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I tried powering off the spa, but that didn't help. I removed the filters, also no change. Lim OK LED flashes rapidly accompanied by clicking relay, then Control Disconnected LED flashes, then stops. This repeats endlessly. I measured the voltage on the white wire leading from the Relay Board to the Control Board. It has 127 v. I disconnected the ozonator, circulation pump, and both main pumps from the board, but the same behavior (clicking and flashing) occurs. I measured the resistance of the recirculation pump and it was 40.8 ohms. The clicking appears to be coming from one of the relays behind the metal bar, but I am a bit nervous about trying to touch them because they are close to real power. I also checked the recirculation pump fuse and it is good. I could not detect any power going to the recirculation pump. I suspect that the main board is bad. I have attached a picture of the control board below. I don't see any obvious signs of damage. Is there anything else that I could try? Thanks in Advance!

I've lost all the Lighting in my tub. I'm assuming it's the LED controller but I can't find it. When I find it, I'll check to make sure there's voltage getting to it. If there is voltage, I'll likely try to replace the controller. When I find it and remove it, maybe I'll try to get it repaired. So to recap; Where is it? Any tips on troubleshooting it? Jacuzzi J375, 2014

This looks like a lovely forum. Recently found my Hot Springs Jetsetter Spa dead with a burn mark on the back of the IQ2020 heater relay board. After a conversation with Watkins I purchased a Whole new IQ2020 controller, only to find that I would need to replace the upper controller head and do some other things to make it work. Yuck. Bottom line - sending it back (even though it seemed like a bargain @ $350 for the entire controller). Now I’m wondering - is the main controller board really bad? Saw some discoloration on the main board where the hot wire comes in so assumed it was bad. Is there a way to check the main board to check it’s basic functionality, so I don’t fry the future new heater relay board or anything else?

I have a jacuzzi tub that has a bad controller board. This would be an easy repair but I can't find a replacement board. So, I'm looking for some advice on how to move forward with this repair. The board I currently have is a Balboa 25300 Rev 1d. I've searched for rev 1 through rev 4 and can't find anything? Any suggestions on who I might call to acquire this board or maybe it's as easy as buying a new controller to control the tub? Thanks for any assistance

I have an Easy Touch 4 with a Intellipro VS pump, two light circuits, blower, and a Pentair chlorinator. Pentair controls are not real common in this area due to market share more down south but this is what was at the house I bought and always believe if is not broke, don't mess with it. Always worked well for me.Recently an Armadillo chewed through my wires going to my intake actuator causing it not to switch when I turn on the spa. I discovered the shorted wires. I turned off all power in the main panel and repaired the shorted wires. Turned power back on put in SERVICE mode and checked the actuators by hitting the valve button. They worked. Put control back to AUTO and pump would not come on. Removed the high voltage cover and check current coming out of all breakers. They were good. None of the three little circuit breakers at the top right of the control panel were tripped. I checked the pump relay high voltage and had no current coming out of the load connections. Had current on the line connections. Checked the low voltage on the relay and discovered that current was going through the relay but the board was not energizing the relay. I swapped the connector on the back of the board from the blower which is on Aux 3 and energized the blower button and the current flowed. That circuit does not have the capability to schedule on a 4. Got out the manual and found that the Intellipro VS was wired through the relay and not direct current to the pump as manual said. I wired the pump to direct current hit the pump button and the pump works, Spa side control works and so does in inside panel, but neither would turn on pump before I rewired the motor. Checked to make sure pump was addressed as "1". However even though pump works the relay still does not energize for the chlorinator. Second problem was Aux 1 which is the pool light was on. I could cut it manually off but it would come back on when it wanted to. Totally went back through the programming and found no errors.However it appears after sitting a couple of days the light circuit AUX 1 has stayed off, which is no major problem. Could wire it with the spa light on Aux 2. After checking the program and relay still did not energize I tried a new relay for the fun of it. Same thing no work. I hit the reset button on the panel, no change, turned power off to control for a day, still does not work. Called Tech Support and we went back through programs and checked voltages and the Tech Guy, who seemed more knowledgeable than most felt that the motherboard had severe issues but could not tell me why one of the circuit breakers did not trip due to the short. We even erased the EEPROM to see what that did. Okay my question:If I was to set the IntelliPro address to 2 and program pump 2 in the settings menu do you think that the relay would energize by doing that or do you have an better idea. I have been afraid to manually ground the other side of the low voltage relay because I did not want to damage the motherboard. Any help or advice would be deeply appreciated. I

Hey folks. I'm new to the forum, but not new to portable spas. I've got a 2003 Hawkeye spa that just had its first major failure. One of the heater relays failed in dramatic fashion. See attached photo. Anyhow, the board is pretty much toast and 14 years is a good run. It's a Gecko controller (model 0202-205108) and Gecko and many web vendors show 0202-205212 as a drop-in replacement. Not so in my case. I tried one and first of all it is designed to run the ozone any time the pump is on low speed. That's fine for the filter cycle and while heating, but to have the thing pumping out ozone while someone is in the spa running the pump on low seems unhealthy. BTW, there is no circulation pump. I run the filter cycle for 3 hours every 12. My old controller had a relay for the ozone circuit and it would turn the ozone off if the pump or light buttons were pushed. I was willing to live with a little extra ozone exposure, but here's the rub. If you have a 240V set-up and the pump is wired for 240V but the ozone is 120V, the new Gecko 0202-205212 would back-feed power to the ozone through the low-speed pump circuit any time power was on the system. In other words, the ozone generator was on CONTINUOUSLY. Not good. The response from Gecko tech support was "what do you want ozone for anyway?" They basically seem to have designed all the currently available S-class controllers with no regard to the use of ozone. I could have bought a 240V ozone generator, but the 120V UV unit I have now is fairly new and working fine. Does anyone offer a good controller that has a logic control and relay for the ozone generator? Gecko does not seem to. So I guess I'm looking for a controller/topside bundle now. The topside is a Gecko TSC-19. Do any other brands work with that topside control? Thanks for any advise you can offer.

I have a leisure bay hot tub with a balboa S3 controller and was changing the water a week or so ago. I emptied it out and cleaned it and filled it back up. I started it back up once the water got nearly full and it stopped at the PR prompt. The heater works normally as does the low speed filter pump. The jet pump does not work, the jet light on the display lights up, the relay on the board clicks but no pump and no jets. One guy said it needed to be primed, and that air was in the pump. He also said I should refill the water by adding it through the filter hole, not just adding it to the tub. Today, I drained it again, and refilled it like he said but no luck. I have checked all the fuses on the board and none appear to be blown. If I were a gambler, the relay that clicks is the one on the main board, on the top left of the board but that's a guess. It's hard to tell which clicks in such a confined space. Is there a controller reset (CTRL-ALT-DEL of sorts) to reset everything and make it try again? Where does it check for pressure or priming on the main jet pump? I called a very unhelpful person at Balboa who said unless I was an industry professional, he couldn't help me... thanks dude. Mine does not appear to have a blower, and it seems the only electricals behind the controller are the LED lights under the waterfall and on the opposite side. I guess the next step is to get the VOM out and see if there is power at the back of the jet pump, or at least at the jet pump connectors There are two pin sensors in the heater pipe along the bottom of the Balboa box, and (surprise) they squirt water out their holes when you remove them. I assume they are temp sensors feeding the input and output temp to the controller. It does not report a problem any more, but no jet pump. If you touch the jet pump button, it will click the relay, and light the light on the display but not fire up the pump? Has anyone ever seen this? is there a cure? thanks! Stu

I bought the tub used, and has worked just fine for 8 months prior to this. Now there are several lights flashing on the contoller and now all of the buttons do wacky things. Any idea on where to start trying to figure out what the issue could be? Thanks!