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Desa

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Desa last won the day on June 17 2022

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  1. Thanks @RDspaguy, I’ll find a place to take the pump too, hopefully can be fixed. Either way, hottub’s been running just fine without it connected short a few jets so at least we’ve been able to use it.
  2. Amp draw on Pump2 is 12 and the little circ pump should only be 1/2 an amp (230v, 115w). I don’t know how to test actual draw. Worked well for a month after new board/control then started blowing the fuse. Initially thought it was the circ pump, but it only goes on pump2 startup. Fuse is a 326 20A which google tells me is a time delay slow blow…
  3. Hi, I have a 20A fuse that keeps blowing intermittently when Pump 2 activates. Usually 2nd or 3rd time. Been through 5 fuses now trying to troubleshoot. Power on board all tests good. Circ pump runs thru same fuse 24hr. Old Master Spa Twilight. Replaced circuit board and heater element in spring with Balboa VS501. New topside. Wet end on Pump 2 new two years ago. I don’t know how to troubleshoot the pump itself. Question is do I straight replace the pump or is there somewhere to take pump to be inspected/fixed? I’m in Saskatoon, Sk. We’ve got a week of +20 temps so perfect time to drain tub and get this pump fixes before colder weather! Thank you!!!
  4. Well geez, I feel especially dumb! Normally that’s on my list of checks not sure why I didn’t do that this time. Just mad at it I guess lol Thanks @RDspaguy! Good news was fuse replaced and circ pump works! Bad news is breaker tripped—disconnected pump2 and then power works. I can live without pump2 till I drain and refill in the fall. Darn! This was the pump I replaced the wet end on not 4 years ago. Wonder why it went? Thanks again!!
  5. https://www.balboawatergroup.com/BP501 Tech sheets are at bottom of page. Looks like dip switch A6. Or wait for an experienced tech to chime in here. My only experience is with the VS series and to reset the memory is a jumper on two pins.
  6. I would reset the persistent memory, then try to see if that fixes it maybe?
  7. Hi, So after replacing heater, circuit board to VS501Z and new topside control, the fam was happily enjoying the hottub again for one month. Went out to clean filters today (cleaned weekly, max 10 days if life gets crazy. One was dirty, but wasn’t shockingly so by any means) and noticed HH code. Reset, cleaned filters, noticed water looking a little grubby, and then noticed no circ pump sound and now get code “dr”. Which is the no flow/dry heater code google tells me which makes sense. I turned off breaker and waited a few minutes. Turned back on and tub goes thru sequence except still no circ pump and no pump 2. I can hear relays click on board but nothing… I just replaced this very pricey little circ pump, laing e14 March 2021. Any ideas how to test? Last year it tripped the breaker so I knew it was done, but this time nothing, just the dr code. I replaced the wet end on pump 2 when I took possession of this pump 4 years ago, how to test that motor? Any ideas on a better circ pump if I do have to replace? Thanks in advance! I did a search in forums, and seems the laing e14 is a common problem. Thanks all!
  8. Thanks again @CanadianSpaTech! I like the rockwool idea so I can still get to the maifolds if needed. I installed little valves into them so when I drained I could make sure they were totally dry (lowest spot too) So I like to keep an eye on them.
  9. Hi! I came by my Master Spa hottub with the house we moved into 2018. We moved in the winter and the hot tub had been drained and moved. That spring, I positioned the hot tub where I wanted it (funny story—got a bunch of pvc pipe on 2x6s and rolled it, husband didn’t believe it would work, but it did and he finally came and helped me roll it across the backyard to its slab!) Hooked it up and filled and everything worked—but leaked of course from the freeze damage. I had to dig out ALOT of insulation to replace two manifolds and quite a bit of piping. Since then, once we hit November I’ve been draining and winterizing it as with no insulation no way could it maintain heat in our -50C high wind Sask winters. And I am terrified of the heater going and loosing the whole thing. (happened to our neighbours—that was one giant ice block) Also, no way would I tredge through snow to use it! I just finished replacing the circuit board, new heater, (thanks to @CanadianSpaTech!!!) and soon as I have a new topside should be good to go. Is there anyway/how to re-insulate so I could run it all winter? Even at lower temps for the 2-3 months I wouldn’t use it?
  10. Ya, when I called this afternoon, they were…. less then helpful. Should have asked here first! Actually just tried to comvince me to trade in on a brand new hot tub *smh* Ah well, I’ve learned tons. Thanks so much for the help and links!!
  11. powered up and circ pump running but nothing on topside. Pumps both went on at 5 min mark so guessing good startup sequence. Pump 2 stopped after a few seconds, pump 1 still running low speed. Darn, was hoping to avoid new topside, but I guess that’s next step?
  12. @CanadianSpaTech Thank you!!! Ok, so really different! I set the switches as you indicated but noticed two more differences. I currently have W3-BlackAC J62, but in your doc it is W3-J46?? Also, My heater is a 4kw 240v is there any board changes required for that? Really appreciate this!!!
  13. Thanks! tried it, disconnected topside, power, two quick clicks, waited exactly 5.5 minutes and the main pumps both kicked in. Everything shut off after one minute. Does this confirm I need new topside? Also, it was the service person at my local hottub store that called her Balboa rep to confirm the board I needed. I questioned the VS501Z vs SZ at the time but they just said that’s what they’re rep told them to order to replace my board. So it could’ve been a salesperson and not a tech, I have no idea.
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