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  1. Hi, I have a 2002 Clearwater Spas St Andrew, it has 2x 3HP Waterway pumps (2-speed, 3721221-1D) and a Balboa SUV M7 control board. Pump 1 acts as circulation pump on low speed. Pump 1 recently failed, which also popped one of the two 25A TD Fuses on the board. I replaced Pump 1 and the fuse with new units, but the pump will not come on in low-speed mode, which is what circulates the water through the heater, so the spa is still unusable. You hear the board relay click when the low-speed should come on, but nothing happens. It works fine in high speed mode. If I swap Red and Black, it will run in Low-speed (only). I tried swapping the new pump with pump 2, and the symptoms stay with the pump 1 position, not the physical pump. All other controls and display work correctly. I have verified the wiring from control board to Pump 1 is good. I suspect something on control board, like maybe a faulty relay, but I don't know how to test that so I'm at a bit of a loss at this point. I'm hesitant to drop another $300 on a new board without know for sure that's going to fix the issue, as I assume they are not returnable once installed. One other thing I noticed is my 50A GFCI 'Test' button is not tripping the breaker, but I did validate the input voltage at the control board is correct (Wh<>Bk 119V, Wh<>Rd 119V, Bk<>Rd 238V) Any suggestions appreciated, thanks.
  2. Greetings. I have Sundance Majesta that needs a replacement pump. The rubber mounts have torn and need replaced. They are just like these, which I've purchased 4 replacements as well. The threaded metal "bolt" isn't one piece. There is a top and bottom "bolt" with the thick rubber bushing between them. But, I can't seem to get the 4 old "stems" out of the wood floor (the rubber bushing and top bolt have broken off and been removed). Any suggestions on how to remove these old stems? Can't get enough "bite" from channel locks. I assume they just unscrew from another threaded metal piece pressed into the bottom of the flooring hole (or something like that). Or, can I cut a new piece of pressed board to put over the old area, screw it to the floor and mount the pump on that? Looking for advice. Thanks!
  3. Hi there, I have aquired a Chinese unbranded hot tub that is approx 8 years old. It had been standing drained and unused, for approx 6 months before we got it but was assured it worked before being drained. After making all the electrical connections it was tripping the RCD. I have disconnected all the pumps and heater from the relay board and the control panel now powers up fine. I have however tested the relays with a multimeter and it appears that they are stuck on closed (powered). I have concerns that the pumps ( Whirlpool LP200) are also faulty as they appear to have continuity on the cables feeding them between Phase and neutral - I assume this is incorrect however all pumps as well as the heater test like this??? Note - the cable that feeds the heater appears that it may have got hot in the past inside the control box as it had become brittle. This shad now been cut back ready for reterminating. Do I need new pumps / heater all round or am I missing something?? Thanks Sam
  4. I have a 2004 or 2005 Caldera Aquatic Melodies Elation Spa. 1. I have several jets that have lost parts (the center is gone out of a Euro Pulse jet, some small ball bearings came out of a VersaSsage Jet, etc. I cannot figure out how to remove the jets to replace or repair them. The videos I have seen show them being twisted counter-clockwise past the adjustment stop-point, then pull out, but these jets are all counter-sunk into the tub walls and there is no way to get a good grip on them to turn them hard enough.... is there a tool that is specifically for this, or am I going to have to rig up an oil filter wrench or something to do it? 2. There are 2 pumps, Pump #1 has 1 speed, and pump #2 has 2 speeds, pump 1 will turn off and on every now and then... there doesn't seem to be any method to it's behavior, we may use the spa for a week without it ever going off, then it will start doing it every day... it will turn off for about 2 minutes, then run anywhere from 2-20 mintues before turning off again. Is it perhaps overheating? Pump #2 makes a noise on high speed, as if it is churning air through it every 2 seconds or so... it seems to pump well, and there is no noticeable change to the pressure when it is "whirring and grinding". Any assistance on these issues would be appreciated!
  5. New Artesian Island Elite spa. How to determine the Optimum Circulation Pump Setting For Captiva Elite for 2 ppl?. Default is 12+12 hrs (24hrs 7 days a week) - always on. Seems like for warmer months 8 and 8 with two 4hr breaks (or perhaps even 6 and 6) would extend pump life with nominal effect on heating and filtering. During Winter I would reset to run 12+12 to allow continual low level heating. Looking for optimum power efficiency and pump life. Thoughts?
  6. I have a pretty old (1998) California Cooperage tub, Model 105. Replaced the pump and heater last year and all was working perfect, up until a couple weeks ago. The filter cycle, which normally runs for 3 hours every 12 hours, has been cycling ON and OFF constantly during that 3 hour period... For example, during the 3 hour filter cycle, the pump (and sometimes the heater) will run for only about 2 minutes, then will shut off for about 20 minutes. This happens constantly throughout the 3 hour period. I initially though it was the pump overheating, but it does not get hot and there are no error codes. Also, if I manually turn on the pump, high or low, with the control panel, it runs totally fine for as long as I want it to. It has no problem maintaining the set temp throughout the day either. Could it be a circuit board issue? I believe its the original board still...Thanks in advance!
  7. I bought a used 2003 Sundance Altamar spa. Everything seems to be working except the main 2 speed pump. It is supposed to kick on when the heater is on occasionally and I can hear it trying to but it won't start. It hums a couple seconds then quits. It seems like a breaker iis kicking or something. After a few minutes it will try again with the same result. The pump spins fine by hand and doesn't seem to be restricted so I took off the run capacitor and tried to check it with an ohm meter. The readings seem to go up while the meter is on it and hold voltage . If I discharge it then it begins all over when I hook the ohm meter again. This seems to me like it is working correctly. So next I took off the start capacitor. Upon visual inspection it had some gooey looking black stuff on it so I ordered a new one. (pretty cheap so why not?) I installed the new start capacitor and the pump came on for a couple of seconds then shut off again. The new start capacitor felt hot. I took it back off. After a few minutes when the internal breaker kicks I tried the button again. The pump ran again for a couple of seconds with no start capacitor then shut off again! WTH? Now I'm real confused. Upon closer inspection with both capacitors removed I turned the pump on again and it ran again for a couple of seconds and Isaw a small wisp of smoke coming from the pump motor. Do I simply need to order a new pump? When it runs it sounds a bit noisier than the other pump that works fine. I would hate to put one on and still have the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. EDIT FOR ADDITION OF INFO: There are no error codes displayed, The control buttons seem to work just fine IE: If I hit the pump control button the icon for each speed comes on. Pump just makes a humming noise and then turns off after a few seconds. Will not come back on for about a full minute or two then a click then it will try again if I hit the button again. Pump turns by hand ok. Half the jets are not working. The recliner tries to work a bit on low on the times it came on for a few seconds. Now it won't come on at all. Just hums and then shuts off.
  8. I have a 2003 Sundance Altamar. Awhile back my blower stopped working, but I never used it, so just left that alone. However yesterday I tried to turn on the main pump (2 speed one) and the indicators light up on the display, but pump doesn't come on. I hear a low humming/buzzing instead. Is the pump dead? If so, I know the part to replace it with (Jacuzzi 6500-261) but I'm also curious if I could just replace it with a 1 speed pump and save money. I never run it in low speed anyway, so having a single speed would be fine. That leads me to 2 questions.... 1. Will it mess up the board in any way if I replace the 2 speed pump with a single speed one 2. The outlet is at a 45 degree angle on this pump. Does anyone know of a compatible pump that has a 45 degree outlet on it in a single speed? Thanks for your help!
  9. We recently bought a Masterspa LSX from about 2004. The circulation pump had been completely rusted and seized, so after replacing it and fixing a few leaks, it seems to run good as new. I noticed on the control board dip switches there is a setting for the circ pump to only run when the temperature falls below 3 degrees of the setpoint. The manufactures default setting is to run 24 hours. I changed the switches according to the setting for the 3 hour temp threshold, reset the breaker, and waited, but it still runs constantly despite the temperature. Am I missing a step here? Thank you for your time.
  10. Are these things standard size? Can I get these at Home Depot?
  11. Replacing the Jet Pump motor on my 2004 Caldera Spa, and cannot get the pump section off of the motor. There doesn't seem to be any bolts/screw/nuts I can loosen to remove it.
  12. I have a Calypso II spa, and pump #1 is running on low speed, 24/7. The spa has two large pumps (1 and 2 stage), and a circ pump that is wired into the Ozone accessory. The Circ pump should run all the time, but not Pump #1. See page 15 under Jets: http://www.sundancespas.ca/Communications/InstructionManuals/1997650.pdf Any ideas for troubleshooting? I am wondering if a solenoid may be failing (and how to test it), or if it is the electronics.
  13. Hey guys, first post here, looking to get some insight. I've got an older Sunrise Spa hot tub that I picked up off craigslist 5 years ago. Until I mothballed it for a year to rebuild my house the thing worked great, especially for what i paid for it. Now I've relocated it into it's new home under my deck and a bunch of problems have come up I assume from sitting for a year. First thing i noticed once i got all wired up was one of my 2 motors was seized, I'd hit the jet button and I'd hear a buzz in the motor, but it wouldn't spin, even after breaking the shaft free. So I enlisted the help of a good friend of mine who works at a local Motor & Pump repair facility, they work on stuff from spa sized up to 1000hp industrial size. Before he got to my house, the other motor which was working, also died, same symptoms, motor buzzes, doesn't spin. At that point i also noticed my Recirculating pump seal was gone and flinging water everywhere of the shaft. We pulled all the pumps and motors out of the tub and he took everything apart, all my motors appear to be fine, capacitors seem to be alright, bearings are OK, but not great and since we have everything apart we're replacing all the seals and bearings. Unfortunately during the disassembly process, both of my impellers got destroyed because the shafts had gotten so corroded. I looked at the impellers which had tons of part numbers on them for all different HP ratings. So I saw my motors said executive 48, 5.0HP, so i ordered 5hp impellers. This is where my problem/question comes in. The impellers showed up and they're different, they're about 1/4" thicker then my factory impellers, same exact diameter. So I looked closer at my stock ones and noticed near one of the fins inside the impeller it says 3hp. So my question is, can i run this 5hp impeller on my 5.0hp motor? or should i go through the extra expense and hassle of swapping it out to a 3hp impeller? What negative effects might i see running this 5hp impeller? Thanks.
  14. Hi Everyone, I just joined the community here looking for some help with my hottub which started acting weird. I *think* I mostly likely need a new pump, but I figured I'd post and get some opinions first. It's a 2010 and the spa was made by a company called Strong Spas. It has a Balboa Revolution (TP600) control system and a Water Way pump (model # PV-30-2N22C). I don’t know much more than that as the tub came with the house. Anyway, it’s worked fine for the last 3 years that we’ve had it. Today we went to use it and when I opened the cover the low power jets were running, I figured it was either heating or filtering, so didn’t pay much attention. I hit the Jet button again to turn on the full-power jets and the pump made a loud grinding/hum noise and then shutdown. If I hit the button again for low pressure jets they’ll come on and run normal, but as soon as I try to turn it to full power jets the pump makes a noise and then shuts down. I took the side panels out to investigate and couldn’t find anything obviously wrong, although the motor does seem to be running hot. I turned off the main power and left it for about 4 hours, then turned the power back on and tried again with the same results. If I watch the pump when someone else turns the jets up I can see it running normally, then as my wife hits the jet button the pump does step up to full speed (although noisy) for about 2 seconds and then shuts right down. If I don’t touch anything after it shuts down, every minute for so it’ll start itself up to full power, run/grind/hum for the 2 seconds and then shutdown. Turning the jets back to low power the pump resumes normal operation. So far my thoughts are: -Capacitor on the motor is too weak to get the motor to full speed – maybe not likely since it does run at full power for a second or two… -There’s a faulty pressure switch somewhere that’s shutting the pump down thinking that it’s dry (it’s not – I’ve checked and there doesn’t appear to be air in the system, and the water level is where it should be)? -The pump itself is bad/worn out and it putting itself into some kinda protection mode whenever the jets are turned up? Any help or advice with this is much appreciated.
  15. This must be my day for problems! Just posted a question in the hot tub section and now this.... I accidentally left my Hayward sand filter on in the closed position overnight and it blew the main pipe leading to the pump which then pumped the pool water out to below the skimmer. After finding this and this, I reattached the hose, refilled the pool, then returned the sand filter to the "filter" position the next morning. Since then, I am hearing guggling sounds under the multi-port valve, and the filter basked has loads of bubbles when pumping. The pump primed properly after reattaching and changing to "filter". So, I don't know if I have blown the spider gasket or what. I can't find any air leaks either. Any suggestions?
  16. Anybody have any advice on the direction I should go? I have a Clearwater Spa that I just inherited from a cabin I bought. The third pump on the tub was badly rusted and when pushed the button to fire it up a snowflake looking icon appears on the controls. I ordered a new pump and installed it, plugging it into the same slot on the circuit board as the old pump. When I fire pump one and two they work well but the icon looks different (swirly thing). The new pump however will not fire and the icon appears to be for a blower motor (snowflake). When I look at the wiring diagram the slot I plugged the new pump into says its for an optional third pump not a blower. I also switched the new pump to one of the other pumps terminals to check if the new pump worked and it fired run up. Just looking for a little advice on where look before I call a tech. Was hoping it was something simple that I'm just not seeing. Circuit board is a BC2003. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  17. Hello, I have a 1999 Sundance optima Spa. i recently bought a SpaCuzn Core insert from the manufacturer. Long story short, it was the incorrect size, and got sucked in the intake. The pump shut down. I shut the breaker off immediately. We drained the tub and retrieved the filter inset and put the tub back together. At the time of the incident, the pump was only 7 months old. Afterwards, the pump felt like it had diminished flow, but was working on both a low and a high speed. About a month later, the pump stopped working all together. We drained the tub once again, and after taking pump apart, we discovered that in the process of the insert getting sucked into the intake, it broke part of the plastic filter housing and that small piece of plastic also got sucked into the impeller and had been rolling around in there this whole time. We just replaced the pump with a brand new one. We were excited to get back up and running, but are having having the same problem - we push the button on the panel and it shows both 1 and 2 speed, we hear a click and the pump does not turn on. So, draining the tub again and are in search whatever part we need. Any ideas?? Thank you!
  18. I've got a Caldera Geneva hot tub that I bought new in the fall of 2012. Aside from replacing the cover this year, I've really not had any major issues with it up until now. Yesterday, I noticed water on the ground around the edge of the spa. I pulled the side panel off to check things out. There was water around the circulation pump. It was leaking out slowly. It appears to be leaking from the large ring that you can tighten with a pair of channel lock pliers. I tightened the ring but it did nothing to stop the leak. My questions are: Is there an O ring that I can change within the large ring in the middle that I tried to tighten? If there is an O ring, where can I buy it? If there is no O ring, do I need to replace the whole pump? If I need to replace the whole pump, where is a good place to buy one? I've attached pictures to show you what I'm dealing with.
  19. Hi Everyone, I've been referencing these forums for a while now to help maintain and troubleshoot issues with my spa and now am hoping that someone may be able to help me figure out what is going on with my G3 tub. So, after having my tub shut down for about a year now I've been trying to get it up and running again. After flushing the tub, cleaning it and refilling it I was getting a DR error code. At first, foolishly, I thought it might be the heating element being burned out as it was getting old but even after replacing it still was giving me that low flow error message. After replacing the element I realized that jets on half of the tub actually were not functioning and that although the Jet 1 button worked flawlessy, when I hit Jet 2 I was hearing a loud humming noise instead of the usual pump sound. At this point I am THINKING it might be something to do with the capacitor as the bearings seem to work fine and I can spin the impeller inside of the pump with no resistance at all. However, I also noticed that the rod that spins the impeller looks absolutely terrible while the capacitor looks pristine. I've linked an imgur album below of photos I took yesterday to show what I'm talking about. Any ideas? http://imgur.com/a/w304C
  20. Hello, I have a Bullfrog model #362 spa, the control box is a Balboa EL 1500. I've had the spa for 5 years, it has worked well until recently. The first thing I noticed was the GFCI tripped last May, but I had been washing off the deck near the spa and thought maybe it was from that, moisture possibly getting inside, but don't really know. It has since tripped a couple more times at random the last few months, shutting the entire spa down. I don't know if that is a separate issue or if it could be related to the pump/heater issue as well. The spa has two pumps, when one or both are turned on in either low or high speed, they are supposed to automatically shut off after 30 minutes. What sometimes happens is after pump 1, which has the heater assembly, shuts off automatically as it's supposed to, if turned on high again for another 30 minute cycle it will shut off prematurely, in roughly 10-15 minutes and can't be turned back on, even though the light on the display panel indicates that pump 1, is on. If pump 2 is turned on high as well at the same time, it will remain on and function normally. While pressing the pump 1 button after it shuts down, you can hear a clicking sound and sometimes on occasion a 'dr' or 'dr4' code will appear, but not always. After 30 minutes or so, pump 1 can be turned on again and bascially act 'normal'. I've tried resetting the spa by turning it off at the circuit breaker after pump 1 shuts off prematurely, to see if that would reset it sooner, but pump 1 remains shut off when powered back up, until a certain time period has passed, after which, it will function bascially "normal' again, at least until you try to run it through another 2nd 30 minute cycle on high where it may or may not, shut off prematurely. On low speed or during a maintence cycle circulating the water, pump 1 will stay on continually, i.e. not shut off prematurely, and it heats the water without any issue or error codes. I have replaced the filters, drained and refilled the spa, taking care to fill it so an air lock wouldn't develop. While the spa was drained, I looked inside the heater and pump 1 impeller and did not see blockage of any kind. Both the pump and heater, at least to my untrained eye, don't seem to be rusted or corroded. I am wondering if perhaps it might be a sensor issue? The spa also has an ozonator, I don't know if that is of any importance or not. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or advice in dealing with this problem. I live in a remote area so it's expensive to get a technician out so I'm trying to explore as many options as I can before having to resort to doing that or at the least have some knowledge of what may or may not be causing the issues.
  21. Please help. I have a spa crest hot tub. We have recently replaced the circ pump, and entire balboa box with circuit board and heating element etc. Circ pump is 24 hour continuous but kicks off when jets 1 is turned on causing dry and overheat error codes. The circ pump will continue to run simultaneously with jets 2. Im at the end of my troubleshooting skills. Any advice will be much appreciated!
  22. Hi Everyone. Thankful there is a forum for pool aficionados to go to for help. Our issue: We have a Hayward CX1750 re filter (cartridge is perhaps 18 months old and the pool is rarely used (and always spotless) so to me the cartridge has not seen very high mileage), and a Sta-Rite 1 hp (1.65 hp) pump model p6e6e-206L running on a 20,000 gallon saltwater pool. recently added cyanuric acid so I needed to leave out filter baskets for a couple days. Ran through the process. Of course that is supposed to raise the pressure some for a couple of days. After four or five days, realized that pressure was staying high with the filter so I power washed the filter. Now, reassembled, the pressure has dropped from about 22psi to about 6-7 psi, which seems low compared to the typical average of 13-15psi for our pool. More importantly, the pump sounds like it has little stones in it EXCEPT when I reduced the flow at the intake on the skimmer (I just stuck some fingers in the intake pipe), which naturally increases suction. When I do that, the sound of small stones rolling around in the pump just goes away. Can't stand there with my hands in the pipe forever. I hope that somebody here has experienced this. Disassembling the pump doesn't look challenging, so if it seems that the impeller is at the heart of things, I can do that, but when we restarted the pump, it ran nearly silently for the first 8-10 seconds, then the stones noise kicked in, which suggests to me that there is nothing clogging the impeller. Any experience with this? If so, suggestions welcome very much. Thanks for reading! Bill
  23. I have a problem with my spa pump tripping the 50amp GFCI breaker. I have been through everything I can think of with this spa. It has 2 2 speed pumps, one which connected to the filter and heater (pump 1) and one that is attached only to some jets (pump 2). Both pumps are identical, new 2 speed 240V pumps. I have also recently replaced the heater, ozonator, and GFCI breaker. I have a Balboa MAS225 control board. Pump 1 runs on schedule because it is used to filter and heat, it comes on as soon as the hot tub is started up (breaker turned on). Pump 2 only comes on when you turn it on using the top control panel. Pump 1 will trip the breaker about 5-10 seconds after starting the spa. However, if I take the filter out and open the filter can, it will run with out tripping, so it seems that maybe it is pulling to much current. I have looked for any clogs and have determined all the pipes and tubes to be clear. A strange mystery is that if I turn on pump 2 as soon as the breaker is flipped on and the tub is starting up, the breaker won't trip. The second I turn off pump 2, pump 1 trips the breaker. If I unplug the pump 1 from the control panel, all is fine. If I switch the wiring for pump 1 and 2, pump 2 will come on automatically and run as if it were the filter/heater pump and won't trip the breaker. While it is running I can turn pump 1 will run just fine. I've even switched the pumps via plumbing, and it dosen't matter, the pump that is connect to the filter and heater will trip the breaker, unless the other pump is on, or unless I open up the filter canister (I also have a new filter). Does anyone have any clue what could be the problem? I already wasted $110 on a new GFCI that didn't solve the problem and I don't want to buy a new control board only to have that not fix the problem, and besides, I'd like to try to replace a control board component if possible. At this point it seems all that's left is the transformer or the control board. I also don't think its any relays as switching the wiring doesn't switch which pump is causing the problem. I'd appreciate any help, or even guesses. Thanks!
  24. I would like to buy a variable speed pump that is quiet and energy efficient, with a digital display/timer. When I go to the Pentair website they have several different ones to choose from but I don't know which one is right for my pool. I have a 18,000 gallon inground gunite pool. It is salt chlorinated, not heated, and there is no spa attached. The pump I have currently is hayward 3/4 hp. A neighbor with a pool told me they love their new Pentair brand, but I would also be open to a Hayward brand. Any advice on which is proper for me?
  25. Just purchased a variable speed motor (10A max), and decided to completely re-wire from the house to the pool. Old switches and receptacles were rusty, etc and seemed like a good time to upgrade everything. Running 10-gauge wire out to pool inside pvc conduit the entire length. Would like to install a plug end on the pool motor instead of hard-wiring, so I can easily remove pump/motor assy for the winter here in CT. Using a US MOTORS/EMERSON ECOTECH EZ #EVSJ15-NS Variable Speed Motor wired for 230V. Motor only calls for 3-wire connection (L1-black, L2-red, and Ground-Green). However, when I look at 30A and 50A receptacles, appears latest code (after 1996) calls for 4-wire receptacles and plugs for 230V appliances. I have a 4-conductor 10g wiring running from main panel to the GFCI enclosure on the house. Should/can I run 3 wires out to pool (eliminating white wire), install a 3-prong receptacle, and run a 3-prong plug-in from the motor. Or, should I run 4 wires out to pool, install a 4-prong receptacle, use a 4-wire plug on the motor, but just not connect the white wire? Don't want to run 4th wire out too pool, if it's not going to be used, and at cost of copper wire (x 60 ft), seems like a waste, unless req'd by code. And. . . if required by code, why isn't a brand new VS motor setup for a 4-wire connection? I am obviously mounting everything in weatherproof boxes (was planning to use 30A or 50A weatherproof enclosures from GE designed for outdoor RV hookups). Hoping some electricians chime in and can lend some guidance. Trying to wire and pick up parts this weekend, so any comments today would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
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