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Showing results for tags 'flow switch'.
Found 3 results
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I'm running a 2004 Hot Springs Sovereign I in 110v mode. It's been working great, but recently I'm getting the red/green flashing light condition. I've confirmed that the circulation pump is working ok but the heater-integrated pressure switch seems to be malfunctioning. I found a helpful YouTube video showing how to disconnect the heater pressure switch and insert an inline Sundance/Jacuzzi flow switch instead, in order to avoid replacing the entire heater. It seems to me that installing the flow switch *before* the heater (i.e. between the circulation pump and the heater) would make the most sense, since the flowing water would typically be about 100 degrees at that point. But in the video and on a couple of spa flow diagrams I've seen, the flow switch is installed *after* the heater, where the temperature would be hotter. In my situation that would be less convenient, because the heater output hose is farther back and not as readily accessible, but more importantly, it seems like the plastic parts on the flow switch might last longer on the heater input side where the water temperature is lower. What is the conventional wisdom about where the flow switch should go relative to the heater? Are there advantages to one side or the other? Am I missing something? Thanks for any insights or guidance.
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Details: 2001 Cal Spa Genesis 110v Last week I installed a new 1.5 hp hydromaster motor/pump with new unions, new flow switch, new Clear Blue Ionizer and a new filter When I first turned it on, it heated to 104. The next day I went out and it was 100 and the heater light wasn't on but the water was circulating as if it were heating. I got in and ran the pump on hi and adjusted the temp. When I turned the jets off the heater turned on, but the next morning it was off again. I unplugged it and it didn't heat when restarted. Pump is running, as it would when it is heating. I cleaned the filter, ran it without the filter, cleaned the in tub strainers, checked for air lock, adjusted the switch, disconnected the switch and still, it won't heat. I also ran a jumper wire between the flow switch connections and got the FL code. Reconnected the switch and no code. The cover is keeping the heat in really well, so I don't think it's losing heat and can't keep up. Any ideas on next steps are greatly appreciated! -
I have an aqua rite board with a hayward T-15 cell, both new within about 6 months, and a flow switch that is probably about 5 years old. I do have good levels of chlorine in the pool, so I know the cell is generating. Power lights and generating lights all come lit appropriately, and all levels when I scroll through the diagnostics look good (current >5, voltage, salt, etc) Instant salt level is 3200ppm and confirmed with independent test. My problem is that my board/cell continue to generate after my pump has stopped running. hours after my pump has stopped, my average salt levels continue to drop until the average salt reading goes 2700, 2600, etc so the low salt and inspect cell lights blink and occasionally the values have dropped to as low as 1600 due to the pump being off and the averages dropping so low. Is this simply because my flow switch has gone bad and the cell continues to generate even with no flow, because the switch doesn't stop the generation when the flow stops? Any ways to confirm? other possibilities? other thoughts? Thanks!