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Hi All, I have a question on using MPS with the bleach/dichlor method. I'd like to use some to assist the dichlor/bleach with oxidization. It sounds like a good idea to keep my chlorine demand low and there doesn't appear to be any significant downsides. My TA is low at 50ppm. My pH is good at 7.6 but I have seen it drift up at times with use so using MPS should also help me keep pH on the lower side if I understand correctly. I've also read that MPS can result in a false high combined chlorine reading. With my K-2006 test kit, I'd need to use the K-2041 to remove this interference. It's $30 for 3/4 of an oz.. How much of this deox reagent in K-2041 do I need to add during a CC test? How long would this K-2041 kit last with daily tests. I'm hoping to hear from people who use (or have decided not to use) MPS with bleach/dichlor and whether using it is worth the cost of dealing with the K-2041. Or if straight bleach is just as effective and easier overall, even if you need to use more. Thanks, Rob

I have a 6 month old Artesian Nevis spa which appears to have ozone and UV sanitizers installed since the lights for those are illuminated on the panel and there are little bubbles coming out from the footwell like the service tech at the dealer said there would be. I also have a Microsilk system which produces the tiny oxygen bubbles. When I got it, we filled according to instructions using a dichlor system. No issues and kept the chlorine pretty minimal, adding more after each use, since we always showered first and went in au natural. I had to go out of town for 3 months, so turned the heat down to 50 (although ambient temp was high enough to probably keep it at 65 at least) and switched to bromine floater with the nature 2 stick, which seemed to keep things nice the whole time. Drained and cleaned it, soaked the filters (which still looked brand new) in vinegar and water overnight, refilled and decided to try the Spa Frog system. I used the start up packet which came with the spa frog kit (PH and Alk and hardness all good) and dialed the bromine to where it was suggested. The next day, no bromine reading, so I figured I would stick the floater with bromine tabs in the tub to help it out since I had read about others needing to do this. Left it for a couple of hours with the floater open about an inch and took a soak. I don't remember testing the water before I got in, so i'm guessing I didn't! After soaking for 20 minutes (my max time) I did my usual routine of emptying my bladder and showering. Two things happened. My eyes burned like crazy in the shower once water hit them. I thought maybe I had gotten shampoo in them, but this was really painful and took ages to wash out with water and soothing eye drops. A few minutes later, my whole urinary tract was irritated and painful, radiating to my lower back. Saw the doctor since I was worried about a possible UTI, but nope. Just irritation and inflammation. So I am wondering what it is that triggered this. I don't seem to have a bacteria problem since the bromine levels seem to stay up well over two days without the floater in the tub and no use. I had used a bromine floater system in my last hot tub with no problems. Could it have been the start up packet chemicals that came with the Spa Frog? I didn't add any MPS until after I had gotten in that first time, so that wasn't it. Do people have a reaction to the silver in the frog system sometimes? I wear silver jewelry with no problems. Or was it likely that the bromine level was just too high after two hours of the floater plus the frog? I did leave the floaters in the tub with me for about 10 minutes, since they stayed in their own corner, but I know i should have probably taken them out. I was thinking about flushing, draining and refilling the tub and switching back to dichlor, but thought I would get some feedback before going through all that in case it's just chemicals that needed to burn off a bit. Thoughts?? Thanks! I am dying to get back in the spa but afraid to until I have some answers and a decision.

Hello - I have a 450gal tub that is 2 months old and I have a constant recurring issue. I filled the tub, added sodium bromide and shocked with MPS...I also have a bromine floater that is in the tub that I have set to "all the way open". I find it impossible to maintain a bromine readout from day to day. If I add dichlor I get a nice readout, but within 18 hours the readout goes to 0. Last night, I shocked w/MPS to try and reactivate the bromine. I will run a test strip tonight to see if there is anything, but the only thing I noticed this morning is that it made my water cloudy... Please help! UPDATE: Last night I was actually able to get a readout of bromine in my spa, which means something is finally working. The next question I have would be how do I maintain this level of bromine? Just keep shocking with MPS weekly, or is something else required more than that?

posted on the wrong forum - please delete.

Hello! Long time forum lurker here who, up until now, has been able to solve problems myself due to this forum. I'm having an odd occurrence with my spa and hoping someone here can enlighten me. We have a one year old spa w/ozonator, and have been successfully using the dichlor/bleach method with great results. However, the combined chlorine has been creeping up lately, and I thought I'd add some MPS to try to resolve that issue. I added a shock dose of MPS closely followed with a chlorine shock, and within 24 hours, the spa started to have a sour/moldy smell that has lasted for the past 3 days. We haven't used it. It smells like laundry that has been left sitting wet in the machine on a hot day. It makes your skin smell until it dries. Everything else checks out. The water is clear, the filter is clean. The spa has been regularly shocked and drained and cleaned since we bought it, with no evidence of any mold or other contamination, ever, aside from the current issue. pH 7.6, total hardness 250, total chlorine 8-ish (between 5 and 10 on the test strip), free chlorine 5, TA 120, CYA 30. I find it really suspect that this started right after adding the MPS. Does anyone know what is going on?

Hoping experienced hot tub people with salt water systems can help... We have a large salt water chlorine generating swimming pool. After a year of medical evaluation, we discovered our son has an allergic reaction to MPS. He breaks out in an itchy severe rash all over his body (no issue with Cl or Br). We have since stopped using MPS. However, with the salt water system, it regenerates and does not dissipate. As this is a large in-ground pool, we cannot safely drain the entire pool due to structural risk of the walls (1/3 of the water must remain). We have drained the hot tub and refilled without Oxone, and that is now fine. Is there any reagent to MPS/Oxone that can be purchased to completely neutralize it for the swimming pool? Some people mentioned using sodium or potassium hydroxide to neutralize the sulfates? Note: We are also using muriatic acid for pH down instead of the sodium bisulfate. Thank you so much for your time and help to mitigate this terrible allergic reaction.

We have a large salt water chlorine generating swimming pool. After a year of medical evaluation, we discovered our son has an allergic reaction to MPS (Dupont's Oxone). He breaks out in an itchy severe rash all over his body (no issue with Cl or Br). We have since stopped using Oxone. However, with the salt water system, it regenerates and does not dissipate. As this is a large in-ground pool, we cannot safely drain the entire pool due to structural risk of the walls (1/3 of the water must remain). We have drained the hot tub and refilled without Oxone, and that is now fine. Is there any reagent to MPS/Oxone that can be purchased to completely neutralize it for the swimming pool? Some people mentioned using sodium or potassium hydroxide to neutralize the sulfates? Note: We are also using muriatic acid for pH down instead of the sodium bisulfate. Thank you so much for your time and help to mitigate this terrible allergic reaction.

I don't know if this is possible, but is there a way of measuring the MPS just by measuring the combined chlorine? I know the MPS show up as CC in a DPD test. I'm using mainly MPS in my hot tup right now and doing a chlorine chock every 14 days, so far so good. I've ordered the Lamotte ColorQ 7 (liquids) to keep track of the water. If it's possible, what ppm is recommended to have in a hot tub and is there some kind of convert table from CC to MPS?

I've had a 450 gallon spa for about a year. Initially I had a ton of issues getting the water balanced, so I did the sanitization routine with Ahhhh Some and the spa has been working great. I also switched from the Spa Frog system to a Bromine floater. Currently my spa seems to be well balanced. Ph at 7.6 or 7.7 typically. Alkalinity is 120. CH 180. Bromine sits between 3 and 4ish depending on the day and when I test. I use the ColorQ system for water testing (no test strips here SON!). When I first open the cover to use the spa there is a sanitizer smell and a slight smell on my skin after use. The water is perfectly clear and the chemistry seems well balanced. Not sure whether the smell is over sanitizer or something else. I've been throwing MPS in the spa after each use - 2-3 tablespoons (1/2 to 3/4 of a dixie cup). I use the spa 3 to 4 times a week. So should I be dosing it after each use? What's the smell? THANKS!!!

My dermatologist confirmed my skin allergy to MPS. I was the only one in my family to experience the large red bumps on arms and legs. The tub (400 gal.) was drained - filter cleaned with Aqua-EZ (great product - removes iron and clarifies water instantly!) - and tub then refilled using Dichlor only and new mineral cartridge. It worked - no more bumps. Here's the issue - my son put in 2 tbls of the old shock cleaner with MPS the other night after he left (yes, I should have thrown it away). Took a tub last night - the bumps reappeared this morning - I asked him what he added and he confirmed it was the older bottle of shock. So - my question is - will just a few tbls. of MPS wear out if I leave it for a few days? If I add more dichlor will that burn it off? Or - do I need to drain and refill tub again? Thx in advance!

Currently own (for the past 2 months) a 2012 Sundance 880 Optima with 24hr circulation pump, Clearray UV light, 2 part filtration system (inside / outside microclean filtration, with floating skimmer). Sanitation system is the 4 month Sunpurity silver ion cartridge / MPS / shock / UV light. TRUE OR FALSE (provide comments too! ): 1) Dealer recommends NOT running the jet pumps after adding shock / MPS / chemical as the circ pump is fine. However, Sundance manual says to run jet pumps for 15 - 20 minutes afterwards. 2) Dealer recommends keeping the spa cover open for 40 minutes after adding chlorine shock to protect the cover. 3) Dealer reommends keeping the spa cover open for 40 minutes after adding MPS Chlorine-Free Oxidizer to protect the cover. 4) Nature2 cartridges can replace the Sunpurity cartridges. 5) Hot tubs / spas are awesome!!! 6) My current sanitation system is correct for silver ion cartridges (per deal recommendations): Add MPS after each use, add shock about once a week. Use test strips before each use, add chemical if required after each use. Thanks!

Anyone out there use Leisure time spa chems? I can order 5lbs on amazon for 43$ shipped so not much cheaper than buying the 2.lb bottles but saves me a 30 mile drive each way. Anyone experience any undesired water balance effects with this product? Thought I'd check before I pulled the trigger. Thanks. All my other chems are Spaguard brand but I haven't found an MPS by them.