather so I need to fish or cut bait with this repair, else risk the water freezing. No such thing as a 'free' hot tub. And I just got the bleach/dichlor method down perfect. Thanks, Rob
  21. Details: 2001 Cal Spa Genesis 110v Last week I installed a new 1.5 hp hydromaster motor/pump with new unions, new flow switch, new Clear Blue Ionizer and a new filter When I first turned it on, it heated to 104. The next day I went out and it was 100 and the heater light wasn't on but the water was circulating as if it were heating. I got in and ran the pump on hi and adjusted the temp. When I turned the jets off the heater turned on, but the next morning it was off again. I unplugged it and it didn't heat when restarted. Pump is running, as it would when it is heating. I cleaned the filter, ran it without the filter, cleaned the in tub strainers, checked for air lock, adjusted the switch, disconnected the switch and still, it won't heat. I also ran a jumper wire between the flow switch connections and got the FL code. Reconnected the switch and no code. The cover is keeping the heat in really well, so I don't think it's losing heat and can't keep up. Any ideas on next steps are greatly appreciated!
  22. Hi All, I am a new member and in need of some help. I have a 2 year old Jandy LRZE 250 natural gas heater, wired for 220V, that will not stay lit. The problems began the first year of use, just after the warranty expired and have continued to worsen. The igniter glows bright orange, the gas valve energizes and the heater lights for 3 seconds then turns off. This cycle continues 3-4 times then I receive an error message "Ign Fault" Eventually the heater will light, but this can take anywhere from a few minutes to several hours. I have read through the formuforums and found the flame sensors are problematic. I inspected the flame sensor rod. It appeared a bit crusty, so I cleaned it. No help. I noticed the wire attached to the flame sensor had several broken strands, so I replaced it to no avail. I have read elsewhere the ignition control box is a common problem, which was also replaced, with no improvement. I had the plumber who installed the gas line check the gas pressure. He "says" it is within specifications. I was not present when the test was done so I do not have numbers. I have inspected the heater for debris which may restrict airflow, as noted in the user manual. No restrictions were found. Any thoughts? George
  23. My hot tub only heats for a while then stops it will not reach the selected temperature. Do you think it’s the thermostat I need to replace?
  24. Hey when powering up my spa after being shut off for refilling. A message comes up on the top screen “J29” then says priming. once the normal spa screen comes up the message of “possible freezing conditions” appears. And pumps cycle on and off. the j29 is a jumper message and in the manual it says shortened durning power up and heater will not run until J29 is no longer shortened anyone have any suggestions Thanks
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