Jarredb9

Final update: I ended up just moving the black wire connection to the screw and left the neutral wire where it was because I didn’t want to mess with something that seemed fine. Filled up the tub and it has been successfully keeping temperature for the past 24 hours! Thank you both for all the help, very happy to get this fixed at no cost

So I tried using the screws. Before turning on the hot tub I tested the resistance at the board and got about 11ohms which seemed good. I turned on the empty hot tub briefly and didn’t see any voltage going across. I don’t know if that is because the hot tub doesn’t give power to the heater when it is empty or not. It is way to cold for me to try filling it up and see if the heater works. Think it might be time for a new board?

Thanks for all the help! I looked at the back of the circuit board and it doesn’t seem like there isn’t anything wrong with the relay. Looks like the issue was right at the black connection. I am kind of curious what could have caused that. I plan on moving the connections on J33 and J34. Hoping that will fix the issue.

I did have a spa repair professional come out earlier who emptied the tub and put antifreeze in the lines since it has gotten to freezing in my area, but they did not notice the wire and just told me to order a new heater. I noticed the line after they left. Tomorrow I am going to use your advice to check if using the 2 screws is possible. To confirm the relay you are talking about is k8 on the attached wiring diagram correct?

Thanks for the response! So you think I should still get a new heater assembly before trying to solder the connector back on? I live in the US and could probably find someone to repair it but I feel comfortable enough with soldering to make an attempt myself.

Hey all. Had a problem where my hot tub was losing temperature. It is a 2005 J-325 240V Jacuzzi. First we thought it was the heating element, but after looking at the circuit board looks like the hot connector for the heating element broke off somehow. I attached some photos below. Two questions. 1. Is it ok to move the power connectors from the J9 and J10 spot to J33 and J34? The circuit diagram in the manual doesn’t even seem to register the existence of J33 and J34. 2. If we can’t just move the power is it worth trying to solder the old connector back on or should I just buy a whole new circuit board?