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Showing results for tags 'bleach'.
Found 9 results
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Hi, I have recently successfully switched to the dichlor-then-bleach approach thanks to the awesome help and information on this forum. Everything is going great, the only thing is I have a spa with ozonator (can't control it) and the FC is used up pretty rapidly. So I need to check my FC everyday and add bleach to increase it to for example 6ppm. So, this got me thinking.. Why isn't there an easier way (except for saltwater chlorine generators or expensive tools) to dose liquid chlorine into the pool automated? I mean, this could be a really simple device. Something like a water proof floater on batteries which automatically injects for example 0.5oz of contents (in my case 12,5% bleach) into the tub every X hours. That way I could maintain a proper FC level for way longer times without active maintenance. Just curious if someone knows if there is already a simple device that does this. PS. I cannot use a chlorine feeder which I manually have to put somewhere in my filtration system because I have a Jacuzzi and I cannot access those parts. So a simple device like a floater would be ideal. I am not sure if many spa owners are looking for something like this, but I think it might be a great little gadget for every spa/hottub/Jacuzzi owner.
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Hi All, I have a question on using MPS with the bleach/dichlor method. I'd like to use some to assist the dichlor/bleach with oxidization. It sounds like a good idea to keep my chlorine demand low and there doesn't appear to be any significant downsides. My TA is low at 50ppm. My pH is good at 7.6 but I have seen it drift up at times with use so using MPS should also help me keep pH on the lower side if I understand correctly. I've also read that MPS can result in a false high combined chlorine reading. With my K-2006 test kit, I'd need to use the K-2041 to remove this interference. It's $30 for 3/4 of an oz.. How much of this deox reagent in K-2041 do I need to add during a CC test? How long would this K-2041 kit last with daily tests. I'm hoping to hear from people who use (or have decided not to use) MPS with bleach/dichlor and whether using it is worth the cost of dealing with the K-2041. Or if straight bleach is just as effective and easier overall, even if you need to use more. Thanks, Rob
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We have had a small (~800L) spa for around a month. Ive begun using the dichlor-then-bleach method today after half-draining the spa to reduce the CYA to close to recommended levels. Questions: 1) How often? The providers said drain every 3 months, but apparently that's too long for a small spa. The Taylor site recommends the formula: Size in Litres / (10 x # of bathers daily) which comes to just 40 days for us. I think we should be able to go longer than that, because we wash with soap first and we are pretty small people. What guidelines do other follow? I'm thinking 2 months. Is there a more scientific way to say when to drain (provided of course the water looks fine and sanitised correctly each day)? Perhaps a total dissolved solids measurement? 2) Draining onto garden? Im using the recommended 50 ppm borates, and I understand that a little is good for plants, but that is going to be a lot of borates over time in the soil. What do others do with the drained water?
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When using sodium dichlor in hot tub, is it okay to use sanitizing wipes with bleach to wipe down the edges of the spa above water?
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Hello All, Just a quick question regarding bleach. Clorox says their bleach has at least 6% sodium hypochlorite with a little sodium hydroxide and sodium carbonate to help buffer the solution and help maintain the product performance for up to a year. (Read more at https://www.clorox.com/dr-laundry/bleach-101/#E5B4B0RpecGtxkbt.99) My wife bought some dollar store bleach, and it does not have the sodium hypochlorite %. I assume its weaker as it does not seem to be keeping my FC after I add the amount for 6% bleach in PoolMath. With my taylor k-2006 kit, can I determine the sodium hypochlorite %, or would that be a waste of chemicals to try? The simple answer is just buy the Clorox I know, but I am curious... Thanks, Byl -
Does anyone know how bleach will affect silicone? There are conflicting chemical resistance charts online - what would be a suitable substitute for flexible tubing (to run through a peristaltic pump) - if silicone is severely affected by bleach?
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I have a 2010 Hot Springs Vanguard tub that this forum helped me set up. Thank you. I love my hot tub. I/ we (the wife and I) use it 4-5 days a week. Mostly just me. It will be two months tomorrow. I am using the Bromine System. It has been very easy. I knew nothing coming in. I am using the Taylor K-2106 to monitor my waters health. I have clear water, no smell and no foaming problems. I have not had any skin problems that I've suffered with public pools. I have added only an ounce or two of bleach over a month ago. Very minor adjustments only a couple of times with baking soda and/or muriatic acid. This particular model has five filters in the filter well. One primary and the others appear to be just soldiers. Today I went to clean the filters and found them very clean. All had some very minor particulates and the primary had some discolor at the bottom. I gave them all a hot water rinse. they all look very clean (white) including the primary which I rotated out to a secondary position. I chose not to use the filter cleaner I had. I was afraid it might introduce a foaming problem. Would you insist I use the filter cleaner? Should I use some bleach just because?
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About 3 months ago I purchased a Jacuzzi J-345. Usage is light but frequent: I soak for 20 min every evening, and my wife joins me about half the time. Based on that and what I've read in this forum, I decided to switch from the Silk Balance system that came with the spa to dichlor-bleach when I changed the water three weeks ago. After the first week CYA was still undetectable (Taylor K-2006) so I continued to use dichlor. Adding a teaspoon after I soaked alone, and 1.5 teaspoons when my wife joined me kept FC at 3-5 ppm and CC near zero. After a second week of dichlor, CYA had increased to around 33 ppm, so I switched to bleach. After a little experimentation I've found that adding 2 oz after I soak alone and 3 oz after we both soak (6% bleach) keeps FC at 3-5 ppm I check FC, CC and pH at least once a day, and do a complete set of tests every Saturday. Today everything looked great except that CYA was back to under 20 ppm. The test sample was only slightly cloudy, and I could still make out the black dot with the cylinder completely full. I repeated the test to make sure, with the same result. Here are complete readings (Taylor K-2006): pH: 7.6 FC: 3.0 CC: none detected TA: 70 CH: 170 CYA: less than 20 ppm Borate: 50 ppm (test strip) Water temp: 103 F The J-345 holds 340 gal pH has been rock steady at 7.6 the entire 3 weeks. Should I go back to using dichlor for a week to bring CYA back up? Is it normal for CYA to drift like this?
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Hi, Been reading the forum a bit more now. The following question rose to my mind. Wouldn't testing these 4 parameters suffice (for my pool). My pool being plastic above ground, outdoors and no splashing, pH elevating fountains or such. CYA: test CYA to reach optimum level. pH: test the pH and correct pH with hydrochloric acid or sodium bicarbonate when necessary. FC: test FC and correct with bleach. TA: test and correct with sodium bicarbonate. The amounts of HCl, NaCO3, trichlor and bleach needed will be calculated with pool calculator. 'Correct' me if i'm wrong, Tim
