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Found 13 results

  1. Hello everyone, Jonas from germany here. I´ve got a Mspa delight Aurora 06 Whirlpool. I bought it about 2 years ago. Now the Heater seems like to be very weak. The Heater needs 4-5 Days to heat the water up to 38 degrees Celcius. I cleaned up everthink, also the pump system. I completely dismounted everything. There wasn´t too much dirt in it. Can anybody help me with that? Thanks!
  2. I replaced my heater relay have power coming in but still no power to heater
  3. I have a pool heater with a 6" vent pipe that is routed through a wood picket fence. I am concerned that the heat from the pipe will damage the wood and potentially be a fire hazard. Is there a recommended insulation material that I can use around the hold in the fence that the pipe passes through that insulates the wood? I'm thinking of something like a pool noodle that I can slip over the edges of the fence boards, but made of a heat resistant ceramic/silicone material. Any suggestions?
  4. Background: I have a freeflow tlx with Balboa 54115 Board set to run on 110v. I got it used and not working. I think the guy i got it from got it broken from someone else and couldn't fix it. This is my first experience with a spa. After consulting the wiring diagram, correcting some reversed wires and calibrating the pressure switch, all seems normal. The real problem was poor job of replacing the onboard fuse leading to intermittent board function which i repaired. Question: In a state were its below temperature set point: when I switch the pump to high speed, it stops calling for heat. Returning to low speed, it calls for heats again. Is this normal? Theories: 1. The higher flow rate may be faulting the pressure sensor. 2. Something else is wired wrong. (I found several incorrectly wired connectons to the control board. Its almost like this guy was just trying everything or someone sabatoged it.) 3. Some circuit is fried on the boad because of the situation noted in number 2. 4. Its normal operation for this contoller to cut the heat in high jet mode. Thanks in advance for any advice. -Jim
  5. Just Purchased a new hot springs rythm. after a day it was at 102, which I had set it too. however after using it for 30 minutes, it won’t maintain a temp over 98 degrees - usually around 97. it was pretty cold out, 25, but we’ve never had this issue in the past. any suggestions? The lcd doesn’t display is the heater is on or off, so I’m not sure when it’s actually heating.
  6. if heat pumps for swimming pools are supposed to be hardwired does that mean that i cannot disconnect them from the supply for winter and put away? or move the heat pump to another location/house? does it also mean that an electrician must connect it and disconnect it every time?
  7. Hello. I've got an older CalSpa 2000 and it runs well during the summer, heating to 100+ degrees as needed, but the outdoor temps tended to be from 75-95 degrees. It appeared to heat well simply by having the cover on, but I noticed if I had the temp set to 100, it would drop to mid-90s even during the summer. The pump would run constantly and the heat light would never come on unless I turned the pump to high speed with the "jets" button and that only lasts about 15 minutes each time. So, I'd have to wait around and hit the jets button every so often to get it to (and keep it at) the desired temperature. During this last winter (I'm in Michigan), I could not get it to heat above 78 degrees, even while "activating" the heat with the jets on. My thought is it should heat to temperature regardless of whether the jets are on high or not. I'm not getting any errors codes and it's certainly never overheated. Underheating is my issue. How can I fix this? Thanks.
  8. I have an early 90's 220v large ps-3 supra electric. If we're in it for more than an hour or so with jets on high the heat will shut off and the spa will cool down. If I just leave the next evening it's back to 104F from the filtration cycle and it's running hot again. The heat breaker is not tripped. I can generally tell what temp the spa thinks it's at by spinning the temp control and listening for when it clicks indicating its below the current temp. When this problem happens it acts as though it thinks it's at proper temp. This year I replaces the timer (timer motor stopped) and last year I replaced the heater element. Otherwise everything works great 99% of the time. The heat otherwise runs nice and hot now. I'm wondering if the thermostat could be dying and perhaps it's not as sensitive. -Robert
  9. Hi everybody, I recently purchased a Monterey Free Flow spa. All is good except the max is 104. I like a spa at 106 degrees. Any ideas how I can bypass the governor control on the panel and allow my heater to heat the spa to 106? Thank you!
  10. Hello all, I have never posted here and just thought I would give you all a try at helping me figure out whats going on with my hot tub.... We recently bought a house with a hot tub already in it. The hot tub was up and running when we bought it. I drained, cleaned and filled it and it ran perfect for about 2 months. One day I noticed the temp was at 100 and would not reach the 103 setting that I had it at. Thinking it was a flow issue, I changed the filter and it heated right back up and ran perfect for about 2 more weeks. It again dropped temp, but this time to 102 and would continually run at 102 and never turn off (trying to reach the 102 setting) . I bought a new filter and changed it with no luck as it still ran continually. I did a bit of research and changed both temp probes thinking they were sending a false temp reading. After I drained it, changed the probs, re-filled it it heated up to my 103 setting and turned off. The next day, the temp is again at 102 and runs continually trying to reach 103. I decided to pull the filter out and see if it was again a bad filter.... it ran at 102 for 2 hours continually and never reached 103. Im not sure what else is going on... anyone else have the same issue? Its a 2004 Colman Maxx Spa, 631 series.
  11. My Hot Springs Grandee was installed new in 1996 and other than the occasional fix-it visit by a spa technician, it's been working like a champ for 16 years. This past week we went to use it and found that the water was only around 95 degrees instead of its normal 103. Everything else looks completely normal. Both the red and green lights on the main panel are on, the temperature indicator says 103, pumps all work fine. I drained the spa, cleaned the filters, refilled, and turned everything back on. It heated right up to about 95 degrees and won't get any hotter. One noticeable difference is that the heater return, which normally puts out significant hot water (along with little bubbles) when the thermostat is tripped, now has a pretty anemic flow. The technician we usually use here in Northern California is booked up for two weeks and we have guests arriving this weekend. Is there a possible simple fix I'm missing, or do I just wait for the technician? Thanks.
  12. Bought what I'd guess to be an old Hot Spot SE from an old acquaintance's Craigslist ad. My parents had a fancy Hot Spring model when I was a kid so I said "how hard could this be?" Turns out hard when you know nothing about the hot tub. I can't find an owners manual online. There isn't a digital thermostat to know the temp settings and I don't know if it has a temp sensor to heat or if the jets need to be running. Anyone else have one of these oldies?
  13. I have acquired a Jacuzzi spa, and I am experiencing some problems. It is a z145/345, 240000. It has a Balboa board R574 with a 4kw heating element. It was wired for 115v, and I field converted it to 230v system, following instructions labeled on the inside cover of the control unit. I installed it using a 50w GFCI dedicated circuit breaker, with a 60 amp rated disconnect outside. All things are wired correctly. Pump works correctly, topside controls work correctly, and I heat very well. The problem I have is overheating of the water. The high limit sensor worked, because when it hit 112 degrees, power was shut off to the whole unit. I have tested the power output to the heater, and it is always on, even after reaching set point. When the water reaches the set point, the LED light on the topside controller shuts off, I can hear a contactor release, but 240 stays going to the heating element. I tried a new temp sensor, and had no success. I followed recommendations online, disconnected the topside controller after reaching set point, and still no success. I can manually release one contactor, and 240w is eliminated from the heater, but 120w remains. Something is not telling the heater to turn off, and I am wondering what else I can look for. I would appreciate any feedback in this matter.
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