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Hi, I have a 2002 Clearwater Spas St Andrew, it has 2x 3HP Waterway pumps (2-speed, 3721221-1D) and a Balboa SUV M7 control board. Pump 1 acts as circulation pump on low speed. Pump 1 recently failed, which also popped one of the two 25A TD Fuses on the board. I replaced Pump 1 and the fuse with new units, but the pump will not come on in low-speed mode, which is what circulates the water through the heater, so the spa is still unusable. You hear the board relay click when the low-speed should come on, but nothing happens. It works fine in high speed mode. If I swap Red and Black, it will run in Low-speed (only). I tried swapping the new pump with pump 2, and the symptoms stay with the pump 1 position, not the physical pump. All other controls and display work correctly. I have verified the wiring from control board to Pump 1 is good. I suspect something on control board, like maybe a faulty relay, but I don't know how to test that so I'm at a bit of a loss at this point. I'm hesitant to drop another $300 on a new board without know for sure that's going to fix the issue, as I assume they are not returnable once installed. One other thing I noticed is my 50A GFCI 'Test' button is not tripping the breaker, but I did validate the input voltage at the control board is correct (Wh<>Bk 119V, Wh<>Rd 119V, Bk<>Rd 238V) Any suggestions appreciated, thanks.

I have a Balboa EL2001 Mach 2 circuit board and ML700 topside panel with aux top panel. I am trying to pinpoint if I have an issue with the topside panel or the circuit board. The board was replaces under 2 years ago. The top panel acts like everything works, icons change like it is working, but nothing actually turns on. None of the 3 motors and not even the spa water light. All the fuses are good and I don't see any visible damage on the board. I would love to be able to unplug both top panels and test if I can get the circuit board to turn anything on. Is that possible?

So last night I cleaned up my hot tub to be filled and started back up for the winter. I willed it back up with fresh water, turned the breaker on and noticed there was an ozone circuit board smell coming from the main pack. I didn't get any error messages on the Balboa ML700 control display. It went to "pr" for priming and then after 10 minutes it turned the pumps on and started to circulate the water. I set the clock, and the timers on when I wanted to the cleaning cycles to start (1 is 2:30 am to 3 am - 2 is 3:30 am to 4 am) I set the temp to 85 degrees, noticed that the thermometer icon was present and the swirling fan was on (indicating that the heater was on and pump 1 was circulating the water) OK so everything spears to be working just fine right? well I this morning it was still running, it got to temp and didn't turn off. I then tried to put the unit into "sleep" mode to get it to turn off. After 10 minutes it was still running and will not go to sleep. This is my concern, is the board bad? What happened? How can I test this? Standard mode works, Econ mode works, Blower comes on, both pumps run in low and high speeds, lights work. Where can I start testing? I'd rather not have to buy a new spa pack right before the holidays :( Thanks in advance !

Background: I have a freeflow tlx with Balboa 54115 Board set to run on 110v. I got it used and not working. I think the guy i got it from got it broken from someone else and couldn't fix it. This is my first experience with a spa. After consulting the wiring diagram, correcting some reversed wires and calibrating the pressure switch, all seems normal. The real problem was poor job of replacing the onboard fuse leading to intermittent board function which i repaired. Question: In a state were its below temperature set point: when I switch the pump to high speed, it stops calling for heat. Returning to low speed, it calls for heats again. Is this normal? Theories: 1. The higher flow rate may be faulting the pressure sensor. 2. Something else is wired wrong. (I found several incorrectly wired connectons to the control board. Its almost like this guy was just trying everything or someone sabatoged it.) 3. Some circuit is fried on the boad because of the situation noted in number 2. 4. Its normal operation for this contoller to cut the heat in high jet mode. Thanks in advance for any advice. -Jim

Question: I installed the Balboa VS500Z pack from Spaguts.com in August 2017. This weekend the control panel started registering code HL (Difference between temperature sensors and a possible flow problem) and eventually LF (persistent Low flow problems) The heater shuts off and the temperature drops significantly. None of the issues Balboa suggest seem to be present. Water level is normal, pump seems primed, changed filter. I can keep resetting the pump and it will eventually heat back up, but I have to be in the tub hitting the pump button every 5 minutes or so to make that happen. Any other options, recommendations to get this cleared? Spaguts.com customer service sent Thank you for your inquiry. If your heating pump is Pump1 and you used the provided pump cord, then there should be four wires connected to the motor. When the spa needs to heat the water, it will activate the low speed circuit and supply 240V between the white and black wires. If the voltage is present and the motor is not running, then there is an issue with the motor. (not too clear on what they are suggesing I do here)

DUMB QUESTION: I REPLACED MY HEATER ELEMENT ON MY 110V PLUG AND PLAY SPA; DOES IT MATTER WHICH SENSOR (A OR GOES WHERE ON THE TUBE? WHICH SENSOR IS CLOSEST TO THE HEATER COIL POSTS/COPPER CONTACTS (ELECTRICAL) AND WHICH IS THE FURTHEST? DOES IT MAKE A DIFFERENCE? THX

I recently bought a home which had a hot tub included with the sale. We finally got it up and running and have noticed it loses heat more than we expected it to. We are in eastern Canada and have had some nights down to -4C already. For example a night not long ago it was -3C and we had 4 bathers in the tub for approx 1 - 1.5 hours and the tub was down to 100 (from 104 set) when we got out. I left the cover off for another half hour after we got out to add chemical and the tub was then down to 98. One set of jets was running most of the time, 1 bather had the air turned on for most of the time. The tub model is Legend by Platinum Hot Tubs. The spa pack is a Balboa HS200VS with a 4.0kW heater. I've noticed in researching tubs this is on the low end of heater ratings, with 5.5kW being more common. So I have a few questions... 1. Is this amount of heat loss normal? I hope not because its only going to get colder here, often down to -15C or -20C. 2. Is a heater upgrade possible on this pack? I've seen some recommendations elsewhere saying its never a good idea to upgrade a heater but what makes me think its possible is that the circuit board (P/N 55098) used in this spa pack is the same as a VS510SZ by Balboa which has a 5.5kW heater. And would it make a difference as far as heat loss is concerned? My spa is wired up to a 60A breaker. I've also noticed Balboa sells secondary auxillary heaters in various kW ratings, obviously one of these would require additional wiring but is it possible to retrofit these or are they only installed by spa manufacturers? Any help would be great, thanks.

I purchased a used 1993 Coleman Hot Tub. I have been using it the past few years. I was getting a "FLO" error message from time to time, but it didn't seem to affect the performance. I was also getting an "ILOC" error once a week or so. It would just be shut down, but as soon as I hit a button or two it would fire back up. I replaced the temp sensor as well as the pressure sensor as I noticed that the wire had broke and had a poor repair job. I just filled it up for the winter and turned it on. It warms up to mid-90s and then an ILOC shows up. I wait several minutes, hit a button on the topside it fires up only to do the same thing... one time it blew the breaker too. I have never had a "SN1" or "SN3" error code, but in the past had seen "OH" a time or two. I haven't touched the heating element, but am wandering if it is damaged. Any help would be appreciated

Old Morgan Spa I replaced the 50745 board with a new M3 retro fit 52518 board along with a new topside controller-51058. I have 2 motors- 2 speed motors 1- blower No ozonator 1. On the new board I pulled the J10 jumper 2. J7 is on "A" side 3. J25 is on 60Hz There is a flashing FLO code along with COOL. I have tested the continuity of the pressure switch while the pumps are on and it is closed and open when the pumps are off. Pump 1 is running on low speed and high speed when press pump 1. When pressed third time the 2nd pump does not turn on. The 2nd pump does not come on at all now. The old board does not have a relay on pump 2 if this matters. When press clock(time)- blower comes on???? Press blower button-(bottom right) something clicks on board but blower does not turn on. I feel I am missing something. Any suggestions?

Ok, So my wife decided we needed to get this used hot tub from her friend, long story short, I poured a slab and moved this thing to my backyard. Wired, and found/fixed leaks. Replaced 1 bad pump. (waterway executive 56 5hp Both are 2 speed.) Ok, so no Idea of the manufacturer, Cover around the filters says "Phoenix Spas" Control says Balboa The Spa Pack is a VS501z by Balboa. The heater is an M7 style SO... hopefully these are most of the details needed. I'm a plumber so I understand pumps and what not. Issue #1 The pump connected to the heater, is that supposed to be the Circ or the Pump 1? I would think it should be the Circ to move the water around thru the heater, but I'm not an expert. The new pump I installed was originally plugged in the Circ port on the board. However this pump wont run of the control panel. I know the spa heater works, tested and had the spa up to temp at 1 point of time. Now its acting goofy. I have no history on this tub, but know I can fix about anything with a little direction. Any suggestions or ideas? Jeff

Ok to begin this post I need to apologize for the sad story and the length of my post….I honestly don’t want yall to think I am shoveling a sob story…Now that’s out of the way let me tell you what is going on. I am a mother of four kids. I have a son who has neurofibromatosis type 1 and Noonan’s syndrome and is disabled. He is a thriving college student that works around all of his challenges including tumors on his arm, brain and spine. He has pain every day. They thought he had cerebral palsy when he was a baby and after many years of physical therapy he was a cross country runner in high school. I have fibromyalgia, rheumatoid arthritis and a brain tumor along with several other rare diseases that left me disabled at 28. I am 38 now and I suffer daily with pain. I have also been on oral steroids twice a day for 10 years. It sucks. I am fat and miserable. I spent many years on narcotic medications…enough to kill a horse and his wife. I am off all my medication and I am looking for alternatives. The steroids, Blood clots in my lungs and a year of being bed bound from an injury to my leg…..I am over 300 pounds and exercise kills me. I need a pool….Sorry. Went off into a day dream… Where was I? Oh yeah… Hot tubs are a therapy tool for us and also brings much needed relief. A Morgan spa was given to us. It is a large one with 98 jets. It needed two new motors witch I replaced. The spa pack melted after several months of use. I got another one. A balboa vs501sz. I am the one who connected everything. I am savvy around the house…the only income we have is my disability so learning how to do everything has been a way of life. So this is what happens…. Morgan spa Balboa vs501sz AquaFlo xpe2 and xp2 You turn on the power. The spa pack clicks and enters priming mode. Nothing will come on. If I unplug the pump 1 from the board I am able to run the blower and pump 2 but pump 2 is not pumping at speed. Like half capacity. Also when I turn on the blower the pump slows more and you can tell there is a strain on the power source. Also… not all the jets have water running thru them when the blower is on. It does not matter where I move the pump one plug to….it will not come on. I am pretty sure I have a clog or an air lock but I don’t think that’s all that is going on. Also the heater comes on and tries to heat the water and the temperature rapidly goes up on the panel and the tub turns off or I get the DRY error message. I am struggling here. I am about ready to set the darn thing on fire. I work on it all the time and nothing. AI am so frustrated. I spent a lot of money to have brand new everything and it has not worked one time yet….Retrofit kit they said. Basically plug and play they said. Brand new spa pack and pumps….it will work like a dream they said. Keep in mind that It set for about two years while I was buying and paying out each new piece. I cannot afford anything else for this thing and I can not afford paying someone to fix or work on it. I lay awake night after night praying that the next day it will work and I can disappear in the bubbly goodness and my pain can abate for a short period. My son does as well and I cant stand to see him suffering. Please help me. Point me in some sort of direction.

I've got this problem with my Balboa spa. Here's the problem. They heating element will not turn off when the pumps turn off so the hot tub reads as overheat. You can actually hear the water boiling inside of the heating chamber. I have replaced the board, water flow pressure switch and temp sensor. Still having the same problem. Does anybody have any ideas?

Hello all, looking for help getting my 2006 H2X Master Spa working. I'm new to having a spa tub, but a pretty crafty guy. Here's the situation: Moved the tub from Indy to Louisville, KY. Got it placed and electric hooked up. Filled it and for the first week nothing came on, finally realized I had the breaker terminated wrong. Got it working today,(it's 30 degrees here), and I'm trying to make sure nothing's frozen and/or broken. Looks like all the pipes are ok although I have a little leakage from one of the shut off valves from pump 2 but it seems to be running fine and circulating water through the standup jets. My screen is throwing a DR code, I cycled through 3 times and now it's showing me a DY Code. The manual says the DY code is Inadequate water detected in heater, Pump 1. Pump 2 seems to be cycling water through, Pump 1 doesn't even spin, and when you press the heat button it tries, but then clicks off (I can hear the click in the control unit)I'm wondering if their's air in the line or if there is ice in the line preventing water to flow into the heating element. I'm also wondering if I need to prime pump 1? Do I need to by a new pump? Additional info: Filters were cleaned, I haven't put any chemicals in yet, (should I?) I have pics, but it wont let me upload. Pump 1 is a Balboa 56FR, 4.5HP, 2 speed, 240, 10amp, model DJAYGB-3155MB, I've found one online for $455. I haven't even looked or tried the swimming cycles and pumps yet, anything i need to look out for here? Any help would be awesome, I'd like to get it running and heating asap or I will need to drain it.

My hot tub is making me crazy... I have a Calspa 2100 built in 2001 that had some weirdness going on... the jets button stopped working on my control pad (thus could not use hot tub with pump in high speed), I could only change temp to kick in low speed... (I could manually put the pump in high speed by engaging high speed relay). A new control pad was going to be a couple of hundred.. but because of it's age there was a chance the board was having issues.. so I changed the entire control pack. (besides button issue the hot tub was working). I installed a Balboa Spa Control System 54220-Z (VS501Z). I also replaced the original dually pump (it was so loud that it probably needed new bearings etc), I assumed a new pump would be more efficient and quieter. I purchased a Waterway 56 series executive pump. Part Number:3721621-1D Following the recommendations found online; I joined the TWO suction pipes together and they feed into suction side of pump. I joined the TWO return pipes together, and they split after the heater. The pump I just purchased will only run about a minute on low speed and turns itself off... it runs only about 10 seconds on high speed and turns it self off. My neighbor is an electrician and verified that the pump is wired correctly. My power is via 50 amp breaker via 6 guage wires to spa disconnect 50 amp GFCI, 6 guage wires to control pack. My electrician bypassed spa control pack and wired pump up directly to GFCI disconnect to test - pump operates the same - will only run about a minute on low speed and turns itself off... it runs only about 10 seconds on high speed and turns it self off. (we did this to see if control board was the issue) So obviously the issue is something with pump/motor. We did not test amp draw (he didn't have all of his tools at home). There is no obstruction, and the pump is moving water. We have tried with all jets open, some closed etc... and the pump has same issue. I think the motor has an issue. What other tests can I do to verify? Has anybody else had trouble replacing dually pump? Thanks, Steve

Hi Everyone, I just joined the community here looking for some help with my hottub which started acting weird. I *think* I mostly likely need a new pump, but I figured I'd post and get some opinions first. It's a 2010 and the spa was made by a company called Strong Spas. It has a Balboa Revolution (TP600) control system and a Water Way pump (model # PV-30-2N22C). I don’t know much more than that as the tub came with the house. Anyway, it’s worked fine for the last 3 years that we’ve had it. Today we went to use it and when I opened the cover the low power jets were running, I figured it was either heating or filtering, so didn’t pay much attention. I hit the Jet button again to turn on the full-power jets and the pump made a loud grinding/hum noise and then shutdown. If I hit the button again for low pressure jets they’ll come on and run normal, but as soon as I try to turn it to full power jets the pump makes a noise and then shuts down. I took the side panels out to investigate and couldn’t find anything obviously wrong, although the motor does seem to be running hot. I turned off the main power and left it for about 4 hours, then turned the power back on and tried again with the same results. If I watch the pump when someone else turns the jets up I can see it running normally, then as my wife hits the jet button the pump does step up to full speed (although noisy) for about 2 seconds and then shuts right down. If I don’t touch anything after it shuts down, every minute for so it’ll start itself up to full power, run/grind/hum for the 2 seconds and then shutdown. Turning the jets back to low power the pump resumes normal operation. So far my thoughts are: -Capacitor on the motor is too weak to get the motor to full speed – maybe not likely since it does run at full power for a second or two… -There’s a faulty pressure switch somewhere that’s shutting the pump down thinking that it’s dry (it’s not – I’ve checked and there doesn’t appear to be air in the system, and the water level is where it should be)? -The pump itself is bad/worn out and it putting itself into some kinda protection mode whenever the jets are turned up? Any help or advice with this is much appreciated.

I'm trying to learn about a spa that exists at a house I recently bought and I'm trying to understand when one would use the Sleep Mode. It's a Balboa topside control panel and I read that it will heat to 20 degrees F of the set temperature during filter cycles. So I generally keep it at 104 degrees F, so if I put it in sleep, it would heat to a maximum of 84 degrees? What would be the practical use of this? For when I go on vacation? Why not just set the spa to the desired lower temperature when I go on vacation? Also, I would think that if one used the sleep mode somewhat often, they would use more energy heating the spa back to the set temperature by 20 degrees, rather than maintaining the set temperature. Am I missing something? Any real point to using this mode?

I have a balboa EL2001M3 controller, and the bot tub will not heat. No error codes on startup, and the heater indicator on the control panel shows that it is heating. Checked incoming voltage at controller, 245 volts. Checked voltage at heater element leads, 000 volts. Resistance at heater leads with power off reads .009 ohms, within tolerance for a 5.5kw heater. Circulation pump appears to be running normally, good flow, both jet pumps come on and function normally. Not sure what to check next. Entire circuit board was replaced about four years ago by hot tub supplier that built the hot tub, everything has been fine since then. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I want to connect a low-voltage LED indicator light on the controller to show that the power is on (hard to see the control panel if there is a foot of snow on the cover ). Is there a connection point externally (preferred) or internally on the Balboa BP501 that has constant 5v or 12v power? I was thinking the WiFi module should, but I don't know where/how that is attached.

Hi everyone. So we finally caved and bought a new to us Clearwater, circa 1997. I don't know the exact model, I can't find it anywhere and like a meathead, I've lost the paperwork. It has Balboa controls on it. Long story short I got it all wired and filled and fired it up, and everything seemed fine besides a pretty substantial leak next to the niche. Water temperature was 62.7*F (ambient 65.5*F) out of the hose. After a few hours had gone by, it had climbed to 67.2*F. Awesome. I did some reading on biofilm, grossed myself out so ran to the nearest store to grab some cleaner. Was gone about an hour and a half total. I came home to the spa controls displaying "Oh." Water temperature was 67.7*F. Pump was not running. I decided to cycle the power at the breaker and when I did that, I was immediately greeted with an "Sn" code. Pump does not operate at all, doesn't go through priming, just goes straight into "Sn." Have cycled a few times, this is all I get. What paperwork I've fou​nd shows that typically a machine will operate with an Sn code, and it should flash with another number. Is this correct? I pulled resistance readings and showed 61.6kohms on the temp lead, and 54.4kohms on the high-limit (which if I understand properly is the one that goes to the shell, near the footwell. I do not have dip switches to enter a test/diagnostic mode. This was with the water temp at 63.3*F. If it matters, part numbers are as follows: Control Module: Balboa DU-GRDELT-DCA 51597 Top side controls: Balboa/Clearwater, two numbers 51558 and 33394 Sensor Assy: Balboa 30337 Edit: More information - tub has not been used for at least a year, probably much longer. Tub was stored dry, clean and covered.

Hello, I'm new to this forum, so I appologize in advance if this has been covered. I couldn't find the search function in the interface. I have a Z-110 that I purchased in the mid-90s when I moved into my new house. Still works great even after replacing components on a regular basis. After draining the tub and going on vacation, I returned, filled the tub and discovered that the single button on the analog topside unit that cycles through on-light-jets etc stopped working. The temperature set dial works, as does the light indicating that the heater is on. The only thing not working is the switch. The plug is an RJ-11 phono plug with 6 conductors. I ordered a replacement from Ace Pool Supplies at a good price, so the pain wasn't too great. However, this is my fourth replacement unit and I'm inclined to try to repair them if possible. Also, I'm not 100% positive that the topside unit is the point of failure, although it probably is. So, my question is has anyone on this forum ohm'ed out the connector so that I can easily test if the switch has failed? I called Balboa and asked the tech support guy what the pin out was and he acted like I was asking for top secret information. I'm an EE, so I can probably figure out a 6-pin connector, but I was hoping to save an hour and have more confidence in my measurements. BTW, I located a 6-pin socket with screw terminals that will make the testing process that much easier. It was $1.50 with $6 shipping. Thanks in advance for any assistance. arnie

Hello, I have QCA Spa Paradise Ultra XLP. I have problem with electricity. I have Balboa GL 2001 M3 and ML900 control panel. I have problem, because when I star my Whirlpool, then everything is OK, but PUMP 2 is not working. I run it on DUAL Phase. I have connected wires -. One wire goes to J57 to J28, another one is attached to J23. Everything seems to be OK (Fuse are OK), I have also tried to run it on 3 PHASE: Now Pump 1 is OK, Pump 2 is OK, Lights are OK, but Blower isn't working and Ultra Wawe Lounger does not work (I can't turn it ON)? Please for your help! Thank's, Andrew!

Hi, I have a coast spa running a Balboa system. I keep getting the " SnS " error code and the spa shuts down. (its flashing) What is thte fix for that? When I see it in that state as soon as a press the temp up or down button the spa comes back and it's happy. If I just leave it and ignore it. the spa cools down ....... Any help you can offer is appericated! Cheers' Dave

Please help. I have a spa crest hot tub. We have recently replaced the circ pump, and entire balboa box with circuit board and heating element etc. Circ pump is 24 hour continuous but kicks off when jets 1 is turned on causing dry and overheat error codes. The circ pump will continue to run simultaneously with jets 2. Im at the end of my troubleshooting skills. Any advice will be much appreciated!

I've tried everything here. Topside panel heat light is on. Replaced blower, pump, pressure switch and heating element over the winter. Spa wouldn't heat, had board checked out and a relay was bad. Replaced relay, still no voltage at heater. There is voltage coming into board, blower and pump both work. What could be causing the heater not to get voltage? Thanks in advance. Great Lakes spa, Balboa 410e circuit board.

Good afternoon ... I had to pull my spa pack to replace the pressure switch and decided to do the heater at the same time. While I was pulling things apart I noticed that the phone cord type connector to the top site control panel had some rodent damage that appeared to be old. I put the spa back together and now all the lights on the control are lit up and is is displaying "88888" as well as some other things. Up until this point I thought the controller was working properly. The buttons control the proper function and everything else on the spa seems to be working properly. Would it be safe to assume that me messing around with the tub aggravated the damaged wires causing this? Is is possible to simply replace the phone cord connector? Thanks! Jeff