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abcdefghii

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Everything posted by abcdefghii

  1. Pulled the topside out, it was refusing to come out until I tore the sticker up to discover it was also screwed in place. Found plenty of options with different overlay/buttons, finally found one, of course all the way the other side of the country and the most expensive, but at hopefully, that gets it working. Any input on the sound from the pump?
  2. Yesterday we had a severe storm roll through, after the storm, I noticed the hot tub lights and jets were running. Discovered the control panel unresponsive, shut the breaker off and left it until today. It's a Nordic Spa Retreat MS, with a Balboa pack. After some investigation, I discovered the F4 fuse blown. Replaced it, but it kept blowing. I had read another thread of essentially disconnecting everything, powering up the spa and see if the fuse blew. If not, start plugging things back in and see if the fuse blows. So i installed a new fuse, everything disconnected, powered it on, then off, checked and the fuse was not blown. Plugged in the pump - power on, jets and lights on. Plugged in the ozone - power on, jets and lights on. Plugged in the display - power on, jets and lights on, nothing showing on display, unresponsive to buttons. Plugged in the heater - power on, jets and lights on. So, it appears that everything is working except the top side controls. What concerns me though is that it kept blowing fuses until I disconnected then re-connected everything. I did notice that the pump appears to be making a rattle, which I had not noticed previously https://youtu.be/XGsn7waULXs?t=30 The sound is there right at the beginning, then comes back at about the 35 second mark and then off again. The noise may have always been there, but in the tub with the pump on full, perhaps the noise drowns it out, but it's fairly loud with the panel off. Any idea on the noise? Could it be air somehow got into the system? Bearings? Capacitor? It seems to run fine, just every 30s make that sound. At the least it looks like I need a new control panel, just have to find the correct one. I can find plenty similar, but the buttons are in a different order. Like this https://www.amazon.com/Balboa-BB5323...54233393&psc=1 The buttons in the link are Warm | Cool | Jets | Light On my existing pack, the buttons are Jets | Light | Warm | Cool If that does not matter, since the buttons would be wired to the control beneath the sticker, then it should be all good. But, I don't want to order the wrong one and end up with the buttons not doing what they should be!
  3. Finally got my hot tub up and running, now I need to get the water safe to actually use it. Here is what the test strips I have are showing... I am on well water here, so far I have added a bottle of "Metal Gone" as well, about a table spoon of chlorine and just now dropped in 4 bromine tabs in a floater. At a quick glance, it looks like I could use some pH down since I am closer to the 8 range, assuming that would also bring the Alkalinity down. Cyanuric acid appears low on the scale, total chlorine looks to be fairly high, while Free Chlorine (Bromine) looks low. Finally, total hardness appears to not even register. Given the above, is it likely I will just need the pH down? I checked again this morning and the total chlorine appears to have gone down. Anything particularly to worry about at the moment? With the jets on full, there is some white foam generated, water smells and looks clean though. Thanks.
  4. Shoot, didn't even see that section.... I'll see if I can get it moved.
  5. It's working!!! Installed the new fuse, turned the breakers on and we're in business. Now the fun of water chemistry begins....
  6. Had a neighbor take a look at the GFCI wiring, all good there, so just hopeful that with the fuse replaced I can get this up and running.
  7. I do know for sure the wire coming from the spa is going to the GFCI and the pigtail to the neutral bar, made sure to get that piece right at least!! I will double check it shortly though, just in case I screwed up somewhere, 99% sure it is wired correctly in that spot though. The spa was running in 110V mode when I purchased it used (the guy had it running and showed me everything working before I bought it). I'll take an actual picture of the board shortly, but have one of the schematic I took yesterday (the image upload keeps failing, here is a link to it): https://i.imgur.com/KlznIy1.jpg Assuming that Switchbank A, goes from 1 to 10 (L to R), I moved the jumper in spot 10 down. Once I realized it, I then removed the jumper wire going from White AC to Red AC. The fuse that is blown is to the right of the TB1 block, the one labelled "F4 0.3A 250V" I believe that's the transformer protection fuse, which would make sense for it to blow since I attempted to send 240V while configured for 120V.
  8. Earlier today I went to convert my Nordic Spa Retreat MS from 110V to 220V. It uses a Balboa 300 control panel, looked up instructions, made sure power was off, flipped the dip switch, turned power on, the display came on for a split second, then sent off. Notice, I said I only flipped the dip switch. So, I'd initially forgotten to remove the jumper wire from J11 to J33 (although the instructions on the side said J32, mine was on J33). The instruction I found online seemed to just mention the dip switch, it was when trying to figure out why it came in, then immediately off that I noticed the steps listed by Balboa on the side. Looking at the fuses, it appears that the 300mA is blown. Tested with a meter and no continuity, annoyingly, no where local stocks these. My question while waiting on a new fuse, would my failing to remove that jumper wire have caused it to initially power on for that second, then the fuse to blow and it not power up again? If so, is it likely good to go with simply replacing the fuse? I'm hoping that I didn't damage any other components in that split second it powered on. Second question, using a voltage detector, even with the GFCI off at the spa panel, it's still detecting power at the hot tub itself (on the wiring coming into the tub) Is this telling me the GFCI is no good? If so, I'll replace that along with the fuse. Thanks.
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