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Found 10 results

  1. Is circulating the pool during the hottest part of the day the best way? I was just wondering if circulating pool in heat of day (100 degrees here in Texas) would actually burn off more chlorine? Do you think running it at night and letting pool sit still during heat of day would be better? Just curious of. others opinions. Thanks John
  2. Hi, I have a 2002 Clearwater Spas St Andrew, it has 2x 3HP Waterway pumps (2-speed, 3721221-1D) and a Balboa SUV M7 control board. Pump 1 acts as circulation pump on low speed. Pump 1 recently failed, which also popped one of the two 25A TD Fuses on the board. I replaced Pump 1 and the fuse with new units, but the pump will not come on in low-speed mode, which is what circulates the water through the heater, so the spa is still unusable. You hear the board relay click when the low-speed should come on, but nothing happens. It works fine in high speed mode. If I swap Red and Black, it will run in Low-speed (only). I tried swapping the new pump with pump 2, and the symptoms stay with the pump 1 position, not the physical pump. All other controls and display work correctly. I have verified the wiring from control board to Pump 1 is good. I suspect something on control board, like maybe a faulty relay, but I don't know how to test that so I'm at a bit of a loss at this point. I'm hesitant to drop another $300 on a new board without know for sure that's going to fix the issue, as I assume they are not returnable once installed. One other thing I noticed is my 50A GFCI 'Test' button is not tripping the breaker, but I did validate the input voltage at the control board is correct (Wh<>Bk 119V, Wh<>Rd 119V, Bk<>Rd 238V) Any suggestions appreciated, thanks.
  3. New Artesian Island Elite spa. How to determine the Optimum Circulation Pump Setting For Captiva Elite for 2 ppl?. Default is 12+12 hrs (24hrs 7 days a week) - always on. Seems like for warmer months 8 and 8 with two 4hr breaks (or perhaps even 6 and 6) would extend pump life with nominal effect on heating and filtering. During Winter I would reset to run 12+12 to allow continual low level heating. Looking for optimum power efficiency and pump life. Thoughts?
  4. We recently bought a Masterspa LSX from about 2004. The circulation pump had been completely rusted and seized, so after replacing it and fixing a few leaks, it seems to run good as new. I noticed on the control board dip switches there is a setting for the circ pump to only run when the temperature falls below 3 degrees of the setpoint. The manufactures default setting is to run 24 hours. I changed the switches according to the setting for the 3 hour temp threshold, reset the breaker, and waited, but it still runs constantly despite the temperature. Am I missing a step here? Thank you for your time.
  5. I have a 1999 Caldera Spa's Martinique. Yes, I know it's an old model, but I'm renting a house and it's permanently installed, so it can either be a swamp (as when I moved in) or a functional tub. It seems to work fine, but I have one problem and one question: Problem: the circulation pump kicks in for a minimum of 2 hours twice a day (4 hours total), and when it does, the heater kicks in as well. This is a problem because the minimum temperature on the spa is 80F, so for 4h a day it's running the heater to get from 60F (or whatever ambient is) up to 80F, even though I don't plan on using it for a week or maybe more. Is there any way to disable this? I imagine I'd have to mess with the logic control board... Question: I know that all of the functions work because I can test them (i.e. jets, filter, light, etc.) but the one thing I cannot test is the ozone generator (which I can see is installed). There is no error code being displayed, but that doesn't mean it is working. Does anyone know how I can check this? Thank you!
  6. I've got a Caldera Geneva hot tub that I bought new in the fall of 2012. Aside from replacing the cover this year, I've really not had any major issues with it up until now. Yesterday, I noticed water on the ground around the edge of the spa. I pulled the side panel off to check things out. There was water around the circulation pump. It was leaking out slowly. It appears to be leaking from the large ring that you can tighten with a pair of channel lock pliers. I tightened the ring but it did nothing to stop the leak. My questions are: Is there an O ring that I can change within the large ring in the middle that I tried to tighten? If there is an O ring, where can I buy it? If there is no O ring, do I need to replace the whole pump? If I need to replace the whole pump, where is a good place to buy one? I've attached pictures to show you what I'm dealing with.
  7. Please help. I have a spa crest hot tub. We have recently replaced the circ pump, and entire balboa box with circuit board and heating element etc. Circ pump is 24 hour continuous but kicks off when jets 1 is turned on causing dry and overheat error codes. The circ pump will continue to run simultaneously with jets 2. Im at the end of my troubleshooting skills. Any advice will be much appreciated!
  8. I just restarted my spa after having it off for some time. Did the cleaning and rinsing and then filled it up. When the water level was correct I powered the spa back on, left the mode in standard and set the temp way down to about 81 matching ambient temp as I'm just making sure all is good before heating things up. I tested pumps #1 and #2 and they operate fine on high and low. Also I could see the circulation pump running with the little bubbles trickling from the port. Then it just brought up the FLO warning, the solid FLO now blinking. With the sides off and viewing the flow switch I reset the power to get the system to reset and it is fine, If I run any of the main pumps it shows the switch making contact. Now the interesting part, I reset the system again and this time I move the temp setting up to 84, and the circulation pump runs just fine, I can hear it and also see the bubbles. Then I back the temperature down to 81 which was about the temp and after cooling the heater is stops the circulation pump. This is where I'm not sure about things, since I'm on 24hour mode I would expect the pump to continue even after the heat is gone from the heater. So after maybe 3-10 minutes when I return the FLO warning is back and of course nothing is happening with the spa. So to me it seem like the switch is OK as it does seem to move and work in some modes. The circulation pump will operate its not dead. Would this then point to the pump relay or the master control board??? Any ideas what a DIY guy can do now to trouble shoot? Thanks, Dolfan
  9. Good morning! My Sundance Optima 850 has the FLO error and the circulation pump is not running. If the flow switch is bad, will this keep the circulation pump from running? Or is it for sure the circulation pump? (well...unless it's a control board issue I suppose) The flow switch does have a little debris on it which made me suspect it, but if the $50 part is causing the issue, that's better than the $200 part! haha! Thanks!
  10. I have a used hot tub I'm trying to get working correctly. Is it correct that my Marquis Euphoria, when on circulation/heat cycle, is only moving water through the pipes on one side of my hot tub? Both sides work when I turn on the pumps, and the blowers work. The right pump (160?) is pretty hot but sounds as though it is working. Also, it is my understanding that if the ozonator is working it will "glow". Should the glow be very obvious? I ask because I see no appreciable glow, in daylight at least, when in the ciruclate/heat cycle.
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