Ellisz

It has only been a day but with the smaller impeller, the tub is up to temp and responds to the jets control. The air valves still don't work but I am thrilled that it is working as it was supposed to when I set it up! Thanks for all the help RDspaguy!

So that Aquaflo impeller should fit the Century Pump bn25v1 with a FMCP 1.0 HP 1.5" Pump Wet End (91040810-000)? This is just replacing the current impeller with that one? Anything thing else in there? Thanks

Agreed. I thought about adding them back in but pretty sure I would have to buy new jets, spa flex and another manifold. I did leave the option to add a manifold when I re-worked it but I would like to be somewhat confident that all else is good. When I got it, I thought the air valves were the only issue. Will have to see what that is like with a smaller impeller. Do the air valves affect flow or is it just adding air in the line for the spa feeling? Assume the latter...

Thanks. I think that is a easy solution to try. I am not sure it worked when I first tried it. Makes me think there is a blockage somewhere. There are 3 less jets working on the tub as the previous owner did not want to run ant more new pvc when he replaced all of the jets. That would support needing a smaller pump I suppose.

So this thing is still confusing me. I drained the tub and pulled the pump. Plugged it in and it ran fine and the wires did not get hot. So it would appear that I have an issue with the inlet plumbing or the outlet plumbing. I pulled the lower drain strainer and did not see anything obvious. The part that I think is odd is the inlet plumbing and how it combines the filter drain and the lower drain. I have attached a pic that hopefully shows what I am talking about. I am attaching the manifold I re-did incase you see something there as well. Thanks

Sure, thing. I redid the manifold using braided tubing to the existing 1/2" spa flex with short sections. I don't have any 90 elbows any more. The previous guy had some how modified the fitting with the hot stick and the temp probes so he did not have to replace it. Not sure how he did it but I removed it and replaced the fitting with the probes - just did not use the hot stick. Can't vouch for the rest of the plumbing. Going to see about capping the lines as I remove the pump to not have to drain and refill again Should be fun. Thanks

So a Waterway 1HP 9.5 Amp pump can be had for $250 shipped. A 3/4 HP pump can be had for $200. The Waterway 3/4 Pump (3410310-15) appears to be labeled as 3/4 & 1 hp. I think it is 10 amp. You think this wouldwork? https://lesliespool.com/308623.html I can tinker with the current one later.

I do see where most 9 amp pumps are only 3/4 HP. Probably not a big deal as this is just something for the kids to use by the pool. Would the lower HP take it longer to heat up? As for my mechanical inclination, that may be up for debate I am not opposed to taking stuff apart. I assume this will be a "free Spa" listing in a few years when my kids stop using it anyway. Thanks for pointing me in directions along the way through this journey!

That seems to be the only direction left. I see I can get a pump(no impeller) just like what is in there now cheaper than buying a full pump. Should this be a consideration? Or do I look for the actual pump that came with the tub? Not sure it is worth $350 to put a new pump in but I am in this far. Any pump recommendations? Also, I had to replace the threaded pump fitting on the outlet and I did not replace the red (hot stick) fitting. Is this an issue with heating?

I checked the wiring coming into the box and based on the wiring diagram, the pump is wired correct on the board. When I pug it in, I can see 120V at the black relay connection and I also see 120V at the plug connection on the outside of the box where the pump plugs into the box. When the pump stops, I see 120V at both of these spots as well. After about 5-10 minutes, I can hear a click, which I appears to be the pump, and 120V is present on the pump connections. One note - there are 3 relays with open spade terminals(that is what they look like). The black wire of the pump goes to one of the open connections - per the diagram. The other two relays are not being used but I get 120v on one of the open terminals on these as well. Here is a pic. Assume the open spade connections are normal. Is there anything else on the board that would cause the pump thermal protection to kick on? Or is this really pointing to a bad pump? The pump ran before so I am assuming the wiring on the pump itself is correct but I can check that too.

I wish I could say yes. I pulled the pump and looked at the wiring and the connections looked clean. Are there multiple ways to wire it? It did run previously as it heated the tub up twice - once when I tested it and after I moved it into place. Not sure what would have happened to change it. To that end though, I know it ran to heat up but we never did anything else other than turn the jets on and off a few times. The previous owner said the jets would stop when he turned on the "bubbles". Which based on what you told me before, I don't see how the air controls would have an impact on the pump. Should the hoses connected to the air valves have water in them? I did notice this while changing out the manifold.

Pump is pretty quiet. It sounds like it is on a lower speed. Could be considered a hum, I suppose. The pump motor itself starts to get warm but the wires coming out of the board are a lot hotter than the pump. Should I test for voltage at the pump connection on the board? I guess at this point, I need to know what to replace or fix next. I did not plan to go this far but I am here now. I am not opposed to replacing the pump or the board just not sure what makes logical sense at this point. Is there anything logical at this point?

I am back with some new results - I hope. I decided to replace the manifold. I removed all of the 90's and used braided vinyl hose to connect the manifold and 1/2" flex spa. I filled the spa and plugged in. Pump kicked on for about 30 seconds and then went off. The panel is still lit, temp is adjustable and light button works. Jet button is lit but will not turn off. After unplugging and letting it sit for awhile, I plugged it back in. I was checking the pump wires out of the board box and they were getting really hot as the pump was running. afterwards, I loosened the fitting on the pump intake to make sure I had water and all looked good. Any suggestions on next step? Can I make the leap and say it is the something on board? Not sure how to go about testing relays, etc.

I don't have a good answer but I am working on a similar spa and do remember when I was testing that I would hit the jet button and the light would come on but the jets would not come on. Mine was intermittent as sometime the jets would work for a minute and then shut down. I was under the impression that the pump was overheating but I had some plumbing issues as well. I am hoping to redo the plumbing and try everything again as soon I get the parts. I will be interested in a fix if you get one.

I have never done any spa plumbing but when I saw that manifold, I did have some thoughts of running. I was there with a trailer and it was free, so I gambled. The pump looks brand new to me, if that is worth anything. I could try to replace the manifold correctly and see where that goes. Either way a drain and some weekend work is needed. No hot tub for the kids anytime soon. I always say my wife's ideas are usually cause work for me. If anything, maybe that picture of the plumbing made you chuckle. Appreciate the info and you told me a lot about spa plumbing I did not know.