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Hello everyone. This one is weird for me. I've worked on my own tubs for about 6 years now and have mid-level electrician experience (ran 220 lines, can test with various circuit testers, replaced breakers and motors) I found the GFI tripped and it refused to reset. Disconnected the tub, opened the main breaker, and it physically could not be reset. The breaker was about three years old. We have had power issues, brown outs and power loss due to weather. Maybe even a close lightening strike. I assumed the breaker was bad and replaced it. The tub is a 4 year old Jacuzzi J-235 set up in the 50hz mode. No circulator pump so pump 1 runs in low to heat. There isn't any signs of water leakage anywhere around the tub. After replacement, the tub powered up fine and began reheating. I checked back the next day and the new GFI was tripped. I re-set it, everything powered up fine and it began heating again. I checked back a few hours later, tub temp around 90 and still going well. Checked back the next morning and the GFI was tripped again. The short version is that the tub appears to heat up to around 100F and then trips the GFI breaker. I tested the heater and the resistance was in spec. I replaced it anyway with the same rated heater but in titanium. I isolated the flow sensor and temperature sensor that are in line with the heater and the breaker still trips. I disconnected the UV sanitizer, still trips. The temp sensor and over-temp sensor are spliced together at the plug, so if I disconnect them from the board I get the temp sensor failure error and the heater wont' come on. - not sure if there is a way to test them individually without cutting wires. I can run the pumps in all speeds and it runs fine. In the 50hz mode the heater turns off if both pumps are in high at the same time. I checked the connections in the control panel, the main line black wire wasn't in all the way, just up to the lug but not all the way in the cradle. I fixed that, turned he temperature set point down to 98 and turned it on. It ran for two days so I though I had it fixed. Turned the temp up to 100, three hours later the breaker was tripped. The pumps do not run in high speed unless I select it so I'm guessing the low speed pump is tripping the breaker on overload when the water temp gets high enough. Is there a way to test this? Can I wire the high speed up to the low speed supply lug and let it run to see what happens without damaging the circuit board? Any other ideas? Thank you for any help! R0M0

My intellichlor ic40 (I think) is not lit up, has no power. There is NOT a fuse next to the plug at the bottom of the control panel. At the top of the panel, behind the control buttons, is a black 10 amp white breaker button. Need some help. Thanks, Gabe

Sunday 10 Mar 19 Maax Vita, Grand 2015. Has two pumps. Drained and refilled and got an air bubble. We did not fill it properly. Should have been thru the filter port, but instead a hose was simply put into the tub and it created the air bubble. Shame on us. O.K., that said, when attempting to start it up, A Purge Air message was displayed. I tried to burp it by turning the pumps on and off and going from low to hi speed with each pump. Then I tried a plunger to try to purge air by plunging at the filter opening. I turned the heat down as low as possible so the heater would not turn on. No luck with the air purge. The spa ran for about 10-15 minutes and then my main breaker (not the 50 amp GFCI breaker in the spa sub panel) tripped in my main house breaker panel. These are two 60 amp breakers together. They supply the Spa Sub Panel only. I removed the side panels and loosened the connection at the heater, no air escaped. Next were the two connections at pump #1 as well as the small air bleed plugs. Air did hiss out followed by a steady stream of water. Then on to pump #2 and again loosened both connectors at the pump as well as the air bleed plugs. Same result. I reset the twin 60 amp main breakers and started the spa up again. Again, I got the purge air message. Eventually we got the system clear of air, and reset the main breaker again, I got it to run with pump #1 on low speed and the heater heating up the spa. It ran for hours. Water got to about 100 degrees and my wife decided to use the spa. I thought that the situation was cured. She increased the pump speed and turned on pump #2 and after about 10 minutes of running like it should, the main breaker again tripped. Not the GFCI, just the main breaker. I have checked the heater element for a short with my continuity meter and there is none. I looked into the control panel for anything burned or broken and it looks like the day it was delivered. No odors of burning or any visible damage. The heater has two sensors on it. One at each end. The sensors are actually is screwed into the heater tube. (On my old "Master Spa" the sensor simply laid on top of the heater tube under a clip) The wires for each sensor are securely plugged into the control board. So with the air purged and the spa running for hours and only tripping the main breaker when the pumps run on hi and the heater is working, I'm stumped. The spa is still under warranty and if it is a covered thing, no problem. If it's not a covered item, then I'm looking at $$$ for a service call and possible fix. Nothing has changed in any part of the electrical supply. So it's worked well since it was installed in May of 2016. Any ideas what could be causing these issues? Thanks, Keats Phoenix. Update: 3/10/19. P.M. We just ran. a series of tests on the spa. Running the pump(s) at various speeds and combinations. Pump #1 Low speed ran as it should have. 15 minutes and then it shut off as designed. Breaker did not trip. Pump #1 High speed, same thing.Breaker did not trip. Pump#1 Low and Pump #2 Low, ran fine and shut off as designed. Breaker did not trip. Pump #1 Low and Pump #2 High, Ran as it should and shut off as designed after 15 minutes. Breaker did not trip. Pump #1 High and Pump #2 High, ran only 13 minutes and then tripped the main breaker. So running both of these pumps on HIGH caused the breaker to trip, shutting down the entire spa and making it necessary to reset the main breaker at the main breaker box.

Last year my hot tub froze when I was gone down South driving my parents. I did not doing anything for it was a solid block of ice. This Spring/Summer I monitored for leaks. It all seemed good, the ater level never changed. Of course procrastinating a little bit, I got it cleaned out and replaced with fresh water. I turned the breaker on and it tripped after some time (not instantaneously). I checked continuity across the element and it was present. I removed the two wires from the control panel to the heater and turned the breaker on. The pumps turned on and the breaker never popped again. I purchased a new element online. I thought about but did not order new washers. I replaced the heater but could not get the housing to stop dripping. I eventually cracked the plastic PVC shutoff valve. I ordered new parts to include washers this time. I got it all back together last night and filled. When I woke up this morning, the breaker was tripped again. This has been quite the event...... Please help, what am I missing? lost in Michigan

Late last year we took delivery of an Artesian Kona Elite spa (2 5HP main pumps). The spa was wired to a 50A GFI breaker disconnect in accordance with the dealers' instructions. The disconnect was tied to a 60A breaker in the main panel. We immediately ran into problems with the spa sporadically tripping the breaker, Sometimes it was in the first 15 minute cycle, other times it would wait until the third 15 minute cycle. Ordinarily we would bathe for about 30 minutes and wouldn't have any trouble. On average it would trip every 3-4 weeks one way or the other. The technicians were out numerous times. Both main pumps were replaced. The heater was replaced. The circulation pump was replaced. The pack was programmed to not run the heater when Pump #2 was energized. None of these resolved the problem. Ultimately we replaced the 50A GFI with a 60A GFI breaker (tied to a 70A breaker in the main panel) a little over a month ago The higher amperage breaker was certainly helpful - and in hindsight probably should have been the FIRST corrective measure - but even with that change a few days ago the breaker tripped. That said, at the point when it tripped the spa had been running continuously for about an hour. The spa was unoccupied for the first 15 minute cycle, which we initiated with the cover open because the water was too hot (a filtration cycle issue, discussed separately). We were in the spa for most of 3 cycles, and the spa tripped as the pumps were being turned off before we exited. Given that information, I have a question about expectations. The engineer in me wants to think that the design of the system should allow the spa to operate continuously, as it might be were it in a commercial setting (e.g., hotel setting with frequent bathers). (1) Does anyone have any insight into what is reasonable to expect in terms of continuous operation with both pumps and the heater operating? (2) The same question, if the heater wasn't energized while the pumps were running? (3) Is a spa designed to only operate continuously for a certain period of time? Thank you!

Recently acquired my parents Hotspring Sovereign 2003 model. Had to replace heater relay board and small circulation pump. Panel lights operating as they shoukd now, spa is properly primed from what I can tell, ozone with bubbles working as they should. Now when I turned on heater breaker, set temp to 102, after about 5 minutes the breaker trips. I feel the water warm where the bubbles rise so it seems to be heating. Heater is Watkins no fault 6000. Any suggestions or advice would be helpful.

I have a Legacy Whirlpool Enterprise VS that I purchased in 2011. The tub is hooked up directly to a dedicated 50A GFCI breaker. About 5 seconds after power is supplied, the breaker trips. I have tried troubleshooting the source of the issue by isolating each component one at a time and powering up the tub in between each disconnect. No matter which component is connected, the breaker trips. Even when all of the components (including the heater) are disconnected from the circuit board, the breaker will trip. Each time power is supplied, a few seconds pass, and I can hear something click in the control board. Immediately following the click, the breaker on the house trips. I have tried replacing the breaker, and the same problem exists. When power is disconnected from the control board the breaker does NOT trip, which leads me to believe the problem is indeed within the hot tub itself. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!!!

Hello folks, hoping to get some help. Running a spa pack with air switches, 2 speed pump, the slower speed runs while the tub is heating up, then kicks off when it hits the desired temp (at full setting on the spa pack usually between 102 and 105 degrees f.), then kicking back on and off as the thermostat dictates. The Problem: The spa keeps tripping the GFI. As far as I can tell from monitoring the situation, it's happening right when the water hits the desired temp and the pump shuts back off from the low speed. I had an electrician friend test the GFI and he says it's fine at this point. happy to answer any specifics. much thanks in advance. Ajax.

Hi! Thank you for any advice you can offer. The circuit breaker for my hot tub won't stay on. I try to flip it on and it just flips back to the off position. It's a Marquis Everyday 418, made in 2006. The weather is at freezing or near freezing, and it will be freezing for many days on end starting the day after tomorrow, so it appears time is of the essence. The LED panel reads the following codes: IC and Sn. I know IC means there are icy conditions and Sn means there's a sensor problem. The water temperature was 44 to start with last night and then it got all the way up to 50 and perhaps a bit higher before flipping off about seven hours later. This is why I dont believe the problem is the heating element, but Im not totally sure. Today I fixed a leak in the hot tub, apparently, which was just a loose screw in the component panel of the hot tub. The screw connects a tube to the element at the bottom of the box that contains electronic circuitry. The leak is apparently fixed because it has been eight hours since I tightened the above mentioned screw and the water level has not gone down an iota. I have checked all the fuses, for what thats worth, and they all show continuity. One more thing: I live in a small town in southeastern Ohio, Athens, and apparently the only two contacts I have for hot tub repair experts are on vacation. I know I'm starting this just before a weekend, but I just closed on the house the hot tub is located at, and the problem has just come up. If anyone has any suggestions for an expert who can help me directly on site in Athens, Ohio this weekend or Monday, please please let me know. Thanks again.

We purchased a C45 caldera spa which is used. My husband ran all the electrical. We have the breaker box which is new. The gfci is popping on this box. The breaker in the house is fine. Not popping. We thought it was a bad breaker so we went back to Home Depot and got another breaker. He put the new breaker in and it is doing the same thing. We are having the electrician come out and check the spa later today. I hear that each motor should be checked separately, as well as the heater and other parts to try to figure out what may be wrong. The spa runs for a few minutes then the breaker pops. We had just a few jets on at first and it popped then we tried again with all the jets on and still the same problem. When we first went to look at the spa the seller turned on just a few jets. My husband said that the seller didn't have a gfci hooked into the spa and just ran it to his home breaker box. Any ideas??

Hot Springs Sovereign; I think we got it around 2000. S/N is IQ2A2015; it has the IQ2000 controls, and is wired for 220. Two GFCI breakers- a 20A that runs the controls and circulation pump, and a 50A for the heaters and main pump. After a brief power outage two days ago, every time I reset the smaller, 20A breaker, it instantly trips. I replaced the breaker but problem continues. After the power outage, water backed up into the Ozone unit. I've disconnected the Ozone electrically but no change in behavior. I removed the metal bracket that obstructs the main board, didn't see any obvious burn spots or other indications. While the bracket was off, I tried applying power and got a steady red light. I powered off to avoid the shocking hazard while replacing the bracket, and now it instantly trips the breaker again. I've also tried powering up without the thermistors attached, but no change. They measure 11.61 and 12.64; water may still be slightly warm. Any clues? At first it was just the red blinking light syndrome; now it won't come on at all, and instantly trips the 20A breaker (the control panel light flashes briefly until the breaker trips.) Thanks- Paul

Hello and thanks for looking. We have a coleman hottub we just were given. Seems to have a few issues, one being it seems to be taking forever to heat up and a code comes up saying cool.It's been on for two days and it's at 77 degrees. Another issue is about every other day the thing seems to trip the breaker. Would appreciate any help

I recently did a water change on the spa. The spa had been turned off at the main panel. Once restoring power the 20amp breaker in the subpanel will trip within 5 secs. It doesn't trip at the main panel. I mad a video of the IQ2020 board lights but not sure how to post it to the forum. The heater 30amp breaker doesn't seem to have a problem. I think this is a 2004 or 2005 model. Here is what happens on the logic board: 1. The breaker is turned on 2a. LIM OK lights turns GREEN D13 2b. Control Unplugged turns RED D12 2c. Appliance controls D17 turns RED 3. Then a clicking noise and the D13 and D12 lights go off but the D13 LIM OK light stays GREEN. The Heater 30AMP breaker is off. Any ideas of the problem? suggestions? The unit has been running with no problems since it was purchased around 2004.