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Before emptying the hot tub and refilling for the winter months everything was operating fine on the hot tub. After refilling when powering the tub back up, the red power light / LED started flashing after coming on solid for roughly 5-8 seconds before flashing. Below are various observations and items tried to diagnose why the IQ 2020 control box is going into a mode of flashing the red power light. * Hot tub was purchased three years ago not being operational and needed a replacement heater power relay board to get running then. * Filter removed from circulation pump inlet to rule out a clogged filter * Water released from drain valve to expel some air present as an air lock was initial suspected issue * Upon turning on power, red light turns on solid for roughly 5-8 seconds before going to flashing. * Circulation pump does not turn on until the red light starts flashing (no flow during initial 5-8 seconds) * Water flowing up from water feature when turned on and flow seen from heater return (flow of heater return not yet checked) * 220V GFCI breakers to the spa reset multiple times (off for over 30 seconds each time) before turning back on. * Power cycled with turning on only the control breaker and NOT the heater breaker shows the same flashing red light after 5-8 seconds * Rear auxiliary panel and LED modules both disconnected with flashing red light still being present upon power up * Ran circulation pump for 8-10 minutes with heater breaker off, then checked thermistor values. hi-limit was 16.33 kOhms, Control was 16.93 kOhms. I have read that these two values should not differ by > 0.2 kOhms and they did differ by 0.6 kOhms. * Current heater is not a Watkins heater, but is a ThermProducts 26-C3160-1S heater (with limit switch wire) that must have been installed by previous owner. * Circulation pump appears to be original. * Next step today is to remove the drain cover to place in plumbing to allow for measuring flow rate to confirm being greater than 3 gallons/minute In doing extensive internet searches, I cannot find any information as to what the power up sequence is for the IQ2020 controller to identify what should be coming on in what order and what items would trigger the flashing red power light. I suspect that my issue is between the circulation pump, the heater and the thermistors on the heater, but would like to absolutely confirm which needs replacement instead of all of them. I would appreciate any feedback on what to do next for further diagnostics to determine the failed part to replace it with it now getting just below freezing overnight. Thanks for any help you may be able to provide. redzr1

I Have a vita L700C whenever I try to use the topside panel it always blinks no matter what setting I am in and it wont heat up. The clock will blink, when I change the setting to see the water temperature it continues to blink, when I change it to the set temp of 102 degrees it continues to blink. I have replaced the recirculator pump and the heater element. I am going to put in a new topside panel due to it being hard to read due to the condensation that has built up over the years. All 3 pumps work as they should. I tested the new heater element and the Ohms were within spec. When i turn the breaker on and test the heater for voltage it only reads at 0.023V. The heater element is a 4kW @ 240v system. Any ideas or help to guide me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.

I have Tiger River hot tub- I am guessing it is an 02 or 03 model. The tub powers up then after a couple of hours the red Power light starts blinking and it stops heating. I reset the breakers and it works for a while and then the same thing happens. The more often that I do this the shorter the duration between the resetting of the breakers and the “Blinking of the Power light”. Maybe because the water is getting warmer in the tub? The tub never gets to the set temperature (maybe 10 degrees shy of it). I tested the thermistors- they were still good I have replaced both thermistors – same results I force purged the tub with a garden hose through the gray standpipe- same results I replaced the circ pump (The new one is considerably stronger) – same results I double checked that I didn’t have an air leek or air bubbles in the circ pump. The tub has a stereo- I have removed it and the its ac/dc convertor. I have removed the filters and tested it – same results If anyone has any advice on the next steps to diagnose this problem it would be greatly appreciated.

Hi folks Apologies for the *long* post - but could use some help. I have been troubleshooting a blinking red-light problem with my Hotspring Landmark (2000 year model). I have always had a problem after refilling this spa (everytime after a refill if I flipped both breakers on - the blinking red light would turn-on) - the way I would resolve this is by turning the 20A breaker on, then running jets for at least 30 mins to an hour and then turning the 30A breaker on. Sometimes it would take 2 - 3 times of doing this - but it usually worked. Then I refilled last month and noticed one of my jet-pumps leaking - I had a local service person come take it out - had to drain the freshly filled water and replace the wet seal and impeller on it. When he came back to re-install it, he accidentally broke the little black nozzle off the right-angle elbow attached to the circulation pump (that connects to the bleeder hose) - so he replaced the elbow and put a brass barbed fitting in it to connect to the hose. After this I refilled the tub and had my blinking light problem again - and noticed that I wasn't seeing too many bubbles through the bottom drain (they have been low in general) - so did the following troubleshooting: 1) removed the filter and tried - didn't work 2) removed the venturi injector tubing from ozonator check valve -- water comes out of this unless I started Jet-pump-1 at which point the water gets sucked back into the injector.. 3) removed the intake hose from the circulation pump and connected it back in to remove any airlock -- started the jets and 10 minutes later started the 30A breaker - did not trip this time.. However few hours later the red-light was flashing again.. 4) This time I took out the circulation pump (thinking it might have scale deposits inside or something broken) - plugged the hoses with caps so I didn't have to drain and dismantled the pump wet-end (its a silentflo 5000) - pump looked great - no scale / no deposits / no broken parts.. I took it to my local store and the tech there did a dry test and said the circ-pump looked ok to him. 5) Since I had the circ. pump removed - I decided to check the watakins no-fault heater for clogs too, so I removed it; opened the end caps and it's clean as well; resistance was ~9 ohms. 6) So put everything back together - turned on the the 20A breaker and got a good-stream of bubbles initially but they trickled back to a low stream very quickly after that. This time around after disconnecting the injector tubing at the ozone check valve, water still leaked out even after turning on the jet pump - so something was different than before. 7) Turned on the 30A breaker - didn't get the blinking light - left it running -- of course few hours later the blinking red light was back!! So I am still thinking it's my circ. pump - just ordered a new Laing E5 repalcement - but in the meantime - I am wondering if something else is going on.. Any suggestions from anyone? Thanks mrcotton73..

Hot Springs Sovereign; I think we got it around 2000. S/N is IQ2A2015; it has the IQ2000 controls, and is wired for 220. Two GFCI breakers- a 20A that runs the controls and circulation pump, and a 50A for the heaters and main pump. After a brief power outage two days ago, every time I reset the smaller, 20A breaker, it instantly trips. I replaced the breaker but problem continues. After the power outage, water backed up into the Ozone unit. I've disconnected the Ozone electrically but no change in behavior. I removed the metal bracket that obstructs the main board, didn't see any obvious burn spots or other indications. While the bracket was off, I tried applying power and got a steady red light. I powered off to avoid the shocking hazard while replacing the bracket, and now it instantly trips the breaker again. I've also tried powering up without the thermistors attached, but no change. They measure 11.61 and 12.64; water may still be slightly warm. Any clues? At first it was just the red blinking light syndrome; now it won't come on at all, and instantly trips the 20A breaker (the control panel light flashes briefly until the breaker trips.) Thanks- Paul