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Found 8 results

  1. Hi new to this forum. Last week i replaced the leaking circ pump , refilled tub and powered on. Pump works fine and doesn't leak anymore ....however nothing else does. Control panel looks to be not working...screen trying to display over time but nothing works on buttons...thought it was locked but the unlock procedure doesn't seem top make a difference either. Panel display was looking a little ropey before hand...not sure if its damp inside or note. Searching on the internet looks like the panel can't be obtained anymore....any suggestions....i dont really want to get rid of of a perfectly good spa because of this. Got a call in to a local repair guy but he hasn't come back to me yet. Got led lights on circuit board...front logo flashing as expected....screen after time comes up with filter block check message, telling me to repower the spa. 4 buttons light up eventually but still dont work. Repower then screen blank/none legible ... wonder if there is an alternative top control panel that can be fitted, or take this one off and try and dry it. Can anybody give me advice please.
  2. I am on my 3rd main board for my Prodigy Hot Tub, it happens every time we unplug the hot tub to drain, clean and refill. As soon as we plug the hot tub back in we get the Green and Red lights blinking and she doesn't heat up but still circulates. Yesterday is the third time, the power went out from a storm and when she kicked back in the lights were blinking on the hot tub again. I unplugged it for a few minutes and plugged her back in and still blinking lights. We enjoy it between refills but not enjoying the expense of these boards. Any ideas on whats causing this?
  3. Hello, Need a little help, please. I changed out the water yesterday on my Hot Springs Spa (the Prodigy model purchased February 2005) and nothing is showing up on the temperature gauge. It was working perfectly before I changed the water. When I turned the power back on after changing the water (first the 20 AMp and then the 30 AMP -- can't remember which one was first but I tried it both ways) the temperature gauge came on for about half a minute and then went blank. When I press the plus or minus button to see the temperature, nothing appears. The heater is working though and the water heats up fine. The jets are working as well. Please advise. Thank you.
  4. I purchased a used Hot Springs Prodigy H hot tub. They originally had it wired using the 115 VAC wiring. When I installed it I went ahead and converted the tub to the 220 VAC converted Spa wiring. I did everything as described. Used 8-3 wire from the panel to the sub panel (55ft). then 10-2 and 12-2 wire from the two (30A & 20A) GFCI breakers in the sub panel to the hot tub (8ft). All wires are sealed in the liquid tight casing and fittings. I removed the jumpers on the Terminal block and installed one at the 4 & 5 locations and installed the program jumpers in locations 1, 2, 3, & 9 as directed by the owners manual and the wiring label on the back of the board cover. When I turn on power to the spa the LIM OK light is lit up green and the control unplugged is lit up red. Nothing will operate. I have triple checked everything and I can not seem to figure out what I am over looking. The control is plugged in and I witnessed it with my own eyes working correctly before I swapped it to the 230 VAC converted spa requirements. What am i missing?
  5. Hello. I have a 2002 Hotspring Spa Prodigy that was in perfect working order. Yesterday I turned on the clean cycle and noticed a trickle of water coming out of the vent located at the bottom of the tub in the front corner on the left side of the tub (where the circular hole with wire mesh is). The leak can be varied in flow by adjusting the jet selector dial. The main compartment where the heater and controls are is dry but I noticed the black 3-way connector (with 2x 3/4" tubes and 1x 1/8" tube) has a little water in the vertical 3/4" tube and the 3/4" horizontal tube. Can anyone tell me what this three way pipe does and if this can be the cause of my new leak? I read somewhere that this pipe is no longer used in newer models. If this is the issue, what part do I need to order? I took pictures that you can view here: https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A25yeZFhMx3GE Hopefully you can see the water I'm talking about. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide! Cheers! Alan
  6. Hello all, this is my first post to this forum. Have a bit of a problem. My wife and I have a 2005 Hot Springs Prodigy (Model H) hot tub that has been working great for almost 2 years. Recently I started hearing a clicking noise coming from within the components compartment. At the same time our tub wasn't hot anymore, but only warm. The circulation pump and jets were working fine at that time. I opened the IQ2020 panel and heard the clicking coming from the heater board. I noticed that the white heater wire also was darkened, like it had shorted out and fried the wire & board. I did some testing with a multimeter and found that the black & white leads on the heater board weren't giving any volts. This heater board was the original 73355 board. Finding there was a newer heater board (74618), I ordered that and just received it yesterday. I installed the new board (old board had a burned circuit on backside) and hooked up all the wires as directed by the instructions. This included using the same white wire from the heater that was darkened, but I had cut the old connectors off. I got everything installed and in place, turned on the circ pump breaker and then the heater breaker, but unfortunately there is still a clicking noise... the same as before. The really bad thing now is that where the jets were working before I changed the heater board, now when I turn on the jets there is just a click and now the jets do not come on at all. This circ pump also is not pushing bubbles up. FYI - I did fill the tub before all of this through the ozone standpipe filter to ensure there wouldn't be any airlocks. Also, during all the testing I did not have any filters on. On the main circuit board, the LIM OK light is on and green and the HEATER ON light is also on and red. When I used the multimeter and tested voltage on the new heater board, I'm getting about 130v (where I was getting 0 on old board). When I tested the white and black wires coming from the heater, I am getting a sound from the multimeter. I'm at wits end with this... the heater is a Watkins No Fault. I'm not sure if a bad heater would cause all this, but as I mentioned earlier, the HEATER ON light is on and red, which I think means the tub is getting a good signal from the heater and thinks it's heating, but I could be wrong. Does anyone have any ideas of other things to try? My issues are: 1) the clicking noise when the heater breaker is turned on 2) the circ pump and jets are no longer working (multimeter is not getting any signal when tested on the main circuit board - I'm no genius on how to test circuits/electricity, but I will definitely test anything anyone has ideas on). Thank you for your time in reading this and any help you can provide.
  7. Looking at a used 2003 Hotsprings Prodigy for $3500 vs new 2012 Jetsetter or Limelight for almost double that ($6600/$6000). All are from a reputable dealer. The used Prodigy was (reportedly) well taken care of; owner traded for new smaller HS tub when moving from large home to a townhome. It comes with 1 year warranty. I'd like a 7 - 10 year life for the tub. Thoughts?
  8. Hi All. I live in the NY metropolitan area. Received these prices from dealer: Aria: $10,695 (ozone, steps, cover, sub-panel, free delivery, in home orientation) and a $100 and he'll "throw in" a lift (although didn't say which kind). Prodigy: $6895 (ozone, steps, cover, sub-panel, free delivery, in home orientation) and $290 he'll throw in a lift. What's your "take" on these prices? These are dealer's first offers. I haven't countered. Of course, he said at the outset that "it's the best he can do". Incidentally, you folks have any preferences with the cover lifts? Which ones and why? Are there any other units with other brands that come close to these in reliability, efficiency, ease of use, etc.? Thanks!
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