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Hello, I'm a fairly new hot-tub owner, and have found tons of valuable resources on this forum. Now that I have a slightly complicated question, this was quickly my first-choice to seek guidance My tub is 425 gallons (Alps Spas Q-90), last cleaned and refilled on 1/22/17 (sodium bromide + floater + MPS), consistently tested with a Taylor K-2106 kit, and set to 102F. Problem is my measurements today have me really scratching my head. TA dropped, and my CH plummeted. I've been busy so the tub's only seeing 1 or 2 bather-hours a week lately. Here's the last few measurement entries in my logbook: 2/11/17: pH=7.3, TA=120, CH=100, SI=-0.3, TB=0.5 2/12/17: pH=7.6, TA=130, CH=100, SI=0.1, TB=5 2/16/17: pH=7.6, TA=130, CH=90, SI=0.1, TB=4.5 2/20/17: pH=7.4, TA=90, CH=40, SI=-0.7, TB=5 Should I be worried that CH and TA tanked? I know bromine is acidic, which can lower pH and TA over time, but I've never seen my calcium dive like that. Also, I did add Leisure Time "pH Balance" during this last refill, which says "Note: due to the unique buffering capacity of Leisure Time pH Balance, it is not necessary to adjust the calcium hardness level in your spa". Was that a mistake? Could it be interfering somehow? Thanks in advance!
Hello all. Thanks for all the fantastic info on this forum. I've learned so much. I just bought my first spa, 500 gal Artesian Island and love it. Had it for 2 weeks and am researching chemistry and sanitation like a mad man to the point of obsession. The spa has an ozonater and the dealer set me up with an initial Spa Frog system. I've got 1 unused bromine cartridge and once it is done I'm dumping the Frog for bromine tabs in a floater (I've researche the 3 partbromine set up system). We have heavy use with teenage kids and friends and the low level of bromine was not keeping up with the bio load. With all the dichlor/bleach additions it makes no sense to spend the money on the Frog IMO. I initially was shocking with MPS and swithched to dichlor. After learning about the CYA I've swithched to bleach since the CYA levels should be more then sufficient now.. I have a good understanding of basic chem and the relationship between TA and pH as I also have a reef aquarium. I understand that borate helps buffer the pH by keeping the alk from dropping. I currently have the following parameters pH 8 TA 90 CH 250 I've got a Taylor K2106 ordered and have been using my neighbors pool test kit . Here are my concerns. 1-Pool calculator states TA should be 50-80. Manufacturer states TA should be 80-140. Is low TA going to affect the spa in any hardware way physically, or only the pH buffering? I have not added boric acid yet until I get the TA proper. 2- Adding boric acid should increase the TA without affecting pH, thereby increasing the buffering capacity, correct? If so I can see why lowering to 50 is ok as the borate will increase TA back up near manufacture's recommended. 3- In order to maintain a sufficient Calcium level TA needs to be at a certain level to be balanced (at least it does in my aquarium) and stop the precipitation of calcium carbonate. Given my Ca level do I need to worry about Ca falling out of solution if I drop the TA further? 4- Once TA is balanced how much borate do I add? I assume there is not much borate in city water. I will be using 20 Mule and muriatic acid. Thanks for any help and suggestions.