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Found 21 results

  1. Good morning, Yesterday I purchased a Hot Springs hot tub which should be delivered in the next couple weeks. I have existing wiring for the old hot tub I had removed, but the wire gauge is only 10, and my new tubs manual suggests 8ga, but I also need 4 conductors, where the old only had 3. So my question is this. My new spa requires 50a to run, so I'll be buying new breakers for that. The manual also suggests 8ga wire for 2 hots and a neutral and 10ga for ground, but I had thought 8ga copper was only rated to 40 amps. A lot of wire suppliers say that even 6ga wire is only rated to 45 amps. So am I needing 8ga, 6ga, or even 4ga?
  2. Hi All, We've had this issue for awhile now with several repair shops coming out to try and figure out the issue, all without resolve. See the GIF here to see the outcome of (what I think) the electrical short. The tub was at 56 degrees yesterday at 9AM and was heating mostly all day until it reached 102 degrees around 7PM. I thought it was a heater issue or maybe the pump, but now I'm not so sure. The breaker connected to the hot tub does NOT trip when this happens, and I'm unable to turn on the jets or lights. Around 11PM, the hot tub started to cycle by turning the pumps on then off, and became quicker. When I arrived at the tub, the control panel looked like the GIF above. I'm starting to think that the control panel itself is shorting when water is able to soak in around the edges. Any ideas? Thank you, Todd
  3. Hi there, I have aquired a Chinese unbranded hot tub that is approx 8 years old. It had been standing drained and unused, for approx 6 months before we got it but was assured it worked before being drained. After making all the electrical connections it was tripping the RCD. I have disconnected all the pumps and heater from the relay board and the control panel now powers up fine. I have however tested the relays with a multimeter and it appears that they are stuck on closed (powered). I have concerns that the pumps ( Whirlpool LP200) are also faulty as they appear to have continuity on the cables feeding them between Phase and neutral - I assume this is incorrect however all pumps as well as the heater test like this??? Note - the cable that feeds the heater appears that it may have got hot in the past inside the control box as it had become brittle. This shad now been cut back ready for reterminating. Do I need new pumps / heater all round or am I missing something?? Thanks Sam
  4. We recently bought a Masterspa LSX from about 2004. The circulation pump had been completely rusted and seized, so after replacing it and fixing a few leaks, it seems to run good as new. I noticed on the control board dip switches there is a setting for the circ pump to only run when the temperature falls below 3 degrees of the setpoint. The manufactures default setting is to run 24 hours. I changed the switches according to the setting for the 3 hour temp threshold, reset the breaker, and waited, but it still runs constantly despite the temperature. Am I missing a step here? Thank you for your time.
  5. I have a pool light (no others) which will not turn on. The GFCI would trip immediately after I flip the switch on. My setup is this: I have a timer box with circuit breakers and one GFCI receptacle. The light and pool pump are not tied to the timer, only my chlorine generator is. The pump is not connected to the GFCI, only the light is. I turned off the circuit breaker that is dedicated to the light. I was going to plug a hair dryer into the circuit breaker and leave the light switch off to see if something other than the light would trip the GFCI. However, after turning the circuit breaker back on with the light switch off (several times), the GFCI acted like it had no power. The reset button would stay in and the test button would do nothing. I tried the hair dryer and it would not turn on. I measured the circuit breaker from the input to neutral and got 118 v when it was turned on. I cannot immediately measure at the GFCI due to its positioning. I will have to remove it. With this symptom, can the issue still be downstream of the GFCI or is it more likely that the GFCI is broken, especially since it initially would trip and the test button would work? Should I remove the load wires to test this?
  6. My tub was running fine. I shut it down for a good spring cleaning purging it with ahhsome. I cleaned the tub and filled it, now when I try to turn the GFCI on it trips after about one second. Does anyone have an idea why it would be fine yesterday and today not reset on startup.
  7. I am expecting delivery of Beachcomber "Copper Cove" soon. It is rated at 55 amps and calls for #6/3 and no longer a length of wire than 70'. Well, That aint happening because the shortest distance that I can possibly run service from the main breaker box to a cut-off to the tub is about 140'. So, my plan (indeed I have implemented most already...I guess I'm just looking for reassurance or a wave-off if I am asking for trouble) is to run #6 wire (red, white, black, and green) all in individual insulation within a 1" PVC conduit from the GFCI breaker cut-off to the tub itself. That distance is 50'. This part is done. So, now I am trying to decide between using more 6/3 as above for the 75' run from the main breaker (240v/2 pole) to the GFCI cut-off, or if I should use 4/3 for that run. My hot tub shut-off has room for not only the 60-amp hot tub breaker but also 2 additional 20 amp GFCI breakers, both of which I intend to run a couple ceiling fans, a few LED light fixtures, and a couple of wall outlets from one day in the future when I get my patio built. If it was not for this intention, I think 6/3 the entire length may just make it...but that isn't going to be the case. Also, I am pouring my pad this week and I have heard I should ground the re-bar in the pad with a grounding rod and also ground the tub itself to that same bar. I have heard to also ground the Cut-Off panel with a copper rod, and of course make sure a ground wire goes from the hot tub to the cut-off panel to the main breaker. How does this sound and does anybody see a better way of doing things?
  8. Ok to begin this post I need to apologize for the sad story and the length of my post….I honestly don’t want yall to think I am shoveling a sob story…Now that’s out of the way let me tell you what is going on. I am a mother of four kids. I have a son who has neurofibromatosis type 1 and Noonan’s syndrome and is disabled. He is a thriving college student that works around all of his challenges including tumors on his arm, brain and spine. He has pain every day. They thought he had cerebral palsy when he was a baby and after many years of physical therapy he was a cross country runner in high school. I have fibromyalgia, rheumatoid arthritis and a brain tumor along with several other rare diseases that left me disabled at 28. I am 38 now and I suffer daily with pain. I have also been on oral steroids twice a day for 10 years. It sucks. I am fat and miserable. I spent many years on narcotic medications…enough to kill a horse and his wife. I am off all my medication and I am looking for alternatives. The steroids, Blood clots in my lungs and a year of being bed bound from an injury to my leg…..I am over 300 pounds and exercise kills me. I need a pool….Sorry. Went off into a day dream… Where was I? Oh yeah… Hot tubs are a therapy tool for us and also brings much needed relief. A Morgan spa was given to us. It is a large one with 98 jets. It needed two new motors witch I replaced. The spa pack melted after several months of use. I got another one. A balboa vs501sz. I am the one who connected everything. I am savvy around the house…the only income we have is my disability so learning how to do everything has been a way of life. So this is what happens…. Morgan spa Balboa vs501sz AquaFlo xpe2 and xp2 You turn on the power. The spa pack clicks and enters priming mode. Nothing will come on. If I unplug the pump 1 from the board I am able to run the blower and pump 2 but pump 2 is not pumping at speed. Like half capacity. Also when I turn on the blower the pump slows more and you can tell there is a strain on the power source. Also… not all the jets have water running thru them when the blower is on. It does not matter where I move the pump one plug to….it will not come on. I am pretty sure I have a clog or an air lock but I don’t think that’s all that is going on. Also the heater comes on and tries to heat the water and the temperature rapidly goes up on the panel and the tub turns off or I get the DRY error message. I am struggling here. I am about ready to set the darn thing on fire. I work on it all the time and nothing. AI am so frustrated. I spent a lot of money to have brand new everything and it has not worked one time yet….Retrofit kit they said. Basically plug and play they said. Brand new spa pack and pumps….it will work like a dream they said. Keep in mind that It set for about two years while I was buying and paying out each new piece. I cannot afford anything else for this thing and I can not afford paying someone to fix or work on it. I lay awake night after night praying that the next day it will work and I can disappear in the bubbly goodness and my pain can abate for a short period. My son does as well and I cant stand to see him suffering. Please help me. Point me in some sort of direction.
  9. My hot tub is 3 years old and has a ClearRay UV sanitizer system installed. I have changed the UV bulb once, about 8 months ago. When the filtration pump is running then the ClearRay system signals that is working by illuminating two indicator lights. Both of the lights are out and I am wondering how I should start troubleshooting the system. Thanks in advance.
  10. Hello, I have a 1999 Sundance optima Spa. i recently bought a SpaCuzn Core insert from the manufacturer. Long story short, it was the incorrect size, and got sucked in the intake. The pump shut down. I shut the breaker off immediately. We drained the tub and retrieved the filter inset and put the tub back together. At the time of the incident, the pump was only 7 months old. Afterwards, the pump felt like it had diminished flow, but was working on both a low and a high speed. About a month later, the pump stopped working all together. We drained the tub once again, and after taking pump apart, we discovered that in the process of the insert getting sucked into the intake, it broke part of the plastic filter housing and that small piece of plastic also got sucked into the impeller and had been rolling around in there this whole time. We just replaced the pump with a brand new one. We were excited to get back up and running, but are having having the same problem - we push the button on the panel and it shows both 1 and 2 speed, we hear a click and the pump does not turn on. So, draining the tub again and are in search whatever part we need. Any ideas?? Thank you!
  11. Good afternoon ... I had to pull my spa pack to replace the pressure switch and decided to do the heater at the same time. While I was pulling things apart I noticed that the phone cord type connector to the top site control panel had some rodent damage that appeared to be old. I put the spa back together and now all the lights on the control are lit up and is is displaying "88888" as well as some other things. Up until this point I thought the controller was working properly. The buttons control the proper function and everything else on the spa seems to be working properly. Would it be safe to assume that me messing around with the tub aggravated the damaged wires causing this? Is is possible to simply replace the phone cord connector? Thanks! Jeff
  12. To save power and as a fun project I'd like to make a remote interface for my 2005 Hot Spring Sovereign so I can adjust the temperature from my phone. It has an IQ2020 controller which has an i2c interface. Do you know how I can get a manual documenting this interface? Or is there someone in the SF Bay Area with a Navigator RF Remote which I can watch operate using a Saleae logic analyzer? Can you help in any other way? So far I've been decoding the messages on the bus using a python script, but it will take a while to work out enough of the bits to have confidence to start sending messages back. I'm guessing the controller reads from the remote on 7-bit address 18, 3E, 36, or 44. I've only seen the remotes on sale for >$400, pricy given that I expect the parts for a wireless internet remote to be under $100. I understand that I am likely voiding the warranty but suspect fiddling with i2c is fairly low risk of damage beyond what can be fixed by power cycling or replacing the controller board. I found a similar thread from years ago, but it seems to have died. Thanks!
  13. We are having a Softub 300 delivered this week. I have a question about the electrical part of this. I know we can plug this into a regular outlet, we have one that is on the wall outside the house. The receptacle on the house has a metal cover, but is not weatherproof while in use. So I know we'll need to replace that, but I was looking at the softub cords have the thick GCFI circuit box on the end, how on earth do you protect that box from the weather?? Or do I not need to??
  14. Had some work done to the spa lately and not sure if I really trust the guy that worked on it 100%. At least his memory is bad. I have two panels in my garage...one for regular house...one for the 220 stuff including SPA, and the circuit breaker has a GFCI as part of it. THEN, I have another 'panel' thing near the hot tub with breakers for the hot tub, and another GFCI thing. How many of those do I need? Spa guy says the one in the spa panel needs replacing...says it may have been causing an issue with my spa's heater basically never turning off. First time he was here he looked at the one in the main panel and said I was all good. Now he says that other one needs to be replaced for fear of electrocution. Thanks in advance.
  15. Hey all, I'm hoping you guys might be able to help out as my limited knowledge has run out of troubleshooting ideas: I have a 2005 Cal Spa that recently stopped working. No power running to it at all as if the breaker was off (which it isn't). Here's what I've noticed: About a week before it broke, I went out to use it a noticed it was off totally. Checked breakers and everything was fine. I suspected the outdoor breaker so went back and forth switching both outdoor and indoor breakers on and off in different orders, and finally it kicked on and worked great that night. I didn't think much of it at the time... A week later I went out and same problem: no power at all, except this time tripping and resetting the breakers didn't work. I'm sure the breakers are good as the outside one is GFCI and trips when I hit the test button. I also pulled the panel off and used my multimeter to assure power was running into the tub. So now having located the problem to something inside the tub, I started to use my multimeter to check fuses, connections, etc to see if anything obvious was broken (which it didn't seem to be). However, the original transformer looked pretty ratty and dated to me, so I ordered a new one and crossed my fingers that was the problem. New one arrived today and still no luck with the power. Now, here's where things get weird: With the new transformer installed, I started going contact to contact with my multimeter trying to trace the spot in the circuit where power runs out. In the process, I noticed that if I had my multimeter prongs on the board in the spot highlighted in the picture below and set to 200 ACV, nothing would happen but power was running to that spot. Then if I kept contact to that same spot and turned my multimeter dial over to the Ohms settings, the tub will make a little "click" noise and turn on like normal. The display shows an "01" then an "11" then the default temp setting "100" and then to the current temp of the water "86", and then totally loses power like before, all within maybe like 5 seconds...I'm not sure if this is normal or not since any other time I've turned it on from being off at the breaker I have been over at the box and not looking directly at the display. A google search and manual read didn't yield anything helpful about what the "01" and "11" could mean... I'm pretty stumped at this point. Is there some faulty trip switch I'm not seeing that is getting clicked over when I adjust the power slightly with my multimeter attached? My electrical knowledge is just enough to be dangerous so I don't know what other things it could be. Thanks for the time reading though my problem and helping out if you can. I really appreciate it! -Mike
  16. My old Hayward Super II has been leaking for a long time and I decided to do something about it. I watched some videos on You Tube and opened up the pump. I replaced the gaskets and shaft seal and applauded myself when it didn’t leak anymore. Until the next morning when it started up again and there was an even bigger leak. I took it apart and put it back together multiple times, never getting rid of the leak. On my attempt yesterday, it worked for a couple of minutes and then the pump clicked off. I took the pump to a local shop. When they hooked it up to power, it sparked. It turned out that two of the wires to the capacitor were rubbed by the mechanism at the back of the shaft and the protective coating was worn away leaving bare metal. The tech first suggested that I stop working on it and get a variable speed pump (I’m considering it). He said that the capacitors both looked fine and that I could probably tape up the wires (he said he wasn’t allowed to do it) and that the pump should work for a while. I took the pump home, put electrical tape on the bare sections of the wires, and hooked the pump up and nothing happened. Any thoughts? I am not willing to put much money into this--if I have to, I'll go ahead and buy a variable speed. I know all about the rebate from our electric company and the benefits of the variable speed. It's the upfront cost when I've got other bills, like food, mortgage, college tuitions, etc.
  17. Hi everyone, first post here and looking for some help. I just bought a used spa that the previous owner had wired for 120v. It looks like going to 240v is a simple matter of using 240v supply. The cover for the electrical connections has 2 boxes printed on the outside: one says 240v-4 wires (N, L1, L2, G); second one says 120v-3 wires (N/L1,G). I have taken the cover of the controls off and see nothing that leads me to believe more needs to be done. Is it possible to be wired internally that just adding the second live wire will work? I have pictures, but am not sure if they can be psoted here. Thanks for reading and helping...JDanW
  18. VS501Z Balboa electrical Our Balboa system did not seem to filter long enough to clear the water after chemical addition, staining the seats, floor, walls. so we decided to put a switch to activate the pump while the spaguts was off. Something went wrong with the installation and on the first activation the main fuse (30A) blew. (fuse was replaced, and all other fuses checked ok) So now upon activation the Balboa displays its ID and gets to the "PR" mode and the jets light on the panel goes on. To prime, pressing the jets button activates the relays, but not the motor. So I checked the line voltage to find that when the Balboa is powered up, the motor voltage is 120volts (shoudn't it be '0'?) When PR is showing, the voltage will go to 240, but as I say the motor will not work. Would anyone know if I may have fused the contacts on a 110V relay that goes to the low motor speed. and which relay that is. (K1, or K6, likely, but it would better to know. Is there a better analysis? Would appreciate any advice. Thanks Paul
  19. I have three problems that all happened together concerning my spa equipment. 1) The blower will not start. I suspect it is an electrical problem, as when I turn the switch absolutely nothing happens. I have reset the breaker in the panel board and checked the wiring inside the blower. What seemed odd is that the switch only had a red wire hooked up to it (as well as the green ground). The black was not connected to anything. See picture below. Did something happen internally? 2) My spa pump is will not start. For the past two days, it had been working but at an extremely loud noise, which I suspected was the bearing. Just today, it fails to turn on and only makes a humming noise. After 10 seconds, the humming noise stops (no breaker was tripped). See link to video below. 3) My heater will not turn on. Is this because the pump is not turned on, and no water is flowing through it? Or are they completely independent? I have ensured that power is getting to the panel board next to my equipment, as my pool light works (same panel) as well as another outlet. My equipment is 8 years old. Pump: 2 HP Hayward Bay North Star Blower: Silencer 1HP http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMDEf-qnx0A
  20. Hi all, I'm looking for some advice. I just purchased as set a used Tiger River Bengel sap, 115v 20amp. Everything works but the circulating pump doesn't seem to be doing it's job. I've got jets, light, controls, filled it via the filter, when the jets are runnung the water started heating up. But without the jets there is no cirulation. What have I missed? Might I have a bad pump? Oh the red and green lights are both on when I open the control box. It's a 2007 model with two circuit boards. Thanks for any advice Jim
  21. We are new to hot tub ownership. Bought a used 2002 Hot Springs Vanguard. It took a couple weeks for the electrician to get to us and wire in the 20 and 30 amp box for power. We have noticed the tub is not heating, seems like it did early on, but it could have been the honeymoon stage we were in. We did the restart where you shut both amps off, the 20 first then the 30, let it sit for about 25 min and then turned on the 30, the jets would not work unless the 20 was on also. So now we are thinking the electrician maybe wired it wrong? Our outside temps have been 100 or higher, right now the tub water is 90. Not sure if there is anything we can check ourselves? Looks like maybe the heater is different, we found no reset button on it and there are extra screw holes on the floor of the base where the pump is. Also I am thinking the board may have been upgraded a year or two ago. Thanks for any help or suggestions you can offer. Happy 4th of July.
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