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Euphanasia's Achievements


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  1. Yes, I am testing the water using 7-way test strips and strips that test the salinity. Everything is where it should be with the exception of the cyanuric acid, which I have ordered and will be adding when it arrives. I do have an ozonator that runs constantly. That could be the problem. Does an ozonator deplete chlorine? There is no "gunk" coming up from the jets. When they are turned on, there is a cloudiness to the water and the smell--which I now understand to be chloramines. But the point is that the water in the tubing for the jets is producing a smell when the jets are turned on, and I would rather have that happen before I get in the tub than while I'm in it. I'm going to do a full decontamination, since it looks like I may have a biofilm issue.
  2. I have a Tiger River Bengal. We've fitted it with a saltwater system (Saltron Mini) and we're getting the chlorine levels we want while the system is operating. Afterward, the chlorine recombines with the sodium and we get to soak in water that doesn't smell of chlorine. The problem we're having is that during the day, after the chlorination cell has finished its cycle, the chlorine seems to "sink." There's less chlorine in the tub water, but when the jets are activated, we get a rush of chlorine and cloudiness in the water. We figure one solution would be to have a timer on the jets that comes on briefly about an hour before our normal soaking time in the evenings, to get the water moving through the filter and out of the pipes. Does anyone know of such a system?
  3. There are manuals available for all years that explain it. If yours has the IQ-2000 controller, this manual will work: https://www.thespaworks.com/sites/default/files/solana_owners-manual_00.pdf There are also schematics inside of the cover for the control unit. It's basically a matter of moving one jumper on the right side of the board, removing two jumpers where the current power cord is connected, and connecting two circuits from a sub-panel. Do you have 220 service to a subpanel near the tub? If so, you'll need a 20amp 110 GFCI breaker and a 30 amp 230 GFCI breaker, and a liquid-tight whip with four leads and ground. For me, the most expensive thing was running 75 feet of 6 AWG romex, which cost almost $500 just for the wire. The breakers are around $90 apiece and the sub panel is less than $50. The whip was somewhere around $100. I never ran it on 110, but I can feel when the heat is on at the same time as the jets pretty much any time we get in, so I know we would have been disappointed if we had tried to operate it on 110.
  4. We have a tiger River Bengal from 1999 that we just got running again after a prolonged storage in a previous owner's driveway. It seems to be a high quality tub. Maybe we were just lucky, but so far aside from a few leaks in the flexible plastic tubing, and some broken plastic fittings, everything has been working great. One thing that people don't like about the Bengal model is that it was a plug and play tub. That means that it runs on 110 electricity, and has circuitry that keeps the heater from working when the jets are on. We changed ours over to 220 volt and had a dedicated circuit installed. Unfortunately, there's no way to test it if it does not have water in it.
  5. Brand new here, and I'm hoping to get some advice. I have a Tiger River Bengal that I bought used. It was sitting for many years, and it has two missing directional jets that I'll be replacing now that I know that it runs. After careful cleaning and conversion to 220V, I ran it and everything works very well. However, I found this white plug in the bottom and I have no idea what it is or where it goes. Any ideas?
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