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Found 10 results

  1. So I used Ahhsome for the first time on newer spa (December 2020, first drain). Basically I left it open too long one day during high pollen season and the sun melted the chlorine and got the algae going, I was gone the entire next day and opened the tub up around noon the following day to find it very cloudy with a nice set of algae growing. I shocked it for a few days and then just ran ahhsome today for 30 minutes, but I only ran it at 2ppm chlorine because I was planning drain it into the yard since I can't drain to the street or house drain. It cleaned it well, I wish I read this forum first...of course I was busy working and left it drain unattended, now I'm left with the equivalent of a full hotel of teenage kids wiping their boogers on it all night. Using 5% vinegar and a rag is going to be way too much elbow grease and dawn dish soap in warm water is barely better. Should I just refill the tub and run it with a half dose of ahhsome with ~5ppm chlorine, then wipe it down as I drain it or is there a better solution, I did one corner at the top and have no intention of scrubbing the entire tub like that. Thanks, T
  2. We have had a small (~800L) spa for around a month. Ive begun using the dichlor-then-bleach method today after half-draining the spa to reduce the CYA to close to recommended levels. Questions: 1) How often? The providers said drain every 3 months, but apparently that's too long for a small spa. The Taylor site recommends the formula: Size in Litres / (10 x # of bathers daily) which comes to just 40 days for us. I think we should be able to go longer than that, because we wash with soap first and we are pretty small people. What guidelines do other follow? I'm thinking 2 months. Is there a more scientific way to say when to drain (provided of course the water looks fine and sanitised correctly each day)? Perhaps a total dissolved solids measurement? 2) Draining onto garden? Im using the recommended 50 ppm borates, and I understand that a little is good for plants, but that is going to be a lot of borates over time in the soil. What do others do with the drained water?
  3. Hello, I am a new homeowner. My home came with a working Caldera Vacanza hot tub, however I am unable to find the drain valve. I opened the side hole (see pictures) but there is nothing there. The only loose hose that I see is the one highlighted in the picture. Can someone let me know what I am missing? Thanks
  4. I am wanting to drain my CleverSpa Waikiki but it didn’t come with an attachment to connect to my garden hose. If I can’t connect it to a hose the water would run down the side of my house causing a flood of 1100 litres of water. I’ve tried contacting B&Q and CleverSpa and received no help. I’ve googled attachments and found nothing compatible. Has anyone ran into this issue? This hot tub model is new so I bet I’m the first one needing to drain this tub so far so I’m probably screwed Thinking I’ll empty it with a bucket but hoping maybe someone on here might have a suggestion.
  5. I have a 6 month old Artesian Nevis spa which appears to have ozone and UV sanitizers installed since the lights for those are illuminated on the panel and there are little bubbles coming out from the footwell like the service tech at the dealer said there would be. I also have a Microsilk system which produces the tiny oxygen bubbles. When I got it, we filled according to instructions using a dichlor system. No issues and kept the chlorine pretty minimal, adding more after each use, since we always showered first and went in au natural. I had to go out of town for 3 months, so turned the heat down to 50 (although ambient temp was high enough to probably keep it at 65 at least) and switched to bromine floater with the nature 2 stick, which seemed to keep things nice the whole time. Drained and cleaned it, soaked the filters (which still looked brand new) in vinegar and water overnight, refilled and decided to try the Spa Frog system. I used the start up packet which came with the spa frog kit (PH and Alk and hardness all good) and dialed the bromine to where it was suggested. The next day, no bromine reading, so I figured I would stick the floater with bromine tabs in the tub to help it out since I had read about others needing to do this. Left it for a couple of hours with the floater open about an inch and took a soak. I don't remember testing the water before I got in, so i'm guessing I didn't! After soaking for 20 minutes (my max time) I did my usual routine of emptying my bladder and showering. Two things happened. My eyes burned like crazy in the shower once water hit them. I thought maybe I had gotten shampoo in them, but this was really painful and took ages to wash out with water and soothing eye drops. A few minutes later, my whole urinary tract was irritated and painful, radiating to my lower back. Saw the doctor since I was worried about a possible UTI, but nope. Just irritation and inflammation. So I am wondering what it is that triggered this. I don't seem to have a bacteria problem since the bromine levels seem to stay up well over two days without the floater in the tub and no use. I had used a bromine floater system in my last hot tub with no problems. Could it have been the start up packet chemicals that came with the Spa Frog? I didn't add any MPS until after I had gotten in that first time, so that wasn't it. Do people have a reaction to the silver in the frog system sometimes? I wear silver jewelry with no problems. Or was it likely that the bromine level was just too high after two hours of the floater plus the frog? I did leave the floaters in the tub with me for about 10 minutes, since they stayed in their own corner, but I know i should have probably taken them out. I was thinking about flushing, draining and refilling the tub and switching back to dichlor, but thought I would get some feedback before going through all that in case it's just chemicals that needed to burn off a bit. Thoughts?? Thanks! I am dying to get back in the spa but afraid to until I have some answers and a decision.
  6. I found the suction from the main drain to be very low. Do I need a plumber? Thank you.
  7. Help! The pool and hot tub floor drains do not drain any water. Bought a home with a pool and hot tub not in service. The Hot tub water level is above the level of the pool. The hot tub has a spillway into the pool. There are 3 pumps laying in a pile of misc valves and cut off lines, etc. There is also a sand filter and a propane pool heater. I pumped out all of the bad water and have now identified 7 out of 8 of the lines. My biggest question is why wouldn't the pool drain by gravity with all of the lines cut off? I can blow air into the backwash line or drain line and air bubble up through it into the pool bottom, same thing with the hot tub, but zero water will drain out. I figured there is a check valve in the hot tub floor drain to keep the water from draining into the pool if the pool and hot tub utilized the same drain line. The previous owner said that the the 3 pumps were for 1. Pool Circulation, 2. bubbles for the hot tube, 3. small fountain features which spill into the pool. There are two holes in the main drain in the floor of the pool. One is closed with a threaded plug. The other is open. There is one skimmer, also with two holes and one plugged with a threaded plug. I tried taking out the plugs and that didn;t allow the water to drain either. But I can blow air or water back up into both into the pool or hot tub but not out?? What is in the bottom are drains, right? You wouldn't cirulate water into the pool from below?
  8. Hi! New to the forum and new to owning a pool. We just bought a house with an in-ground gunite pool. It was built in 2008/9, so it's only a few years old. I am trying to understand and figure out the plumbing. My main question is where exactly is the return and is this setup using more than one? It's currently winterized and only half full, so I can't run the pump to find out, but I figure most of you will be able to instantly recognize the set-up. Below is a picture I found of the pool when it was first built, showing all of the plumbing coming in/out of the pool, and below it a picture of the pump/filtration/sanitation setup. I labeled it according to the labels on the valves. My questions: 1. Is the port on the side for attaching the cleaning unit only, or is it a return as well? 2. Which of the drains on the bottom are actually drains, and which, if any, are returns? Thank you!
  9. I have a 30+ year old gunite pool that was recently renovated and replastered. This year I opened it up to find over 80% of the water was gone. A few dye test leak detections later it appears that the main drain is leaking out right around where the pipe meets the drain (it's an old all-gunite main drain, there is no PVC drain box). The hydrostatic valve I have is just an old hockey puck heavy plastic disk around an o-ring right near the drain but seperate (this was the initial suspect for my leak, but turned out to be ok...). The main drain line was pressure tested and it holds pressure just fine at 10 psi, so it looks like the drain line is good (thank God)! So I am thinking about replacing/updating the main drain itself and that means moving to a modern PVC type box and should hopefully stop the leak. Now my question. I noticed that the new PVC main drain boxes have built-in hydrostatic valves. Should I have the pool company "fill in" my old hockey puck style hydrostatic valve opening with cement and plaster, and use the new spring loaded one that comes in the PVC main drain box, or should I continue with the hockey puck style one? The water table is not very high where I live but I guess it was high enough to warrent a hydrostatic valve to begin with... I live in the northeast. I don't like the idea of "all it takes is a grain of sand, running the vacuum over it, etc." and the valve can get stuck open (my current hockey puck style), but I am not sure how reliable the new spring loaded ones are... so any advice is appreciated! Does anybody have experiece with both kinds of hydrostatic valves and/or have rennovated an old style main drain before?
  10. Hello, We moved into a home 3 years ago with a gunite Anthony & Sylvan pool that we are told is about 30 years old. I prefer to close the pool myself but I am perplexed about one aspect of blowing out the lines. I've already done everything including balancing chemicals, covering the pool, detaching the filter motor, moving the filter and motor to the shed, etc. The part I am not confident about is the main drain. The skimmer has two round holes - 1 inlet and 1 outlet. They are located on the sides of the skimmer and not on the bottom as I've seen in many youtube videos. We have a main drain in the deep end, a drain in the "jacuzzi" section (more like a little walled off bench), 2 returns to the main pool, and 2 returns to the jacuzzi. In the skimmer there is: 1. water coming into the skimmer from the skimming action 2. water going out the lower hole to the filter/pump 3. water coming IN the other hole It's the 3rd part that I don't understand. Water flows IN through this hole non-stop. The filter is off and removed. The water level is dropped 16 inches. The water level appears to be below the level of this inlet hole in the skimmer but the water keeps coming. I'm assuming there is a law of physics at work here but it seems to me that if the hole in the skimmer is above the water in the pool it should stop pushing the water through. I used an air compressor hooked up to the filter pump to blow out the rest of the lines and filter. In the end, I believe that I need the Mighty Vac to put it into this non-stop hole and blow until I see the bubbles come out of the main drain and then quickly push in the rubber stopper before the water rushes back up the line. There is no valve between the main drain and this inlet hole in the skimmer. Sorry for the long post but thanks for any suggestions. Jerry
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