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cranbiz

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Everything posted by cranbiz

  1. You should have 120v across the red and white pair the black and white pare and 240v across the red and black wires.
  2. Sounds like a bad relay in the control board. The pump is probably fine. Post up pictures of the control board, the wiring diagram of the spa, which is usually on the back side of the cover and the pump wiring diagram on the pump.
  3. Post up a picture of the wiring diagram which is usually found on the inside of the cover.
  4. Bad circulation pump. Not an uncommon occurrence.
  5. To me, everything revolves around the circulation pump working correctly. Yours certainly appears bad. Circulation pumps go bad way more frequently than any other pump.
  6. Do you get good flow out of it? It's very common for the circulation pump impeller to go bad.
  7. $6000 for a trailer just to move a hot tub doesn't sound very budget friendly to me. Now, if one has other uses for a trailer like that, sure. Will you need the trailer on the farm as well as using it to move a tub? If so, then yes, an equipment trailer will work. You may need to add cribbing as many large tubs are wider than many car trailer decks.
  8. Hot Springs doesn't release those to anyone except authorized dealers. Post up your problem with pictures of the plumbing, control box, wiring diagram and equipment area. The more info you can give us, the better the results normally are.
  9. Those caps look good (well, the left 3 do, hard to tell if the right one is domed from this angle). A bad one will have a domed top and possibly electrolyte leaking from it. If the right one is domed, then it's bad and can be causing issues.
  10. This one is close enough. it's a 4HP 2 speed pump. Your current pump is a 4.5hp +- 1/2HP https://www.amazon.com/2-Speed-Waterway-Discharge-Executive-3721621-13/dp/B00KYPVF50
  11. Sounds like it's air bound. You sure you bled all the air out of the lines?
  12. I used a couple of big electrical reducing washers. If I remember right I needed an 1 1/4 to 1" and then a 1" to 3/4". You could also buy a zinc 3/4" flange, attach it to the tub side and thread the liquidtite elbow into it
  13. Flow switch shouldn't matter. It's an off-on switch. Polarity doesn't exits on those.
  14. Is the tub keeping the set temperature? If so, you are good. The pump is cycling as it's supposed to. Most owners manuals are crap and really don't explain the full operation of the tub.
  15. Depending on how it's plumbed, it may only turn on to get the tub back to the set temperature. When you did a drain and refill, the tub was coming back up to temp so the circulation pump would run. Once up to temp, it will only run when the tub drops below the minimum temp range to bring the tub back up to temp.
  16. Check the heater element. With an ohm meter, check the resistance of the heater. It should be between 12-18 ohms. You can also check that the heater is getting voltage when the tub is calling for heat. There should be 220V across the 2 heater terminals. (assuming you have a 220V tub)
  17. The blue disc is a MOV, or also known as a surge protector. Looks like a lightning strike near by.
  18. Yes, the yellow stuff is just glue/potting compound. There is a good chance that the power supply board is bad though. It's a common problem.
  19. I was going to respond in the PM you sent and forgot. (typical for my to......... look, a squirrel) I love the idea and the product. I can't believe it took until now for someone to come up with the idea. It will be a great tool in areas that get into freezing.
  20. Why did you resurrect a 11 year old thread? If you are having a problem, please start your own thread. In it, Please fully describe your problem and include pictures of your spa's control board with the dip switches (if present) the wiring diagram which is usually found on the inside of the cover of the control box and of your equipment area. Doing all this will ensure the people here will see it and assist.
  21. Normal PCV gluing techniques are used. You can test the heater by doing a resistance check. Your heating element should read between 12-16 ohms
  22. Bad advice. The bottom of the tub needs to be fully supported when full of water. Shims will not fully support the tub with the weight of water in it. Using the methods that @CanadianSpaTech described will allow one to level the tub and keep the bottom sully supported.
  23. Any 220V 1/4hp motor will work. You might need to adapt the inlet or outlet for your plumbing. If necessary, use a 1/2 hp pump.
  24. Post up the wiring diagram and a picture of the terminal strip where the incoming power is connected.
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