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Dan Mo

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  1. I am a Caldera Martinique spa and the pressure switch went bad. I have tried ordering a new one from multiple sites that have them listed, but after I order, they let me know they are out of stock and they do not have a date when they will be back in stock. Anyone have success in ordering them? Are they not being produced anymore? I am specifically looking for a Watkins Pressure Switch 73995 w/Wire Harness. Unfortunately the larger pressure switches available do not fit. Thanks for the insight! Dan
  2. I was researching pressure switches to replace the one that is likely bad... The web is showing I need a 72717 pressure switch (https://www.hottubspasupplies.com/72717-pressure-switch.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsLHq0-6l9AIVkovICh2edwjZEAQYASABEgIGfPD_BwE), however, the switch in my spa looks very different (see attached). Will the one in the link work? Am I looking at the wrong thing? Thanks again! Dan
  3. The pressure switch was reading 25 ohms... It started to heat when bypassed. The thermistor showed 14 ohms. I am guessing that is confirmatory that the pressure switch is bad? Thanks again for all the help! Dan
  4. It was showing 2 ohms when I unplugged with the circ pump running. What is interesting is that when I plugged the lim therm back in, the temp light stopped flashing and the heat light turned on (red). Sadly, it is still not heating. Appreciate your feedback! Dan
  5. The heater on LED is not lit. I removed the filters and no change. Sorry to be a dummy, but how do I bypass the pressure switch? It does not appear to be the high limit... That is four flashing lines on this model which I am not seeing. Thanks again! Dan
  6. It was bouncing between 0-18 ohms. To make sure I did it correctly, I used the multimeter on the H1 and H2 wires attaching to the board on the right... Do I do that correctly? Aside from the ground, those were the only wires going to the heater. Thanks! Dan
  7. Hello everyone, I am having an issue where my Caldera Martinique spa is not heating and the temp light is flashing. There are no other diagnostic lights on the screen or in the circuit board. The temp is fluctuating between 68*F to 81*F depending on the weather. I can see good circulation and can hear the circ pump moving water (replaced it last May thanks to this forum). The ozone generator light is illuminated as normal. The metal plumbing coming out of the heater that is usually hot is cold. I checked the filter and it is clean. All pumps seem to be operating normally. Did my heater go bad? It was replaced about 18 months ago by the previous home owner (don't know more on what the issue was). Any thoughts on how diagnose the issue and how to fix it? Thanks again for advice you provide DYI owners like me! Dan
  8. I’m up and running! It was not an air lock. The fuse where the hot wire of the circ pump was blown. Put in a replacement and I’m good to go. Thanks to all of you for your help. I learned a lot! Dan
  9. Did both and I didn't get the dashed lines as quickly... It doesn't seem like there is any flow and the temp light is flashing and after about 5 minutes I get the dashed lines again (was giving dashed lines after about 20 secs). Improvement but not there yet. Dan
  10. As an update... Just installed a new circ pump. When I removed the old circ pump and disassembled it, a seal must have gone bad because all the electronics were waterlogged. With the new circ pump, it no longer pops the breaker! I am getting 4 dashed lines flashing. I read this is likely an air bubble locking up the system. I have tried disconnecting the tube from the circ pump to get the air out, but still having the same issue. When I put my hand in front of the jet, I can feel water pushing out in bursts with the occasional sucking in before the dashed lines appear again. Pump 1 and 2 are working fine. Is this an air bubble and is there a better way to get it out than letting water out by the circ pump? Appreciate everything. I'm getting closer! Dan
  11. I disconnected the heater and connected only the circ pump. The breaker still popped. Not sure why the tub seemed like it was heating without the circ. It went from 79 to 82 in 20 minutes with both pump1 and 2 on.
  12. Connected everything but the circ pump. Pump 1 and pump 2 ran and the tub heated. Ran for 20 minutes and no issues. As soon as I connect the circ pump, it pops. Confirmatory the issue is the circ pump? If so, I will purchase, install and report back. Regards, Dan
  13. To make sure I am on the same page... When I disconnect the circ (red X) and leave pump 1 and 2 and ozone connected (green circles), the circuit pops after 5 seconds or so. It is an indication of a bad circ and not heater. Am I putting this all together correctly? Thanks again everyone! Dan
  14. Correct, I did each test independently. I attached the photos again which seem to be working now. Thanks for the heads up. Dan
  15. Hello, I have a 2010 Caldera Paradise hot tub that came with a house we purchased a year ago. It was working fine until it started popping the circuit breaker (240 V, 30amp switch) about a week ago. The breaker pops after about 5 seconds after being turned on. I disconnected everything from the board and isolated the issue to the circuit pump, a Laing E5-NCHNNNN3W. Before purchasing a new circulation pump, I want to make sure I am on the right path. I have seen other postings about a bad heater and a bad circuit breaker. Does this sound like the circuit pump and is there any other troubleshooting I should perform? Appreciate everyone out there helping DYI people like me! Dan
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