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In Hot Water

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Everything posted by In Hot Water

  1. Short of disconnecting any remote controls (in the back), Replacing board and spa side is the next step.
  2. Thank You TheWizardOFSpa ! I'm a little pensive about whacking a replacement jet back into place out in the field on a brand new spa. I also can't help but wonder the life span of the grommets in adverse environments with uneducated owners using TriChlor from Walmart. CMP has screwed me before by discontinuing "Cross Fire Jets" . I hope they don't turn their back on the SQR series. Thanks again for your post, Not a whole lot of info from these manufacturers on this product. Rock On My Brother!
  3. OMG, I got the word S E X sensored in my post! I feel so special!!
  4. OK. Finally went out to the "SQR" job. American Spa AKA Cal Spas sent out the 200 series SQR jet, Gasket, and an unlabeled bag of lubricant. The lube was gelatinous, and watery. Much like dried up *** lube (Not that I know what that is). It absolutely sucked trying to shove the puppy into the grommet even with the prescribed lube. Had to pound it into place with a rubber mallet. At this point, I'm thinking Aladdin Magic Lube will not only work, but may be better. Heaven help us all when these things fail.......... That is all.
  5. If there was an option for a remote in the back, that facilitates being able to fish the wire for it.
  6. Spa purge won't cause a short, however the Heater may have wet the bed. We need more information on what you have, before we offer up minimally helpful suggestions. What is the brand, and model?
  7. The 24 hour circulating pump has failed. Now a days, we are lucky to get a year out of them (Them being Laing E-5). The red fuse is a "High Limit Switch" that kicked out because the heater is coming on without any water to cool it. That machine is 30 years old now, and you may need to think about replacing it. We expect about 20 years on a portable spa. In the meantime, make note of the voltage on the circ pump, and replace accordingly.
  8. Either there is something in the wetend, (Toy, Nature two plastic piece, Bypass valve, or unmentionables) or the diffuser is worn. Turn off the power, and close both gate valves. Remove the union and feel around for the noise maker. When you loosen a union on a pump while it's running, you create an air lock cavitation. The load on the motor goes to almost zero, and no sound from obstructions.
  9. The tubing goes to the floor drain suction fittings for the vacuum brake. If you blow into them you will see air coming out of the intake fittings. There is a diaphragm flap that opens up when the floor drains are blocked. This keeps an entrapment from occurring. When the diaphragm deforms, the water will seep up the vent tube, and eventually start a siphoning process. Extend both of the tubes above the waterline, and it should solve the problem.
  10. Pretty sure the GFCI Cord connect is bad. Certainly the cheapest point to start without putting a multi meter on it.
  11. "Portable Spa" refers to the machines that can be delivered, and dropped in a location. As opposed to an "In-ground" spa that may be gunite, and attached to a pool, or have a separate equipment location. Either way, we will need more info. Pics, Diagrams, etc. Jacuzzi is a trade name that has been bought and sold over the years, so any labels on it will be helpful.
  12. That is an LX pump wit a tendency to have the face of the impeller shear off, and grind itself to a horrible sounding death. Count on replacing the "Wet End" This is of course without actually being there. You may have also sucked in a toy, or bypass valve or the like. Either way, the gate valves can be closed with the power off, and you can loosen the front union to see what the deal is.
  13. Unfortunately if you don't know the setting, you may have to sit through all of them. Try to research the spa model, and or the manufacturer. Someone here may know of the setting with more info on what you have.
  14. D12 Controller unplugged is a bad spa side, and or board. Check for damage of the ribbon cable.
  15. That board has an issue with the transformer plug wearing out the traces behind the board. If you find moving the 4 pin plug while "hot" makes it boot...(Clicking noise), then that's the problem. I cannot recommend touching anything in a live controller. so don't do that.
  16. EEK... Yes to the bad board, HOWEVER, I had a similar issue where the touch screen topside was blowing that fuse. The one below it is the same value, and runs peripheral lights and salt systems and the like. Unplug the spa side controller, (Touch Screen) , swap fuses, and re boot. If she holds, then you need a spa side controller. If she blows, the transformer is bad, ....Board...and you need 2 fuses.
  17. EEK... Yes to the bad board, HOWEVER, I had a similar issue where the touch screen topside was blowing that fuse. The one below it is the same value, and runs peripheral lights and salt systems and the like. Unplug the spa side controller, (Touch Screen) , swap fuses, and re boot. If she holds, then you need a spa side controller. If she blows, the transformer is bad, ....Board...and you need 2 fuses.
  18. Removing a filter with the power on may suck debris into the system, but don't beat yourself up for that. If it did, then removing the intake union and checking for obstruction would verify that as the problem. if you have noticed any floating objects missing ("Scum Ball") or ("Foam Spider") then yes, pump is clogged. Other than that it may be a coincidence that the pump failed. We will need more information, does the motor sound like it is coming on, Does it sound "Strained" if so? Is the FLO error correct with poor jet performance? etc
  19. 75% from the top, 20% from the sides, and 5% from the bottom heat loss. Just don't choke out the pump exhaust, and you will be fine. Water logged covers loose their "R" value, so be aware of that. Other than that, "Batting" insulation is great, and the bugs and other critters love it too. (Shudder..)
  20. But when we role up on one that has, and all of the jets are leaking, ALL of them,...... it's going to be a bad service call. Don't know about you, but I don't have time to re-plumb a spa from the ground up. Hell, no one can tell me what parts I need now.
  21. You will need two GFCI breakers. Each controller needs to be wired up individually That means you will need a 100 amp service panel housing the 2 GFCI breakers. The unit will be heating at an 11 KW. capacity. Pulling roughly 85 amps wide open.
  22. You Have 2 pumps. Jet 1 should be the two speed pump plumbed to the controller. Jet 2 should be the one speed not plumbed to the controller. Verify this first. If this is not the case, then the pumps are wired flip flop in the controller. 1st press: System 1 jet pump runs on low speed 2nd press: System 1 jet pump runs on high speed 3rd press: System 1 & System 2 jet pumps run on high speed 4th press: System 2 jet pump runs on high speed If all of that is good, then the pressure switch is faulty.
  23. I found the part # and description, Still don't know what the stuff is yet. 22212-000-001 SQR LUBRICANT SPRAY BOTTLE 1 QT ALL SQR PRODUCTS 22212-000-005 SQR LUBRICANT PAIL 5 GAL ALL SQR PRODUCTS
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