saunaguy

First thing I’d check is the water level if it’s even a little low, it can pull in air through the skimmer. Since you mentioned the filter cycle, try running it without the filter for a bit and see if the issue stops. Sometimes a dirty or misaligned filter can mess with circulation. Also, check for any loose fittings or tiny leaks near the pump or heater air can sneak in from there. If it keeps happening, might be worth looking at the check valve or the pump itself. Super annoying, but hopefully, it’s something simple!

If the pump sometimes hums but runs when switched to speed 2 first, the start capacitor could definitely be weak. Even if it looks fine visually, it might not be holding charge properly. You could test it with a multimeter set to capacitance mode or just replace it since they're pretty cheap. Since you already have the pump on the bench, checking the relay that feeds power to the motor is also a good idea it could be sticking or failing under load. As for disassembling the wet end, you might need a new seal kit depending on how it comes apart and whether the seals get damaged in the process.

The big issue here is that you have zero CYA (stabilizer), which means your chlorine is getting burned off super fast by the UV system and sunlight. Adding some stabilizer will help it last longer. Also, new spas sometimes have leftover gunk from manufacturing that can eat up chlorine, so a good shock might still be needed. For testing, wait about 15-30 minutes after adding chlorine with the jets running to get a better reading. And yeah, adding chlorine outside of filter cycles and just running the jets is a good move. Right now, you're not over-chlorinating you're just trying to get it to stay. Try adding CYA and see if that helps!

Sounds like the pump might be sticking or the startup torque isn’t quite enough to get it going consistently. Since manually turning it got it working before, it could be a sign that the bearings are wearing out or there’s some internal resistance (maybe debris you didn’t catch). The fact that it randomly stopped again and restarted without intervention makes me think the motor’s thermal overload is tripping and resetting. I’d check for any voltage drops at the pump connections to make sure it’s getting full power. Also, inspect the pump relay or contactor if it's failing, it could be intermittently cutting power. If it happens again, try listening for a hum before it fully starts; that could indicate the start winding isn’t kicking in properly. Since freezing temps are a concern, you might want to keep an eye on it and have a backup plan like a small heater near the equipment area just in case it stops again.

Looks like one of those handles with a hidden screw. Try prying off the center cap (if there is one) with a small flathead screwdriver there’s usually a screw underneath holding it in place. If there’s no cap, check the base or underside for a tiny set screw like an Allen wrench or small screwdriver should do the trick. If it’s just stuck, it might be threaded, so try twisting it off counterclockwise. A little WD-40 around the base can help if it won’t budge. Once you get it off, you’ll probably need to replace the cartridge or washer to stop the leak.

Missing suction covers are no joke. It’s crazy how fast something can get sucked in. That expandable hose getting twisted up in the impeller is a nightmare . I can only imagine the struggle of untangling that mess. This is a good reminder for anyone with a spa or hot tub double-check those covers before something worse happens

Sounds like the low-speed side of your pump might be dead, which is pretty common over time. Since it’s still making a humming noise, the issue could be a bad capacitor, a stuck relay, or a failed low-speed winding in the motor. You could try tapping the pump lightly with a rubber mallet while it’s supposed to be running on low sometimes that frees up a stuck component. If you’re comfortable with basic electrical work, you could check if the capacitor is bulging or replace it . However, if it’s a relay issue, that would be inside the control board and a bit trickier to fix. Also, if you suspect an airlock, you’ll probably need a wrench to loosen the fitting just be gentle to avoid cracking anything. If none of these solutions work, replacing the pump might be the easiest long-term fix.

That's frustrating. If you have a multimeter you can set it to continuity mode and check the strip's solder points to make sure there's no break in the circuit. This will identify if there's a short or break in the strip itself.