DiyCam

Thanks for taking the time to respond RDspaguy. My test kit is new. I believe I'm testing correctly, fill to 7 with sample to 14 with reagent, mix 30 seconds, drop until dot disappears. Disappears well before reaching 100 for both undiluted and 1:1 samples, between 55 and 60 for the 1:9 sample. I would guess that continued algae growth even as the FC has been decaying from over 25 when I first tested supports the very high CYA reading. A hardness test using Hach 145300 matches the Taylor CH reading. I can simplify my goals: I would like to control algae and not damage anything until I have a chance to refill and start running properly balanced water, and if at all possible I would like to avoid the need to manually scrub away the white deposits around the tile line. Any general startup advice for the new water is also appreciated. Thanks

Hi friends, I have just taken over a 12000 gallon in ground plaster pool with terrible chemistry - here are my measurements via Taylor 2006. It's my first pool and I've been learning and haven't done much except raise the pH so far. I have a cartridge filter and solar heating, it's winter so nobody is using the pool and temp is about 53F. CYA (using 1:9 diluted sample) is 550 CH 1300. TA 150 pH 7.4 (I brought this up from 6.5 or below) FC 13 CC ~0 My fill water has about 100ppm CH I have green algae, and white scale around the tile line. I've already decided to do a complete simultaneous drain and refill using the plastic sheet method. My questions: If I were to deal with the algae before draining, it would require I think a shock level of at least 220ppm FC (40% of 550CYA) - is this correct and is it OK to go this high? What target levels should I aim for during the initial weeks after the refill? Is there a chemistry I can run that will safely reverse the scaling? I'm planning to chlorinate with bleach and manage CYA separately Thanks for any advice