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Couch67 last won the day on June 11

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    Eastern Ontario, Canada

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  1. If both the main breaker and the gfci is tripping randomly, there is definitely an intermittent short or loose connection somewhere as the previous posters recommended to check. The breakers are safety devices to prevent an over-current situation that could cause an electrical fire, and in the case of the GFCI, prevent electrocution. I believe it is potentially dangerous to use the tub while it is in this state. Not sure about the high limit error, could be related or a completely different issue. I would first resolve the breaker trips and troubleshoot the limit error after that.
  2. If the chlorine is continually dropping, its likely that you have a biofilm buildup in the plumbing, and require a decontamination. Your other thread about the milky water is another sign. The decontamination sticky in this forum is a great how-to on how to resolve this. One other suggestion - its highly recommended to get yourself a Taylor test kit (K-2006 for chlorine), these are much more accurate than relying on test strips for balancing water. Strips are good for a quick test to see if you are in the ballpark.
  3. If your water chemisty is in balance it's most likely oils / makeup like you said. Get yourself a zorbie or scumbug to float in the tub, these things work great.
  4. The previous suggestions should help find the issue but note intermittent faults can be tricky to diagnose. I would not be using the tub until you get this resolved.
  5. I've been hosing out the filters like Cusser mentioned, and every 3 months or so have used vinegar diluted 50% in a pail just large enough to fit the filter in it, and let it soak overnight. I have a spare filter, so I swap them out when its ready to clean. To be honest I'm not sure if this does anything, except waste a lot of vinegar lol.
  6. Hi, I have a Dynasty Spa with a Gecko control / spa pack, and my pump indeed turns on when I turn the spa light on. I think the newer Bullfrogs use Gecko controls too?
  7. Wow what a mess! I have good luck with Digikey, their shipping is great, order as late as 9pm the night before and you have it the next day, most times before noon. They do have a standard $8 delivery fee, free over $100. If you go through a lot of batteries (ie kids with toys), thier Panasonic bulk packs are good deals, and help ease the cost of the delivery if you are just buying a few things. https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/filter/terminal-blocks-wire-to-board/371 If you can measure the pitch or pin spacing on the connector, you should be able to match it up. Looks like two separate connectors there, butted together.
  8. Welcome to the 51 club! Almost halfway there lol. Hope you had a good one.
  9. Hi, its hard to tell from the first pic but is it leaking due to a crack in the (white) pvc? The hose clamp looks pretty rusted out, so could it be that it failed and is allowing water to leak past the red hose? You need to carefully peel out the insulation to get a good idea where the leak is first. If its a crack in the pvc pipe, you might get away with a temporary fix with a plastic epoxy (not really recommended but who knows depending on the source of the leak it might hold). But the right thing to do is cut out and replace - meaning you would have to replace all fittings to the point where you have space to connect to pipe- all of those butt connected PVC fittings would all need to be replaced. And you might need to extend some of those smaller hoses if they are not long enough once you cut them off. It might be doable as a diy job but that's a really tight space! Its tucked in that corner and has a lot of connections, all which will be fairly brittle and wont like to be moved around much. I don't have any idea what a pro cost would be, but a rough guess if you had to do it yourself it could to be < $100 if you just need a handful of fittings, a tool to cut the flex hose, and pipe glue, but could go south if there are leaks after that from the new plumbing or from other nearby fittings during the repair. Hope this helps.
  10. Hi there, I would get a copy of the schematic, and then locate your circulation and jet pump connections at the board that go out to the pumps. Unplug the circ pump connector. Ensure the spa thinks the circulation pump is running, then check for voltage at the pins for the circ pump (at the circuit board plug in). You should see 120 or 240 volts depending on the spec of the motor. If there's voltage present, its likely a bad pump or the wiring to the pump. If you dont see voltage, it could be a bad relay on the control board, an onboard fuse, or bad traces on the board. Repeat this for the jet pump if its not working. Note that if its not working, the tub controller will likely detect this when heating, and throw a low flow error. So I'm not sure if this test will work for you in this case, but worth a try. Hoping some of the folks who have this type of spa or who work on them sees your post and is able to help more.
  11. Hi there, Your photo did not show up in your post (for me at least). I think most folks here would recommend investing in a test kit like the Taylor K-2006 for Bromine spas. I followed that advice a few months back and it has made a world of difference when measuring and balancing the water. Strips are ok for a quick check but aren't accurate enough when trying to balance. I would get the hardness in spec first, using a calcium hardness increaser. It may be low due to the metal gone, but I'm not 100% sure about that. Typically you are going to lower the Alkalinity, which in turn will lower the PH. There's a really good guide in a sticky in this forum on how to lower total alkalinity. As for the low bromine level - you do need to build up a bromine reserve in the water. Again, there are a few really good stickies on this. Keep in mind if you find you are adding bromine and not seeing it register, you may have a bio-buildup in the spa plumbing that is 'eating' the sanitizer. The 'Decontamination' sticky covers how to handle that situation.
  12. I'd probably fill it the day before you expect the electrician. If this is your first spa, have a look at the hot tub chemistry subforum, there are some great stickies for first time filling and balancing water .
  13. could be, but its more likely a stuck relay in the spa pack and not the topside. You could try to unplug the topside from the spa pack and power cycle the spa to see if the blower turns off. What kind of spa pack do you have?
  14. Update: Finally ordered the plumbing parts and got into it this weekend. It was good timing too - the epoxy 'fix' had started to fail and the tub had lost about 1" of water in the last week. When dry fitting the new parts together, I noticed they were longer than the ones in the tub - for example, one of the Tee's was close to 3/4" longer than the original. With the assembly being just fittings and no pipe in the horizontal run, stack-up was going to be a problem - the new assembly was going to be about 2" longer than the original. I decided to not install the new gate valve, but now the assembly was going to be about 1" short. To solve this, I ended up un-screwing the pump and moving it to the left in the photo. This did the trick. Let everything set up overnight, then added water this morning, fingers crossed, flip the breaker, no leaks! Thanks @CanadianSpaTech for your suggestions!
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