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  1. Sundance Altamar, one owner. Installed in 2005 at our previous house. By the time we were ready to move in 2014 the small control panel had stopped responding and just before we were going to list the two speed (?) pump had developed a bearing noise. I pulled the pump meaning to have it rebuilt (there's a good shop in Tacoma, WA) but getting the house ready took precedence. We had the hot tub moved to our current house and set down on the driveway under the existing deck. Plan was to rebuild the deck to hold the hot tub. Plan came to fruition this year. Poor Altamar sat on the driveway neglected and ignored for about 7 years. I did little save for making sure to put a couple of heat lamps in the surround during the few below freezing days we have here in Seattle. It's now cleaned up inside (mostly) and out, waiting on some work on the surround wood and a good stain and seal. I did get the motor/pump rebuilt and it does hold water with seemingly no leaks. We are looking forward to using it (after a deep clean inside!) after we get the electricity run to it. I do need to pull the control panels up and off for obvious reasons- the small one doesn't work and the large one had some Morning Glory grow through it (I'm a bad person). I've had a cursory look but can't really tell how these pull up and off. Any suggestions? Thanks- Val I also included two of moving day; one of it on the driveway and one about to be lifted up on the deck. FYI deck has been structurally engineered to hold weight of hot tub and occupants.
  2. To my horror I recently became aware the lumber base (kickboard) on my 9 year old Sundance Hawthorne had gone rotten to the point where it was basically falling apart. Called Sundance about this who informed me they could not help with a spa this old, but did advise I should replace it as long-term it could affect the structural support as well as let vermin in under the tub. Tub has run 24/7 trouble-free for all 9 years through some very cold winters here in Buffalo, and is used on average about 3 times per week. I don't know if Sundance have moved away from using pressure treated lumber, but if not then they certainly should. Purpose of this post is to inform other owners of my solution (it worked out great for me but do this at your own risk!). Here's what I did... 1. Drain tub, remove cover, cover lift supports/brackets and rear corner surrounds. 2. With the help of my two adult sons pushed rear of tub forward around 3 feet in the concrete pad (3 people was a real struggle, 4 would have been much better). 3. Used a scissor jack to lift front of tub about 10" just to get a better grip underneath. Important - scissor jack placed directly under vertical frame strut. 4. Carefully lift tub onto its back using a LOT of cardboard between concrete pad and back of tub to cushion it. Secured with rope as it had a tendency to fall forward. 5. Used an aerosol spray can to indicate locations of all 4*2 cross members (see photo). 6. Unscrew outer 2*2 rotten kickboards. Cross members are only attached to these, two of them were also going rotten. 7. Visited lumber dealership to purchase replacement pressure-tread lumber, however they had close-out (50% off) sale on composite 4*2 so I went for this. Had to get two 8' lengths cut down center to give me the 4 outer pieces. 8. Drill pilot holes into outer composite 2*2 surrounds and screw to base of tub (over existing plastic sheet). Cut and screw 45 degree corner pieces. 9. Cut cross members to length and screw to 2*2 surrounds using aerosol spray marks for exact locations. 10. Four adults carefully lowered tub back onto concrete pad and back into final location (tip - placed sleeping bags under front end in case weight became too much and we had to drop it last few inches, but in the end not necessary). Total cost: $110 for composite plus $40 stainless deck screws. About 12 hours total labor.
  3. I have a 2004 Sundance Bahia that worked fine last year. Filled it for the season this year and there was no power to the top side control. It was old and faded anyway so I ordered one and installed it. No change. We live far enough away from a repair shop that parts switching is cheaper than service calls so I ordered a new board and transformer. Installed everything and the tub came on. I pushed the high speed button on the controls and the GFCI tripped. I wired a standard breaker in the box (we weren't getting in the tub) and the pump made one heck of a noise and blew the 30 amp fuse to the board in about 5 seconds. I pulled the two speed pump and took it to an electric shop that is absolutely the best around. After dropping it off I continue to screw with the tub. I am very worried about safety so I ran all new wire (three wire tub) reinstalled the GFCI and powered the tub without the pump. It powered up and looked to be acting normal. Topside was showing trouble codes and no breakers, fuses or GFCI was tripping. However, nothing is ever as it seems. The heater must have kicked on because in the time it took to grab a coke I went back to a hot dry fire on the heater (the pump was with the motor at the electric shop so the tub was empty). Finally picked up the pump and they said it was in great shape and the problem was on my end. His advice was that I was potentially getting way more voltage to the pump than is required. I wired the pump motor outside of the tub to run down issues. The GFCI immediately tripped and when I reinstalled the plain breaker the 30 amp fuse blew again. Because I'm a parts switcher and not a tech I started pulling wires on the pump motor and checking the GFCI. The only time it wouldn't trip is when the black(low) wire was connected. Unfortunately the circ pump to the heater runs constantly when i have the tub turned on now. We have had the hot tub for years now and the only thing that I can recall that was weird from last season to this one is that I found the breaker reset in June or July this year. I'm sure I would have done that but for the life of me I couldn't remember why would power up an empty hot tub in the summer. If anybody has ideas or there is a sticky post somewhere I missed I appreciate somebody pointing me in the right direction! Like my username states I will be divorced if I don't get this fixed soon lol!
  4. I'm a new hot tub user and for about a week now I've been having an issue of just above 0ppm bromine levels, my pH and TA are completely fine and in the correct range although the bromine is next to nothing, I have a Sundance Optima 880 and I tried using the Brominator and a floating dispenser both together and one at a time and neither has fixed my issue and now just yesterday when the jets are on the hot tub starts to create foam. During the refilling stage I used infused bromine granules as I heard this is something you're supposed to use to boost the bromine upon refill, this worked and I had high bromine levels although they naturally ended up dropping. I've tried, refilling the water, using non-chlorine shock treatment, cleaning the filter with a filter cleaner hose attachment
  5. Hi all, we’ve been enjoying the heck out of our recently purchased 2008 Sundance Camden spa but I would like to add a timer so I can keep the spa off until a designated time. I’m open to an analog or digital solution and I’m quite handy (able to perform any electrical / install work requires) but I just need to know if/how most people would accomplish this. All ideas are welcome! Please note the tub is currently hard wired to our main panel through a 40 amp breaker (240v). Thanks in advance for any ideas!
  6. Hi everyone, I live in Toronto and have narrowed down my choices to the Sundance Edison and Hotspot Rhythm but can't seem to decide which one is better based on a few angles: 1. Insulation - which product has better insulation? 2. Reliability and operating life - which product lasts longer and seldom breaks? 3. Parts and repair - if the product breaks, which one is harder to look /afford for parts & service? 4. Filtration system - which is better CLEARRAY® UV-C Technology + Filtration or FROG® In-Line Cartridge Ready? 5. Monthly costs - which product is more expensive to maintain with having to purchase supplies for filters, chemicals, etc? Appreciate any help and information you can share. I'm looking to finalize my decision in the next 2 weeks. Thanks! Ryan Toronto
  7. Hello my name is marco ( Netherlands) i need some help. my circuit board of my Sundance spa Entry 850 is broken. my son can repair it but can’t see the parts because there a little bit burned can anyone send me a good picture of the broken parts ? its a 750/850 controller board I included some pictures thnxxx
  8. Hello my name is Marcello, I got gifted a Sundance Marin Spa 850, I'm not sure what year it is but I believe it is around 2004 or so. I put it into place and hooked it up to a spa disconnect and all that good stuff. I replaced the discharge valve because it wasn't leaking just yesterday and was able to fill it up finally! After filling, I was able to turn it on. All the Jets and bubbles worked great, but I got a COLD (due to the cold water) FLO error on the display. I decided to run the Jets and set the filter to run for a little while to clear up any gunk and buildup in the pipes. (Prior to this, the hot tub hadnt been turned on for over a year). I walked away. When I returned 20 minutes or so later, the hot tub showed four dashes (watchdog error). I turned it off over night and tried again this morning to receive the same error. It turns on, flashes for a split second FLO2 and goes into watchdog mode. I've researched a bit and it looks like this error can mean a multitude of things. In this specific instance, I was able to turn it on and run everything for about 30 minutes until it went to that watchdog error and now it just goes straight to that error. Any ideas on what it could mean? A thousand thank yous in advance!
  9. Hi all, We just moved into a new house that has a 2010 Sundance Cameo spa. It had been drained for at least a few months before we moved in, and I suspect not working properly before that. I filled it and started it up, but I got a flashing flo error (jets working but no heat). Went through all the usual things (filter, air lock, etc..) and ultimately found a branch and some leaves in the flow switch, which we cleaned out, but the flo error persisted (actually became a flo2 error at that point). We assumed the flow switch was broken from the debris/clean out and forked out for a new flow switch. Unfortunately, we are still getting a flo error, and it doesn't look like any water is moving through the switch. From my understanding, this means it is likely the compression pump (or possibly the circuit board, which is big $$$). As this looks to be getting more and more expensive (the hot tub cover also needs replacing), I am starting to question whether it is worthwhile to spend another $1000-$1500 on a hot tub that is already 8 years old, and I suspect hasn't been well cared for (judging by the state it was in). I'm looking for a bit of advice. Thanks - any input greatly appreciated. Sylvie
  10. Hey Everyone, not sure if this has been discussed before, since I have found plenty of information about the Flo Error message in the Sundance spas. I haven't been able to track down any thoughts on what my specific problem is. Here is the backstory- inherited Sundance Capri (circa 1997) at the new house I bought. Great pool, started fine, but did not know how previous owner treated water, so I drained it, refilled it, got the source water profile, started with new treatment. Flo error message came on, service tech came out, 5 minute fix to blow the lines, there was air (very typical cause of the Flo error message). Also around this time, I got a brand new filter. Used it for a while, then noticed breaker was beginning to trip. Found out the source of the error, was the Air Blower went bad, so I unplugged it and used the tub for a little while. Flo message showed back up. When I shut off the breaker and turn it back on the jets work, heater brings it back up to temp, then Flo error comes back on after Jets/Heater turn off. I replaced the air blower, easy fix, that works fine now too, was hoping that might solve the problem, unfortunately still Flo error message comes back on. The reason I feel this is unique, is that every Flo error message conversation I come across, really only references a situation where the pump/jets/heater do not work at all. My error message only shows up after the pump and heater have worked to bring the spa up to temp. I can continue using it, as long as I keep the pump running (turning off breaker and turning back on) but then every morning having to do this draws so much electricity to get back up to temp. Question for you all, have you experienced this and what was your fix? Not calling out the techs again for an easy DIY fix, even if it means replacing parts, not afraid to do that either.
  11. I have an older (2003) Sundance Altamar 880 spa, which are going into protect mode (watch dog error, four dashes). I can reset the error by turning of the power with the circuit breakers, but the error reappear after some time. As long as the water is cold, the massage pumps operate and the error stays away, but as soon as the water is warm enough for the massage pumps to stop, the error appears. The display also shows the "OH" (overheat) error briefly before going into protection mode. I have removed the cover in front of the heater, and it is very hot to touch. I don't know if this is normal? I have read about the watchdog error on these spas, and many are suggesting that the capacitors may be bad. They seem fine here. I personally suspect the circulation pump, as it is suspiciously quiet. Could a failed circulation pump cause these errors? Thanks!
  12. My tub has completely stopped functioning to where the panel is now blank and none of the pumps can be triggered from the control panel or by power cycling the spa. The stereo works, I can control the LED lights from the control panel just fine, but nothing else works. As the title suggests, it is a 2013 Sundance Optima 880 with 240vac supply and two pumps. I just had the control panel replaced 6mo ago under warranty. Here are the troubleshooting steps I've followed thus far: Completely shut off power at circuit breaker for 24 hours and turned it back on. No change in status. I cycled the power after removing the control panel connection to the PC board hoping the recirculating pump would come on, but no luck. I removed the WiFi module that was in-line with the control panel, cycled power and no change in status. Checked power throughout the PC board including incoming 240vac, transformer input/output, and continuity of all fuses. All check out fine. By process of elimination, I suspected that it must be something with the PC board, so I decided to pull it out for closer inspection - after labeling the wires of course. I heard the capacitors could swell over time and you'd see a bulging at the top, but this wasn't the case. I then noticed something peculiar. There is a small integrated circuit chip adjacent to the capacitors that just didn't look right. It was surrounded by what looked like burn marks instead of the crisp green color of the PC board. I flipped the board around and noticed an indisputable dark spot where that chip is. See attached pics. Apparently, this chip is a voltage regulator. So, my question to this forum: Based on the troubleshooting I've done and the discoloration/deformation of this chip, would you conclude that the source of my problem is the PC board and I need to replace it? Pictures Burnt IC Chip Back of PC Board PC Board Model # PC Board Really appreciate any suggestions or wisdom on this matter. Much appreciated, Jon
  13. I am having trouble identifying the source of air bubbles in my spa. All air valves are off, and there are no bubbles when the pump #1 diverter is in either position, nor are there bubbles when pump#2 diverter is in the B position. The air valves all work as they should. However, when I move #2 diverter to the A position, bubbles mix in with the flow out of the footwell jets (where are should not be coming out at any time) I have replaced both diverter valves, and there does not seem to be a leak anywhere. Any thoughts on where I should look for a source of air intrusion into the flow for this one diverter position? Thanks! Jim
  14. Any suggestions how to resolve a non responding temperature heat button on a Sundance Caprio? - I found the spa set at 40 deg C (104 F). I turned it down to 34 deg C (93 F) as it was not being used. Some days later when we sought to turn it up to 37 deg and the heat button did not respond in any way. The cool button responds and I was able to reduce the display temperature to 18 deg C (64 F) which was strange as it always stopped at a minimum of some 33 deg C. I cannot raise the temperature display from 18 which it reads when the cool button is pressed only. The little red light is inactive at all times. Both the actual water temperature and display still read at 34.4 deg which is now some 2 weeks after the issue was found.. We have tried switching the spa off to "reset" but no change. Is it possible that because it was left for some time at 40 deg C during a period of hot weather days that it has "triggered" a thermal cut out or some other isolating feature? or has a sensor been affected? All other functions seem to be operating normally.
  15. I have a 2002 Sundance Cameo 850 and am trying to program/configure it for optimal energy use, and to NOT run the heater during peak electricity periods which would be between 7am and 7pm. Buy configuring my circ pump cycle to start at 7pm and run for a duration of 12hours (shutting off at 7am) and then turning on economy mode, I was hoping that this would prevent the heater from coming on during the day even when the tub falls below the set temp, but allow it to come on during the circ pump cycle of 7pm - 7am, when the tub calls for heat. It appears though that in encomy mode, the heat will only come on during a programmed filter cycle -- see experpt below from the manual: "In economy mode, the low speed pump #1 and heater turn on only during a programmed filter cycle or when either JETS sensor is pressed" I also have the 4 filter cycles setup such that none are running during the PEAK 7am-7pm period. This tub pre-dates some of the more modern controller capabilties, so I am limitted to what can be done. To best accomplish what I am trying to do, I am thinking of programming a filter cycle to run say for 2 hours starting around 7pm. While in Economy mode, the heat should run during this period and replenish the little bit of heat lost during the day when the heater does not come on. Any thoughts/experience on this??
  16. I have a 2003 Sundance Altamar. Awhile back my blower stopped working, but I never used it, so just left that alone. However yesterday I tried to turn on the main pump (2 speed one) and the indicators light up on the display, but pump doesn't come on. I hear a low humming/buzzing instead. Is the pump dead? If so, I know the part to replace it with (Jacuzzi 6500-261) but I'm also curious if I could just replace it with a 1 speed pump and save money. I never run it in low speed anyway, so having a single speed would be fine. That leads me to 2 questions.... 1. Will it mess up the board in any way if I replace the 2 speed pump with a single speed one 2. The outlet is at a 45 degree angle on this pump. Does anyone know of a compatible pump that has a 45 degree outlet on it in a single speed? Thanks for your help!
  17. I have a 2003 Sundance Sweetware Palmero hot tub which was working fine for years. I didn't run it for a year and then when I turned it back on it would trip the power breaker when the heater would click on. I checked around and everyone said it was a bad heater so I bought a new heater and installed it. No change. I then heard people say that it was my circuit board with a bad lead. I bought a new circuit board and installed it, NO CHANGE. I know the power is good because when I don't have the heater connected on the board the jets run fine. Gotta say this has me stumped! All help would be appreciated. Thanks
  18. How do you clear the --- Watchdog code on a sundance optima?
  19. We have a Sundance Altamar 850 (2003). Had a persistent FLO2 error last month and after 14 years replaced the FLO switch. All good. This morning we woke up to a solid FLO error. We replaced both filters and made sure all connections were good and that resolved itself. Now there is no light on the Ozonator and obviously no ozone icon on the panel. We unplugged the connector and checked the tub side to make sure there was power. There is. The ozonator is only a year old. So before I call for service which is expensive in my area, suburbs of Detroit, I am hoping for any and all suggestions. We have the Spa Eclipse Unit for our tub. The circ pump runs 24 hr. There is a good stream of small bubbles coming from the outlet in the tub. All jets seem to be working as they should. If in fact it was a bad unit my fingers are crossed that they will stand behind it. In the meantime, I am trouble shooting Thanks in advance, Debbie
  20. I'm just starting to research which hot tub to get. I can accommodate 8'x8'. Looking to seat 4+ people. I think I'd like to have 1 lounge seat so I can really massage my sore legs after exercise. I've been to two dealers so far. One recommended the Sundance Romona and the other recommended the Cal Spas Avalon. https://www.sundancespas.com/en-us/product-list/ramona http://calspas.com/product.php?id=374 Which one do you think is better and are there other brands/models I should be looking at? I'm in Scottsdale, AZ. Thanks!
  21. Good morning, all! My husband and I have been looking to purchase a hot tub for about a year now, but simply cannot bring ourselves to spend $6k+ on a brand new tub. I was poking around online yesterday and happened to find a used 2005 Sundance Cadence hot tub that a woman was giving away for free, as long as we haul. We went to check it out same day and loved it- it's a great tub and looked well maintained. We have to figure out how to move it, so I started calling a few local hot tub haulers. The one who got back to me said he would politely decline the job as the Sundance tubs from that time period are made with a type of wood that often rots out from underneath. He said the bottom of the tub may detach from the rest of it when we try to move it onto its side. My husband is very handy and it doesn't phase him that he may need to rebuild some of the base, but it scared me a bit. Has anybody dealt with this? Is this really a very common issue with the Sundance tubs? We'll now be moving it ourselves so we're trying to figure out those logistics, too. Thank you.
  22. HI, I have an older Sundance Spa. Recently I replaced the filter, the pressure sensor (precautionary) and the circ pump as it had failed. The spa now works almost perfectly except the HL warning keeps tripping at 93 degrees. If I re-set the GFI I can normally make it run for a few more minutes and get to 94 or 95 degrees and, if I'm lucky, I can keep repeating that and get it to 100 or 101 before it cools back to 93. Any ideas what could be the cause? I've attached photos of the unit. I know the HL sensor is the second red connector on the top right but not where the thermostat is or if there is a "heat well" to check? Is it possible there is a blockage after the heater that is causing to water flow to slow and peak in the heater element (if that's where the temp sensor is)? Thanks Rob
  23. Hi! We are looking at the sundance Chelsee, J365 and Caldera Salina. They all have been quoted at aroud $9600-9700 except for the J365 that we could get for $9234 for a 2016 floor model. Those are supoosed to be sale prices. for president day week end. 1.They dont seem to be willing to negotiate really. Is that common? They all went down from the original price before we even said anything, but that's their final price and that's it. 2. Are those reasonable prices? 3. Is it correct to assume to going to a lower series (j200, sundance 680...) might end up being more expensive because of shorter warranty, lower quality insulation...?We mostly want a spa for relaxation and dont need all kind of fancy jets. just something comfortable 4. My husband is 6'2'' and the Chelsee felt a little tight for him. any experience with that? Thank you!! Trying to make a decision pretty soon!!!
  24. I have a Calypso II spa, and pump #1 is running on low speed, 24/7. The spa has two large pumps (1 and 2 stage), and a circ pump that is wired into the Ozone accessory. The Circ pump should run all the time, but not Pump #1. See page 15 under Jets: http://www.sundancespas.ca/Communications/InstructionManuals/1997650.pdf Any ideas for troubleshooting? I am wondering if a solenoid may be failing (and how to test it), or if it is the electronics.
  25. Here's the background: I have a 2009 Sundance Certa 780, wired for 240V/60A which was purchased used in 2014 from a reputable shop with one year warranty, which is of course now expired. We’ve used it on average five nights a week since professional installation for 20 to 40 minutes per soak (I don’t know if that is considered a little or a lot, but I miss it already). I have no idea how much use it saw with the first owner, but it was in very good visual condition. Symptoms: The water no longer heats up. Heater light illuminates on the panel as expected. Both pumps work as expected. Pump one in both low and high modes, and pump two in high mode. Ozonator continues to blow bubbles when circulation pump is on. The filter is clean and there are no visible obstructions in any transparent lines accessible with the side panel off. Troubleshooting conducted to date: Confirmed the flow switch works via ohm meter. The circuit closes when pump is on and is open when pump is off. A flow error appeared on panel when I removed the J3 connector to test, but has not shown an error at other times. Confirmed the temp sensor is working. It reads about 21K ohms resistance and water temp confirmed via manual thermometer to be low 90’s farenheit. Measured voltage to “heater in” connectors to J7 and J8 at terminal block is 240v. Measured amperage to pumps to confirm inductive amp meter working correctly, but I didn’t get any reading on J7/J8 wires, or J9/J10 leads to heater when heater light came on (and heard relays click). With all power disconnected, I pulled J9/J10 and checked the wires from the heater, which registered an open circuit. No resistance on any setting. My conclusion is that I have a bad heater unit. What do the experts here think and is that reasonable on a seven year old spa? What other trouble shooting steps would you take prior to ordering a non-refundable part? So, if I’m correct and it’s the heater unit, it appears to be a Therm Products Heater C3229-2A for Jacuzzi and Sundance Heater Assembly 6500-402, 6500-403 120/240 Volt. If these conclusions are correct, where the heck can I find installation instructions? I’m comfortable with DIY, but having never worked on a spa before, so would like some info before I commit. For example, is it safe to assume the spa needs to be drained? Then it looks like there are a few wires to connect and a couple of hose connections. What else am I missing? Thanks in advance for the help.
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