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  1. I have an early 2000s Hot Springs prodigy which just recently developed a leak in the lens and in the wire connector for the rear control panel. The symptom is the heater will shut off with the two flashing lights. I unplugged the rear panel control panel wire from the main board and that solves that problem for now. But the lens leak still seems to be causing the heater some trouble. My question is why does the leak cause the heater to malfunction? Is there some sensor that detects water? is there someway I can work around replacing the lens until after winter? For example, another wire, I can unplug or something like that. I would like to just get my tub running so it won't freeze and crack in the cold winter months. That way I can address the problem during the summer. thank you
  2. I have a 2004 hot springs grandee and it was at the house when we moved in, so I dont know much about it. We filled it and the green ready light is flashing. I replace the thermoser sensor and the high limit sensor. I also had to bypass the pressure switch to get the red power light to stop blinking. will be installing an online switch if I can get the rest working. After all the sensors have been changed green light is still flashing. Circulation pump looks newer and has good flow. Now the pumps get hot and turn off but do not trip the breaker??? I checked for air lock in pumps and looks ok. Could both jet pumps be bad?
  3. I have a 2012 vanguard spa that sat for 4 years in storage. We set up and filled the spa as recommended through the filter housing. I have tried wiring the high limit switch together at the board. Does not work. Circ pump is flowing and waterfall is running water and ozone is coming from bottom of spa. Tested heater and it reads out at 10 ohms. Also replaced the two sensors as I felt that was a inexpensive maintenance type item. All pumps work with no leaks but the ready light flashes all the time and if I leave high limit wired together the red light flashes all the time and the heater never turns on. When I run the jets the heater light will stay on solid red until I shut the jets off. But still no heat. I do have a new heater that I am prepared to install but the old one seems to be tearing out ok. Also the new heater does not have a high limit wire on the end as the original one does. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks, dennis b Mooney
  4. Our Prodigy H came with the house. I think it’s a 2011. Serial starts with H4N. It’s a 110v. It blew the breaker in the electrical control box. After reset, filter clean etc., jets don’t run when using Topside controls. Some of the buttons don’t operate. What part do I order to replace top controller? Eagle? Do I need any other part? See video. IMG_6677.MOV Jets will run if I bypass and give power so basically not getting power for some reason. Service tech said it was heater relay board and replaced. Also said was bad ozone sensor and disconnected. No change. Lost confidence in tech. I don’t have before pics and I don’t know what the heater relay looked like before. Heater 2 pin power jumpers were in positions 3/4 and 5/6 when diagram shows 5/6 and 6/7. Moved. No Change. Opened Topside control and looks like board got wet and is damaged. See pictures. Other symptoms Control Unplugged light is on Red. Bus Status light on Green. The wire to the No fault heater is cut and the wire from the pressure switch plug on board is spliced and is connected to the wire that goes to the flow switch.?? To determine what parts to buy, this is what I have. The main control box cover is a Q2020. The control board and the new heater relay are Item # 76082 Orca Control Box now obsolete. Main motherboard is definitely item # 78039 because the main top controls and auxiliary control plugs are phone jack connectors. New heater relay board is blue like an original item #76071 but when I look online that is obsolete and it says to use Item #77118. What top control replacement do I order? Is the heater relay board the right one or should it be #77118? If new heater relay is ok, is everything wired correctly on board and heater relay?
  5. I am looking for the documentation that details the main control board jumpers J1 to J12 on the Hot Springs IQ2020 motherboard. What I want to know is what each jumper controls. Anyone have such doc they could share? Thanks Much Grumpy
  6. Reddit sent me here searching for a user castletonia to help me with my hot tub. It came with the house I bought and the top control screen doesn’t work, from my research it seems that the part is discontinued and I need a new control screen and computer board for it to work, but I’m not sure I have the correct parts. Can anyone confirm these will work on my hot tub? I’m attaching pictures. Thank you!
  7. I have Tiger River hot tub- I am guessing it is an 02 or 03 model. The tub powers up then after a couple of hours the red Power light starts blinking and it stops heating. I reset the breakers and it works for a while and then the same thing happens. The more often that I do this the shorter the duration between the resetting of the breakers and the “Blinking of the Power light”. Maybe because the water is getting warmer in the tub? The tub never gets to the set temperature (maybe 10 degrees shy of it). I tested the thermistors- they were still good I have replaced both thermistors – same results I force purged the tub with a garden hose through the gray standpipe- same results I replaced the circ pump (The new one is considerably stronger) – same results I double checked that I didn’t have an air leek or air bubbles in the circ pump. The tub has a stereo- I have removed it and the its ac/dc convertor. I have removed the filters and tested it – same results If anyone has any advice on the next steps to diagnose this problem it would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Hello all -- I recently re-filled my Hot Springs spa after it being unused for a while. Initially, everything seemed fine. I filled it with my hose and there was a little water near the drain, but I frankly thought that was just water that had spilled. But once I turned the jets on, water immediately started leaking out of the drain area. I figured I had not put the drain cover on correctly, so I tried tightening it. No change. I even tried replacing the cover with another valve, and it is still leaking. From what I can tell, the water is coming out from *around* the drain pipe and not actually leaking from the drain pipe. In fact, if I press down a little on the drain, the water either slows a little or goes faster. Any ideas what might be happening and how to fix? And in the meantime, I'm thinking about trying to cover the up the drain from inside the tub to stop the water leaking out. Any concerns with doing that? Any suggestions for how to do it? I am not a particular hand person, but given that we're all locked down, I'd appreciate any thoughts on things I should try! Many thanks! Abe
  9. Hello! We just bought a new home that came with a 2015 Hot Springs Limelight Flair tub. I have a couple issues I’m hoping someone can help me with. After finally figuring out how to turn on the water feature, we noticed that it appears to be ‘squished’ in the centre, only allowing water to pass through the edges - so instead of a smooth waterfall, it comes out like a V. Is there any way to fix this or would the ‘feature’ need to be replaced? Secondly, we noticed that quite a few lights are out - a few in bunches in the same area - and some of the plastic caps over the lights are cracked, one is completely off and appearing like it’s shorting out the light (assuming water is getting at it). Are swapping out bulbs and the caps an easy thing to do on my own? It’s currently winter here so would likely wait until the spring to change them and caulk them as it’s very cold out. Thanks in advance.
  10. My parents had an old Hot Springs brand Sovereign model hot tub on their patio that they wanted me to move to make room for a storm shelter. They had used it until about 5 years ago. I thought, since I'm moving it, I'll just take it to my house. It works somewhat but I don't know how to use it I guess. I think it's a 1991 model and I can't find much info about it. Even the lady at the local store isn't sure. The water gets hot but it seems to only heat if the jets are running sometimes. Then sometimes I won't run them and thenwarer is boiling hot. Sometimes I don't run them and it's ice cold. There is a thermocouple looking wire hanging loose in there. I'm not sure where to put it and I don't know how to use the controls evidently. It'll be hot as hades and I'll turn the thermostat to a lower number and 2 days later the water is still hot as hades. I can hear it hum when I plug it in and don't have jets going. Is there a place to turn on the heater only? How does it heat the water if the water isn't circulating? What do I do with that wire that I assume is some kind of thermometer? My parents really can't remember how it worked. It just did, they say. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  11. Just wanted to share my experience since I could not find another one out there like it. My 2009 Hot Springs Vanguard spa developed a slow leak after a recent move. The leak was observed as a drip from the corner of my spa. After a lot of googling I decided to remove my panels and dig through the foam in the corner to see if I could find the source of the leak. The foam was soaking wet. I started at the bottom and worked my up toward the moto massage housing. I thought for sure it was going to be a leaky manifold at the base of the moto massage housing but to my surprise the water was coming down from above it. I dug out the foam so that I could get on top of the moto massage housing and found the culprit. It was an LED fixture. Hot Springs basically bored a hole in the housing, placed a plastic nut on the outside of the housing that was held in place by some epoxy. From the inside of the spa within the moto massage housing, they insert a threaded bolt which doubles as a LED light chamber and screw it through the hole in the housing and into the nut that was previously described. The bolt also makes use of an o-ring to prevent leaking. The problem, o-rings eventually fail and yes, surprise surprise, I'm sure my chemical balance has at times not been perfect over the past 11+ years. While I'm sure I can get o-rings from somewhere that would work, I chose to just order the led kit that is used with the pillows as the units appear identical to what they used in the moto jet housing. I have 6 other led devices like this in my tub and I'm sure they will all eventually fail. The good news is that you may not have to dig through your foam. You may be able to repair from inside your tub. I'm thinking you simply need to unscrew the plastic led from inside the tub, replace the o-ring and screw it back in. The only concern I have is the LED. When you pull out the threaded plastic bolt you may cause the LED light to fall out and may be unable to get it back it since you want have access to the area. You may be able to partially unscrew it (i.e. a couple turns), and then slip the o-ring over the top and then screw it back in. I'm going to try this on my next one and will provide an update. Worse case, you lose the LED light in your moto massage area! Better than a leak, and better than digging through all your foam!! Another tip, lower your water level below the led so that you don't introduce a bunch of water unnecessarily to your foam. I also posted a video on Youtube that shows a little more:
  12. So, I got my new Envoy this week. All hooked up. Questions now are: What is the benefit of adding a Silver Ion Cartridge? It is a salt system tub. Can you run an ozonator and the salt system at the same time? Would that even be needed?
  13. Bought a Hot Springs Classic new in 1992. Only repair was to replace the circulating pump once. That is until 5 years ago when I opened it up in the spring (after winterizing) and found a 24" long crack in the shell from the bottom up to one of the pockets for the back massagers. Got the repair kit from Watkins, tipped it up on it's side and dug out the foam in the cracked area and proceeded to epoxy/fiberglass the exterior of the crack and filled the crack from the interior with the MEK melted pellets. Drilled a small hole at the end of the crack. It has always leaked since the repair, about an inch a week. It is on a deck raised eight feet, so I always know if it is leaking. Filled it again this spring and now it was almost gushing water, about 8 inches in a day. Did some careful measurements with a caliper and it slowed down, finally was dropping at the rate of 2.5" per day. Same rate with the pump on as with it off, so it was not in the plumbing. Way too much to make it usable. So I bit the bullet and tipped it up again and dug out the foam I has replaced after the first repair. A small area of my repair has delaminated near the back massager pocket where the bottom takes some sharp angles. Guessing a tiny leak froze during the winter and pushed the fiberglass layers of the repair apart. The surprise? Carpenter ants has burrowed into the foam, making a nest and munching on small areas of the wood base that had not gotten quite enough preservative. I took a wire wheel cup on my angle grinder to clear the foam and loose fiberglass from the edges of the repair. This time I am going to fill the sharp angles with epoxy repair putty before setting another layer (or two) of fiberglass in a thick layer of epoxy. It is a pain working around the wood base slats, but this time I am making sure there is no foam left near the edges and I end up with fully soaked layers of fiberglass. And this time i am not re-foaming the repair area. Any words of wisdom before I start the repair?
  14. This looks like a lovely forum. Recently found my Hot Springs Jetsetter Spa dead with a burn mark on the back of the IQ2020 heater relay board. After a conversation with Watkins I purchased a Whole new IQ2020 controller, only to find that I would need to replace the upper controller head and do some other things to make it work. Yuck. Bottom line - sending it back (even though it seemed like a bargain @ $350 for the entire controller). Now I’m wondering - is the main controller board really bad? Saw some discoloration on the main board where the hot wire comes in so assumed it was bad. Is there a way to check the main board to check it’s basic functionality, so I don’t fry the future new heater relay board or anything else?
  15. I’ve got a 2004 Hot Springs Jetsetter that has been relatively trouble free until recently. Last month, a few days after water changeout, the level had dropped about 9 inches and I saw water leaking from below the spa in the back right corner in the vicinity of the motomassage. There was no water in the equipment compartment, so I scheduled a visit from a Hot Springs tech thinking it might be a quick diagnostic/ fix. No such luck. He came out, told me I had a leak and would have to drain the spa, move it away from the house, refill it, reheat it, and have him return. I drained, moved, and refilled the spa. I didn’t replug it since I was heading out of town for a week. When I returned, I replugged it, but did not check the water level. I’m thinking this may have been my first critical mistake. Or not. Did low water cause what happened next? The next day I glanced out to see if the spa had gotten to temp. There were no lights on the Control Panel. I checked the GFCI and it had tripped and would not reset. Checked the breaker in the house and it had tripped. Reset that and then reset the GFCI. The light on the GFCI glowed red so I assumed all was well. But there was no power getting to the spa from the 125v cord, so assumed the GFCI was toast. I replaced the GFCI, tested and confirmed it worked properly. There now is power getting to the main bus on the heater board in the equipment bay, but still no display on the Control Panel. No power from the main bus to the main board either. So I assume that the heater board & possibly Control Panel are toast. But I still have the leak to trace. I’ve pulled off most of the back boards and a few of the side boards. Found some soggy foam and kept digging but all led to dry foam. I can see water pooling in the back corner, but have not yet been able to follow it to the source. Tomorrow I will add some food coloring and be back to digging. The water is still leaking, however the level is dropping verrrrry slowly now- maybe 1 inch over the past 10 days. I’m assuming that’s because the circ pump is no longer working. But maybe not. If the food coloring doesn;t help to find the source, I'll likely drain and try to raise the tub so I can attack it from underneath. My plan is to keep trying to find the leak(s) and get that repaired first. Assuming that’s successful, the next steps are a bit of a mystery. So here are my questions: 1. Any hints on how to better track down a leak or is it just tedious trial and error? 2. Is there a logical way to test the Heater & Main Boards to confirm either is fried or not? 3. Is there a way to test the Control panel to determine if it needs to be replaced? 4. Are there things to check prior to replacing either Board &/ or Panel to ensure they don’t self-destruct again? i.e. what might have caused one or both to fry? 5. Can I bypass the board and energize the circulation pump to get some pressure into the system to help track down the leak(s) 6. Is there a better way to try to salvage this tub than what has been outlined above? It's been a great tub and I'd replace it with the same if we weren't planning to move in the next 2-3 years. Anyone want to weigh in with some suggestions and tell me I'm wasting my time?
  16. When purchasing a new cover, is the local dealer my only option for original hot springs cover?Will I sacrifice quality by going to an online dealer?
  17. Hello all! I didn't get any responses on my last post so am trying again as I have now troubleshooted a bit further. I have a mid-2000s model Hot Springs Vanguard. Everything is working except I cannot get the heat to rise above 98 degrees, even when set to 104. Here is what has been tried thus far: New circulation pump New GFCI 20 amp breaker installed New heater - Note: I had to jump the pressure switch on the board because the new heater does not have the external cord that runs to the circ board Disconnected Ozonator from Circ board (Line was cut prior to me purchasing the house with said hot tub) No visible damage to circ board - removed and checked for the infamous burns on the back Recently re-wired to match the manual (IE: heater is hooked to the 30amp and pumps hooked to the 20 amp) I mention this because previously, they were reversed. The hot tub would get to temp fine then but would constantly flip the breaker. Once I determined it was wired backwards I switched everything according to the manual. I have tried flipping both the 20 and 30amp breakers on at the same time as well as turning the 20 on first and then the 30 (per the manual). Heat time is much slower now (previously would come to temp from ice cold to 104 in about 8 hours); Now it takes around 24 hours but still will not go past 98 degrees. Any thoughts? ideas? Note that the pressure switch jump worked fine when the wiring was reversed so I am not sure if this is related to this issue or not. I am rural and getting someone out to service is next to impossible! Thank you.
  18. I have a 19 year old Hot Springs Jetsetter, and LOVE the powerful jets. Does the Freeflow Mini, or any other small spa have jets as powerful as my Jetsetter?
  19. Hi everyone! After reading what seems like EVERY single blog/forum/post on the internet and getting nowhere I have finally accepted my defeat and have come here to beg for your help! I bought a house that came with a 2005 Hot Springs Vanguard spa. Everything works EXCEPT the heat. Here is what I know/have tried: You can feel hot water coming out of the drain when the power is first turned on. This lasts about 30 minutes give or take, then back to cold No error codes on display and heat light is on Circuit board is not burnt up (removed everything and checked back of board as well) Circ pump works, jets work, lights work, ozone works. Bubbles are strong from drain Water feature works but it needs to be turned off when power is first turned on to hot tub otherwise I get the blinking red and green lights. Once tub has been on a few minutes then the water feature can be turned on and there are no blinking lights and water feature works I have tried with and without brand new filters installed. I ran a spa cleaner through the pipes and drained and refilled to ensure any YUCK was removed Initially I did replace the end cap on the end of the No-Fault heater because you could see it was cracked and leaking at the end of the heater. Note heat did the same thing before and after this replacement part was installed Help! Please! I live in a rural area and can not get anybody to come out and service/ check so any help you can offer would be much appreciated. Otherwise I'm strongly considering junking this thing! Thanks in Advance! 😁
  20. Hi, I have a 2001 Hot Springs Vanguard. Over the last couple of years I have managed to find and fix a couple of leaks. Now it has another very big/fast leak. I initially guessed that it was likely the infamous bleed nipple. But the leak appears to stop with a fair amount of water still in the moto massage "buckets." The leak appears to stop with the water below the lowest hydromassage jet on the right side. (See video link below.) I know this doesn't necessarily mean anything, but the water also appears to come out from under the hot tub most heavily under that spot. But I dug out the foam to the back of that fitting and it doesn't seem to be leaking there. Although that area is such a tangle of pipes it's hard to get the fitting fully exposed. The foam is very hard around there. (See image) Any ideas for common culprits? Thank you! Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GxjZi0kkFlE
  21. Hello, I have a 2012 Hot Springs Jet Setter Model JJ SN JJ1P2197 that has a safety protection mode on. The water level is okay. The filters are okay. I have removed the stand pipe filter and mineral tablet out of it. It originally had a bad IQ2020 main board. The old part number was a Watkins PN 1315101. I ordered a new control board for it (watkins 76998). The circulation pump kicked on at first flipping the breaker then stopped after a few seconds. The controller panel only works with some functions. No jet pumps or circulation pump. No heater. I took a new plunger to the water return to get any air locks out. There is a red light on the board that has control unplugged beside the light that is red. The lim light is on solid with a green glow. The BUS status light is blinking green about every 5-7 seconds. Any help would be appreciated.
  22. I have a 2006 Watkins’s vanguard vv2h2936. I just got it hooked up and can only get jet 1 to come on. If I plug the leads from jet 2 into the terminals for jet 1 jet 2 will work. I’m not getting any voltage to the leads on jet two. There is also no jet display on the control head coming on like it does when I turn on jet one. Also I have no voltage to the heater. Heater ohms out at about 17. Incoming voltage is correct and landed correctly. Control jumpers are on jp1, jp8,jp9. Could the problem be in the control head? I pulled it out and looked it over and the only thing I seen was the wires for the control light was damaged but nothing else. The IQ2020 board doesn’t appear to be damaged. Any trouble shooting tips would be great!
  23. Firstly, Thank you to this forum for helping me diagnose some of the problems in the hot tub that came with our recent house purchase. I was able to find the 3 parts I needed to replaced cracked fittings, etc. and get our hot tub up and running! Next issue! So we have a 2008 (pretty sure, at work...can't verify via Serial) Hot Springs Limelight Flair hot tub. The audio system we have is an Aquatic AV AQ-DM-2BX (http://pdf.nauticexpo.com/pdf/aquatic-av/aq-dm-2bx/29159-60043.html) that accepts the old-school style 30-pin iPod style connectors. So in the process of getting it (the hot tub up and running) I tried using the audio system but it doesn't work. It powers on fine, iPod connects, but no sound. I take that front panel off and see there's a wiring harness connected, but there's the red/white RCA cables that are not hooked up to anything. I'm ASSUMING this is my problem, but I have no clue where these should be connected. I can't find any sort of wiring diagram online to show me. is this something that might be located inside the IQ panel? Anyone have any ideas? Thanks again for all of your help!
  24. I have a 2004 Tiger River Bengal. My Smart Jet Diverter Valve was leaking from top and I had water dripping from large white pipes under tub shell behind control panel. I replaced diverter valve and o-rings. Works great. Problem now is that water is still dripping from large white pipes under tub shell when the diverter valve is in 9 o'clock and 12 o'clock positions and pump is running. Tub does not leak unless pumps are running. The water drips down from pipes in pump compartment as well as drips out of right corner of exterior casing(tub is on concrete slab with slight pitch to right). The large white pipes coming from manifold seem very durable. Could they develop a leak? Any ideas appreciated.
  25. How does one remove the Jet Face (#2 in diagram)???? Directions say… Remove the jet by grasping the jet faceplate and pulling it away from the spa shell. With jet in hand, two o-rings should be on the rear portion of the faceplate. If either o-ring is not present, inspect the inside of the front wallfitting and remove the missing o-ring. To reinstall the jet, reverse steps 1 to 3.Important: Make sure that the o-rings are properly seated. It rotates cw and ccw and comes to a dead stop, but it won't pull out. I tried prying it off with a plastic panel remover with no luck. I have a leak there and need to remove the body to make a clean repair. I also want to change-out all the o-rings in this 20 yr old tub. 1998 Hot Spring/Tiger River Bengal® Model M
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