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Found 5 results

  1. The CYA in my pool was at 0 so I talked to a pool service place and was told to put in CYA conditioner in two stages. First on Friday then on Saturday. My filter was running fine at 15 PSI until I brushed the pool twice. I brushed it on Saturday PSI stayed at 15 PSI and then again today. After today's brush the PSI went to 25 and is sitting at 25. I was told not to backwash during this process as the pool will lose CYA that may be in the filter. Is it ok to still run the filter at 25 PSI until I can backwash in about 48 hours or should I backwash now even if I lose some CYA to bring the pressure down? The pool service place I use is closed on Sunday's so I cannot ask him. Thank you for providing this forum.
  2. I'm a fairly new spa owner (approximately two months). The commonly held rule for spas and hot tubs seems to be to change the water every three months (or more often, depending on who you ask). When I asked my dealer the reason for this I was given a nonsensical answer, so I googled it for myself. Multiple sources have indicated that the reason for this is that the TDS level rises over time. Eventually it gets too high and chlorine is no longer effective; thus, the water must be replaced. This answer made sense and I accepted it for the past month, but I was doing some additional reading on the forums and there were multiple comments that TDS seldom, if ever, contributes to problems with water chemistry. The most common reason necessitating changing the water is actually a buildup of CYA (and less commonly, calcium). Thus the dichlor-then-bleach method of sanitation. This also makes sense and several reputable sources seem to concur with the claim, at least when it comes to pools. So now I'm back to wondering, why does spa water need to be changed every three months? Most of the TDS is sodium chloride anyway, which is intentionally added to SWCG pools and spas. If the water is properly maintained, balanced, and sanitized and the CYA levels don't rise above 20-50 ppm, and the TDS level isn't actually an issue (by itself), what is the reason for changing the water?
  3. About 3 months ago I purchased a Jacuzzi J-345. Usage is light but frequent: I soak for 20 min every evening, and my wife joins me about half the time. Based on that and what I've read in this forum, I decided to switch from the Silk Balance system that came with the spa to dichlor-bleach when I changed the water three weeks ago. After the first week CYA was still undetectable (Taylor K-2006) so I continued to use dichlor. Adding a teaspoon after I soaked alone, and 1.5 teaspoons when my wife joined me kept FC at 3-5 ppm and CC near zero. After a second week of dichlor, CYA had increased to around 33 ppm, so I switched to bleach. After a little experimentation I've found that adding 2 oz after I soak alone and 3 oz after we both soak (6% bleach) keeps FC at 3-5 ppm I check FC, CC and pH at least once a day, and do a complete set of tests every Saturday. Today everything looked great except that CYA was back to under 20 ppm. The test sample was only slightly cloudy, and I could still make out the black dot with the cylinder completely full. I repeated the test to make sure, with the same result. Here are complete readings (Taylor K-2006): pH: 7.6 FC: 3.0 CC: none detected TA: 70 CH: 170 CYA: less than 20 ppm Borate: 50 ppm (test strip) Water temp: 103 F The J-345 holds 340 gal pH has been rock steady at 7.6 the entire 3 weeks. Should I go back to using dichlor for a week to bring CYA back up? Is it normal for CYA to drift like this?
  4. When my husband and I started up our inground pool this year, it was green with algae. We were able to clear that up easily, but since then, it has been one water chemistry issue after another. I am hoping that someone can help us because it's getting very frustrating and my husband is ready to drain the pool and shut it down for the year. Our PH and Total Alkalinity were very low. So, I have been adding Baking Soda to bring up the Total Alkalinity, alternating that with Soda Ash to bring up the PH. The PH hasn't budged much, but I think it's because the Soda Ash doesn't seem to be dissolving in the pool. I even tried to mix the Soda Ash with water before pouring it in the pool, but that doesn't seem to be helping. So, tonight I test the pool yet again.... I think the TA is okay now, but the PH is still on the low side... AND now the cyanuric acid is pretty high. I plan to run the pool some more and retest tomorrow, but I'm losing hope... I want to have a pool that my family can safely swim in, but so far this year, we've only been able to look at it. Please help! We have had this pool for several seasons and have never had issues like this! Thanks in advance!
  5. Hi, Been reading the forum a bit more now. The following question rose to my mind. Wouldn't testing these 4 parameters suffice (for my pool). My pool being plastic above ground, outdoors and no splashing, pH elevating fountains or such. CYA: test CYA to reach optimum level. pH: test the pH and correct pH with hydrochloric acid or sodium bicarbonate when necessary. FC: test FC and correct with bleach. TA: test and correct with sodium bicarbonate. The amounts of HCl, NaCO3, trichlor and bleach needed will be calculated with pool calculator. 'Correct' me if i'm wrong, Tim
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