Tmorin

HI, I'm hoping to shed light on this for anyone who doesn't want to use chlorine or bromine. If you want to use hydrogen peroxide there is one method that works. As hydrogen peroxide is not an approved sanitizer (even though it has sanitizing properties) one way to use & benefit from it sanitizing & oxidizing (main function in spas) is to add UV. If your tub is still under warranty it is best to check first on any of this. I replaced my failed UV system (bulb replacement along would be over $125) with a UV system they use on home pond systems. Now this might scare you but the in my opinion the process & function is exactly the same. I found one with the same size inlet and outlet of my recirculation tubes. (this matched the outgoing Balboa Wavetec (over $500 to replace) inlets and outlets as well. The UV on the new one was 15 watt vs 7 watt. I just made sure my settings for circulation run times that result in nearly twice to volume of the tub being recirculated over two hour period. I then use mineral filter canister on my hose when filling. My initial does of 35% hydrogen peroxide is 2oz per 100 gallons. I also add (each time I add peroxide) 0.3 ounces of Bacquacil CDX which has bonding properties making the hydrogen peroxide last longer. Since implementing this system & getting my Alkalinity, ph, & hardness in line I have not had to adjust any of these in over 3 months. I just add 1oz of peroxide per week. (more if heavy usage) My water is always crystal clear with no smells or stain or scale build up. It is amazing how nice it is to not dealing with up & down PH & the smell that comes from Chlorine when light hits in & breaks it down (that is the smell we pick up) The UV unit cost me $169 & the replacement bulbs last 14 months & only $50. Plus I can easily see when the bulb needs replaced. I do want to mention that twice a year I pull the bulb & then clean the glass tube it slides into so UV performs properly. I also store the hydrogen peroxide in a frig after opening to significantly reduce the loss of effectiveness due to higher storage temperature. The UV light is the sanitizing agent & the peroxide does great for oxygenation. It also works its' sanitizing properties in dealing with things that come from bathers. Body oil, perfume, sweat, etc Just rinse your filters at least every two weeks (use the mineral canister on your hose) & clean them every two months. I find two sets of filters work best because one is already to use when its cleaning time for the others. I'm no longer spending tons of times dipping strips all the time & adding chemicals to raise & lower, the values or ever have to add water clarifier water or stain & scale. If I see any signs of cloudiness or foam I just shock it with another dose of Hydrogen Peroxide. I love this system because it works & is low maintenance. Just my two cents.

Hi, My cure for going away from bromine & chlorine is hydrogen peroxide. The only thing I had to add was a UV system. Since I did this months ago & my water is crystal clear & I haven't had to change it. My alkalinity & ph have varied only slightly & require infrequent adjustments. I add hydrogen peroxide 2oz per 100 gallons initially. I add an 1/2 ounce after each use unless its multiple people. Each weekend I add 2 ounces. If I notice any cloudiness at all I shock it with peroxide to bring it back to crystal clear The UV kills the germs & bacteria (The sanitizer) & the peroxide handle to stuff from bodies... lotions, etc. It is not a recognized sanitizer for spas even though it is one. It is an oxidizer which is its primary function for me with the secondary benefit of sanitation. I also bought a 1/2 gallon of Bacquacil CDX as it bonds with peroxide to make it last longer. only 0.3 oz per 200 gallons & I add it each time I put in 2 oz or more of hydrogen peroxide. I buy 35% hydrogen Peroxide food grade. I realize that UV systems are expensive. Mine had a 7 watt Balboa wavetec & the bulb replacement was too costly at over $120 per year & the unit was leaking. ($500+ to replace it) This might sound crazy but I could not understand why UV system designed for home ponds of well under 2000 gallons would not work. The principle is the same & they are far cheaper in cost & bulbs are less than 1/2 the cost (twice the wattage a well) They work off cycling X amount of GPH & want the volume of water (volume of the body of water )to be circulated within 1-1/2 to 2 hours. My tub is only 200 gallons & my circulation pump does 1.5 GPM which is under the 2 times threshold of the unit I bought. My spa does llow me to set circulation times. Plus I can look in & tell when the light needs replaced & clean the glass cylinder the bulb resides in twice a year. My tub has no warranty left so I didn't have to worry about violating it so if yours does...check first. I also find rinsing the filters out with hose (have a mineral canister filter attached to hose) once a week & cleaning them once a month works great. (I have two sets of two filters I swap when cleaning the ones that came out) I love not dealing with chlorine or bromine. It smells like fresh hot water. One last note, I use baking soda to adjust alkalinity instead of paying for it in a different form. It only has a small effect on PH. When alkalinity is right PH stays better balanced especially with the UV killing on the DNA & RNA level & peroxide doing its thing. Just my two cents on the topic.