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Found 7 results

  1. Hi All, I have a question on using MPS with the bleach/dichlor method. I'd like to use some to assist the dichlor/bleach with oxidization. It sounds like a good idea to keep my chlorine demand low and there doesn't appear to be any significant downsides. My TA is low at 50ppm. My pH is good at 7.6 but I have seen it drift up at times with use so using MPS should also help me keep pH on the lower side if I understand correctly. I've also read that MPS can result in a false high combined chlorine reading. With my K-2006 test kit, I'd need to use the K-2041 to remove this interference. It's $30 for 3/4 of an oz.. How much of this deox reagent in K-2041 do I need to add during a CC test? How long would this K-2041 kit last with daily tests. I'm hoping to hear from people who use (or have decided not to use) MPS with bleach/dichlor and whether using it is worth the cost of dealing with the K-2041. Or if straight bleach is just as effective and easier overall, even if you need to use more. Thanks, Rob
  2. I have a 400gal hot tub with cover in socal. It runs to maintain 103deg. I have had it for 1 month. I generally have to add pH increaser once every other week. I shock once a week with non-chlorine shock oxidizer but it does not seem to do much to increase free chlorine. I add dichlor every other day, sometimes every day when the spa is often used. The problem is Cyanuric acid increases everytime I add dichlor and I have to replace 50% of water every month when Cyanuric acid is above 100 to keep Cyanuric acid level under 50. What can I do to reduce maintenance time I’ve been spending on my spa? Even if a service comes once a week that is not enough to keep clorine balanced. Any advice would be appreciated. David
  3. When using sodium dichlor in hot tub, is it okay to use sanitizing wipes with bleach to wipe down the edges of the spa above water?
  4. Hello - I have a 450gal tub that is 2 months old and I have a constant recurring issue. I filled the tub, added sodium bromide and shocked with MPS...I also have a bromine floater that is in the tub that I have set to "all the way open". I find it impossible to maintain a bromine readout from day to day. If I add dichlor I get a nice readout, but within 18 hours the readout goes to 0. Last night, I shocked w/MPS to try and reactivate the bromine. I will run a test strip tonight to see if there is anything, but the only thing I noticed this morning is that it made my water cloudy... Please help! UPDATE: Last night I was actually able to get a readout of bromine in my spa, which means something is finally working. The next question I have would be how do I maintain this level of bromine? Just keep shocking with MPS weekly, or is something else required more than that?
  5. posted on the wrong forum - please delete.
  6. Is there anyone using bulk Chlorinating Granules (Sodium dichlor-s triazinterione 99%) and Oxidizer (chlorine-free oxidizer) (Potassium peroxymonosulfate 42.8% ) chemicals like GLB,Pro Guard ,or in swim ? Every chemical place I call tells me they are not the same as spa chemicals but the chemical percent are the same. I have a Calspa with an acrylic shell.
  7. About 3 months ago I purchased a Jacuzzi J-345. Usage is light but frequent: I soak for 20 min every evening, and my wife joins me about half the time. Based on that and what I've read in this forum, I decided to switch from the Silk Balance system that came with the spa to dichlor-bleach when I changed the water three weeks ago. After the first week CYA was still undetectable (Taylor K-2006) so I continued to use dichlor. Adding a teaspoon after I soaked alone, and 1.5 teaspoons when my wife joined me kept FC at 3-5 ppm and CC near zero. After a second week of dichlor, CYA had increased to around 33 ppm, so I switched to bleach. After a little experimentation I've found that adding 2 oz after I soak alone and 3 oz after we both soak (6% bleach) keeps FC at 3-5 ppm I check FC, CC and pH at least once a day, and do a complete set of tests every Saturday. Today everything looked great except that CYA was back to under 20 ppm. The test sample was only slightly cloudy, and I could still make out the black dot with the cylinder completely full. I repeated the test to make sure, with the same result. Here are complete readings (Taylor K-2006): pH: 7.6 FC: 3.0 CC: none detected TA: 70 CH: 170 CYA: less than 20 ppm Borate: 50 ppm (test strip) Water temp: 103 F The J-345 holds 340 gal pH has been rock steady at 7.6 the entire 3 weeks. Should I go back to using dichlor for a week to bring CYA back up? Is it normal for CYA to drift like this?
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