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Pina59

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  1. I'm getting ~10,000 ohms for the two temperature sensors which is consistent with the measured temperature using an external thermometer (https://spacare.com/SensorResistanceValuesForHydroQuipandGecko.aspx) The dry detect is for the flow sensor. The one adjacent is the thermistor and the 2 cabled one is the HL sensor. When you say check the light, presumably you mean SPA light rather than the heater light? The two tapped connections (arguably not very tidy looking!) are just tape around a cube connector for the cables so there is a solid connection there. It's maybe worth pointing out that I'm in europe so on 240V. As an update, the spa has started again this morning and the HL fault has cleared. It's taken a while to get back to this point (circa 2 weeks) which makes me think there's something intermittent somewhere on the board.
  2. ItI've left the spa to cool down properly and still getting a HL fault. The relays go a bit nuts when starting up (lots of clicking) which seems odd. Both the HL (new) sensor and older temperature sensor appear to be giving reliable resistivity readings when tested. I've added some photos of the pack and board.
  3. Thanks, hadn't thought about that. With the CS7500, faults are supposed to clear when the spa pack is restarted. This doesn't seem to be happening so likely a sticking relay?
  4. Just trying to get to the bottom of a recurring HL fault on a Hydroquip CS7500 spa pack. The fault kicks in when there is a power cut or if the tub is restarted when the water is warm. Flushing the tub and refilling seems to resolve the issue which is bizzare. My first port of call was replacing the HL sensor which doesn't seem to have fixed the issue. I've also replaced the topside control which was faulty. My understanding of the system is that the HL sensor is what will initiate the code. Is there any benefit in replacing the temperature probe? Water flow seems good (have tried running without the filter to see if there were issues there), and heater does not feel hot to the touch when the code is getting thrown. My only other thought is that there is a fault with the PCB but I'd like to avoid having to replace this if I can even try and diagnose which relay (I'm suspecting a relay) is faulty.
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