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Good day, please, give me an advice.🙏 I have a hot tub Corall, Canadian SPA. The DIPswitch is set, as in the picture in the attachment. Everything works in economy mode((circulation pump/heating). In the standard mode, the heating spiral is switched on, but the circulation pump remains switched off(reports overheating/flow error etc.) Settings: heater 3kW two massage pumps -1 speed circulation pump - 1 speed ozone, light, blower connected to 3 phases Balboa GS523DZ/VL801D How to setup correctly, or what could be broken? Thank you GS523DZ 54763-01_97_D.pdf

Hi, I recently got a used Master Spas, Legend Series. As soon as the hot tub exits priming after turning on it trips the breaker. So I started unplugging stuff. When the circulation pump is unplugged, everything works. All jets work, light, no error codes etc. As soon as I plug the circulation pump into the board it trips. I ran a test by connecting the circulation pump to a gfci outlet and it runs fine. Didnt trip the outlet gfci. Before I go and buy a new circulation pump I'd like to know if it's the root of my problem, or could it potentially be the heater (even though it seems to be fine) or even the circuit board itself.

I got a used hot springs prodigy H from someone. I finished hooking it up yesterday and filled it through the filter housing with a hose. It ran perfectly fine, heated, jets all ran fine. I put system flush in to clean out the jets since it had been sitting. I then drained the water out. When I refilled it, I thought it would be smart to siphon water through a hose from my pool so it would start out clean, I did put it into the filter housing, but slow flow with the siphon. When I powered up the spa again, you could hear the spa start up then it stopped and the control panel red light started flashing and nothing was operative anymore. I turned the power off overnight, took the gray standpipe out, put a hose down in the hole and covered with a rag around the hose, turned the hose on and it forced a big air bubble out the bottom return and I let that water run for about 30 seconds. Put pipe and filter back in and turned on power and it still blinks red, now it doesn't even sound like it tries anything, it will start blinking within 5-10 seconds. I don't think my heater has a reset button, I couldn't find it anyway. Any ideas?

2008 hot springs grandee had the red power light flashing. Took filters out that wasn't it. Replaced circulation pump and that's not it. Same symptoms. Any suggestions?

Hi - Frequent guest, first time asking for help. Thanks in advance and thanks for past help as a "browser"! 2006 Jacuzzi J325 owner here, bought from used spa dealer 3 years ago. Recent issue: working fine ( about 1 month past most recent water change) but came out to find the dreaded Watch Dog dashes error. Shut breaker off: upon power up, observed OH error code very briefly, temp was 102 (verified this, felt correct), red heater light comes on as though it's trying to get up to it's set temp of 104. With panel off, I'm hearing what sounds like the circ pump trying to come on, but it never does. ( This circ pump has been a bit noisy over the past year so I've been suspecting it could fail soon). If I leave it alone for several minutes, the watch dog dashes appear and the tub is locked. Rinse repeat, same events but obviously the temp is starting to drop over the last 2 days of testing. Currently low 90's ( we're in Phx, high ambient temps). So here's a detail: If I reboot as above and attempt to turn on the main pumps ( low and hi) they both work and the tub will operate with main pumps/ jets going for approx 5 min.....then watchdog kicks in and we start over. All the while, that circ pump never seems to come on in any circumstance. Steps: Tested temp sensor ( replaced this 1 year ago) Good . Have a spare. It's good as well. Tested ohm reading based on a guide found here on this site.....both switches seemed correct for the temp at the time. Tested Hi Limit switch ( ohm reading was about right for water temp at the time) Flo Switch "looks" like it's working correctly but can't be certain. Replaced this 1 year ago. Caps on control board "look" ok...not obviously bulging but I'm no expert. Fuse looks ok, but again...no expert here. So I leave it to the pros.....am I suspecting the circ pump without due cause ( just because it's been noisy and seems to be struggling) or am I missing something else? Thanks in advance!

My wife and I owned a D1 Aurora spa for 15 years. Early on, we discovered that she had skin sensititvity issue with most sanitizer systems. I couldn't use the D1 vision (silver ion) system, chlorine, or Bromine without her getting a severe itchy skin rash. I found that I could use Baqua Spa without ussue, and I used it for several years, but it was a pain in the butt, and caused other issues. About 8-9 years ago, I tried Pristine Blue (copper sanitizer system) and it was the answer to all my problems. I could maintain crystal clear water without using any chlorine (I used only the monopersulfate shock ans pristine Blue). The D1 had a 24 hour 10 GPM circulation pump and UV type ozonator that ran 24/7 (it didn't shut off when the tub was in use). About two years ago, I started having water clarity issues and found out the UV bulb in the ozone generator had failed. I replaced the bulb and the water cleared up immediately. Fast forward .. The D1 developed a leak that could not be repaired, so we decided it was time to buy a new spa. There is no D1 dealer near us, so we shopped around and bought a Bullfrog Spa about two months ago. The Bullfrog is eqipped with a programmable 35 GPM circ pump and plasma discharge ozone generator. I have set the circ pump to run 24 hours per day, but it only runs about 18 hours per day (probably due to the fact that it is a 35 GPM pump and overheats the water). My issue is that I can't seem to keep the water clear. It reminds me of the D1 with a bad ozone generator. I have to use large doses of chlorine shock several times a week, and monopersulfate shock every day. My wife can't get in the tub for 24 hours after a dose of chlorine shock, and she now takes a shower after every hot tub use (she still has small outbreaks sometimes, despite the precautions). It still often goes from clear to cloudy overnight, and tends to foam a lot as though there are soaps / detergents in the water. We wash all swim suits in the washing machine without detergent to prevent soap in the spa, so that shouldn't be a problem. We are becoming frustrated and begining to wonder if we made a bad decision. We were happy with the D1, maybe we should have bought another one instead of the Bullfrog. The only difference I can see is the circ pump / ozone system design: The D1 has a system whereby the ozone is mixed with the water in a seperate chamber and fully consumed before the water is re-introdued into the tub so that the ozone can run even when the tub is occupied. The D1 used a UV ozone generator and the Bullfrog uses a plasma discharge generator from Del Ozone The D1 had a 10 GPM pump that never shut off. Has anyone else experienced similar issues? Is the UV generator better? I never smell ozone, even when the generator and pump are running, is it possible that the generator is not working? Any help would be appreciated.

Apologize if this has been covered before. 2010 HS Vanguard. Cold and no panel lights when daughter went to use it. Found Heater/Circuit GFCI tripped. Reset breaker and spa went through power up until the point that the circ pump would normally come on. At that point, the GFCI tripped with no sign of pump activity. Disconnected common to circ pump and system cycles on without tripping but I did not wait to see if the heater tried to come on. I'm assuming it's probably the circ pump but for $180, I'd rather do a bit more troubleshooting to be sure. I could remove jumper the pump but I'd have to connect it to a GFI circuit as it may work with enough leakage to trip a GF. Any good way to conduct a power off check of the heater or is the pump likely to be the culprit?

HI Folks, For some reason on my COAST spa the circulation pump (pump1) seems to now be on a 24 hr cycle. I have no idea why, it was fine but something has changed. I've been keeping an eye on it and it seems to no longer shut down at all !! To try to re-set it I have powered it down and turned it off for 5 mins, Then pwered it back up and watched the numbers cycle thru till Pr ( Prime) shows up. It's a balboa control system with their 500SZ Series type of cpntrol head so I have gone thru and pressed: the Temp UP/DOWN buttons then pressed PUMP 1and set it to display FIL4 and then pressed PUMP 1 again to program the cycle. Right now it's set to 93 deg on "Econ" mode for running ...... What elce can I do to test / fix it? Cheers' Dave

I recently got a "free" hot tub.... man are those some quotation marks!! OK... here's the story. After spending a good deal of time unfreezing my new "free" hot tub and running some expensive electrical wire.... I finally fired it up. Day 1: Temp (57° water) is displayed but "TEMP" logo is blinking. Water does not seem to be moving. I diagnosed as a circ pump issue. Pulled apart circ pump... did not seem to be anything wrong. Put back together... worked shortly and crapped out again. I purchased a new circ pump from the local spa place. Inlet and outlet are only 3/4 not 1"... I just buy some reducers and hook it back up. I can't get the control panel to stay on for more than 5 minutes. I decided that during transport the circuit board got dirty... I give up... drain tub... prepare for 10° temps. Day 2: I take circuit panel out... clean with electrical contact cleaner and tooth brush... Reinstall... Now... Topside control panel: Displays, "TEMP" not blinking and "F"... but not actual temperature reading. I hear some clicks then the topside control panel changes to ---- Then the panel resets.... shows same information.... Then resets again... I get ---- and the circ pump runs (i definitely see water moving)... but ---- continues to show Circuit board in the mean time: LIM OK LED is on HTR ON LED is off Control Unplugged LED is on Clicking... LIM OK flashes on then off LIM OK LED is off HTR ON LED is off Control Unplugged LED is on Clicking... LIM OK flashes on then off LIM OK LED is off HTR ON LED is off Control Unplugged LED is on LED D17 remains red lit I leave tub on .... with space heater in Jet pump compartment, water still moving (hopefully preventing a freeze) Day 3: I check limit sensor for resistance.... when cold: the multimeter jumps from 1 (meaning no connection) to 17 kohm when warm (I put the sensor in my mouth) I get a consistent reading under or around 10kohm I check the pressure switch... seems to have continuity when the circ pump is running I jump the pressure switch... does not change anything I check for continuity through the heater... seems good I pull the topside control panel plug and try to start the tub... same sequence from above... I decide main board is bad Day 4: I install a new main circuit board.... same result.... ERRRGGGHHH PLEASE help.... I am at a loss... I am going to have to call the tech out I think.

Ok so I installed a new/used Watkins 5002 circ pump yesterday in my spa and it works great, but the spa now gets way to hot (around 115F) when I checked it and turned it off when I turn the thermostat knob you can here the relay clicking iv tried to let it sit un-powered for an hour or so and turn it back on the but the pump immediately goes into its second speed as if it need to heat up the pool more but the pool is still really hot. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

I'm looking for help with my 2002 Hot Springs Sovereign. The power light is flashing red. I know this has been discussed a few times here, but I was hoping to get more specifics. My circ pump was replaced by a tech about 1 1/2 years back. So, this is what I've done so far. 1- removed the filters and reset the breaker (a few times). Plus, tapped on the circ pump. 2- removed the circ pump, opened it to look for debris and visible damage. It was fine. 3- put a voltage meter on the circ pump cable, it was fine. When I turn on the power at the breaker, the spa tries to kick on. It makes a hiss and a clicking noise a few times and I can see water trying to flow out(?) of the heater(?), but its kind of just sloshing around. After anywhere from 20 to 60 seconds, it stops trying to come on and the light starts flashing. The temp is at 98. Should I snake out the line from the heater into the tub (something I've read in other posts). Or does any of this indicate that I do (or do not) need to replace the thermistors? Any help is appreciated, thank!