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Found 3 results

  1. I may have caused a lroblem because i emptied the hot tub and forgot to turn odf the electric for a bit. However, problem now is when i turned the hot tub back on after filling it up completely it read 42 then 24 then pr. Then after a few minutes i thought it was running. That didnt last but a minute and then the code dr showed up and stayed. So as the book suggested i shut it off for well over 15 min. Turned it back on and the same thing again. Please help!!
  2. I own a 2008 model of Balboa circuit board, Sundance spa. Circulation pump is Marathon Electric, Model 5kCP49UN9096X. Capacitor Model number is 24DB500B370PA. I haven't had any problems with it until now, so it's been a great learning curve on figuring out how to fix it, but very interesting too. The initial symptom was that the spa would not budge from the "PR" priming code, and then would just go to a HH code, that things had heated up due to no circulation, and it shut itself off, with the spa going into EC (economy) mode. The circulation pump does not even start humming. Thinking it might be some air, I tried some things to try and move it through. I turned off the power for a while, then turned it on, and didn't wait for the PR cycle. Instead I turned on the air jets, moved it into ST (standard) mode, and the heater would then kick on. The circulation pump would start running, and it would work fine. So it's not air. Two things I noticed: 1-The jets run for about 5 minutes before turning off on their own. If I don't again turn them on manually, the spa gives a DY or DR signal after a while. The circulation pump just seems to quit pushing water through to the heater, as the filter stops working. However, the circulation pump is humming-- it's just not pushing water through (so I turn it all off). 2-I can keep turning it on manually every 3-4 minutes, and it works just fine. Filter works, pump works, heater works. Something is wrong though, so I've been taking the whole thing apart, and it all looks real good inside circuit board and heating unit. Pump moves, isn't clogged. So all of this points to the capacitor of the circulation pump. I have two pumps in this system. I am only looking at the one that's between the filter and the heat pump, not the air one on the other side. I thought I would be looking for a Start capacitor, but there is only one capacitor on this model, and it is a Run capacitor. I have two questions: Does the capacitor in this case serve as both a Run and Start? Given the Run works (because it still hums) I don't see how it's malfunctioning if that's the case (though it wouldn't be the first time something works beyond my comprehension). Or is there something on the circuit board (which looks great) that sends the start to the circulation pump that I am missing?I am going to order a new capacitor, as that's only $10. What sort of testing of the system can I do without water? Or, do I have to fill the spa all up before I get to see if swapping out a new capacitor is all that is needed? I'll update as I go along here, many thanks for any questions or help.
  3. A few year old (4-5?) legends series lsx masterspas tub. It is throwing a few different codes, SnS, dr, then dry (and sometimes Ohh) I suspect these are all related, maybe a non working circ. pump? I have tried to bleed the circ pump, I have checked the head of the circ pump for ease of propeller spinning and no clog. I have turned power off for 5 minutes after each attempt, still not good. (I also started with trying to run without filters, which are clean, just in case was a simple flow issue) Symptoms are that it is not heating. All three pumps seems to work, 2 at both of their speeds, and pump three at its only speed. It does, sometimes, rapidly raise the detected temp. up to the 118 shut off limit, but not always. Water temp is in the 65-75 range right now, as it's not been working for a few days, and it's getting into the 40's-50's at night up here in New England. Upon opening the front, there is a small pump maid by "Laing" that says circ. pump, and I don't seem to see this running. But truthfully, I don't remember if my circ. pump ever ran on its own? Never really paid attention. It does connect directly to the heater tube tho, so being that the dr and dry codes mean not enough water in the heater tube, am I correct in assuming that it is not pushing water into the heater and should start by replacing this? I'd hate to replace it, to find that it's a sensor or something, since the other two codes point to them as well. .? Please help, I am unemployed and can't afford serious costly service reps, but my wife has a bad back and needs this tub working. Thanks in advance, John
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